Hot Wheels and Matchbox Customizing Thread

  • Thread starter CodeRedR51
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Respond to the PM already, guy.

Anyway, I'm looking for wheels similar to the Delorean's, because I'm trying to complete my BTTF makeover on it, and I obviuosly want wheels that are more alike the real thing than 10SP wheels.

1981-1982-delorean-dmc12.jpg


Contact me if you have anything similar and are willing to trade or give up.
 
Oddly, that's one of the wheel models we do not have complete. We have a set of the "turbine" wheels that came in original 80s Real Rider cars and which would be the closest to the DeLorean's wheels, but they are tire-less. We've saved them (we found them like that in a made in Mexico car at a flea market) with hopes of reproducing them. If you are willing to wait on us to do it, I'm sure we could complete a set of them, tires included, but it'll be some time.
 
If we're talking like 2 months or longer, then I'd rather just grab something of lesser similarity... probably off an AMC Rebel Boulevard or something. It only needs to look like a spokeless metal disc for me to be content. I should probably scuff this body up with a wire brush or something because I want to make it look really beat up... :D
 
AOS-
If we're talking like 2 months or longer, then I'd rather just grab something of lesser similarity... probably off an AMC Rebel Boulevard or something. It only needs to look like a spokeless metal disc for me to be content. I should probably scuff this body up with a wire brush or something because I want to make it look really beat up... :D
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No, if you're gonna grab something, get a Dan Wheldon car, the wheels off that thing should work perfectly. If you do get a Boulevard AMC Rebel for the wheels, I'm right now claiming the donor body hahaha

Also, yes you can scruff the zamac with a toothbrush to give it a brushed steel look, my friend pulled that one when the stock DeLorean came out and it looked legit. I'll tell him to give me some pictures of that just so you can see.
 
McZachenF1138
Well, this is what I did tonight. Thank goodness the white is so bright that you can't see its numerous imperfections too well.

I decided the ten spokes looked better than the MC5s with black spokes that I also tried.

But then I decided to stupidly paint every other spoke flat black so the wheels would look more like the stock 458 wheels.
I guess I should have kept the OH5SPs that came on it then. :lol:

A bit better shot so you can see the detail.

Now for interior shots. :)

Luckily I had a little jar of flat tan or I wouldn't have been able to paint the interior.

Le engine.

And the dash. I think I put more detail into these cars than what is even possible sometimes.
I try to make it work and then it ends up looking like this garbage.
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Nice custom, even though it's kinda strange seeing a two tone 458, but you pulled it off nicely :)👍. Love those OH10 wheels.
 
AOS-
White roof is tacky and unfitting for a Ferrari but the engine detailing is nice! And :lol: at the new "OH10" wheels; looks just like aftermakrter wheels now. I'm glad you shared this mistake so I won't make it now.
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Cano
As tacky as it is (it is), he's onto something:

Yes that's factory issued.
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VspecZR1GT2RS89
Nice custom, even though it's kinda strange seeing a two tone 458, but you pulled it off nicely :)👍. Love those OH10 wheels.
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Thank you guys. I was aware that Ferrari offered a two tone option on their 458s and I had this one laying around just dying to be ripped apart.
And white was the only color I saw fit to paint the roof.
 
How To: Drilling HotWheels Rivets
for 2-56 Screws​

This how-to will show you the correct method for drilling HotWheels rivets for disassembly, and future use of 2-56 screws that will be used to hold the car together once customizing has been finished. This takes the standard method of simply drilling the rivets just one step further.

Tools Needed:
  • Electric Drill w/variable speed
  • 3/16" Drill Bit for metal
  • 1/16" or #50 Drill Bit for metal

Step 1: Selecting the proper bits
  • To prepare the existing rivets for the use of 2-56 screws, a 1/16" or #50 drill bit is required. These can be found at local stores like Wal-Mart, or online at places like MicroMark.
  • And to finish off the top of the rivet and to release the chassis from the body, a 3/16" bit is required. Make sure that the bit is meant to be used for metal. A Black & Decker metal bit is used in this tutorial and works great. These can be found at local stores like Wal-Mart.
DSCN5154.jpg


Step 2: Prepare car for drilling
  • If you plan on re-painting the car, any surface should work for drilling. If you would rather keep the original paint on the car, a soft surface like an old T-Shirt or rag will prevent the car from being scratched.
  • Important: Make sure to wear safety glasses and keep hands clear of the general area around where you will be drilling!
DSCN5155.jpg


Step 3: Drilling for 2-56 screws
  • One of the better methods for re-assembling a custom is to use 2-56 screws with #2 washers. This gives you the convenience of being able to take apart the car in the future to make changes, etc. This hole also works great as a pilot hole to keep the 3/16" bit centered when drilling off the rivet head.
  • Insert the 1/16" or #50 bit into the center of the first rivet and using the variable speed on the drill, slowly drill down the center of the rivet.
  • Important: Make sure not to drill too far. Some cars use very shallow rivets and you could inadvertently drill all the way through!
  • Once the first rivet has been drilled, turn the car around and do the same with the other end.
DSCN5157.jpg


Step 4: Drilling for disassembly
  • With the drilling for 2-56 screws finished, now it's time to drill off the existing rivet heads so that the chassis can be separated from the body.
  • Center the 3/16" bit onto the rivet and make sure that you are level with the top.
  • Slowly drill off the rivet head being careful to keep it level.
  • Depending on the type of bit, it won't take much effort to get the result you need. The Black & Decker bit used for this tutorial only needs a few short bursts to remove the rivet head.
DSCN5158.jpg


DSCN5160.jpg


Step 5: Finished!
  • You can now separate the chassis from the body.
  • If drilled properly, some plastic chassis cars will snap back into place if you need to hold them together for any reason during the customizing phase.

DSCN5161.jpg
 
I want to see your interior in detail. I still have to do mine but it's been sidelined for such a long time I don't even remember if I wanted to do something to it or if it was gonna stay that way. Please post pics of the inside.
 
How long does it take for the drilling to be complete? By that I mean, how fast can you get the rivets off? I've tried a titanium bit one time and it just wasn't eating at the rivet all that much. Maybe my drill bit was dull, who knows, but it did say it was for metal.
 
Cano
I want to see your interior in detail. I still have to do mine but it's been sidelined for such a long time I don't even remember if I wanted to do something to it or if it was gonna stay that way. Please post pics of the inside.
Click to expand...

The photo I posted is as close as it's going to get. I think something in my camera is broken with the auto focus because any closer and it just won't focus at all.

AOS-
How long does it take for the drilling to be complete? By that I mean, how fast can you get the rivets off? I've tried a titanium bit one time and it just wasn't eating at the rivet all that much. Maybe my drill bit was dull, who knows, but it did say it was for metal.
Click to expand...

As stated in the tutorial, I'm using the Black & Decker bits from Wal-Mart that are suited for Wood & Metal. They work amazing. Only takes a few short bursts with the large bit to clear the rivet away. I could drill a car in a couple minutes or less.

Edit: Oh, and getting the windows out of that Challenger was a pain in the 🤬.
 
R1600Turbo
The photo I posted is as close as it's going to get. I think something in my camera is broken with the auto focus because any closer and it just won't focus at all.
Click to expand...

Ah, that'll be okay I guess, as long as they're clear and focused.
 
Not much done to it. Painted it flat gray, then painted the steering wheel & seat flat black, then painted the ignition boxes on the dashboard blue. Pretty simple.

The grill at the front is actually part of the window piece, I cut it off and am looking for an alternative to put in there. I'd like to keep the space open.

Edit: Look what someone on HWC did to the Minion Pig: :lol:

angrypumpkin-1.jpg
 
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R1600Turbo
The grill at the front is actually part of the window piece, I cut it off and am looking for an alternative to put in there. I'd like to keep the space open.
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paint guy trick: Find some stapples that are the size of the front opening, put several of them together, put two of them vertically in each side and cut to fit, and voilá, intercooler/radiator at the ready.
 
Cool wheels Cano, they're coming along nicely. What i'm interested to know is though... Is it possible to make 2 different kinds of Wat/minilte style wheels but 1 set with deeper rim/offset?

@ McZachen & R1600. Cool enginebay/interior details.
 
At 1ness
Cool wheels Cano, they're coming along nicely. What i'm interested to know is though... Is it possible to make 2 different kinds of Wat/minilte style wheels but 1 set with deeper rim/offset?
Click to expand...

It should be possible but you need first to nail both the stock Wat and the other wheel with less offset, then do a repro of both, then do a hybrid between both of them, you file away the Wat until all you have is the center, and file away the center of the other wheel until all you've got is the lip, combine the two and then do the mold for that one. A lot of work but it creates practically limitless combinations.
 
Cano
It should be possible but you need first to nail both the stock Wat and the other wheel with less offset, then do a repro of both, then do a hybrid between both of them, you file away the Wat until all you have is the center, and file away the center of the other wheel until all you've got is the lip, combine the two and then do the mold for that one. A lot of work but it creates practically limitless combinations.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's a lot of work, but would be very cool if it could be achieved.
 
So....I need ideas for a wheel to use on the Ford Falcon Racecar I am working on. Needs to resemble the actual wheel they use in V8 Supercars. Any ideas?
 
R1600Turbo
So....I need ideas for a wheel to use on the Ford Falcon Racecar I am working on. Needs to resemble the actual wheel they use in V8 Supercars. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

I'd say the turbine wheels of you can find a set of them. If not, 10SPs would probably be your best bet.
 
It comes with 10 spokes from Mattel. Looking for something with a bit less wheel, and a bit more tire.

This is the wheel they use:

Nissan-Altima-V8-Supercar.jpg


Edit: sneaky peek:

IMG_20121103_201820.jpg
 
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R1600. That SE exhaust and drive shaft look superb. 👍 What's going on with the cut-away chassis (wheel area)?... you planning on adding IRS with sway bars and lower control arms? :lol:, or you going for a lift? :lol:

@ Cano. Deeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep dish laces FTW. :drool:
 
At 1ness
R1600. That SE exhaust and drive shaft look superb. 👍 What's going on with the cut-away chassis (wheel area)?... you planning on adding IRS with sway bars and lower control arms? :lol:, or you going for a lift? :lol:
Click to expand...

Thats the mod I had to do to get the wheels to fit properly. Behind the wheel where the axle comes out, there's a half dome piece of plastic that is pretty large. If I let it rest against the chassis as-is, the wheels would stick out too far from the fenders. So to squeeze them in to make it flush, I had to narrow the chassis a bit in that area.

Just glued the tips and the driveshaft in place. Will post new photo shortly. Have to do it from my phone.

Edit:

IMG_20121103_211405.jpg
 
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