Hot Wheels and Matchbox Customizing Thread

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For primer, I use this: (They have white too)

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http://www.walmart.com/ip/Krylon-Indoor-Outdoor-Primer-Gray/17253581
 
Great. I'll try that out.

Did I tell you guys when I was painting one of my Vipers, one of the Fusion can nozzles got jammed and it wouldn't stop spraying? That wasn't fun.
:lol:
 
Tip: When done spraying, turn the can upside down and spray until no more paint comes out. (just a couple seconds) This will clear the nozzle. ;)
 
Looks pretty good R1600, better than the other one. Any solutions to the text?

@ AOS. If you plan on using 2 part epoxy putty for any future modifications, ignore the advice i gave you first time round, as iv'e been having problems with the 240Z... Decided i'd add a bit more putty to the lights, aswell as start on the rear arches etc, anyway, i left it for a couple of hours then started filing/sanding away... the putty failed to adhere properly to the metal, and fell off :(
Tried it again after 24hrs and it was fine, filed/sanded beautifully.

@ Cano. can't wait to see those wheels.
 
Gotcha. Haven't got any putty yet though.

Also, do you guys have any tips on painting flexible material? I figured it would happen, but I tried it anyway; I sprayed a red plastic wing black and the paint came right off after I flexed the wing just a tad. Should I sand it down and lay primer on it first?
 
Damn, some nice works in this thread! I've made a few customs too, but they all were poorly made, with acrylic ink and pencils. Details were also made with acrylic ink, but i used toothpick sticks instead of pencils, because they are less soft, so, i could make headlights better with them.

Will try take a picture of some next time i back to my house. Lol
 
@ AOS. Regards flexible material. Make sure you prime the plastic first, and i'm guessing Acrylic paint should do the trick if applied quite thickly, maybe quite a few layers (though not tried it myself), have found when iv'e painted pictures in the past, that if applied thickly, the acrylic paint has a certain rubbery quality... or try adding some PVA glue to the paint (PVA drys clear so hopefully shouldn't affect colour). I imagine enamel wouldn't be flexible but would (i imagine) strengthen the plastic part. I wouldn't use spray paint.

@ DarkAvenger. Cool, look forward to seeing your customs.

@ R1600. Cheers for the advice, i'll try that when i next add some putty.

[EDIT] AOS, another thing i think would work well, is what i use at work for screen printing inks, plasticiser.. it gives the printed ink more elasticity, might be worth a try mixing some with some paint.
 
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Besides, you guys will have to wait a lot. Because i will back to my house only in December i think. Lol. So, take a seat and wait... because it might take a while.
 
Can't find my tubing. Will have to search some more.

Thats okey, take your time.:)

I was just reading what you posted on page 8 and i understand it alot better now, for some reason i misunderstood it at first, but do continue with the pic tutorial.:)👍

EDIT: Is there a certain paint stripper you recommend or does it matter?
 
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So I brought in the BMW so I sprayed a black stripe on. Remove the masking tape, and just my luck, it takes some of the paint along with it. :grumpy:


Getting this stripe on may prove to be a bigger challenge than I hoped. Maybe electrical tape will do the trick, OR I clear coat the white with 2 lights and one medium, and then proceed with spraying on a stripe. Thoughts?
 
No on the electrical tape. Not sure what else to say, you saw my horrible stripe results on my Caterham.

Edit: axle resizing tutorial incoming tomorrow + organized OP.
 
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I bought Tamiya masking tape at my local Hobbytown for $6-7. I know that's steep for a half inch wide roll that you can hide in your hand, but it works wonders for me. They had all different sizes too.
 
Even more reason to do it, if you ask me.

[EDIT]

:lol::lol::lol: at the "Tamaya" ones.


@ R1600. When i posted this ^, i actually came across them for sale on a Japanese hobby site, they were all sold out along with the other mock branded stuff he'd done, ('sold out' notice over the same image you've recently posted)... So they are sold, though not necessarily by him.

@ AOS. Definitely not electrical tape... i recently removed electrical tape from one of my stripped 240Z's, even after washing with soapy water there was some tacky residue left behind on the body... so maybe try something with a weaker bond but make sure you burnish it well when applying, otherwise your stripes will end up looking like that 'Mini' i did (terrible).


[EDIT]

Small little update on the 'Z' and 'RWB'.

Decided to re-sculpture the head lights on the 'Z', they're now smaller than the original ones i did, but have better shape, and are fared into the wings to form a more accurate depiction (imo) than the HW cast, (i'm referencing from RL 'Z' pics and other 'Z' models i own), also as can be seen, iv'e flush fitted some new rear arches... had to do this so i can correctly place the arch blisters (when i get around to doing them), i really should have posted the original HW cast so the difference can be seen. On the RL car, the top edge of the arch blisters run in line with the top of the door handles (or thereabouts), on the HW cast they're placed well above that, to accommodate the massive rear wheels. Also i'll be adding deeper side sills to the car at some point.. along with a slight drop of ride height at the front of the car.





Have also added the missing badge on the fastback pillar (just needs shaping), and have filled in the double exhaust apertures, and made a new offset one which will have a nice new fat single exhaust poking out of it when finished. :D
Clumsy drilling of the rear rivet saw me going straight through the rear window... hence why it's filed out and will have a piece of clear plastic glued onto it once finished, not exactly what i would have wanted but it's a solution and a lesson learned.

(please excuse the white marks on the car/wheels... just dust build-up from filing the putty, should easily sand away once iv'e finished all the putty work).




Not much to show on the 'RWB', but it is now stripped and i've made my first front aperture (took absolutely ages filing it down.. couldn't find my hacksaw).
Hopefully, lessons learned with the puttying on the 'Z' will make working with it on the 'RWB' easier.

 
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Oh you poor thing. Filing 3/8" of metal is sad. You need to get a dremel man, Would have saved you 2 hours at least.



Also, I'm going to try making one of these too. I think I'll like using this more than paper towels. Reusing felt-tip markers as an "Acetone" marker. Remove tampos with better precision. 👍

 
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How did you drill through the window?
Carelessly :lol:. TBH, i pressed to hard with the drill... silly of me as the drill is actually quite heavy as it is, should have really just let the weight of the drill do the job.

@ AOS.
:lol: Not far off with that time estimate (atleast 1hr 30mins), not only that but 3/8" cut, tapering from 1/8" to 3/8" depth due to the nature of the cast (thicker the closer you get to the upper part of the bumper)... should be well worth it for the finished look i'm going for though, but ultimately you're right, Dremmel is really needed for work like this.

That acetone marker is a cool idea (have a few run out chisel tip 'Pantones' ideal for that application), though having used acetone before on printed aluminium, i find acetone at times can tend to be quite aggressive, and actually leaves a ghosted image of the removed print on certain finishes.
 
How To: Re-sizing HotWheels Axles
This how-to will show you one of most popular ways to make an axle that is either too short or too long, fit into the particular chassis you are working on. There are many methods to obtaining the required result, but using Brass tubing is one of the most popular in the customizing world.

As seen in the two photos below, the axles from the chassis on the left are too short to fit into the chassis to the right. After following this tutorial, you'll be able to make any size axle fit into any size chassis with ease.

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Tools Needed:
Supplies Needed:
  • 1/16" Brass Tubing (Seen Here)
  • JB Weld or other strong glue

Step 1: Marking for axle length
  • After removing the axles from each chassis, lay the brass tubing into the new chassis and mark where it needs to be cut.
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Step 2: Cutting brass tubing to size
  • Using the Dremel and cut-off wheel, carefully cut on the mark.
  • Cut just enough that the piece is still attached, but to where you can easily break it off.
  • Tip: Carefully run the ends of the brass axle extension on the surface of the cut-off wheel to smooth them out.
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Step 3: Splitting existing axles
  • Insert the axle that needs to be cut into the wire snips so that you are cutting at the middle point of the axle.
  • Snip the axle into two pieces.
  • Important: While holding the axle with the wire snips, cover it with a cloth of some sort and cup with your hand so that when you snip the axle, the parts don't get lost.
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Step 4: Installing existing axles into new extension
  • With the existing axle ends still in the wheels, insert them into the new axle extension.
  • Double check the new axle fitment in the new chassis before moving to on to the next step.
  • Some chassis may need modification to fit the new, wider axles. Carefully grinding away some material from the chassis will be required on some occasions.
  • Before crimping, be sure to leave enough space between the axle extension and the wheel so that they turn freely.
  • Using the wire snips, carefully crimp the brass tubing to hold the existing axle in place.
  • Be sure to straighten the new axle after crimping, as they tend to bend slightly.
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Step 5: Installing new axle into chassis
  • Install new axle into chassis and triple check fitment.
  • The new axle can be re-sized at this point by pulling out the existing axle, grinding down the end, and re-inserting the existing axle. This can be done as long as the crimps were done lightly.
  • Once the fitment is good, you can JB Weld or glue the new axles into the chassis.

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Step 6: Finished!

DSCN5153.jpg
 
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