Hot Wheels and Matchbox Customizing Thread

[Sonygamer455]

Indeed, im not sure if the regular method you posted would work or not. The rivets we see today have a rather donut shape while redlines are different. To be honest the vehicle im looking to restore is not a redline, it is that thunderbird stocker i posted in the collectors thread (my older one that is) and it is much different than any redlines i own. Will post a pic later.

 

[Cano]

Has anybody ever drilled open red lines or any older Hot Wheels a of some sort?

Negative. The rivets are different and it looks like a pain in the ass.

I have. And yes they are a pain in the ass. The rivvet head is round and very VERY small, so the drill bit will "dance" on your chassis a lot, be careful. If you use a Dremel, there is a bit that will chew them in no time but I don't know what it's caled.

 

[Sonygamer455]

I think i may know were your going, to be honest i use a different bit than what R1600Turbo posted, i don't mean to brag but mine works better than what he posted, unfortunitly i doubt my camera is strong enough to provide a good enough pic for ya'll to see. I will give you this, the bit is like a ball with some small blades on the sides. Grinds rivets really well!👍 I will try to show what im talking about if i can.

As for this Thunderbird stocker, it's rivet is different than a redline's, it's just a round solid nub. Again will try to upload a pic later.
EDIT: Im a platnium member now!💡

 

[CodeRedR51]

You're talking about one of these?

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=114

I use that to grind off the tabs on metal chassis when freeing them of their axles. I'd be afraid that thing would skip around while trying to grind down a rivet. Plus, there's no problem using regular drill bits like 99% of other people who do this.

 

[Sonygamer455]

Yea thats it, thats what i use. I prefer it because it won't drill through the vehicle itself and it gets the job done faster for me. The Thunderbird does have metal chasis by the way and the rivet i specified above.

 

[CodeRedR51]

I prefer it because it won't drill through the vehicle itself...

Well don't be a noob then and go slow.

 

[McZachenF1138]

I have one of those bits too. I think it came from heaven.

 

[Sonygamer455]

Well don't be a noob then and go slow.

Im no longer a noob to this drilling stuff anymore. I no longer have to pester my dad to do it for me. I just use because theres less risk in damaging it.

 

[CodeRedR51]

Err, I think there's more risk but OK.

 

[McZachenF1138]

While removing axles off of a metal base, that bit skipped and hit my finger.
I thought I was dead. But I actually think it spins so fast that it would do less damage to your body.

 

[CodeRedR51]

Yeah, wanna keep your fingers away.

 

[AOS-]

You're talking about one of these?

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=114

I use that to grind off the tabs on metal chassis when freeing them of their axles. I'd be afraid that thing would skip around while trying to grind down a rivet. Plus, there's no problem using regular drill bits like 99% of other people who do this.

That's what I use too.... are you guys going straight down on it? I'm using the side and that's how I get massive holes like you saw in my Delorean.

 

[CodeRedR51]

People, I made the tutorial for a reason.

 

[AOS-]

You used a drill!

 

[CodeRedR51]

So? Don't have one? $30 at Wal-Mart, variable speed Black & Decker.

Works like a charm.

 

[AOS-]

I have a drill.... in fact, dad has like 4.

I tried to disassemble another car over the weekend with a drill again, took forever, didn't finish, gave up and went back to the dremel bit.

 

[CodeRedR51]

Then buy new bits man!

If something isn't working "good", then something is wrong. I wish I could take a video of me drilling a car apart. Without the extra step to drill for my 2-56 screws, I could seriously separate a car in less than 20 seconds. Go to Wal-Mart and buy a Black & Decker 3/16" drill bit. 3-4 short bursts with that thing and it's done.

 

[AOS-]

I'll try some other drill bits first before I go buy a bit for myself.


Are you going at high speed? Low speed?

 

[CodeRedR51]

Low speed. Like I said, 3-4 short bursts of the trigger (don't hold your finger down) and it's ready to come apart. Bit works fantastic. 👍

 

[AOS-]

Word.

In any case, I found a Canadian-based site that's got decal paper for $10, and ships at a flat-rate of $3.50. I'm really tempted to try this so I can brand all my customs, but I have to make sure my printer is still working first.

http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=TES9201

Get interested, other Canadian-based collectors... wherever you are.

 

[Sonygamer455]

I have one of those bits too. I think it came from heaven.

Indeed

Err, I think there's more risk but OK.

Well, different people get different results of course, what's easy for you may not be as easy for others.

While removing axles off of a metal base, that bit skipped and hit my finger.
I thought I was dead. But I actually think it spins so fast that it would do less damage to your body.

I usually keep mine on a slower speed so I can grind the rivet off without hurting myself.

Yeah, wanna keep your fingers away.

Yea definitely.

By the way here's that picture I had been meaning to post. This is my other Thunderbird stocker I got long time ago. Someone at my church gave it to me and my brother back when I was 5 and my brother 3. As you can see, it is beat up, paint has certainly seen better days and on top of that it hardly roles anymore.

Here is the rivet on the bottom, I know the quality isn't too good but as you can see it is a rounded nub.

Edit: Reuploaded since I no longer need Photobucket.

 

[Nessy]

Hey guys, for rounded rivets, you could maybe try using a center punch and hammer first.
I've drilled open 2 cars with the rounded rivets (standard drill bit), but unfortunately couldn't find my old center punch and suffered from wandering drill.

@ R1600. I was referring to the center cap (where the studs/bolts are), i thought you'd ground it out a bit, but on further inspection i can see you haven't. BTW, the mud-flaps will definitely add to the custom, should help disguise that ill fitting rear valance (the thing i really don't like about the HW cast). Love the RX7, but was looking forward to see them wheels in a bronze colour.

 

[CodeRedR51]

They are Bronze, it just doesn't show very well in the photo.

 

[AOS-]

If I become proficient at decals, anyone want to start a small business with me?

 

[Nessy]

^ I'd buy some Andy & Jason custom specials. 'AJ's garage' has a ring to it, go on guys, make it happen.

And yeah R1600, the wheels look the same colour as the car. Probably my computer settings though.

 

[AOS-]

I haven't exactly figured out how a co-owned business would work over a long distance tbh. Jason can promote his kits, and I can promote my paint series... or I can sell my ideas to Jason for him to make.

Maybe we can both sell our customs under the same name so it creates exposure to both target markets; my buyers will know about the kits, and his customers will know about my series.

 

[Nessy]

Both idea's sound like they would work AOS. I know both of you guys like to do things by yourselves without any help, but i think a collab would definitely make sense. 👍 I think both of you have skills and attributes that would complement each others work.

 

[VspecZR1GT2RS89]

Both idea's sound like they would work AOS. I know both of you guys like to do things by yourselves without any help, but i think a collab would definitely make sense. 👍 I think both of you have skills and attributes that would complement each others work.

This. Andy and Jason, you guys should think about doing this.

 

[photonrider]

I'll definitely be customer - but the goods better be real bad.

I mean bad as in good.

 

[AOS-]

Would you buy it if the rivets had gaping huge holes?