Imports

  • Thread starter Puffy
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There are a few things on it that I will change, including the hood. The steering wheel is ugly so that's the first thing that will be changed over to a Nardi. Blue door panels will be swapped in favor of black ones, etc. You couldn't re-create this car for twice the price he's asking.
 
I trust this guy, he's been in the Miata community for a while. And I can almost bet that car hasn't been "beat" on. As far as the price, that car in stock condition with it's current mileage is probably worth around $4-5k by itself. Add in all the extras including the built motor, FMII turbo kit ($5k+ by itself), RS Aizawa body panels (Rare), etc. It's worth it to me.

I'm just waiting for money to show up in the next couple weeks, and if the car is still available I'm having it shipped to FM for a checkup, then I'm going to register it in Colorado and drive it home.

When you are in the market for a high performance car, you MUST look for the LEAST modified. Although everything looks good on the parts list, nobody can guarantee how long that built motor will last. And you might find yourself facing a $6k engine rebuild.

The miata you are buying should be low milage N/A with just intake & exhaust, with 2 way coilovers, good wheels, roll cage, safety equipment for track etc..

just noticed the AFR was 12:1 on that dyno sheet, which is a really agressive tune. Leanest for highest HP output kind of mentality.. that motor will not last with that tune on the track. I give you my word for it.

btw, I build track cars for a living so take my advice seriously..
 
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Unless he has some super sweet expensive turbo kit, I wouldn't pay over 5 for it. To be honest. Cheap wheels, a couple more cheap looking parts, and probably not an M Edition? Definitely not worth it. When you said 10k I thought it had a V8
You have any idea what you're talking about? It's obviously an extremely clean (look at that engine bay!), well taken care of, well built, and stout car. I would certainly offer the guy less to begin with, by considering that finding an NA Miata in that good of condition stock would cost you about $5000, this might actually be a decent price.

For the record, I would pay less for an M-edition because luxury appointments have no place in a Miata. You've been playing too much Gran Turismo lol.
 
just noticed the AFR was 12:1 on that dyno sheet, which is a really agressive tune. Leanest for highest HP output kind of mentality.. that motor will not last with that tune on the track. I give you my word for it.

Depends on what octane fuel the car runs on. At 93 octane or above that AFR is OK. Even so, if by some slim chance the motor pops I can put a stock 1.8 back in it for $500, detune to ~240whp and run it that way.

I also work at a performance shop, and we do have a chassis dyno. No reason I couldn't just re-tune it, although I may switch the car over to E85 anyway when it gets here. 👍

For the record, I would pay less for an M-edition because luxury appointments have no place in a Miata. You've been playing too much Gran Turismo lol.

:lol:

There was a nice 1996 M-Edition listed on craigslist here in Phoenix a week ago. Had 32k original miles and the thing was MINT. they wanted $8k for it. :ill:
 
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For the record, I would pay less for an M-edition because luxury appointments have no place in a Miata. You've been playing too much Gran Turismo lol.

Of course they add a fair amount of weight but the additions to the car stock I like more, as well as the color options.
 
Depends on what octane fuel the car runs on. At 93 octane or above that AFR is OK. Even so, if by some slim chance the motor pops I can put a stock 1.8 back in it for $500, detune to ~240whp and run it that way.

I also work at a performance shop, and we do have a chassis dyno. No reason I couldn't just re-tune it, although I may switch the car over to E85 anyway when it gets here. 👍

I dont know where you guys race but we do road racing, you cannot run 12:1 on a 110F day more than 1-2 laps. We dont run 30psi on e85 neither. So I guess you will not get my point here.

FYI, you can only make 200BHP on a stock 1.8L with a bolt on turbo kit.
240WHP is about 280BHP, which is not possible unless you are on a disneyjet.
 
I dont know where you guys race but we do road racing, you cannot run 12:1 on a 110F day more than 1-2 laps. We dont run 30psi on e85 neither. So I guess you will not get my point here.

FYI, you can only make 200BHP on a stock 1.8L with a bolt on turbo kit.
240WHP is about 280BHP, which is not possible unless you are on a disneyjet.

Something I also realized last night is my elevation is slightly higher than his, which with less air will bump the AFR down a bit into the 11's. And who said anything about running 30psi?

And 240whp is more than possible on a stock 1.8. Seen it done several times, including a stock Mazdaspeed on 93 octane put out almost 290. Hell my stock 1.6 with a small turbo and a piggyback put down 195. Check here:

http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4520&parentid=0&stocknumber=22-11150 BLK GAUGE

The FM II is a legend in the Miata performance world, and this is the latest and most powerful version. Expect approximately 265 hp at the rear wheels at 12 psi, compared to a stock 100 hp. Driveability is excellent and there`s no need to even remove the valve cover....

👍
 
Something I also realized last night is my elevation is slightly higher than his, which with less air will bump the AFR down a bit into the 11's. And who said anything about running 30psi?

And 240whp is more than possible on a stock 1.8. Seen it done several times, including a stock Mazdaspeed on 93 octane put out almost 290. Hell my stock 1.6 with a small turbo and a piggyback put down 195. Check here:

http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4520&parentid=0&stocknumber=22-11150 BLK GAUGE



👍

haha the manufacturers always claim high figures to sell their stuff.

30 psi on e85 is the trend nowadays, thought you are on the same boat lol

I'm an engineer and I go by the book. If an engine outputs 130BHP at 14.7 atm pressure, guess how much it will output at atm+7psi. And this is assuming there are no major losses due to heat. So on a good day, that 1.8 will put down 200BHP, about 170WHP realisticly.

Also, all dynos are different. It could output 230WHP on a dynojet (aka disneyjet) if you do a 3rd gear pull.

Anyway, what matters is not the numbers, how the car moves, and how reliable it is. Try to read between the lines. Good luck with your purchase. Hope that motor holds for a while.
 
I'm an engineer and I go by the book. If an engine outputs 130BHP at 14.7 atm pressure, guess how much it will output at atm+7psi. And this is assuming there are no major losses due to heat. So on a good day, that 1.8 will put down 200BHP, about 170WHP realisticly.

Also, all dynos are different. It could output 230WHP on a dynojet (aka disneyjet) if you do a 3rd gear pull.

Anyway, what matters is not the numbers, how the car moves, and how reliable it is. Try to read between the lines. Good luck with your purchase. Hope that motor holds for a while.

First, I used to work for FM. We didn't advertise anything unless we had proof to back it up. There are several dyno sheets posted on their site that show 230+whp. (hub dyno, 4th gear) The stock BP motors can easily handle 12psi. It's a very solid closed deck motor. 170whp realistically? Give me a break...

Believe what you want, but you're wrong.
 
First, I used to work for FM. We didn't advertise anything unless we had proof to back it up. There are several dyno sheets posted on their site that show 230+whp. (hub dyno, 4th gear) The stock BP motors can easily handle 12psi. It's a very solid closed deck motor. 170whp realistically? Give me a break...

Believe what you want, but you're wrong.

good luck with 12psi on a stock motor 👍
 
No luck needed, done countless times before with no issue. :dunce:

Yeah I know.. perfect setup for 1-2 pulls on a dyno with tons of cool down or a freeway pull in 4th gear..

give that car to me at willowsprings in august and i will bring back you the engine pieces :D
 
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