Imports

  • Thread starter Puffy
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Im one of those people, who tested several intake systems and to me the best are the stock ones with the changes i mentioned! But in my K20 i use a AEM kai system! All depends one the aspiration of the engine and how many cubic centimeters of air you really need! My testings were always in NAs... never had a turbo to date so... i can only say that to NA engines (normally) it really is the best thing to use! Depends a lot...
You're off your rocker if you think just changing the air filter to a K&N & leaving the intake stock is the best thing.

My current car is N/A, & I can tell you that my V2 allows for much better performance than if I just strapped on a K&N filter....
 
They're more accurate than your butt dyno.
You must think your funny! Good for you:dunce:!

You're off your rocker if you think just changing the air filter to a K&N & leaving the intake stock is the best thing.

My current car is N/A, & I can tell you that my V2 allows for much better performance than if I just strapped on a K&N filter....

Im not sure what a V2 is. I have my own opinion and tested that mainly in B16 and B18! The stock air box intake, with a filter and a tube to the front bumper were the best thing to use, even when changing to bigger throttle bodys (with no ITBs)! More linear response, specially in high revs!
 
Im not sure what a V2 is. I have my own opinion and tested that mainly in B16 and B18! The stock air box intake, with a filter and a tube to the front bumper were the best thing to use! More linear response, specially in high revs!
So, just because you tested it on 2 I4 engines, you suddenly have the "information" to support that it works better for all N/A engines?

Sorry, but my N/A V6 disagrees with your theory.
 
So, just because you tested it on 2 I4 engines, you suddenly have the "information" to support that it works better for all N/A engines?

Sorry, but my N/A V6 disagrees with your theory.

Most tuners here use it. Yes in 4L engines, not sure if its good for a V6. Where did you read that i "have the "information" to support that it works better for all N/A engines"? you people are really really bad readers...
 
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Im not sure what a V2 is. I have my own opinion and tested that mainly in B16 and B18! The stock air box intake, with a filter and a tube to the front bumper were the best thing to use, even when changing to bigger throttle bodys (with no ITBs)! More linear response, specially in high revs!


Show a dyno graph to prove your point.

No proof = no point.
 
Most tuners here use it. Yes in 4L engines, not sure if its good for a V6. Where did you read that i "have the "information" to support that it works better for all N/A engines"? you people are really really bad readers...
Right here, maybe?
My testings were always in NAs... never had a turbo to date so... i can only say that to NA engines (normally) it really is the best thing to use! Depends a lot...
You didn't say I4, you said N/A engines which would imply any & all N/A engines. Your "findings" on 2 straight-4 engines doesn't mean it is the best thing to use on N/A engines. I'm sure PB will agree that it's probably not even the best thing to use on almost any engine if you're looking for power.
 

Stock intake with a K&N filter is not the best thing to use, at least not for power gains.

Depends on the car and the location of the intake. Take for example a Miata. Any normal "cold air intake" system for those cars is just the opposite. It puts the filter right next to the exhaust. "Hot air intake" is more like it. Horsepower gains = pretty much nill. The best thing you can do on these cars is to keep the stock intake system intact, then add to it. Like this:

05-28000.jpg


The extra tube, pulling cold air in to the air box from the cowl area under the windshield, paired with a high flow filter in the box works best.

Also, some cars are known to lose some mid range torque by taking out the stock crossover tube.

Just a thought. :)👍
 
Depends on the car and the location of the intake. Take for example a Miata. Any normal "cold air intake" system for those cars is just the opposite. It puts the filter right next to the exhaust. "Hot air intake" is more like it. Horsepower gains = pretty much nill. The best thing you can do on these cars is to keep the stock intake system intact, then add to it. Like this:

05-28000.jpg


The extra tube, pulling cold air in to the air box from the cowl area under the windshield, paired with a high flow filter in the box works best.

Also, some cars are known to lose some mid range torque by taking out the stock crossover tube.

Just a thought. :)👍
You've still got the awesome Jackson Racing setup.

476779811_d8f16bd363.jpg


Once again, the stock unit isn't as good.
 
You've still got the awesome Jackson Racing setup.

*

Once again, the stock unit isn't as good.

Not sure if we have ever tested one of those. I've only seen one in person and there were a couple spots on it that had started cracking. Not sure if they make them anymore. In any case, that would be my second pick after the setup in my post above. Anything else doesn't help hardly at all.
 
I guess, going by your researches, that I've wasted a whole lot of money for nothing back in the day, with my 3" intake going to a 70mm throttle body and JG VictorX manifold... Managed to get 230whp out of an N/A B20VTEC, I probably could have picked up another 30whp or so by keeping the stock airbox.

I've worked on Hondas for nearly 14 years, how could I not think of that...
 
GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.....I'm a Beamer!

I've never, ever seen a car where the bonnet has been extended that I've actually liked. It looks dumb and it's not particularly intelligent covering most of your headlights either...
 
I guess, going by your researches, that I've wasted a whole lot of money for nothing back in the day, with my 3" intake going to a 70mm throttle body and JG VictorX manifold... Managed to get 230whp out of an N/A B20VTEC, I probably could have picked up another 30whp or so by keeping the stock airbox.

I've worked on Hondas for nearly 14 years, how could I not think of that...
Seriously, what were you thinking!

Speaking of naturally aspirated engines, not everything works the same. I haven't found a single intake system worth a damn for my rotary. Nobody bothers with it because apparently the engine just isn't sensitive to it, and there aren't enough gains to be had to justify it. Simply replacing the stock filter with a high-flow one is the norm.

Exhaust mods are where its at on an NA rotary. Did the test pipe on you Integra net you 17 whp? :lol:
 
Type R Schmype R. Do you realize how many ridiculous JDM badges I have to choose from? Here, let me fire up Gran Turismo, the only thing where all RX7 badge names have been collected into a single source.
 
Right here, maybe?

You didn't say I4, you said N/A engines which would imply any & all N/A engines. Your "findings" on 2 straight-4 engines doesn't mean it is the best thing to use on N/A engines. I'm sure PB will agree that it's probably not even the best thing to use on almost any engine if you're looking for power.
It wasnt "my" finds. Really was "my" finds" plus most of the cars here! I also said it changes from car to car.

Depends on the car and the location of the intake. Take for example a Miata. Any normal "cold air intake" system for those cars is just the opposite. It puts the filter right next to the exhaust. "Hot air intake" is more like it. Horsepower gains = pretty much nill. The best thing you can do on these cars is to keep the stock intake system intact, then add to it. Like this:



The extra tube, pulling cold air in to the air box from the cowl area under the windshield, paired with a high flow filter in the box works best.

Also, some cars are known to lose some mid range torque by taking out the stock crossover tube.

Just a thought. :)👍
Huh?? No?? dont believe you!! You dont know what your talking about! I work in Hondas for 50 years and never thought of that:crazy::sly::lol:!

I guess, going by your researches, that I've wasted a whole lot of money for nothing back in the day, with my 3" intake going to a 70mm throttle body and JG VictorX manifold... Managed to get 230whp out of an N/A B20VTEC, I probably could have picked up another 30whp or so by keeping the stock airbox.

I've worked on Hondas for nearly 14 years, how could I not think of that...

Why you all cant read properly?! Why dont you try and read "SLOWLY" my posts again! Read the part where i say it variates from car to car and where i say i didnt use that (has i proved in my photos in another thread) in my K20 swap...

Spoon B18
file_3_2.jpg

17220-EGA-000-1.jpg


K20
IMG_5612.jpg

17220-FD2-000-1.jpg



Mugen!
MugenRR.jpg



Mines with stock box!
130_0703_05_z+r34_nissan_skyline_gtr+engine_bay.jpg


Check 0:40!
 
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I've never, ever seen a car where the bonnet has been extended that I've actually liked. It looks dumb and it's not particularly intelligent covering most of your headlights either...

I've always had a thing for bosers, I don't know I think they look sort of cool. Really I just thought that picture was funny.
 
I guess, going by your researches, that I've wasted a whole lot of money for nothing back in the day, with my 3" intake going to a 70mm throttle body and JG VictorX manifold... Managed to get 230whp out of an N/A B20VTEC, I probably could have picked up another 30whp or so by keeping the stock airbox.

I've worked on Hondas for nearly 14 years, how could I not think of that...

This directed at me?

Cause I did say....

Depends on the car and the location of the intake...

;)
 
It's on bags so it's just aired out for the photos, and yes that interior is awesome, I'd love to rock something like that.
 
Nice Golf. Needs different wheels though. The front could also use a little lift and a little more tire stretch (or offset) so it doesn't look like the fender is wrapping around the wheel as much.

I've never, ever seen a car where the bonnet has been extended that I've actually liked. It looks dumb and it's not particularly intelligent covering most of your headlights either...

Those and eyelids. They always look very stupid and kinda ricey. But I'm also a huge fan of the near-stock look. That might explain why I don't find any of those Nissans farther up the page attractive at all.
 
The side profile shot looks weird with the rear wheel not centered.

Ya I just noticed that, I assume it has something to do with the bags. I've never done bags on a car before so I'm not sure how the set up even works.
 
It wasnt "my" finds. Really was "my" finds" plus most of the cars here!I also said it changes from car to car.
Now you're changing your words again. First you say N/A engines, which implies any & all, then you backpedal, & now you're claiming your "theory" works for most of the cars here, which is what? The cars you posted?

That's not proof.
Here, let me do what you did.
Amuse.
acr3.jpg


Posting a modified car doesn't prove your point.
 
Ya I just noticed that, I assume it has something to do with the bags. I've never done bags on a car before so I'm not sure how the set up even works.
It's just a result of how the suspension arms travel. It's one reason I think many cars look dumb lowered. The rear wheels of a Civic will move forward when slammed also.

As for Horde, Spoon wouldn't want to use a different company's system on their car. The J's Racing-style powerchamber is one of if not the best system for older Honda engines in multiple aspects. Quite a bit better than anything Spoon or Mugen has come up with, in fact.
 
It's just a result of how the suspension arms travel. It's one reason I think many cars look dumb lowered. The rear wheels of a Civic will move forward when slammed also.

Is it just with bags or will a static drop do the same thing? Although most laid out cars I've seen are running bags vs. static because they don't want their spines to shatter.
 
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