JrDarknes 240sx

  • Thread starter JrDarknes
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Was drifting and suddenly I broke a coilover. I think it is straight bull.... All I did is get a little lift off the ground and the freaking thing breaks. I think its cause the previous owner didn't put it on right but who knows.

Edit: Cause of the damage was hitting the curb. Not the lift.
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All together it cost 1200 To get everything fixed which means I only have 40 bucks in my savings now so there goes my SR20det money was half way there for getting the engine and having a shop put it in for 3000 bucks. Probably wont get it til July or August now "V_v.

But I get a pair of stock rims for 100 bucks that came with tires. Looks pretty nice to me.
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Anna+Reece
Those SE 7 Spokes are awesome. Don't GodSpeed coilovers have a lifetime warranty though?

I kept calling them, no answer. Emailed them several times, no response. Plus since I didn't technically buy the coilovers I don't think it would of been in affect anyway.
 
I kept calling them, no answer. Emailed them several times, no response. Plus since I didn't technically buy the coilovers I don't think it would of been in affect anyway.
I'm not sure, but I saw a guy on Zilvia mention something about a lifetime warranty with GodSpeeds. Dunno exactly how it works though honestly.
 
So was driving on the highway and noticed when I pressed the gas my rpms would rise and go nowhere. Basically my clutch was slipping. FML. So I dig in my FREAKING SWAP MONEY AGAIN..... and get it fixed.

Basically I'm thinking of just going with a RB20DET instead of a Sr20det only cause its cheaper and problems keep popping up with this KA24DE
 
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Don't you just LOVE how stuff breaks right when you are about to buy something cool?

Do the RB20 swap. RB20s are great and cheap.

Good luck on August 14th.
 
With the money spent this far you could've bought a Mk3 Supra and have somewhat reliable car with better performance and much better potential. It's still not too late to change the plan and get that Supra.. ;)
 
If you're into modlifying cars you shouldn't be looking at money any further than "what's the best deal I can get for the current part I want. Especially not when you're telling yourself what better car you could've had with all the money you have spent. If you want to go by that then just get a decent reliable car and don't modify it. I've spent well over 10,000 in my car just in parts not counting things that degrade like brakes and tires (which is a significant portion.) Not only would it have taken me all these years to save up for the equivalent car in value but I don't want a stock car.
 
SR20det is cheaper. Trust me, I wanted to go the rb20det route for a few years before I finally decided to go with SR, and then conviently came across a good deal on one.

I did the same math you did, but I'll tell you right now, it's not anywhere near accurate, you forgot a fuel pump, and a wideband gauge, and you probably won't get an intake with your swap, or any belts, and something will be leaking on the engine, and then you'll pull the ka and find a broken engine mount, and then your battery won't fit in the engine bay anymore, and then your exhaust won't line up, and you'll be missing the drive belts, then you'll find out your clutch fan doesn't fit anymore, and your "budget" just goes completely out the window. I bought my blown sr for $800, and thought wow this is so much cheaper than the rb, and it bolts right in! I'll save so much money!

$5000 later, my car finally runs. And yeah it bolted right in lol.

Also, I've seen people selling complete running swaps with everything in the engine bay for $2000(usually a lot of aftermarket stuff). I wish I had known that they go for that much. So much cheaper than buying the engine from an importer.
 
Leonidae@MFT
With the money spent this far you could've bought a Mk3 Supra and have somewhat reliable car with better performance and much better potential. It's still not too late to change the plan and get that Supra.. ;)

I really can't leave this 240. I hate it when i get out the car and leave it. The mkiii supra is alright but I hate the dash and its a pretty big car.

speed junkie
I've spent well over 10,000 in my car just in parts not counting things that degrade like brakes and tires (which is a significant portion.) Not only would it have taken me all these years to save up for the equivalent car in value but I don't want a stock car.

Wow, must be z rated tires.

Perfect Balance
SR20det is cheaper. Trust me, I wanted to go the rb20det route for a few years before I finally decided to go with SR, and then conviently came across a good deal on one.

I did the same math you did, but I'll tell you right now, it's not anywhere near accurate, you forgot a fuel pump, and a wideband gauge, and you probably won't get an intake with your swap, or any belts, and something will be leaking on the engine, and then you'll pull the ka and find a broken engine mount, and then your battery won't fit in the engine bay anymore, and then your exhaust won't line up, and you'll be missing the drive belts, then you'll find out your clutch fan doesn't fit anymore, and your "budget" just goes completely out the window. I bought my blown sr for $800, and thought wow this is so much cheaper than the rb, and it bolts right in! I'll save so much money!

$5000 later, my car finally runs. And yeah it bolted right in lol.

Also, I've seen people selling complete running swaps with everything in the engine bay for $2000(usually a lot of aftermarket stuff). I wish I had known that they go for that much. So much cheaper than buying the engine from an importer.

Thanks for that info. Did not know you would need all that dude. I would of been so mad...

I also was wondering why the shop was charging me only 2500 [excluding intercooler and radiator] for the Sr20 swap, didn't know people sold Sr20det's that cheap.

Hopefully I just get money from my old car. I'm going to make sure not to rely on it though.
 
Wow, must be z rated tires.

I've gone from BF Goodrich G Force Sport, to Falken RT615, to Kumho Ecsta XS. Then I bought a second set of wheels to use Toyo R888s (and Dunlop DZ101 for dailies.) I'm down to my second set of R888s and now have Fuzion ZRi I'll be using for dailies. And yeah, I didn't count that into my "money spent" since those are things that degrade. The same is true for the many sets of Hawk HP Plus pads that I've used (and rotors) as well as Motul products.
My point is that if you're into modifying cars, expect to spend allot of money you'll never get back. I laugh when people complain about spending more money on an item than what their car's worth (or even half.) I tell them, you must be new here.

Thanks for that info. Did not know you would need all that dude. I would of been so mad...

That's just the reality of what happens with these sorts of things. You're not going to find that in a how-to checklist because they're not "needed" to complete the swap. They're just problems that you'll likely come across. You have to prepare for the worst, not the best. The 1.8 swap in my Miata "requires" even less than the SR swap in 240s and I still ended up spending like 1000+ more from just random stuff.
Be patient and save up.
 
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Brief Summary: KA went Boom


So I got 1500 Dollars. Was saving for a SR but since Engine went Boom. Was gonna see what can I do now.

There's a Ka24de on ebay for $850 free shipping, 121K miles. Might buy that or there's this engine in Kentucky for 500 but I cant go down there unless my dad agrees with me. I have friend who will install the the Ka for 200 bucks.

Was just asking if you guys had any better advice.
I really want a Rebuilt KA so bad though
 
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Keep looking. My running engine was for sale for months at $450 with a Fidanza flywheel and ACT clutch, but nobody wanted it. Ended up selling it for $250.
 
Hmmmm.... From the two KA engines you listed JD, they are great deals.

But I would ask for more info on the $500 KA24 that's in Kentucky. It sounds and look cheap, but it could be a huge waste if the engine is about to break down, or has bigger problems. Ask the owner/seller about some details on it and its condition by email. If it is a better engine with lower miles for 500 and 200 for your friend to install it. That's 700 dollars spent. You can save some $$$ for maintenance and/or mods later.

If that not the perfect engine, then the $850. But look At these two and email both sellers for more info on the KAs. Hope this helps. :)👍
 
$500 for a KA24 isn't too bad really. Though with ANY motor you buy, you should ask the seller for details.

I had that same issue with my Supra. I would hear the starter engage, but it wouldn't even turn over. Turns out, the issue WAS the starter. Have you tried starting the car since?

It could just be the starter, but maybe it's something worse.
 
500 seems like a bit much for an engine everyone rips out at swaps in an SR. Have you checked all the local junkyards, pick n pulls, and even craigslist?
 
Ask the owner/seller about some details on it and its condition by email. If it is a better engine with lower miles for 500 and 200 for your friend to install it. That's 700 dollars spent. You can save some $$$ for maintenance and/or mods later.

If that not the perfect engine, then the $850. But look At these two and email both sellers for more info on the KAs. Hope this helps. :)👍

Really preferring the 850 dollar one just because lower miles and free shipping and I can make a offer it's not just buy it now. (it's on eBay)

I had that same issue with my Supra. I would hear the starter engage, but it wouldn't even turn over. Turns out, the issue WAS the starter. Have you tried starting the car since?

It could just be the starter, but maybe it's something worse.

Did you read the thread about my car running out of oil?
500 seems like a bit much for an engine everyone rips out at swaps in an SR. Have you checked all the local junkyards, pick n pulls, and even craigslist?

I thought that was cheap til PB told me how much he sold his for. I put a Craigslist ad and I'm getting a couple calls so I'm going see what I can get them for.
 
Why are you "saving" for a SR20 when your car is stock?
Work on getting a good suspension, fixing all rust, making it look good then worry about the engine. If the KA is not ****ing up then I dont think you should worry about an SR.


Are you drifting? In that case, worry about making it look good while practicing with the KA. Until you get your skills downpack dont try to upgrade the motor, it will stunt your growth.
 
Why are you "saving" for a SR20 when your car is stock?
Work on getting a good suspension, fixing all rust, making it look good then worry about the engine. If the KA is not ****ing up then I dont think you should worry about an SR.

To be honest. If I did all what you said in reverse when I first got this car. I would not be in this situation. I actually almost went in that order you just mentioned and regret it.

Also I don't drift.
 
To be honest. If I did all what you said in reverse when I first got this car. I would not be in this situation. I actually almost went in that order you just mentioned and regret it.

I thought your engine blew up because CarX didn't tighten something and it was ran out of oil? Aside from possible not getting it changed at CarX, how would replacing the engine when you got the car have changed that?

Also I don't drift.

Hmm...

Cool car!

Of course, the inevitable question whenever someone gets their hands on one of these: will you be drifting it? :sly:

Yea especially when indy gives track days.

Was drifting and suddenly I broke a coilover.
 
Oh damn, I didn't see that other thread... :scared:

Go for one of those KAs then. Though like stated before, I wouldn't pay much more than 500 for a good KA.
 
I thought your engine blew up because CarX didn't tighten something and it was ran out of oil? Aside from possible not getting it changed at CarX, how would replacing the engine when you got the car have changed that?

Hmm...

When he asked if I was drifting I thought he meant currently. I stopped a while back.

I thought so too and that's what the other mechanics said but they are refusing to cover it. They are confident it blew cause of the connecting rod because of high mileage on my car.They said they tightened everything. I honestly don't want to go through another mediation. I just went through one with my previous car accident and it was pain in the ass

Changing the engine when I first got the car. I'm guessing I would not have went through my clutch so soon and probably could have lasted longer on the road.

When I first got the car it idled really bad and would die as soon as I stopped. Changed spark plugs, fixed the distributor, changed spark plug wires, o2 sensor and had a fuel injector cleaned. Then it would sometimes lack power out of nowhere. After all of that D=.

I just think if I didn't worry about my paint job,dents and sunroof and had focused on my engine more. I probably wouldn't be here now lol.

Just my opinion
 
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=)))) Ships tomorrow (bought it on the sixth (09/06/13)). Expecting it to arrive Monday. Then I will have it installed.

I honestly want to attempt to rebuild my old engine just for the experience but I might try that in the summer.
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