La Sarthe and Spa ,weather report and other " stuff "

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R31 Skyline works well here, got a 4:10 on lap 2 before the heavens unleashed a hurricane for like 4 laps straight. just need some tweaking to the setup before sharing.
 
2.08 fast lap on normal!
Unfortunatly the AI pace is absolutey inconsistent to really tell a difference between the 3 difficulties by a single race.
I cant talk conclusively for La-Sarthe or Spa but only for Tokyo, but the AI total race times very different by a whole minute for the fastest AI, which means an average difference of 5 seconds per lap without considering any other factor.
 
Completely dry race this time in the R31

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Here's the tune if anyone wants to try it, it's a WIP as I'm going away for a bit and won't have time to dial out the slow speed oversteer when releasing brakes and getting on the gas
Wide everything!
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Been really enjoying LeMans in stock power/weight Gr.4 cars that I have.
Tuned transmission, differential, small suspension tweeks and max downforce.
458, Aston, Jag and Cayman all do very well - RM and Normal difficulty.
 
Been really enjoying LeMans in stock power/weight Gr.4 cars that I have.
Tuned transmission, differential, small suspension tweeks and max downforce.
458, Aston, Jag and Cayman all do very well - RM and Normal difficulty.
Here is something to blow your mind, at Le Mans, you do not need maximum downforce, in fact you should minimize the downforce as maximum increases drag, I've been doing the "stock" Gr.4 challenges and finding out I go faster with less downforce and I still have control in the turns.
Try it, you may like it.....
 
Here is something to blow your mind, at Le Mans, you do not need maximum downforce, in fact you should minimize the downforce as maximum increases drag, I've been doing the "stock" Gr.4 challenges and finding out I go faster with less downforce and I still have control in the turns.
Try it, you may like it.....
Max downforce slows on the long straights, not necessary on LeMans. I keep wide bodies at 120/230 (default on most???, C8 and ZR1 anyway), can run 80/150 and still handle fine. GR4 I lower. Makes for good regulation to keep cars closer for proper comparison.
 
Here is something to blow your mind, at Le Mans, you do not need maximum downforce, in fact you should minimize the downforce as maximum increases drag, I've been doing the "stock" Gr.4 challenges and finding out I go faster with less downforce and I still have control in the turns.
Try it, you may like it.....
Ha, no, mind is not blown... have not tried min. downforce, none of the cars I have used struggle on the straights with the transmission tune - especially - when in a draft, and make up for lost speed (when not drafting) in the few turns we have... having said that, most of the time I still gain on the straights due to how terrible the AI is with exit speed...
I also enjoy gaining time under breaking, or catching through the Porsche Curves, esses and chicanes more than I do driving by on the straights... makes the first couple of laps really enjoyable... as it is, most races I sit at the finish and wait for the clock, although, a sometimes I have had to go ~32min.'s...
But... you say they still handle well, so, I'll have to give it a go.
Thanks.
 
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Here is something to blow your mind, at Le Mans, you do not need maximum downforce, in fact you should minimize the downforce as maximum increases drag, I've been doing the "stock" Gr.4 challenges and finding out I go faster with less downforce and I still have control in the turns.
I agree with this when it comes to high down force race cars, but the "max" down force on the Group 4 cars is very low compared to most race cars. I did some TT testing with the stock Gr 4's, all variables the same just max vs min down force.
Top speed; min>max average 4-5 MPH
Lap time; max>min average 0.8 seconds
I found, for me, in the race the max down force meant more stable breaking, higher apex and exit speeds, and the draft negated the higher top speed, plus I love taking 2 seconds out of the Viper in the Porsche curves :)
 
In a break from formal testing of the Gr.4 cars at Le Mans, I purchased another Nissan and put a new motor in, and was very shocked to find out I can do six laps at FM6 and with RH tyres it was almost a non stop race but, because of a dry race (rare these days) I had to stop at end of the 6th for splash of petrol to finish out with 7 laps and the win. Here are the settings as I use a controller and be easy on the throttle upon exits of turns, she may want to spin with it.


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In a break from formal testing of the Gr.4 cars at Le Mans, I purchased another Nissan and put a new motor in, and was very shocked to find out I can do six laps at FM6 and with RH tyres it was almost a non stop race but, because of a dry race (rare these days) I had to stop at end of the 6th for splash of petrol to finish out with 7 laps and the win. Here are the settings as I use a controller and be easy on the throttle upon exits of turns, she may want to spin with it.


View attachment 1387984View attachment 1387985
So technically you could still win by doing at least one stop in the middle with FM4 and or with RM or RS...

But since most of the time you have at least rain conditions requiring IM tires... That means at least one pit stop for it, right ?
 
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So technically you could still win by doing at least one stop in the middle with FM4 and or with RM or RS...

But since most of the time you have at least rain conditions requiring IM tires... That means at least one pit stop for it, right ?
i agree......
 
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