Liam's NA Miata - Finally back on the road!!!

Looks like the mechanics up there are taking advantage of the fact that they don't have much competition so they can jack up their prices and get away with it.

Don't think you realize just what a good learner's car the Miata is. Nearly everything under the hood is easily accessible, there are dozens of forums online each with vast amounts of information and tutorials available at your fingertips. And your car is old enough that no matter what issue you have someone probably already had it and posted up his solution online. USE THIS INFORMATION
 
Here's my take. You reversed polarity and it blew the alternator fuse or multiple fuses. You drove it on just battery power until it went dead. Your mechanic found out the alternator was not charging so he replaced the alternator. Then after the new alternator was installed, your mechanic realized that it still was not charging and replaced the alternator fuse that was blown from reversing the polarity. Ask for an explanation on why you are paying for an alternator that you probably never needed in the first place.
 
@LeadFootLiam don't take these comments the wrong way. We don't like it when mechanics take advantage of fellow members. We try to give you alternative options to help you fix your car, because frankly, what you have done, is gone to the hospital after you received a paper cut.

In retrospect, you should have brought the car home and inspected it thoroughly. I know this is your DD but like so many others have said, this is a really simple car to take care of.

Again, don't take them the wrong way. We'll cut you a break as it seems everyone - including me - has been hacking away at you since day one.

Looks like the mechanics up there are taking advantage of the fact that they don't have much competition so they can jack up their prices and get away with it.

That's exactly what they do.
 
I am the Service Manager at an Automotive Repair Facility btw incase anyone was wondering. I'm not saying your guy ripped you off. He told you that there was no alternator fuse I'm assuming. Most cars do have them and they do blow if you reverse polarity. You may want to research if your car is equipped with one. If not, you may have fried the alternator too. It may or may not have needed an alternator depending on that.
 
@LeadFootLiam don't take these comments the wrong way. We don't like it when mechanics take advantage of fellow members. We try to give you alternative options to help you fix your car, because frankly, what you have done, is gone to the hospital after you received a paper cut.

In retrospect, you should have brought the car home and inspected it thoroughly. I know this is your DD but like so many others have said, this is a really simple car to take care of.

Again, don't take them the wrong way. We'll cut you a break as it seems everyone - including me - has been hacking away at you since day one.

If I knew that an alternator was easy to fix I would have taken it home. I'm not taking them the wrong way, this was the first time Ive broken down, I'll do things differently next time.

The Miata is one of the easiest cars to work on. There's really not much to them. Like I said, alternator is 2 bolts. New alternator is like $120 or so depending on where you buy it. You can also get good, used ones for less than half that. Release the tensioner, remove the lower bolt, pull out the old one - put in the new one, install lower bolt, tighten tensioner, done. :)

Yes I know, but I've said this before I DIDNT KNOW THAT AN ALTERNATOR WAS EASY TO REPLACE. Now I know and its too late.

If you hooked up the jumper cables wrong, it's called reversing polarity. It will blow one or multiple fuses in the underhood fuse box so it doesn't fry the ECU. It likely never even needed alternator replacement.

The mechanic said that the alternator fried too.
 
Boy do mechanics try and screw you over. I just got quoted for $1100 to replace upper and lower rear control arms, and rear knuckle on my Miata. $120 in parts and a few hours this weekend and things will be back to normal. 👍
 
Decided to repaint my valve cover, it was very ugly. For some rereason GTP won't let me upload the photo of how it looked before I started stripping the paint.

After some wax and grease remover, and a good wire brushing, this is what it looked like.

IMG_9988.JPG


I decided to paint it wrinkle red.

IMG_9989.JPG


I put one heavy coat on.

IMG_9991.JPG


If your going to use this wrinkle paint, it takes for ever to dry, it says leave it to dry for 24 hours. The wrinkle effect doesn't start until around 2-3 hours. This was 2 and half hours after I painted it.

IMG_9995.JPG


The next day, I put it back on!

IMG_0074.JPG


IMG_0077.JPG
IMG_0078.JPG


Looks awesome! What do you guys think?

On a side note, I have a wheel alignment scheduled for tomorrow, so hopefully there is no clunk when I turn. If they can fix it, then I'll be going to some Auto cross events in the winter!

 
If it is making a noise when turn then it could be a broken ball joint.

Also, you may want to check your brake fluid, looks a little dark ( could just be the image ).
 
Little things that make your car look better... Should have taped up the lettering to make it pop! Take off the Intake manifold and wire wheel that... nice and shiny! May want to do that to the headers too. Some high heat black Tremclad would bring the engine bay to life! I also suggest pressure washing the engine bay if the motor comes out any time soon...
 
Yeah, it's past changing time.

Also, @LeadFootLiam might I suggest you resize your photos in the future? Some of us still use devices that cough and choke when they need to load gigantic photos. ;)

I'll try.

If it is making a noise when turn then it could be a broken ball joint.

Also, you may want to check your brake fluid, looks a little dark ( could just be the image ).

Ya it is. Replacing the brake fluid and bleeding them kinda scares me. IDK why.

Little things that make your car look better... Should have taped up the lettering to make it pop! Take off the Intake manifold and wire wheel that... nice and shiny! May want to do that to the headers too. Some high heat black Tremclad would bring the engine bay to life! I also suggest pressure washing the engine bay if the motor comes out any time soon...

Thanks, I plan on getting a chrome project g oil cap, new intake, and a heat shield to cover up and block heat from going to the intake. I was thinking about taking off the intake, have to read up on how to do it.

Reverse 180 degree headers with a twin intake manifold, would sound beautiful if you figure out how to fit it into the Miata.

You mean ITBs?
 
Ya it is. Replacing the brake fluid and bleeding them kinda scares me. IDK why.

It can be quite daunting doing brake work, since doing it wrong can have significant safety consequences. However not a whole lot can go wrong with a fluid change and bleed. Key thing to do after any brake work is to make sure you're happy with the feel of the brakes and the ability of the car to stop before you take it out onto the road.
 
It can be quite daunting doing brake work, since doing it wrong can have significant safety consequences. However not a whole lot can go wrong with a fluid change and bleed. Key thing to do after any brake work is to make sure you're happy with the feel of the brakes and the ability of the car to stop before you take it out onto the road.

Okay, I might just empty the brake master cylinder and fill it up with new fluid, since most of the fluid is in there.
 
Ya it is. Replacing the brake fluid and bleeding them kinda scares me. IDK why.

The REAL scary part of replacing the fluid ( even if you don't bleed them ) is accidentally getting brake fluid on paint :scared:. So cover the fenders and anything else you don't want to strip the paint off of.

If you can get someone to push the pedal down it really isn't bad. IMHO you would mostly likely end up with a soft brake pedal if you mess it up as long as you don't let the reservoir go dry when bleeding or completely forget about refilling the reservoir.

Best way I found to test any brake job is get some chocks, put them behind the car about 2 meters, inline with the tires. Use a marker to mark the brake fluid level exactly. Backup slowish and then give the brakes 100%. If it stops dead and the pedal feels good, pull forwards and replete. Return the car to the location you measured the brake fluid in. Then hop out of the car, remove chocks, check brake fluid level.
 
Valve cover turned out fantastic!! What a huge difference. The paint would have dried faster if you put on several light coats instead of 1 heavy coat. Still turned out great. 👍

Okay, I might just empty the brake master cylinder and fill it up with new fluid, since most of the fluid is in there.
It would be better if you could replace all the fluid but if you cant, then yes just doing the mastery cylinder will be fine for now. You can use a little syphon to suck the brake fluid out of the master cylinder. Or just use a rag to soak up all the juice. Also as mentioned above, do not get the brake fluid on ANYTHING.

Also make sure you put in high temp brake fluid especially if you are considering autocross. Regular brake fluid has a low boiling point and will fry extremely fast at an autocross or road track even. So make sure you put in synthetic, high temp, brake fluid. Its only a few more dollars and well worth the purchase. You do not want to attend any of those events using regular brake fluid. So before you attend an event, make sure to bleed all the brake lines with high temp synthetic. Until then, replacing the fluid in the MC will be good enough for now.
 
Bleeding brakes is not as bad as you think... Just don't let up the pedal with the bleeder screw open and you're good to go. Also, don't forget to pump the brakes a bit after you finish, otherwise you'll be in for a rather unpleasant surprise
 
Bleeding brakes is not as bad as you think... Just don't let up the pedal with the bleeder screw open and you're good to go. Also, don't forget to pump the brakes a bit after you finish, otherwise you'll be in for a rather unpleasant surprise

I'll still just empty the master cylinder tho lol.

The REAL scary part of replacing the fluid ( even if you don't bleed them ) is accidentally getting brake fluid on paint :scared:. So cover the fenders and anything else you don't want to strip the paint off of.

If you can get someone to push the pedal down it really isn't bad. IMHO you would mostly likely end up with a soft brake pedal if you mess it up as long as you don't let the reservoir go dry when bleeding or completely forget about refilling the reservoir.

Best way I found to test any brake job is get some chocks, put them behind the car about 2 meters, inline with the tires. Use a marker to mark the brake fluid level exactly. Backup slowish and then give the brakes 100%. If it stops dead and the pedal feels good, pull forwards and replete. Return the car to the location you measured the brake fluid in. Then hop out of the car, remove chocks, check brake fluid level.

I watched Eric the car guy's video on brake fluid change, he stressed not to get any on the paint. I'm afraid I don't understand your method to test a brake job. What does it do?

Valve cover turned out fantastic!! What a huge difference. The paint would have dried faster if you put on several light coats instead of 1 heavy coat. Still turned out great. 👍


It would be better if you could replace all the fluid but if you cant, then yes just doing the mastery cylinder will be fine for now. You can use a little syphon to suck the brake fluid out of the master cylinder. Or just use a rag to soak up all the juice. Also as mentioned above, do not get the brake fluid on ANYTHING.

Also make sure you put in high temp brake fluid especially if you are considering autocross. Regular brake fluid has a low boiling point and will fry extremely fast at an autocross or road track even. So make sure you put in synthetic, high temp, brake fluid. Its only a few more dollars and well worth the purchase. You do not want to attend any of those events using regular brake fluid. So before you attend an event, make sure to bleed all the brake lines with high temp synthetic. Until then, replacing the fluid in the MC will be good enough for now.

Thanks! Ya it turned out real nice, some minor runs, but eh, still looks good. Good to know regular brake fluid won't be the best for Autocross or track days. I'll do more reading up on bleeding brakes.

Re: intake - the best thing you can do is put an intake on it that is away from the exhaust manifold, or get a Randall cowl intake tube from FM with a nice filter for the stock box.

http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4528&parentid=0&stocknumber=05-27000

Anything else just sucks in hot air.

Saw that intake it looks neat. I was going to get the DDM Works intake, it has a heat shield.http://www.ddmworks.com/Miata-Stage-1-intake-Entry-Level-Kit-Elk-by-DDMWorks_p_188.html
 
Saw that intake it looks neat. I was going to get the DDM Works intake, it has a heat shield.http://www.ddmworks.com/Miata-Stage-1-intake-Entry-Level-Kit-Elk-by-DDMWorks_p_188.html
Eh, heat shield won't help that much, you're still pulling in hot air from the engine bay. The cowl intake actually brings fresh, cold air from the cowl area under the windshield. Pair that with the high flow filter and you have one of the best intakes out there.

But do what you want. :)
 
I've been running Ate Super Blue for the brake fluid, works great. No fade at all, even on track. I also like the Motul 5.1 that I've been using for the clutch.
 
I've been running Ate Super Blue for the brake fluid, works great. No fade at all, even on track. I also like the Motul 5.1 that I've been using for the clutch.
Super Blue was actually deemed illegal recently, so I don't think you can buy it anymore. Although the same company makes another fluid which is similar but without the blue coloring.
 
Super Blue was actually deemed illegal recently, so I don't think you can buy it anymore. Although the same company makes another fluid which is similar but without the blue coloring.
He's in Canada, I don't think that ban applied there. Ate Typ 200 is the same specs, just without the blue dye.
 
I watched Eric the car guy's video on brake fluid change, he stressed not to get any on the paint. I'm afraid I don't understand your method to test a brake job. What does it do?

Basicly, but something behind the tires to stop the car if the brakes fail ( chocks ), then put the car in reverse for a second, then "both feet in" and brake with full force. The car should stop hard and not need to hit the chocks. If you don't bleed the brakes you can skip measuring the fluid level.

Another good thing I have noticed about autocross ( I hope do some, they are SO much fun ) is it a very good reminder to give the car a good once over. Check the suspension, brakes, hoses, etc. I found I had a slightly loose battery the night before the event ( even though I tightened it only 2 weeks before... ).

Also, for cleaning the engine bay, get a cheap brush like this:

dish+brush.jpg


And some dish soap. After a light scrub all the dirt will be easily removed with a damp rag. Note, dish soap will remove wax.
 
Looks great, just hope you used high temp paint. I'd do the headers next!
 
Back