Eh, heat shield won't help that much, you're still pulling in hot air from the engine bay. The cowl intake actually brings fresh, cold air from the cowl area under the windshield. Pair that with the high flow filter and you have one of the best intakes out there.
But do what you want.
Basicly, but something behind the tires to stop the car if the brakes fail ( chocks ), then put the car in reverse for a second, then "both feet in" and brake with full force. The car should stop hard and not need to hit the chocks. If you don't bleed the brakes you can skip measuring the fluid level.
Another good thing I have noticed about autocross ( I hope do some, they are SO much fun ) is it a very good reminder to give the car a good once over. Check the suspension, brakes, hoses, etc. I found I had a slightly loose battery the night before the event ( even though I tightened it only 2 weeks before... ).
Also, for cleaning the engine bay, get a cheap brush like this:
And some dish soap. After a light scrub all the dirt will be easily removed with a damp rag. Note, dish soap will remove wax.
Yes these are some of the largest resolution pics I have seen on the site. EACH pic is about 5.3 MB!!
Not much different from stock. You want sound or horsepower?
Not much different from stock. You want sound or horsepower?
I don't think anyone's done it yet. 180 degree headers are commonly used on American V8s, like a 350 Chevy small block. The point of the headers is to even out and harmonize the firing order of the engine making it sound like a European V8 (Lambo, Ferrari, etc).
For reference:
Now, a V6 doesn't need this, because well, the firing order is already in sync. V4's don't need them (used mostly on bikes). V5's.... let's not go there.
So, what I would like to do to a four-banger, is do the reverse. There are a couple of ideas floating around, but no one wants to do it, because frankly, it would be cheaper to get a 350 small block into that Miata than worry about the headers.
Just thinking out loud is all. If you're interested enough, the next time go to a car meet and ask a Miata owner, it's a quirky ice breaker
I don't think anyone's done it yet. 180 degree headers are commonly used on American V8s, like a 350 Chevy small block. The point of the headers is to even out and harmonize the firing order of the engine making it sound like a European V8 (Lambo, Ferrari, etc).
For reference:
Now, a V6 doesn't need this, because well, the firing order is already in sync. V4's don't need them (used mostly on bikes). V5's.... let's not go there.
So, what I would like to do to a four-banger, is do the reverse. There are a couple of ideas floating around, but no one wants to do it, because frankly, it would be cheaper to get a 350 small block into that Miata than worry about the headers.
Just thinking out loud is all. If you're interested enough, the next time go to a car meet and ask a Miata owner, it's a quirky ice breaker
Also de Tomaso Pantera's.Also famous for 180° headers are the GT40s.
Intakes really don't yield much horsepower unless you start messing with things around the manifold. I believe that 949racing states that an intake tube around 14-18 inches is the best design for a Miata. Really you need a standalone, headers, midpipe, and manifold with the randall intake or 14-18" Tube. Now you know why most people just go Turbo!
The 1.8 really responds well to a flat-top Eurospec/Japanese manifold. An increase of around 8 Horsepower, which on these cars is a lot on natural aspiration, can be found. Even more when you factor in a standalone. Above 150whp a Skunk2 throttle body can unlock a few more horses. To make a 160whp you need an intake, full exhaust, exhintake mod, NB1 head, standalone ECU, and the eurospec manifold. That's what Emilio from 949racing did on his 94(?) R-Package.
Going back, I read your mileage in well... miles. Thought it might've been time to rebuild or replace anyways.
If you're only looking for 180 I'm surprised you want to turbocharge it.
225 k's is nothing compared to what I've got on my s10... 458,000k on the motor, tranny, and body
I think it's fair to say... @LeadFootLiam when are you getting your V8??
An iron block V8 in these throws the balance way off. LSx is the best way, and there is no way you are doing that for $5k. Maybe twice that if you get used parts and do it yourself.
My 1990 with a stock motor, FM Voodoo kit at 12psi (at 5600ft elevation, lower elevation = less boost) made 195hp to the wheels. Consider a stock 1.6L makes all of 90hp to the wheels on a good day, that's a significant jump. The car ran a 14.00 @ 102mph at the track with a horrible 60-foot time. It was a 13 second car. Stock Mustang GT's were not a problem.
200hp is plenty.
Material used makes no difference in weight and balance. Weight is weight, doesn't matter where it comes from. A 302 stroker with an aluminum top end will weigh less than an LsX in the end if not being close to the same and it will be stronger due to a high nickel content. A 331/347 stroker with well matched parts will make at least 400 rwhp and can be done for about $5k give or take, and a motor with an aluminum top end will about roughly 390lbs; nearly 80lbs shed if not more as those are just estimates.An iron block V8 in these throws the balance way off. LSx is the best way, and there is no way you are doing that for $5k. Maybe twice that if you get used parts and do it yourself.
My 1990 with a stock motor, FM Voodoo kit at 12psi (at 5600ft elevation, lower elevation = less boost) made 195hp to the wheels. Consider a stock 1.6L makes all of 90hp to the wheels on a good day, that's a significant jump. The car ran a 14.00 @ 102mph at the track with a horrible 60-foot time. It was a 13 second car. Stock Mustang GT's were not a problem.
