Lion's Den Performance- New Autozam, Camaro RM
- Thread starter Paulie
- 916 comments
- 699,617 views
- 315
- WhiteHawk1889
Would this tune work on the M3 '04?
Rotary Junkie
Premium
- 9,810
- Canton, MI
- RJs_RX-7
- 7,711
- Indiana-USA
- OwensRacing
Implemented you GT500 NSX tune into my Takata Dome NSX.
It sorta a hybrid of your tune and things I like to have set up. However the meat is based on your tune. While my lap times did improve. My consistency become amazing close. Car drives very well.
Thank you for sharing.
It sorta a hybrid of your tune and things I like to have set up. However the meat is based on your tune. While my lap times did improve. My consistency become amazing close. Car drives very well.
Thank you for sharing.
- 5,677
- United Kingdom
- Dragonistic
Dependant on the gearing, turbo lag can become irrelevant (assuming the driver keeps it in the correct gear) similar story with off the line acceleration if 1st is long relative to the car then yes it will accelerate better off the line most likely.
I'm not saying the mid range is worse, but there's a lot which would need testing. I for one use the high RPM turbo as I like to rev the motor out and the mid range leaves much to be desired in the high range and overall across the RPM range appeared to give less push.
- 9,473
- QLD, Down Under
- GTP_Paulie
- Paulie LDP
You're welcome.
As soon as I update the gearing, my NSX will become even easier to drive, and probably a little bit faster.Exactly, they're two completely different cars, not even remotely similar.
You're right a car can always be made better, although I request you do a review of one of my tunes first before I'll tune a car for you.
- 46
- Bethesda, MD
- moon_knight24
- 9,473
- QLD, Down Under
- GTP_Paulie
- Paulie LDP
LDP-R GT500 NSX #9
(466+hp/348+kw @ 7,500rpm) (536+Nm/396+ft-lbs @ 6,000rpm) (1100kg) (588+PP)
Description: Our racing division is at it again, this time taking out the Japanese Super GT in their own NSX. The more balanced of the Super GT cars has good lateral grip but is a little more slippery on exit, and despite being a little down on power cracks out superb lap times. The setup we used is now made available to all privateer teams.
Base Model: Any Honda NSX GT500 Race Car
Parts to Purchase:
Tuning Shop:
Racing Tyres of your choosing
GT Auto:
Oil Change- If You Want Extra Power
Restore Body Rigidity (Where applicable)
Engine Overhaul (Where applicable)
Tuner's Notes:
Performance Points and power may vary depending on which version you purchased and if you did an oil change.
You can rev out to the full 8,000rpm no worries- but shifting shortly after redline may be advisable.
Tuned on Racing Hard tyres
Beware wheelspin, it is there if you're not careful and mid-engined race cars aren't particularly easy to control once sideways
I took the picture before I realised how to work the shutter speed properly
The tune works well for all the premium NSXs, but I can't be sure about the older standard models since I haven't got one.
Tuned with all aids off except ABS on 1.
Settings:
1) General Purpose Dry Weather Setup
_________________________________________
General Purpose Dry Weather Setup
Body/Chassis:
Ballast Amount (kg): 0
Ballast Position: 0
Aerodynamics: 40/65
Engine:
Power Limiter: 100%
Transmission:
1st: 2.745
2nd: 1.848
3rd: 1.420
4th: 1.134
5th: 0.946
6th: 0.803
Final: 3.920
Max Speed: 360km/hr
Please Note: You must set the "Max Speed" setting first before adjusting the ratios. If your ratios were previously adjusted, reset to default before inputting my settings.
Drivetrain: (front/rear)
Initial Torque: 0/8
Acceleration: 0/60
Deceleration: 0/15
Suspension: (front/rear)
Ride Height: -1/0
Spring Rates (kgf/mm): 11.8/12.5
Dampers Extension: 4/7
Dampers Compression: 2/4
Anti-Roll Bars: 6/4
Camber: 1.8/1.7
Toe: 0.00/+0.15
Brake Balance (front/rear): 5/5
I've finally put in the updated gear ratios, and I updated the Accel value of the LSD while I was at it. The specs are now off a lesser version than the Stealth model.
- 567
- aGrenadeShark
- aGrenadeShark
I wanted to give some feedback on a few of the tunes I have used. I have ran both the Predator edition 91 nsx and the NSX-R 02 extensively (500+ miles on each thus far).
My primary use for both vehicles is online racing. I found that I didn't prefer using RM models, so I basically just ran the 91 for a while without the RM.
I have also ran the NSX-R quite extensively online, but its a bit PP heavy compared to what you get out of it. To give an example, the 91 can be tuned to 425 hp with X pp and the same you would get out of the NSX-R is about 370. The TQ ratings are not far off either. This was with both cars weighing exactly the same.
I found the gearing on your RM tune for the 91 was about as perfect as it gets. I ended up taking the NSX-R tune and importing it into the 91 outside of the gear ratios and it improved the non RM version of the car immensely.
It's basically one of the fastest cars in every hopper I have been in. I pass the NSX-Rs in the 91 basically all day which leads me to believe it might have a sort of pp advantage. I joined a hopper having watching this same NSX-R 02 win the last race with a 14s lead over 2nd place with 12 people racing. The 91 was able to put an astonishing 18 seconds over him (5 laps, 2.5 min laps) and he still got 2nd.
Anyways, is there any way you guys can update the 91 nsx tune for online racing? The RM tune doesn't work without the RM installed and the NSX-R is too slow for my tastes. The current problem with the 91 is it is extremely easy to lose control of. The back end seems a bit stiff and constantly tries to run away. A perfect example is the last turn on high speed ring. Getting around that turn is like balancing an egg on your head while walking a tight rope while sitting through an earthquake.
Nurburring is another example. It's an exercise in futility. So many places where the car flat out hits a bump and loses itself. The corkscrew in laguna seca, if you take it on the inside, u instantly lose the back as well.
I think the 91 has immensely more potential then the NSX-R and people just haven't exploited it enough.
p.s. I have to inform you that there is probably some bias in my post although I don't actively do it. I own a 91 nsx in real life and its the only car I want to drive in game (online mode).
My primary use for both vehicles is online racing. I found that I didn't prefer using RM models, so I basically just ran the 91 for a while without the RM.
I have also ran the NSX-R quite extensively online, but its a bit PP heavy compared to what you get out of it. To give an example, the 91 can be tuned to 425 hp with X pp and the same you would get out of the NSX-R is about 370. The TQ ratings are not far off either. This was with both cars weighing exactly the same.
I found the gearing on your RM tune for the 91 was about as perfect as it gets. I ended up taking the NSX-R tune and importing it into the 91 outside of the gear ratios and it improved the non RM version of the car immensely.
It's basically one of the fastest cars in every hopper I have been in. I pass the NSX-Rs in the 91 basically all day which leads me to believe it might have a sort of pp advantage. I joined a hopper having watching this same NSX-R 02 win the last race with a 14s lead over 2nd place with 12 people racing. The 91 was able to put an astonishing 18 seconds over him (5 laps, 2.5 min laps) and he still got 2nd.
Anyways, is there any way you guys can update the 91 nsx tune for online racing? The RM tune doesn't work without the RM installed and the NSX-R is too slow for my tastes. The current problem with the 91 is it is extremely easy to lose control of. The back end seems a bit stiff and constantly tries to run away. A perfect example is the last turn on high speed ring. Getting around that turn is like balancing an egg on your head while walking a tight rope while sitting through an earthquake.
Nurburring is another example. It's an exercise in futility. So many places where the car flat out hits a bump and loses itself. The corkscrew in laguna seca, if you take it on the inside, u instantly lose the back as well.
I think the 91 has immensely more potential then the NSX-R and people just haven't exploited it enough.
p.s. I have to inform you that there is probably some bias in my post although I don't actively do it. I own a 91 nsx in real life and its the only car I want to drive in game (online mode).
- 567
- aGrenadeShark
- aGrenadeShark
- 46
- Bethesda, MD
- moon_knight24
Well, the car has gone 288.8 miles and its still at 407HP and it's asking me for an overhaul every three races. What could be the problem here?
- 414
- coolracer101
- blackberry pin 230e488c
I race an Yellowhat Tomica GTr 08 , can you make a set up for me ,thanks in advance
- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
/slap
Post #715
- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
1: Wrong Car
2: Wrong Parts
3: Wrong measurement of power (I see you're from P Rico, make sure your game isn't displaying KW or PS or some other form of measurement than Horse Power. If you were at 407kw, then you'd only be 13kw shy of the tunes displayed power, which can be explained by rebuild, oil changes and break in time.
- 46
- Bethesda, MD
- moon_knight24
The game is displaying measurements using the English System. But I know the difference between both. The car right now is @ 407HP or 303.5Kw. Ive ran it for 288 miles or 463.5KM so far. I did the tuning according to the setup, even bought all parts in the order shown. Maybe the car aint what its supposed to be. And during break in period it developed 30 or so HP. Im gonna leave the car alone.
- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
Ok, then follow these steps.
1: Are you positive you're using the right car? Tuscan Speed 6, not the 12 or whatever other models are available?
2: Ensure it's the right year. Some cars in the game have multiple years of the same car, of which can have different motors or maximum hp.
3: Racing Modification. Did you go to GT Auto and perform the Racing Modification?
4: Ensure all parts are installed. Just because you installed them once, doesn't mean they're still installed. Racing Modification removes some parts, you have to manually put them back on, so don't just assume they're on, you have to check.
5: You state you did the upgrades 'in the order shown' which can also be your problem. Based on my reading, many people claim that performing the 'Racing Modification' first, is required to hit the maximum HP. Whether this is true or not, I haven't verified, but it may be your problem. If you performed 'in order' as you say, re-read Step 4, because as stated doing racing modification removes some parts, so don't just assume you have all the parts on the car.
- 46
- Bethesda, MD
- moon_knight24
I have the one you buy from the New Car Dealership. Im gonna double check later to see if everything is installed after I performed the Race Mod on GT Auto. Ill let ya know.
- 9,473
- QLD, Down Under
- GTP_Paulie
- Paulie LDP
Racing Softs? Send me the car, I'll tune yours for you.
It came with the version of the game I bought.
As Adrenaline has already pointed, you're doing something wrong- you need to find what that is.
- 46
- Bethesda, MD
- moon_knight24
Double checked, I bought the TVR Tuscan Speed 6 '00 and some things DO were uninstalled such as the Sports Air Intake Manifold, Racing Air Filter, Sports ECU, the Sport Exhaust Header, the Sport Catalytic Converter and the titanium racing exhaust. Did the engine overhaul after the 288 miles it has run and the car is now @ 467 HP or 348.24KW and torque is @ 368ft-lb or 498.37Nm.
Nowhere near the 563hp/420kw, gonna run it some more to see if it gets to the promised land.
- 5,677
- United Kingdom
- Dragonistic
It won't gain 100bhp from running in it, end of. It sounds like you're missing the engine tuning (which can't be uninstalled once installed IIRC) head to the tuning section and try to buy the stages again and see how you get on.
- 414
- coolracer101
- blackberry pin 230e488c
I use your set up for GTnsx for my mobil 1 nsx but the gearing of the car is not the same as the newest ones , can you give me the correct gearing for my jgtc
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