Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[motoman617]

@motoman617 can you report back here and let us know how it works out ... I too have been waiting for a long while for Logitech to release stand-alone xbox rim (I own the PS/PC base)

Will do. Will probably be sometime Sunday before I can get to it. My Fanatec base is mounted on there now so I will have to change back to the Logitech and try it out.

I’m like you and have been waiting for an Xbox compatible wheel since I got the Logitech Pro PS5 so I can dump my Fanatec setup and just run the Logitech. If the Drivehub will work for now then I could use it till an Xbox wheel comes out ( if ever )

 

[Yes No]

I’ve got a Drivehub I bought about 4 years or so ago and used it briefly with my old one Fanatec setup. I have the Logitech Pro PS5 setup and have been waiting patiently for Logitech to bring out a Xbox compatible wheel so I can use my base on the Xbox. I will have to update my Drivehub and see it I can get my Logitech working with my Xbox. I am assuming I can just update my V2 Drivehub and make it work.

It works. I did it yesterday and worked great in dirt rally 2.0. Forza is unusable if you are using the DD11 base at the moment, but that might change soon.... But since you have the PS version of the base, I think it will work properly right now.

 

[Yes No]

@viperman3 it works. See my post above

 

[Squirrel_Muse]

I'm kind of surprised that GT7 still has such poor FFB strength with this wheelbase, I switched to a PC for ACC/AC/AMS in VR a few months ago thinking that PD would patch out the restrictions and I could explore some new content, just spent a few hours in GT7 and nope, it's weak af - like 11nm and full strength in-game and feels worse than base iRacing. Really odd. Upside is this wheel/pedal combo is working awesomely, and feels so good in the PC titles I'm playing. Just weird.

 

[Yes No]

@motoman617 @viperman3

Collective Mind released beta 9 yesterday... My wheel base, DD11 and the pc pro wheel now work perfect with Forza 8 and the other games I have tried on my series x.

You both should have no issues at all using the PS/PC or PC only versions of the G Pro.

 

[Yes No]

I'm kind of surprised that GT7 still has such poor FFB strength with this wheelbase, I switched to a PC for ACC/AC/AMS in VR a few months ago thinking that PD would patch out the restrictions and I could explore some new content, just spent a few hours in GT7 and nope, it's weak af - like 11nm and full strength in-game and feels worse than base iRacing. Really odd. Upside is this wheel/pedal combo is working awesomely, and feels so good in the PC titles I'm playing. Just weird.

PD puts a cap at around 7nn or maybe 8, can't remember, on the G Pro in GT7. No clue why they did that... The "safety" excuse seems like bs to me

 

[Squirrel_Muse]

Oh no I know, I just thought they'd roll it back now that they have stronger wheel bases approved and on the market with their blessing. Doesn't matter that much to me - GT7 isn't a big part of my racing day anymore but I feel bad for people who love the title as it seems super shady by PD. If safety is the issue then surely the Fanatec 15nm wheel is also restricted? (I bet it isn't).

 

[Yes No]

I don't believe that wheel is restricted but maybe it has something to do with trueforce? Is Fanatecs Full Force working in GT7?

 

[Squirrel_Muse]

I don't believe that wheel is restricted but maybe it has something to do with trueforce? Is Fanatecs Full Force working in GT7?

No I don't think the new API is supported by any title yet, but I also can't see how TF could be an issue personally, it adds detail not strength. No idea what PD is thinking seems daft.

 

[Yes No]

No I don't think the new API is supported by any title yet, but I also can't see how TF could be an issue personally, it adds detail not strength. No idea what PD is thinking seems daft.

I know it doesn't add strength, I'm just trying to think of any possible logical reason for the cap. I'm going to keep my opinion of it being a bs excuse until they either remove it or give a more detailed reason, saying it's a safety concern without any details just doesn't give me any reason to believe them.

 

[Squirrel_Muse]

Agreed 100%. I can't even understand the safety excuse, these wheel bases and setup are $1k+ - do they think the people buying them don't know what they do? Daft. It makes no sense.

 

[Yes No]

Agreed 100%. I can't even understand the safety excuse, these wheel bases and setup are $1k+ - do they think the people buying them don't know what they do? Daft. It makes no sense.

Yep exactly. Or why not just put a waiver agreement in game that states use at your own risk it to want to remove the cap... They can even go as far as requiring you to use enter your password just like you need to do to log into your account so people can't say they accidentally pressed ok or something.

 

[Tm667]

I know it doesn't add strength, I'm just trying to think of any possible logical reason for the cap. I'm going to keep my opinion of it being a bs excuse until they either remove it or give a more detailed reason, saying it's a safety concern without any details just doesn't give me any reason to believe them.

Well, I might had a taste of the reason behind the cap.

GT7 just bugged, and deliberately removed the cap (and Trueforce effects) from my G Pro.

As you can see in the picture, it was running at full power, but I can't say it has been a great experience.

The center oscillation while driving straight was crazy (as @LOGI_Rich wrote about the DD+), and I don't think I would use that kind of power in any case.

 

[Uros]

Well, I might had a taste of the reason behind the cap.

GT7 just bugged, and deliberately removed the cap (and Trueforce effects) from my G Pro.

As you can see in the picture, it was running at full power, but I can't say it has been a great experience.

The center oscillation while driving straight was crazy (as @LOGI_Rich wrote about the DD+), and I don't think I would use that kind of power in any case.

Are you using Logitech G pro mode or G923 mode on the wheel?

 

[Tm667]

Are you using Logitech G pro mode or G923 mode on the wheel?

I was using G Pro mode, but a few minutes later I tried the G923 compatibility mode.

And guess what? Full power (even adjustable) with Trueforce.

Same results: center oscillation out of control and wheel way too hard to turn.

Reducing strength helps a lot, it could be a viable workaround to squeeze more power from the G Pro on GT7.

I'll stick to the G Pro mode anyway, I feel just comfortable with that kind of torque.

 

[motoman617]

@motoman617 @viperman3

Collective Mind released beta 9 yesterday... My wheel base, DD11 and the pc pro wheel now work perfect with Forza 8 and the other games I have tried on my series x.

You both should have no issues at all using the PS/PC or PC only versions of the G Pro.

Thanks for the heads up. I updated to beta 10 this morning. Finally got my rig stripped of all the Fanatec gear and my G Pro setup again. Once I updated everything and verified the PS5 was working ok I then hooked the Drive Hub to my Xbox One X. Took a couple of tries ( reading the instructions again helped 😝) but I am happy to report I got it working in menus and games. Feels pretty good. Will play around with settings and get better at the proper buttons to use. Will give Forza 8 a workout later tonight and see.

Happy to have it working and will still be even happier if Logitech makes a Xbox compatible wheel available separately. I will still buy one as soon as it comes out. I don’t see why they don’t. They already make a Xbox wheel just put a wheel only in a box and sell it separately. Please…

 

[motoman617]

Is the cable that goes from the pedals to the wheel base just a standard usb-a to micro usb cable? When I was putting my rig back together today I must have rolled over the cable because the outside sheath on it is broken and I can see the inside wires. Still works for now but I would like to replace it.

 

[Podger]

Is the cable that goes from the pedals to the wheel base just a standard usb-a to micro usb cable? When I was putting my rig back together today I must have rolled over the cable because the outside sheath on it is broken and I can see the inside wires. Still works for now but I would like to replace it.

Yeah, it’s just a usb a to micro b cable, as you can just connect them to your PC.
The b end does have a specific shape for strain relief I guess, that would stop a lot of other cables from going in. You might have to use a sharp knife on the plastic to shape a new one slightly.

 

[Sturdy]

Well, that's my DriveHub ordered from Collective Minds, excited to finally have the TH8A and the Logi Pro working together on GT7

Will post back with how it goes once it arrives!

 

[Podger]

Well, that's my DriveHub ordered from Collective Minds, excited to finally have the TH8A and the Logi Pro working together on GT7

Will post back with how it goes once it arrives!

Did you use the discount code gtplanet10 ?

 

[Sturdy]

Did you use the discount code gtplanet10 ?

I did not... D'oh!

 

[Mateusz90]

I've sold the wheel almost half a year ago and PD still blocks the full potential omg. Still max 6,7 Nm. I will observe Fanatec, what are the reviews. I don't know where to spend my money

 

[Tm667]

I've sold the wheel almost half a year ago and PD still blocks the full potential omg. Still max 6,7 Nm. I will observe Fanatec, what are the reviews. I don't know where to spend my money

I tried yesterday the Interlagos race with the Red Bull X2019 Competition, and the max value on the wheel torque menu was 8 Nm, I guess that's the cap.

 

[Mateusz90]

I think on Le Mans cars it was max 6,7 Nm back then... And that was minimum that made fun for me. I am big guy with strong hands and need something stronger. The worst were road cars. The wheel felt like a toy. I know it is not Logitech's fault. I think I'll wait till GT8. There should also be PS5 Pro released November or December. Maybe it'll booster PSVR2, who knows. At the moment I have 700 hours playtime in GT7, 500 hours were made on Logitech's G Pro.

 

[Sturdy]

I am big guy with strong hands and need something stronger.

Mr Kieliszkowski? Big fan of yours!

 

[Tm667]

I think on Le Mans cars it was max 6,7 Nm back then... And that was minimum that made fun for me. I am big guy with strong hands and need something stronger. The worst were road cars. The wheel felt like a toy. I know it is not Logitech's fault. I think I'll wait till GT8. There should also be PS5 Pro released November or December. Maybe it'll booster PSVR2, who knows. At the moment I have 700 hours playtime in GT7, 500 hours were made on Logitech's G Pro.

I totally agree, it would be nice to have more torque when needed, especially on road cars that feel super light.

And I'm waiting for PS5 Pro for the same reason: GT7 on PSVR2 is awesome, but the lower resolution stresses my eyes even more than motion sickness. Can't play for more than 20 mins.

 

[Met Entso]

I can't understand this need for maximum torque. At the highest settings I can barely turn the wheel, it would be impossible to drive for more than a few laps, and much less to get any competitive time.

 

[Yes No]

Well, that's my DriveHub ordered from Collective Minds, excited to finally have the TH8A and the Logi Pro working together on GT7

Will post back with how it goes once it arrives!

I have the TH8S and it works quite well with the drivehub and the Pro wheel.

 

[hawkeyez]

I can't understand this need for maximum torque. At the highest settings I can barely turn the wheel, it would be impossible to drive for more than a few laps, and much less to get any competitive time.

Certain cars are heavier than others. Yes something like a Gr.3 corvette on racing soft on a twisty track can feel quite heavy, but then hop in the alpine A110 on comfort medium and you’ll have next to nothing for feedback. I’d like more torque just so I can have more feedback for the lighter feeling cars, and then run a separate profile with the strength turned down for heavier feeling cars. Surprisingly some cars with only sports soft on can get quit heavy.

I also noticed certain wheel settings make for a heavier wheel. Like if you crank up the dampener it’s going to be heavier than if you don’t have much dampener. I run mine fairly low because when it was at recommended the wheel just sort of felt dead and heavy and wasn’t quick with its FFB. In my opinion anyway. I don’t know exactly what that setting does but it definitely adds weight to the wheel the higher the setting. But at the cost of liveliness in the wheel.

We run a lot of vintage cars, lower pp, less grippy cars. So when I hop in a high pp car with racing soft, it takes me a lap to get used of the new much higher strength. PD should not limit the wheel, and just ever so slightly close the gap on the FFB strength between different tires. I say ever so slightly because I don’t want them to go too much and ruin it. Haha

 

[Sturdy]

I also noticed certain wheel settings make for a heavier wheel. Like if you crank up the dampener it’s going to be heavier than if you don’t have much dampener. I run mine fairly low because when it was at recommended the wheel just sort of felt dead and heavy and wasn’t quick with its FFB. In my opinion anyway. I don’t know exactly what that setting does but it definitely adds weight to the wheel the higher the setting. But at the cost of liveliness in the wheel.

This is very much what the dampener is for. There isn't really one fixed value for the dampener, it scales with the torque setting. A dampener of 35 - 40 on 11Nm is fine, but that much dampener at 5Nm is over the top.

If you think of the dampener as a level of resistance to movement, then logically it should be higher if the feedback torque (the wheel's movement) is higher.

If you have a high torque and very low dampener, the wheel will extremely rapidly rotate between positions in a very unrealistic way (because it's a poweful servo motor!), car steering systems (certainly hydraulic ones) do not instantaneously rotate from lock to lock, there is resistance to the movement, weight / inertia in the steering system etc. which dulls (dampens if you will) the feedback / forces trying to rotate it.

Personally having played around with the various settings, there's a certain 'feel' the damper gives that for me correlates with the way that the steering reacts in the cars I drive, so that's around where I set it, 5 - 10 ticks lower on the damper and it is a lot more reactive, it will self correct oversteer much quicker for example, but lower than that it feels like a robotic motor and not a car, if you go too high then it feels like you're fighting an artificially restricted wheel, or as if you have flat front tyres, so it's down to personal preference really!