Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel
- Thread starter timekiller001
- 5,122 comments
- 785,022 views
Sturdy
Premium
- 941
- England
- js427
I'm missing something in setting it up...
I have updated it to the latest firmware, plugged everything in before plugging it in to the PS5.
With everything powered on, the Drivehub shows the L G Pro and then TH8A on the screen, and the red LED then shows a 0 to show it's connected.
GT7 has no idea about any of this though, it simply sees the controller, doesn't think that a wheel is connected. If I press the PS button on the Logitech (or any button) it doesn't do anything.
The G Pro is in PS5 / Pro mode.
Am I missing something in the order I plug stuff in or something like that? I've tried disconecting the Drivehub and reconnecting it, get the same L G Pro and TH8a recognised, red 0 etc but nothing in game other than the controller working.
EDIT:
OK, sorted it.
I had the PS5 controller and the wheel plugged in to the G-Hub, which isn't necessary as the G Pro is a PS5 compatible device.
So now it's just G Pro plugged in to the 'Controller' port (and not the Controller/Wheel port) and the TH8A plugged in to the accessory port.
Interestingly, the Drivehub shows G 9 2 0 on the red screen when it detects the wheel, but GT7 sees it as a Logitech G Pro and TrueForce seems to be working.
The TH8A works as expected, clutch kicks work (it stays in the selected gear), you can pull it out in to neutral but not put it back in without the clutch etc.
Now to have some fun!
I have updated it to the latest firmware, plugged everything in before plugging it in to the PS5.
With everything powered on, the Drivehub shows the L G Pro and then TH8A on the screen, and the red LED then shows a 0 to show it's connected.
GT7 has no idea about any of this though, it simply sees the controller, doesn't think that a wheel is connected. If I press the PS button on the Logitech (or any button) it doesn't do anything.
The G Pro is in PS5 / Pro mode.
Am I missing something in the order I plug stuff in or something like that? I've tried disconecting the Drivehub and reconnecting it, get the same L G Pro and TH8a recognised, red 0 etc but nothing in game other than the controller working.
EDIT:
OK, sorted it.
I had the PS5 controller and the wheel plugged in to the G-Hub, which isn't necessary as the G Pro is a PS5 compatible device.
So now it's just G Pro plugged in to the 'Controller' port (and not the Controller/Wheel port) and the TH8A plugged in to the accessory port.
Interestingly, the Drivehub shows G 9 2 0 on the red screen when it detects the wheel, but GT7 sees it as a Logitech G Pro and TrueForce seems to be working.
The TH8A works as expected, clutch kicks work (it stays in the selected gear), you can pull it out in to neutral but not put it back in without the clutch etc.
Now to have some fun!
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Sturdy
Premium
- 941
- England
- js427
Some additional thoughts after a few hours last night.
Firstly, it all works well, I haven't touched GT7 for a good few weeks, so can't comment really on whether it feels like the feedback is influenced at all (I don't see why it would be, but thought it worth mentioning), the clutch pedal works as a clutch pedal should, you can clutch kick and so on, you can stall by dumping the clutch in gear with the brakes on, heel and toe works flawlessly.
You can't flat shift, but the threshold of how much you need to lift your foot off for it to allow you to shift is very small, it feels like any tiny lift of the throttle will allow it to go in to gear, it is far less fussy than previous GT games. In this situation it also behaves like a clutch, the revs are dragged back down as it goes in to the next gear.
Surprisingly, if you do flat shift it, or try to go in to reverse at speed, there is actually a gear grind noise, so you do actually get feedback that it's not gone in to gear which is new for GT7 as far as I am aware?
You can flat shift it if you bang it off the limiter a couple of times, so I think there is effectively a minimum shift time enforced if you don't lift your foot a little off the throttle.
The only slightly odd thing, whilst doing a longer race (20 laps of Bathurst, in VR) I had the "PS5 will turn off due to power saving settings" pop up three times, and had to press a button on the PS5 controller to dismiss it. Naturally I can adjust my timeout settings, but I've never had that pop up before whilst actively playing.
That's all that springs to mind. The manual / DriveHubNow website is all a bit out of date, it's all PS4 / Xbox focused, most documents don't mention the Logitech G Pro etc., which is all fine as I knew from this thread that it worked, but I suppose if it's at a beta stage currently perhaps that is why.
I'd be curious to know why the drivehub shows G 9 2 0 when the G Pro is plugged into the controller port (instead of the Controller / Wheel port), again perhaps just related to it being a Beta firmware currently.
Firstly, it all works well, I haven't touched GT7 for a good few weeks, so can't comment really on whether it feels like the feedback is influenced at all (I don't see why it would be, but thought it worth mentioning), the clutch pedal works as a clutch pedal should, you can clutch kick and so on, you can stall by dumping the clutch in gear with the brakes on, heel and toe works flawlessly.
You can't flat shift, but the threshold of how much you need to lift your foot off for it to allow you to shift is very small, it feels like any tiny lift of the throttle will allow it to go in to gear, it is far less fussy than previous GT games. In this situation it also behaves like a clutch, the revs are dragged back down as it goes in to the next gear.
Surprisingly, if you do flat shift it, or try to go in to reverse at speed, there is actually a gear grind noise, so you do actually get feedback that it's not gone in to gear which is new for GT7 as far as I am aware?
You can flat shift it if you bang it off the limiter a couple of times, so I think there is effectively a minimum shift time enforced if you don't lift your foot a little off the throttle.
The only slightly odd thing, whilst doing a longer race (20 laps of Bathurst, in VR) I had the "PS5 will turn off due to power saving settings" pop up three times, and had to press a button on the PS5 controller to dismiss it. Naturally I can adjust my timeout settings, but I've never had that pop up before whilst actively playing.
That's all that springs to mind. The manual / DriveHubNow website is all a bit out of date, it's all PS4 / Xbox focused, most documents don't mention the Logitech G Pro etc., which is all fine as I knew from this thread that it worked, but I suppose if it's at a beta stage currently perhaps that is why.
I'd be curious to know why the drivehub shows G 9 2 0 when the G Pro is plugged into the controller port (instead of the Controller / Wheel port), again perhaps just related to it being a Beta firmware currently.
- 1,344
- Canada
- the-1st-hawkeyez
Regarding the clutch. You must have an H pattern shifter. Because if you don’t, the clutch acts as simply a neutral switch. Project Cars 2, I push clutch in, it stays in gear but all I can do is rev the engine… great, working as it should. GT7, I push the clutch in, pop… into neutral. Want to get going again? Click it back into gear. I wish they’d fix this already.
- 941
- Germany
Its been a while since I tried using clutch in GT7. The problem I recall having with clutch implementation in GT7 is that once you're mistakenly in neutral, you can't just slide it back into an appropriate gear. You're forced to put it back into the exact gear it was last in. So for example, you do a quick shift from 4th to 5th and somehow you end up in neutral and lose speed. In a real car you'd press clutch and pop it into a lower gear to match the revs and get quickly back up to speed, but GT7 will force you to first go back to the gear you were last in (4th or 5th) and if you don't go back to that gear, it just ignores the inputs and keeps you in N. By that point, its game over. I found it maddening.
I'm on Logitech Pro Wheel and pedals with Logitech driving force H shifter.
Did PD Z remove the FFB cap with the latest update to GT7? I'm seeing the full 11nm FFB now.... But I also set the dampener way higher than I used to use, I think I have it at around 60 right now. Not sure if the increased dampener is why I'm getting the full FFB or if PD removed the cap. It definitely feels much better now!
- 1,344
- Canada
- the-1st-hawkeyez
Yeah it’s 100% not realistic. It does that with paddle shifters but a bit different. Clutch in, neutral, clutch out, neutral, do I downshift or upshift, click a paddle and it bogs or way over revs.
ALL I WANTED TO DO WAS PUSH THE CLUTCH IN MOMENTARILY! IT ISNT A SWITCH FOR CRYING OUT LOUD!
ProjectCars 2, push clutch in, still shows you’re in gear but now you’re coasting. All you have to do is let the clutch out again and continue on your way.
GT7 = 100% wrong
PC2 = 100% right
I don’t get why they don’t just fix that already? It’s like it’s baked into their game for some reason.
@Bojador
Before in GT7 i had often problems with the braking, it was difficult to brake with the right force. With the pro it is
so much better, much better feelings for braking. Loadcell braking is making a big improfment.
Yes, it is worth. I had a 923 and upgradet the pedals to the G pro ones. It is so much better now with the braking.Before in GT7 i had often problems with the braking, it was difficult to brake with the right force. With the pro it is
so much better, much better feelings for braking. Loadcell braking is making a big improfment.
As Podger said, you will need the adapter. It's currently $39.99 USD, here is a link to the Logitech page:
Logitech G Racing Adapter - Mix and Match Wheel & Pedals
Mix, match and upgrade your rig with a variety of Logitech G racing gear
You mentioned proper rig... Do you have any way to mount the pedals? These pedals have a load cell brake and take a good amount of force to use (up to 100kg). They will not work very good if you try to just use them on the floor without mounting them to something to keep them from moving.
They’ll work great if you’re at a desk with a wall to butt them up against - it’s why we made the back flat and routed the USB cable to the sides. Coupled with the softer elastomers, setting the brake force lower and making sure your chair is immobilised, it’s a great setup (that I use every day when I’m working).
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As Podger said, you will need the adapter. It's currently $39.99 USD, here is a link to the Logitech page:
Logitech G Racing Adapter - Mix and Match Wheel & Pedals
Mix, match and upgrade your rig with a variety of Logitech G racing gearwww.logitechg.com
You mentioned proper rig... Do you have any way to mount the pedals? These pedals have a load cell brake and take a good amount of force to use (up to 100kg). They will not work very good if you try to just use them on the floor without mounting them to something to keep them from moving.
I have the playseat challenge x logitech edition. But thanks for the warning.
- 6,521
- Shropshire
- IfAndOr
Try the discount code SHROUD, it should get the price lowered just a little.
I believe that others do use the Pro pedals with their Playseat Challenge rigs.
If I remember correctly @Abarth_71 recommended some additional bracing he'd used with his Fanatec gear when he had that rig.
Are you sure that's work? 😀
- 40
- PEI,Canada
- sparky69
Hi there Rich.
I was planning on ordering the Pro Wheel and Pedals on Monday, but noticed yesterday that the Pedals are now out of stock.
Do you have any guess as to how long it usually is before they get another batch? I can order the pedals from Amazon.ca but was hoping to get everything in one order. I'm getting the PS5 Wheel Base so I have to order that from Logitech.ca
Thanks in advance for any info.
EDIT - I actually just looked on the website and they now show as In Stock, so please disregard my question
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- 9
- Italy
Hello racers! I am booking for Forza Motorsport honest settings because between the ones recommended by Logitech and those of expert YouTubers, there are too many divergent parameters. I have also seen advice to set several parameters to 0, how is this possible? Has anyone found anything definitive? my G Pro is arriving any day now and I would like to set it up as best as possible right away. Thank you
- 9
- Italy
Hello racers! I am looking for Forza Motorsport honest settings because between the ones recommended by Logitech and those of expert YouTubers, there are too many divergent parameters. I have also seen advice to set several parameters to 0, how is this possible? Has anyone found anything definitive? my G Pro is arriving any day now and I would like to set it up as best as possible right away. Thank you
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- 1,746
- Aurora, CO
- Skills_19657
@LOGI_Rich are there softer inserts available? I tore tendons in my left ankle when I was younger and I raced last week using the pedals in stock form except for lowering the force needed to achieve 100% braking. I have been having pain ever since. I left foot brake using the G27 pedals and I have never experienced pain. I do realize the load cell will be harder but I am not sure I can find an acceptable combination.
Ideas?
Ideas?
- 6,521
- Shropshire
- IfAndOr
Torn tendons, sounds painful!
I think the brake is fitted with the red elastomer as standard. Swapping that out to the yellow one would make it slightly softer.
However maybe increasing the resistance - so you would have less pedal travel and thus less ankle flexing - then reducing the brake force further might also help?
Ideally you should be pressing the brake using your leg muscles and not really twisting your ankles much.
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