Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[RJ83]

This noise on the other hand is normal, this is not what you feel or hear during gameplay. I confirmed this noise on three units fresh out of the box.

I think i have the same issue as Bokspeed. I can't replicate the sound you got from pressing on the adapter either (the exposed part after removing the wheel). So it's 'only' the noise and minor tactile sensation when going either left or right at slow speed.

I am not sending it back if the next unit is likely to develop that as well. I will keep using it and might send it back nearing the end of the warranty..maybe they have solved it by then (of course i send it back sooner if it gets worse).

 

[bokspeed]

I think i have the same issue as Bokspeed. I can't replicate the sound you got from pressing on the adapter either (the exposed part after removing the wheel). So it's 'only' the noise and minor tactile sensation when going either left or right at slow speed.

I am not sending it back if the next unit is likely to develop that as well. I will keep using it and might send it back nearing the end of the warranty..maybe they have solved it by then (of course i send it back sooner if it gets worse).

My issue happens at any speed when turning the wheel left or right when the torque goes 2nm or above. It never use to do it, now it does without fail all of the time - and the noise is quite load with a definite tactile sensation in the wheel - which is very distracting. I also do not wear a headset so I can hear the noise constantly during every turn in a race or even moving the car left or right when driving in a straight line.

I am sure if this was a major issue, more people would be reporting this - so I am hopeful the replacement will be void of these issues! However, Logitech need to recognise / own this issue - if its a design flaw or quality control issue.

I will give Logitech a chance to resolve this issue for me, otherwise I may have to go Fanatec.

 

[RJ83]

My issue happens at any speed when turning the wheel left or right when the torque goes 2nm or above. It never use to do it, now it does without fail all of the time - and the noise is quite load with a definite tactile sensation in the wheel - which is very distracting. I also do not wear a headset so I can hear the noise constantly during every turn in a race or even moving the car left or right when driving in a straight line.

I am sure if this was a major issue, more people would be reporting this - so I am hopeful the replacement will be void of these issues! However, Logitech need to recognise / own this issue - if its a design flaw or quality control issue.

I will give Logitech a chance to resolve this issue for me, otherwise I may have to go Fanatec.

For me it is also always there, but i use headphones so i don't notice it anymore when more FF is involved at higher speeds. But i can understand it is very distracting if you dont use headphones.

Every brand has it's own issues though i think. I've heard the quick release fails quite often with the Fanatec DD wheel. Do keep us posted how the new wheel is when you receive it after a few weeks from now

 

[CustomX]

The mounting is not fully compatible. You need to drill additional holes if I remember correctly. Not sure about the screws, but most likely they're not attached. This was a big reason I picked Logitech edition. It's available on:

https://www.amazon.pl/Playseat-Trophy-Logitech-G-Edition/dp/B0BSTFS6W5/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=IZ7BPKQUGASY&keywords=playseat+trophy+logitech&qid=1681795949&sprefix=playseat+trophy+lo%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-1

Not sure why it's so expensive now. I paid ~2800zl for it 1 month ago.

I have the non-G edition, I didn't drill any extra holes and just bolted the wheel and pedals down with whatever bolt holes lined up. It has been absolutely fine like that on max torque for thousands of in game miles.

It doesn't come with hardware to mount the wheel. The pedals might have done? I honestly can't remember... They're a standard size, albeit quite short, so easy to pick up, I had some around at home already fortunately.

June 2023 update: I'm considering buying a Playseat Trophy. Seems to be conflicting information about whether and how the Logitech G edition differs from the standard Trophy kit. Can someone answer definitively please? Do I really need to spend 100 EUR more (600 instead of 500) for the G edition? Or is the only difference the grey and blue colourway? @LOGI_Rich ?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

The differences are as follows:

• Logitech Branding and colour
• M6 Bolts are included
• Pedal plate has all of the holes in the correct place in order to mount the Pro Pedals (although the standard version still has enough holes to mount the pedals satisfactorily)

 

[CustomX]

Thanks Rich!
Can you elaborate on the 3rd point please? Do you mean there's more adjustability due to the extra holes in the G version?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

If you look on the bottom of the pedals you'll see that there are six bolt holes for mounting. The Logitech G version of the Trophy has holes in the pedal plate for all of those bolt holes. The standard version does not, but the reality is that if you concentrate on securing the holes at the bottom of the pedals (i.e. the ones closest to you) then that will work fine.

 

[CustomX]

Cheers Rich.
What length size M6 bolts are required to fit the Pro Wheel to the Trophy?

One other question about the Trophy generally; is the seat cleanable? Wipeable?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

15mm long should be good. Any longer and you would just need to use washers to make sure the bolts aren't encroaching too far inside.

The seat is definitely wipeable.

 

[Mr Latte]

My main issue here is TF on wheel vs controller vibration and FFB Sesitivity in the game.

All other settings I can find the sweet-spot for because I understand them.

These, not so much.

We have a wheel that can save various user profiles and makes it easy to activate each.
From that, it's possible to apply different settings to help determine what the felt differences each profile offers are.

People's preferences will always differ but it does not help when you have some people stating FFB Sensitivity in the game
makes a difference when the game itself highlights this only for "wireless controllers". If this setting was for steering wheels, then why is it not available within the configuration screens for each type of wheel?




Additionally, we have had some early impressions/comments from users about how they feel L/R bumps in the wheel, yet the wheel itself does not have any motors at each side of the rim or any means to deliver positional vibrations into only one side of the wheel rim or only primarily one hand and not the other. So its clear that "impressions" or "perceptions" people sometimes have are not always going to be what others may agree with or seem accurate.


If users want to delve more into discovering more favorable settings for GT7 and specific cars then I would suggest a more controlled way to do an arrangement of tests/comparisons...

It would make sense for those interested/committed to this to make a new thread with fixed test conditions.
First though and if such an idea is considered it would be better to pre-discuss, possible options for...

1. Easily accessible car & track combo
2. Using a pre-chosen tyre
3. Decide on settings for 3 very different wheel profiles
4. Determine which profile from the 3 is most liked
5. Compare the preferred profile now with 3 very different pre-determined settings within the game
6. Discover what the combined favorite "wheel setting & game setting" is
7. Now compare the same car/track with different tyres

With so many variables what is needed is a better understanding of how/what....

A. The felt sensations from the game may vary based on the car/tyres/setup
B. How the output of these is changed/delivered from the game based on the settings also within the game
C. Deciding on wheel settings that work well for most people with liked game settings
D. Wheel settings (loading profiles) that help deliver more or improved feedback for variances in cars/tyres/setups

So guys, consider and determine agreed settings to use within any such test, then perform the tests and from that have a more directed discussion with the same baseline.




Too often, perhaps we fool ourselves sometimes in how changing something really may make much difference.
Or that we can be that accurate in assuming certain things. That's why having several owners give their own feedback on any such test would be possibly more beneficial to help determine what are enjoyed profile and or game settings to use for at least a specific car/track/tyre combo.

From that perhaps more would then be discovered in how different cars/setups may alter what the felt sensations are with the same wheel and game settings.




I think some form of fixed/agreed tests is a good idea but depends if others agree or would want to take part in something like that.
Just a suggestion...

 

[IfAndOr]

and I'm really worried about this out of the box problems....

I took mine out of its box in February and it's still working just fine. Hopefully that will continue to be the case. 🙂

Do I really need to spend 100 EUR more (600 instead of 500) for the G edition?

Yes that's odd, I looked at your pricing and it's quite a price difference. Strangely on Amazon UK the G edition is actually cheaper than the standard version! Perhaps inadvertently I've found the only benefit to come out of Brexit. 😄

 

[hawkeyez]

Additionally, we have had some early impressions/comments from users about how they feel L/R bumps in the wheel, yet the wheel itself does not have any motors at each side of the rim or any means to deliver positional vibrations into only one side of the wheel rim or only primarily one hand and not the other. So its clear that "impressions" or "perceptions" people sometimes have are not always going to be what others may agree with or seem accurate.

How does force feedback work? Tension and release no? If you run over a curb the motor is going to essentially jiggle the wheel quickly. Ive definitely felt that you can tell which side the curb is on through the wheel and wondered how this is even possible. My best guess is the wheel releases to the left and pulls (tension) to the right when running over right hand curbs, the opposite for left hand curbs.

Same goes for somebody colliding with me on the right or the left. Why can I tell, without paying attention to where they are, which side they bumped me on? I think Logitech did a lot of testing and messing around with how the wheel provides feedback and how we perceive it.

In a real vehicle, if you run over a highway noise strip with the right side, you don’t feel vibration on only one side of the wheel, it’s in the entire wheel. Through ”feel” you can definitely tell only your right tires are running on the noise strip pretty easily. I believe it’s the way the wheel vibrates and pulls. Tension and release.

Maybe it’s all in my head but I don’t feel it is. In fact I think if they did have a little motor in the wheel on each side and each side vibrated accordingly to whatever side the curb was on, that would feel foreign and weird.

 

[Mr Latte]

How does force feedback work? Tension and release no? If you run over a curb the motor is going to essentially jiggle the wheel quickly. Ive definitely felt that you can tell which side the curb is on through the wheel and wondered how this is even possible. My best guess is the wheel releases to the left and pulls (tension) to the right when running over right hand curbs, the opposite for left hand curbs.

Same goes for somebody colliding with me on the right or the left. Why can I tell, without paying attention to where they are, which side they bumped me on? I think Logitech did a lot of testing and messing around with how the wheel provides feedback and how we perceive it.

In a real vehicle, if you run over a highway noise strip with the right side, you don’t feel vibration on only one side of the wheel, it’s in the entire wheel. Through ”feel” you can definitely tell only your right tires are running on the noise strip pretty easily. I believe it’s the way the wheel vibrates and pulls. Tension and release.

Maybe it’s all in my head but I don’t feel it is. In fact I think if they did have a little motor in the wheel on each side and each side vibrated accordingly to whatever side the curb was on, that would feel foreign and weird.

I was not referring to FFB response/action that in certain scenarios may move/jolt the wheel as the wheel when set high is quite strong with this. Referring more to the vibrational response caused by vertical surges or suspension-based movements from L/R wheels can be far too tame and as vibration in the motor/stem cannot be directional.

Hoping one day an update for GT7 helps improve the strength of the vibration (Adult Mode) for this as even owners of other wheels talk about it. TF does help but having no individual control of each TF effect in GT7 and only a general volume means we are stuck with what we have and personally I feel this is one of the biggest let downs that this title does not make the most of what TF and the performance of the wheel can really offer.

 

[morfei1]

I took mine out of its box in February and it's still working just fine. Hopefully that will continue to be the case. 🙂

Arrived today. Finger crossed 🤞

18/09/2022 Logi OOBA inspected.

 

[Sturdy]

I took mine out of its box in February and it's still working just fine. Hopefully that will continue to be the case. 🙂


Yes that's odd, I looked at your pricing and it's quite a price difference. Strangely on Amazon UK the G edition is actually cheaper than the standard version! Perhaps inadvertently I've found the only benefit to come out of Brexit. 😄

For reference, I bought my (non-Logitech edition) Playseat trophy from Box for £399 delivered. The wheel / pedals bolt up to it fine and don't move at all.

Personally I'd say one would buy the Logitech G edition because you prefer how it looks, and that is worth the premium to you. I can't see any other reasonable justification for it. Unless sourcing a few 15mm M6 bolts is unreasonably time consuming / difficult I suppose, there's that.

 

[IfAndOr]

from Box for £399 delivered.

Now that's a good price! I might go and take a look, I have been considering one.
Although from all reports it seems like a really good, comfortable and nice looking rig, at those Amazon prices it does seem a little expensive for what is essentially some bits of bent metal.

Arrived today. Finger crossed 🤞

I hope all goes well. 👍
Any questions and there's usually someone on here who might have an answer.

 

[hawkeyez]

For reference, I bought my (non-Logitech edition) Playseat trophy from Box for £399 delivered. The wheel / pedals bolt up to it fine and don't move at all.

Personally I'd say one would buy the Logitech G edition because you prefer how it looks, and that is worth the premium to you. I can't see any other reasonable justification for it. Unless sourcing a few 15mm M6 bolts is unreasonably time consuming / difficult I suppose, there's that.

This really bugs me, the fact they can’t put an assortment of bolts in the packaging.

My brothers T300 went down, after I got my wheel, he came over with exactly that from his T300. A package with an assortment of different bolts and stuff supplied with his wheel.

But I guess everything adds up, just like how car manufacturers dont use some grade 8 bolts in certain places just to save 5 cents over hundreds of thousands of cars being built. It adds up really fast. I wouldn’t even care if they said geez this assortment of bolts costs us $5 per wheel, and then just tack that onto the price… saves me a trip.

If I go down to the local Canadian tire to grab some 15mm M6 bolts it’s probably going to cost me $5 if not more. If I go to the bolt supply (not open on weekends) it’s still going to cost me $5 because you can’t make transactions lower than $5.

 

[morfei1]

I don't know about the bolts, but they gave me free Sim Gloves that cost about 25-30euro. Also in the package, there were power plugs for allover the world 4 or 5 different types, which cost a lot more than 3-9 bolts.

I think it's not about the money, they don't put them on purpouse because mounting plates of different rigs are with different thikness. For table you don't need any bolts.

For example, my rig comes with every size of bolts you may want and much more than you need, and is probbaly one of the cheapest options on the internet.

I mounted the base, it's massive, it's heavy and it looks so nice. The steering wheel is amazing.... the PSU is big as brick

My poor G29 looks like a kid toy....

 

[hawkeyez]

I don't know about the bolts, but they gave me free Sim Gloves that cost about 25-30euro. Also in the package, there were power plugs for allover the world 4 or 5 different types, which cost a lot more than 3-9 bolts.

I think it's not about the money, they don't put them on purpouse because mounting plates of different rigs are with different thikness. For table you don't need any bolts.

For example, my rig comes with every size of bolts you may want and much more than you need, and is probbaly one of the cheapest options on the internet.

I mounted the base, it's massive, it's heavy and it looks so nice. The steering wheel is amazing.... the PSU is big as brick

My poor G29 looks like a kid toy....

That was the one thought I had, if you provide different length bolts for your customer I would make sure I use the right ones, but I’m sure a lot would just grab the longest ones without reading the manual and giver. So yeah, might be done on purpose. I got no gloves. Haha I wouldn’t wear them anyway.

 

[morfei1]

One question to the G Pro Wheel owners. Should I register the wheel on Logitech Website?

If yes which serial number I'm supposed to use, from the outer box or from the inner box. Both of them have different serial number🤔?

 

[morfei1]

If they put different type of bolts and you damage the wheel, you can blame them and claim warranty. If they put only the shortest bolts you can blame them, if your plate is thicker and you are not able to install the base.

So, they decided to not put bolts and blame them for that, which is less harmful than the previous two situations.

Fair enough, IMHO✌️

 

[IfAndOr]

Should I register the wheel on Logitech Website?

Do you know I don't think I registered mine! Perhaps I should do. You should still be covered by the warranty either way.

Yes the Pro is certainly larger and heavier than the G29. 🙂


Yes I agree, by not supplying the bolts they are not supplying the wrong ones for each situation. At least they supply a table clamp. That's an extra cost item with some wheels! It provides a rock solid mount to.

 

[morfei1]

Well, I tried the wheel this night in GT7.

All was set-uped according to Logitech defaults and recommendations. I did 10 laps on Nordschleife on 3 different Porsches I love to drive. Everything was perfect, but I did not felt the default 5mn so strong as if. While driving I also didn't felt the TrueForce as if, though I actualy don't know what TF is.🤗

I revisited the GT7 settings - vibration menu. The TF Audio was at 35 but all the rest of the settings were to OFF from my old G29. I put them to Strong ang jump in my Porsche RSR GT3 again on the Nordschleife....

What happend next was mind-blowing for me... I even can't express myself with words, so I'll put big 😁 here. Again, on stock and recommended settings from Logitech.

TrueForce is something you can live without but once you feel it....LOL it completely changed my perceptions of driving in GT7👏.

I was so excited driving different Porsches on the Nordschleife, that I completely forgot to try ACC, where I expect even more LOL effect for me.

I have experience only with G29 so far and long ago an DFGT in the GT5 times, and I don't compare it to them, but this thing is amazing for me. Driving with it is on another lvl.

Here, I'll put some pics from not so common combo Logitech G Pro Wheel + GT Omega Classic Wheel Stand. Waiting for the vertical support brackets to stiff it a little bit more, coz it's gonna be hard to keep the beast on full power, though most probably I'll never use something more than 5nm, which is already strong enough for me.



Have fun!✌️

 

[DogsSch]

We have a wheel that can save various user profiles and makes it easy to activate each.
From that, it's possible to apply different settings to help determine what the felt differences each profile offers are.

People's preferences will always differ but it does not help when you have some people stating FFB Sensitivity in the game
makes a difference when the game itself highlights this only for "wireless controllers". If this setting was for steering wheels, then why is it not available within the configuration screens for each type of wheel?




Additionally, we have had some early impressions/comments from users about how they feel L/R bumps in the wheel, yet the wheel itself does not have any motors at each side of the rim or any means to deliver positional vibrations into only one side of the wheel rim or only primarily one hand and not the other. So its clear that "impressions" or "perceptions" people sometimes have are not always going to be what others may agree with or seem accurate.


If users want to delve more into discovering more favorable settings for GT7 and specific cars then I would suggest a more controlled way to do an arrangement of tests/comparisons...

It would make sense for those interested/committed to this to make a new thread with fixed test conditions.
First though and if such an idea is considered it would be better to pre-discuss, possible options for...

1. Easily accessible car & track combo
2. Using a pre-chosen tyre
3. Decide on settings for 3 very different wheel profiles
4. Determine which profile from the 3 is most liked
5. Compare the preferred profile now with 3 very different pre-determined settings within the game
6. Discover what the combined favorite "wheel setting & game setting" is
7. Now compare the same car/track with different tyres

With so many variables what is needed is a better understanding of how/what....

A. The felt sensations from the game may vary based on the car/tyres/setup
B. How the output of these is changed/delivered from the game based on the settings also within the game
C. Deciding on wheel settings that work well for most people with liked game settings
D. Wheel settings (loading profiles) that help deliver more or improved feedback for variances in cars/tyres/setups

So guys, consider and determine agreed settings to use within any such test, then perform the tests and from that have a more directed discussion with the same baseline.




Too often, perhaps we fool ourselves sometimes in how changing something really may make much difference.
Or that we can be that accurate in assuming certain things. That's why having several owners give their own feedback on any such test would be possibly more beneficial to help determine what are enjoyed profile and or game settings to use for at least a specific car/track/tyre combo.

From that perhaps more would then be discovered in how different cars/setups may alter what the felt sensations are with the same wheel and game settings.




I think some form of fixed/agreed tests is a good idea but depends if others agree or would want to take part in something like that.
Just a suggestion...

I mostly agree what you said.

Although I really don’t desire such an in-depth test but rather an explanation about what FFB Sensitivity really does. That’s all. I really don’t feel like this is such a big deal from PD.

And FFB Sensitivity is clearly something that affects wheels. I’m not sure why you are posting a picture with controller steering sensitivity. That’s not what I am talking about. I meant the setting below the FFB Max Torque setting that you also posted a picture of.

I can sympathize with people who don’t take what the game says for granted though. Controller a vibration is something that heavily suggests it only affects the DualSense and it is also not present in wheel-related settings yet it has an effect on trueforce.

Overall I really don’t think that extensive testing should be undertaken by the community to document settings that can be easily cleared up by PD.

 

[hawkeyez]

I mostly agree what you said.

Although I really don’t desire such an in-depth test but rather an explanation about what FFB Sensitivity really does. That’s all. I really don’t feel like this is such a big deal from PD.

And FFB Sensitivity is clearly something that affects wheels. I’m not sure why you are posting a picture with controller steering sensitivity. That’s not what I am talking about. I meant the setting below the FFB Max Torque setting that you also posted a picture of.

I can sympathize with people who don’t take what the game says for granted though. Controller a vibration is something that heavily suggests it only affects the DualSense and it is also not present in wheel-related settings yet it has an effect on trueforce.

Overall I really don’t think that extensive testing should be undertaken by the community to document settings that can be easily cleared up by PD.

I don’t know if I have an explanation in detail what FFB sensitivity does but I’ve been running it on 10 this week as opposed to 2 and to me it just feels more active as well as stronger in the centre like more is happening when steering left or right in the 10 to 15 degrees range. Like it’s boosting more subtle things. I don’t find it over bearing or anything. Torque at 10 on the other hand is just too much for me, right now anyway. I plan on going back to where I had it at 2 to see what differences I notice. I seem to be catching slides at 10 maybe a little better than before.

 

[DogsSch]

I don’t know if I have an explanation in detail what FFB sensitivity does but I’ve been running it on 10 this week as opposed to 2 and to me it just feels more active as well as stronger in the centre like more is happening when steering left or right in the 10 to 15 degrees range. Like it’s boosting more subtle things. I don’t find it over bearing or anything. Torque at 10 on the other hand is just too much for me, right now anyway. I plan on going back to where I had it at 2 to see what differences I notice. I seem to be catching slides at 10 maybe a little better than before.

Thanks. I will experiment I guess but the last time I did (before the big update) I didn’t notice much.

I do 10 Torque and 11Nm. It’s a nice exercise on the Super Formula menu. Previously I didnt like it but now it feels more balanced and it doesn’t just put on 11Nm when I want to turn in a high speed corner. It’s like the dynamic range is better.

 

[hawkeyez]

Thanks. I will experiment I guess but the last time I did (before the big update) I didn’t notice much.

I do 10 Torque and 11Nm. It’s a nice exercise on the Super Formula menu. Previously I didnt like it but now it feels more balanced and it doesn’t just put on 11Nm when I want to turn in a high speed corner. It’s like the dynamic range is better.

I found 10 torque extremely strong, I wonder if it’s maybe masking the FFB sensitivity effects? I run torque on 6, bumped up from 5 recently.

 

[morfei1]

I mostly agree what you said.

Although I really don’t desire such an in-depth test but rather an explanation about what FFB Sensitivity really does. That’s all. I really don’t feel like this is such a big deal from PD.

And FFB Sensitivity is clearly something that affects wheels. I’m not sure why you are posting a picture with controller steering sensitivity. That’s not what I am talking about. I meant the setting below the FFB Max Torque setting that you also posted a picture of.

FFB Sensitivity

Overall I really don’t think that extensive testing should be undertaken by the community to document settings that can be easily cleared up by PD.

The short story about FFB Sensitivity for me is:
-If put to 1, the feel of wheel/base is more dampened and lazy, very good for slow drivers like me . I used to keep it on 1 for my G29 and I'm going to keep it also in 1 for the G Pro Wheel.
-If put to 10, the wheel is more responsive, sharp or direct if you want and less dampened. It expects fast reactions from the driver or you gonna spin or slide at best.
-if put at 5 you get the best and the worst from both "worlds"

At the end it's all about personal preference choice. Same as FFB strength, the Load cell preassure and so on and so on.

Hope it helps.

I found 10 torque extremely strong, I wonder if it’s maybe masking the FFB sensitivity effects? I run torque on 6, bumped up from 5

For me even 5nm is a little bit too much, but I'll give it a go and see if I'm going to get used to it.

 

[hawkeyez]

For me even 5nm is a little bit too much, but I'll give it a go and see if I'm going to get used to it.

I feel like I’ve been slowly dialling it up it I don’t think I could ever get to 10. Pretty much stock recommended settings but a bit more controller vibration and 6 torque, now 10 FFB sensitivity which I’m thinking I’ll dial down to 5,6 or 7.
when I first got the wheel it felt strong, but GT7 updated and it got weaker with the comfort and sports tires. So I bumped it up to my settings I mentioned.

 

[morfei1]

Yeap, deffinetely there is difference between different in-game tires and car classes and I think there should be, same as in real life.

We are not supposed to have the same FFB response from the base driving different cars with different tires around different tracks, and if the driver try to compensate this with stronger or weaker FFB it's very wrong, IMHO for the simulation. The FFB on Nordschleife is quite different than LeMans or Tokyo Express for example and it should be like that.

But at the end, it's a game and it's personal preference, so who cares have fun the way you like it.

Taking that into account from Logitech guide:

Because game settings are subjective, the following suggestions are to help you determine which settings may improve your game experience. Where relevant, we've included the wheel's settings display, as well as in-game settings. These settings all assume that your wheel is set to 11Nm of strength — you can set the dampener settings lower if you're running the wheel at a lower strength. Feel free to experiment with your own settings to personalize the wheel to your preference.

Dampener

A direct drive wheel can be incredibly responsive which might result in some titles feeling like the wheel is moving too rapidly in response to in-game effects. Adding Dampener will help alleviate this and can also help to recreate the sensations you get in a real car where all of the components that contribute to the feeling you get from the steering wheel (tires, suspension, and so on).

Ideally, you should set the dampener as low as possible in order to get the most response from the wheel. However, in some titles you will notice that if you let go of the wheel while on a straight it will quickly start oscillating left and right. Our recommendation is to make sure you keep hold of the wheel at all times when in use. If you do let go and the wheel starts oscillating, then pause the game title first before attempting to take hold of the wheel in order to prevent injury.

And that I'm using the base with 5nm, and I'm OK with that. I'll slowly go to lower the default recommended damper by about no more than half from 15 to about 7 in GT7 and see how it feels.