Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[morfei1]

GT7 settings can be found throughout this very thread.

Vibration: 35
Max FFB strength: 10
FFB sensitivity: 1

Wheel at 11Nm with TF Audio at 100.

I know it's a personal preference and there is no "the best settings", but can we take the same approach for ACC. I mean put the TF Audio on the base to 100% and regulate it's power from the in-game slider in the control menu?

Is it equal TF base 100%, in-game 25% to TF Base 25%, in-game 100% in terms of power and feeling actually the TF in your oppinion?

Which is more correct way of dealing with that in your opinion for ACC? I quess you have more experience with that than me.

BTW, yesterday I tried FFB Filter to Auto in GT7 and completely lost my my FFB, put that back to 8 and all was fine back to normal feeling. Looks like FFB Filter setup at Auto is OK for ACC on PS5.

 

[IfAndOr]

In ACC (on PS5) I have the game TF level high and then regulate the sensations, if needed, via the base settings. Some cars are "noisier" than others. For me I tend to find that is the best approach to settings that have a similar adjustable parameter on the base, games high, subdue on the base. Seems better to reduce levels rather than trying to increase something that's not there.

I have named profiles for various games and set them on the base, ACC being one of them. It makes it easy to tweak things without affecting other titles.

 

[Monkey Man]

Anyone have any idea why I can't get past the opening screen in G Hub on Windows 11?

I'm not a Windows guy and borrowed a laptop to update the base.

Tried rebooting and re-downloading the app but haven't a clue what to try next or if there's a menu hidden somewhere. Being a Mac guy I naturally expected there to be dropdown menus across the top of the screen.

Thank you!

 

[LOGI_Rich]

If it's stuck on the loading animation then this site details which processes to deal with.

 

[Monkey Man]

It gets past the animation. Sticks on the next stage, the screen with a feedback link IIRC. Nothing else to click on.

Thank you for the link Rich. Maybe it's just my "simple" mind that's accustomed to using ATARI then Mac for 30 years, but if I can get my head around the various parallel, multi-step instructions then I'll be a monkey's uncle. Oh wait, hang on...

Thank you again mate. Will return to having a look at this when my IQ has increased by, oh I don't know, 200 points?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Could you provide a screen grab of what that looks like? I'm struggling to think where that is in the install process!

 

[hawkeyez]

It gets past the animation. Sticks on the next stage, the screen with a feedback link IIRC. Nothing else to click on.

Thank you for the link Rich. Maybe it's just my "simple" mind that's accustomed to using ATARI then Mac for 30 years, but if I can get my head around the various parallel, multi-step instructions then I'll be a monkey's uncle. Oh wait, hang on...

Thank you again mate. Will return to having a look at this when my IQ has increased by, oh I don't know, 200 points?

Not sure why, and I’m on windows 10, when I installed G Hub it did not want to install. i had to keep redownloading it and finally it went and then it’d get stuck updating my wheel. I thought it was G Hub. Turns out my hard drive was going down. Got a new ssd for it for $50, G Hub installed without a hitch. Just thought I’d mention it because it kept getting stuck at certain screens and actually installing too. I should have known when it took my computer so long to boot up and actually be useable.

 

[thomasoeli]

I did that but no luck. I can assign everything but I can't assign the wheel.

On the track I can steer with it but with zero FFB.

Ass you can see there is no default preset for the wheel. It's not listed in the presets.🤔

@morfei1

Hi,

I have exactly the same problem. I have created a profile in Base for various games, including ACC (PC). When I open ACC, the steering wheel is not recognized, although it is present.

As in your screenshot, the already assigned keys are marked red.

I have to reassign virtually all keys, although the assignment is not changed!

Then the steering wheel also works normally. I do not have to change anything else.

By the way, I use the wheel in "G Pro" mode and not G923.

I only use the G923 mode in AMS2. By the way, I play all games on the PC, except GT7 of course.

I'm also surprised that the problems with the buttons only affects ACC. All other games work normally.

Greetings, Thomas

 

[CustomX]

On an unrelated note: I was cleaning my living room yesterday and when my head was near the G Pro Wheelbase I heard the fan going. I found this a bit strange. I hadn't used it for a few days. It's just sitting there plugged in, but turned off, as it does automatically 15 mins after use.

Is it normal that the fan is coming on (and maybe even staying on?!) while the wheel sits unused for days?

any thoughts on this one @LOGI_Rich ?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Sounds like the host is keeping the wheel from staying asleep. I forget: is it connected to a PC or console?

 

[CustomX]

PS5

 

[FPV MIC]

PS5

In rest mode by any chance?

I ask because the USB ports can still be powered in rest mode for charging of peripherals. If your PS5 is in rest mode then check your power saving settings.

Go to Settings > System > Power Saving, then go into Features Available in Rest Mode. Go into Supply Power to USB Ports and ensure either 'Off' or '3 Hours' is selected.

 

[CustomX]

nah I also suspected that but I'm pretty sure the PS5 was fully off at the time. Will need to test again to make sure

 

[Monkey Man]

Could you provide a screen grab of what that looks like? I'm struggling to think where that is in the install process!

It's not the installation process Rich; it's whilst trying to run the app.

As soon as the animation is over (didn't appear every time - maybe half the time), it's that screen, the one where the feedback link is provided.

I'll try to post the screen ASAP but it's gonna take some time as it's not my laptop.

Thank you for responding mate.

EDIT:
FWIMBW, there're no graphics on this screen; just text and that link I mentioned.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Yes, I just can't think of a screen that looks like that in G HUB, even during the initial install process. Did you grab G HUB from the main website or was it potentially one of the old versions doing the rounds in various parts of the 'net?

Oh, and is the laptop running Windows 10/11 or is it Windows 7/8?

 

[Mateusz90]

I would like to express my overall opinion about the gaming steering wheel industry. What led me to this? The fact that my TGT2 started making crunchy sounds from the engine after less than two months, and it started smelling like hot plastic from the casing. I previously had a Logitech which I really liked, but it had an issue with the fan. To avoid going through the RMA process and waiting, I decided to return it and buy the TGT2 right away so I could just start playing.

But getting to the point, the Logitech G Pro is presented as a premium product, it also has a premium price, and moreover, the external design and the quality of materials, in my opinion, are also premium. So now the question is, how is it possible that these issues are being reported, for example, here on the forum? When buying equipment at such a price, I expect it to simply work, not that I have to deal with RMA, returns, arranging for a courier, unpacking, packing, filling out forms with UPS, and so on. These are very inconvenient and time-consuming activities.

Given that I am an accountant, I can guess where the high price of the equipment comes from. Surely it includes high aggregated R&D costs accumulated over the years of working on the hardware. And that's all fine, understandable. But why compromise on quality control? I don't know the numbers, I don't know how many units are produced, etc., but honestly, as a consumer, an informed consumer, I would rather pay an extra 50 euros and be certain that the equipment I'm buying will be usable. I believe I'm not the only one, and people who know what they want and have the financial means also buy this equipment.

How is it that over the years I've bought various devices: washing machines, refrigerators, ovens, televisions, game consoles, etc., and these devices work, serve me for years, and don't break down? Why is it that in the case of racing wheels, there is such a damn problem with quality? I've already had three Thrustmaster T300RS wheels, and each one overheated after 10 minutes of gameplay. The TGT2 smelled like burnt plastic, and now the TGT2 has a crunchy engine, and the Logitech had a crunchy fan. What else haven't I tried? Fanatec? Based on the opinions I've seen online, it's frightening. Or maybe it's just me having bad luck?

Recently, my neighbor asked me which equipment I recommend because he also wants to play GT7 on the PS5. And what am I supposed to recommend to him?

Now I'm in a dilemma again, and I'll probably order another Logitech because Trueforce has impressed me.

 

[Monkey Man]

Yes, I just can't think of a screen that looks like that in G HUB, even during the initial install process. Did you grab G HUB from the main website or was it potentially one of the old versions doing the rounds in various parts of the 'net?

Oh, and is the laptop running Windows 10/11 or is it Windows 7/8?

As I said in the first post, Windows 11.

I got it from the Logitech US site 'cause I couldn't find it on the Aussie one.

Thank you Rich.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Very odd. I might need a photo of it - even if it’s just something you take on your phone of the screen!

 

[Monkey Man]

So now the question is, how is it possible that these issues are being reported, for example, here on the forum?

Do the maths mate.

Unless you know how many have been bought worldwide you can't assume the customers reporting here represent an unreasonable proportion of the user base.

 

[Monkey Man]

Very odd. I might need a photo of it - even if it’s just something you take on your phone of the screen!

I don't have a phone and have never owned a mobile device (or camera) brother. Old school.

I'll report back when I can organise to run it again; I'll take careful note of what the screen looks like.

Thank you again Rich.

 

[CustomX]

How is it that over the years I've bought various devices: washing machines, refrigerators, ovens, televisions, game consoles, etc., and these devices work, serve me for years, and don't break down?

becuase most of the devices listed are mature products, the engineering of which has been fine tuned and iterated upon over many decades. Consumer driving simulation hardware is in its infancy.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

I don't have a phone and have never owned a mobile device (or camera) brother. Old school.

I'll report back when I can organise to run it again; I'll take careful note of what the screen looks like.

Thank you again Rich.

The other option is to use the Print Screen key on the laptop (usually top right of the keyboard - often doubling as the Home button on laptops) or using the Snipping Tool function in Windows. Snipping Tool might be the most reliable option to activate and then you can paste the resulting screen shot into your reply on the laptop's browser.

 

[morfei1]

I did some tests in ACC on PS5, which is the worst case scenario from all the sims I play.

looks like the proper way to avoid clipping in ACC on PS5 (guess it will be the same for PC) is:

as a starting point:
-Base Strength - 11nm
-in-game Gain - 50%
-in-game Dynamic Damping - 100% (Rule of Thumb for DD Wheels in ACC)
= no clipping even in worst case scenario
-Base output about 5-5.5nm

-Base Strength - 5nm
-in-game Gain - 100%
-in-game Dynamic Damping - 100% (Rule of Thumb for a DD Wheel in ACC)
= lots of Clipping
= no clipping even in worst case scenario
-Base output about 4.5-5nm

Though in both scenarios, I have the same FFB Strength output about 5 - 5.5nm. Also note that, I've already decided that about 5nm is quite OK for me. You may like stronger wheel or you may like lighter wheel, it's a personal choice. There is no right settings in terms of strength.
Anyway, there are some rules of thumb how you achieve the desired strength and how you have to deal with the wheel oscillations related to the Dampener settings and there...

...ACC on PS5 deals really bad with the Damper (PC version is a hole different story and the Logitech Recommended Settings works pretty good for me so far). The PS5 ver. also lacks the dampener slider in-game control settings.

In my case, driving the Porsche 911 R II GT3 to avoid bad oscillations of the wheel in long straights, I had to raise the the wheel base damper settings to 70-75% to lower oscillations so i don't get killed by the Porsche on long straights if I raise my hands from the wheel. You can lower the oscillation effect but you can't completely get rid of it in ACC on PS5. With Damper at 75% I can take the whole straight of Paul Ricard at about max speed 276km/h at the end of it, without touching the wheel and no progressive oscillations that leads to an uncontrollable car and an end with epic spin.

I did try with damper at 100% in ACC on PS5. It's even better, but the wheel becomes to much heavy for my liking, though it does not change the max strength, I don't feel it natural. So, I keep it at 75% for now, and may try 80-85 and so on in the future. When I get used more with the wheel.

IMHO, it's a game problem for ACC on PS5 specific, but not wheel problem, because I don't have these problems on ACC on PC and other games I play, where the Logi recommended works very good so far.

I switch to auto FFB filter for the base in ACC on PS5. I really can't find any obvious difference compared it to the recommended from Logitech - 9 as far as I remember.... will keep it at Auto for now.

-Caster
-Dynamic Damper
-Damper
...will influence your wheel feel and how a car behaves on track and your approach to setup the car. So, if you try to make some test and setup your wheel base. Get stock aggressive setup, setup the tires pressures and go for a ride, but first make sure you setup your FFB strength correctly, your Dynamic Damping is at 100%, and your Damper is OK to your liking and the wheel does not oscillate like crazy.

For GT7 it's simple. I use the recommended Logitech Settings. It looks like setup FFB filter to Auto does not work at all in GT7, so I keep it at 8 as recommended.

It doesn't matter, if I'm going to use...

Base Strength - 5nm
In-game FF Max Torque - 5

...or....
Base Strength - 11nm
In-game FF Max Torque - 5

....the strength of the wheel is the same. For example with Porsche RSR GT3 with RS tires on the Nordscheife I feel no difference. Since, we actually do not have a proper in-game FFB bar to check, if it clips either way. I think the proper way to setup the wheel strength is to put the base at 100% and regulate it's power from your favorite sim menu to your liking. It doesn't matter if it's GT7, AC, ACC, rf2 or iRacing and so on and so forth.

At the end it's all subjective, and it's just my opinion. You may like it or not. You may agree it or not. You may feel slower or faster, it's all OK

I'm here just to share my personal experience with the wheel. Have fun!

 

[smeemi]

F1 23 out this week and no sign of an f1 wheel.

Thinking of selling and going fanatec now..

 

[CustomX]

A little gem for anyone in EUROPE who's considering a Playseat Trophy. Amazon Italy selling them at 30% discount at moment. Can be delivered to anywhere in Europe not only Italy. I'm in Germany. Mine arrived today. Delivery was about 15 EUR on top of the item price.

 

[whannel]

F1 23 out this week

Anyone able to confirm if they managed to get the wheel working for the full release yet? Xbox Series X specifically, need to work out when best to use the 5hr free trail... Noticing a few people still having issues with G923 over on the EA Answers forum too.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

You’ll need to unplug/replug the wheel whilst in the game to make it work at the moment.

 

[Abelardo]

@LOGI_Rich hello I just tried F1 2023 PS5 with the Pro Racing wheel. The steering wheel feels soft and does not offer any resistance. Even increasing the FFB values to the maximum in game and on the wheel it still feels soft. Any solution?

Thank you so much!

 

[LOGI_Rich]

We understand that the force level in the PS5 version will be addressed in the next patch.

 

[hawkeyez]

Another short update, Saturday my wheel starting “ticking” again while turning left and the odd time right. It’s just off center. It was ticking fairly consistently.

Quick released the wheel off the base, pushed the quick release in spun it until the “crunchiness” was at its least, popped the wheel back on and no more “ticking”.

I don’t know whether to see if I can exchange only the wheel or just live with it? I don’t want to trade one problem for another.

Anyway, should maybe suggest it to the tech design team there may be an issue with the quick release, it’s either the little ball bearings or the release spring. I suspect the release spring is digging in like there’s a burr on the end of the spring. If it came apart easily, I’d pop it off and fix the thing but I don’t really want to get into that.