Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

It’s for game specific information which is supposed to be customizable through the SDK?

That’s my guess at least. It’s coming soon™️ based on the manual.
 
To be clear, as said in the manual, the Dynamic setting is leaving us the option for potential future updates.

With regards to button support, that is down to the developers - the support is there in the SDK to enable them to use them if they wish. On PC it's more simple because of the more open nature of the platform - if a device has the buttons then you can reassign them in the control options of the game.
 
My warranty claim replacement wheel arrived. So far so good. I'm happy. It took about 30 days from when I initially reached out to Logitech about my issue, and when the new wheel was delivered. I had to ship the original wheel back to a warehouse in Poland (that's not a joke...). I was very skeptical about this as I was thinking the wheel would get lost during transit but it worked out fine.

This Pro wheel really is a lovely product when everything is working as they intended it. It is amazing with ACC.
 
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@LOGI_Rich

Hi,

do you know if it is possible to set a dead zone for the brake in GT7 for our Logitech pedals?

I have the problem that I always put my foot on the brake and so every now and then the pedal slightly kicked.

I know it from other games, but I can't find a way to set a small dead zone for the brake in GT7.

Or am I missing something?

Many greetings and have a nice weekend.

Thomas
 
Mine started ticking again. Seems to go about a week after turning the quick release collar. Seems petty to be bothered by that but why on earth is it doing that in the first place?
 
@LOGI_Rich

Hi,

do you know if it is possible to set a dead zone for the brake in GT7 for our Logitech pedals?

I have the problem that I always put my foot on the brake and so every now and then the pedal slightly kicked.

I know it from other games, but I can't find a way to set a small dead zone for the brake in GT7.

Or am I missing something?

Many greetings and have a nice weekend.

Thomas
In pedal calibration I thought you could set a range? I faintly remember seeing the indicator up from the bottom and wondered why you’d want that but the realized probably for that exact reason.
 
What are the best settings for Base & in game to use for ACC on PS5? Are the settings listed here https://support.logi.com/hc/en-gb/articles/8358055253271 still valid?

It will be my first time with ACC as I usually just stick to GT7 - but I want to compare the FFB, as I read ACC does this better.
I assume that these settings are still current. I only play ACC on the PC, but I assume that they are appropriate.

You will notice a difference. Personally, I think that the FFB is much better on the PC. I only played ACC briefly on the PS5 because I've been using it on the PC for years.

In pedal calibration I thought you could set a range? I faintly remember seeing the indicator up from the bottom and wondered why you’d want that but the realized probably for that exact reason.
Great, thank you! 👍This is exactly the setting I was looking for. 6% help me a lot here.

Have a nice weekend! 😎
 
@LOGI_Rich

Hi,

do you know if it is possible to set a dead zone for the brake in GT7 for our Logitech pedals?

I have the problem that I always put my foot on the brake and so every now and then the pedal slightly kicked.

I know it from other games, but I can't find a way to set a small dead zone for the brake in GT7.

Or am I missing something?

Many greetings and have a nice weekend.

Thomas
You can manage it on options > controllers.
Sellect your wheel and go on pedals calibration. Push the brake pedal until de value that you doesn’t want it to be working. For me, I set the minimum at 12,5% for the brake pedal.

Thus you can stay with your foot on the brake without action until you rich the 12,5%.


IMG_8639.JPG
 
Hi,

thank you, I have found and set the option.

The only thing that surprises me is that I have pressed my throttle pedal and calibrated it.

It now reacts much too sensitively. If I am at 100% throttle and only slightly take my foot off the gas, I only have 50% input. At this point, however, the pedal is still depressed by roughly 80%.

I still have to test and try something.
 
Rich said a few posts back that while they do have refurbished wheels they don't send them out as replacemens, you get a new one.

You have a recent build @bokspeed so that's probably why everything is up to date. 5.5Nm, being set at half the wheel's power, actually makes sense.

And hasn't there been an update to GT7 (if it's what you're playing) that has reduced feedback? You might have missed this while your wheel was away.
 
I’m contemplating seeing if I can send mine back but it seems petty it’s just a “tick” that I can make go away by turning the quick release collar. But ultimately it comes back after about a week of racing. The issue with me is, it’s a distinct feel and when it comes back, during driving, it’s all I can think about because it feels different than the FFB. I noticed when it starts to come back it’s under braking, it’ll tick, or a click feel. Very much like a micro switch feels. A distinct subtle but positive “click”. Once I feel that I know in a day or two it’s going to start doing it when simply turning Or racing around the track.

Any advice?
 
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Do you know which GT7 update has reduced the FFB
No sorry, I don't have GT7. But I've seen mention off it fairly recently on this thread which made me think that's what you might be experiencing. Of course I might be wrong. Hopefully someone might be able to assist further.
 
I noticed my wheel has also started to make noises that i can feel through the wheel. I don't know for how long the noise is there as i race with headphones and the sensation is very minor.
It happens only while riding, not when the wheel is off or the car is standing still. The noise happens when i turn the wheel past a certain point at about 30 degrees rotation either way.
But i wonder if sending it back is of any use if all wheels are (eventually) affected by this.
I wonder what is causing it.
I am running the wheel at about 2/3 torque since i bought it last november.

I do still love the wheel to bits though and i often can't feel it through the forces generated by the wheel.
The noise is also not as loud as the video makes it appear.



I wonder what Logitech would say about a drop or 2 of a light oil between the qr collar and outter wheel shaft (i mean, i can guess what they’d say but…). I would be very careful if you were to try this, and keep in mind that it could just gum up the works long term or give an excuse for warranty refusal. Assuming you can narrow the problem down to the qr collar and not something internally. But thats pretty annoying for their price point. Kinda wish i didnt order a week ago now though. Hopefully this isnt going to be super common.
 
I noticed my wheel has also started to make noises that i can feel through the wheel. I don't know for how long the noise is there as i race with headphones and the sensation is very minor.
It happens only while riding, not when the wheel is off or the car is standing still. The noise happens when i turn the wheel past a certain point at about 30 degrees rotation either way.
But i wonder if sending it back is of any use if all wheels are (eventually) affected by this.
I wonder what is causing it.
I am running the wheel at about 2/3 torque since i bought it last november.

I do still love the wheel to bits though and i often can't feel it through the forces generated by the wheel.
The noise is also not as loud as the video makes it appear.



I wonder what Logitech would say about a drop or 2 of a light oil between the qr collar and outter wheel shaft (i mean, i can guess what they’d say but…). I would be very careful if you were to try this, and keep in mind that it could just gum up the works long term or give an excuse for warranty refusal. Assuming you can narrow the problem down to the qr collar and not something internally. But thats pretty annoying for their price point. Kinda wish i didnt order a week ago now though. Hopefully this isnt going to be super common.
Hi,

It should be absolutely no problem for a direct drive wheel to use it at maximum power.

I also use it in GT7 at 11Nm and have the value 9 in-game depending on the car.

Everything else is too light for me.

In general, it is always recommended to set the base to 100% FFB and to regulate the FFB in the game.

Otherwise you limit the base.

I am a former Fanatec DD1 user and did the same there.

KR Thomas

Edit: By the way, I generally find that the FFB for the Logitech G Pro could be stronger. 11Nm felt stronger on the DD1 Base.

In my opinion, the FFB for our wheel should be strengthened.

It possibly gt7’s ffb implementation. Have you compared on other titles?. Pc or console?
 
Here is another video but one with a noise from the drive unit without the wheel attached - could this be linked to the grinding noise I experience when turning left or right when driving:


That definitely sounds internal, nothing to do with qr. likely debris in the electric motor, or possibly a bearing issue, depending what other junk they have attached to the shaft inside, maybe sensors magnet failure or whatever. I would deffs be talking to logi.
 
I enter this thread from time to time, and I still come across posts about faulty devices. I had that steering wheel in my basket, and I was just about to pay for it. Good thing I saved myself from potential future problems and didn't buy it again.
 
By that logic you should never buy anything.

As I said earlier, unless one knows the total number of units sold worldwide, one's not in a position to estimate reliability.
 
It possibly gt7’s ffb implementation. Have you compared on other titles?. Pc or console?
Hi,

Yes, it's definitely GT7. Other titles on the PC run very well in relation to the FFB.

But I have to say in the meantime that I am very satisfied with the FFB in GT7. That's why it works for me.

Thomas
 
Hi,

Yes, it's definitely GT7. Other titles on the PC run very well in relation to the FFB.

But I have to say in the meantime that I am very satisfied with the FFB in GT7. That's why it works for me.

Thomas
Yeah sounds like the last gt7 update nerfed the ffb. Hopefully theres a patch coming with the next update. Good it works for you though. Ive also heard from several reviewers that gt7’s ffb is noticably weaker than other titles, even with moza, fanatech ect.
 
@thomasoeli yeah hopefully they patch that with the next update, or improve in it.

Hey guys, weird question. Does anyone happen to have a screenshot of the free glove promo, preferably from the cdn site?. My order came in today 😁, but no glovies. And of course support is claiming to not know anything about it and asking for a screenshot. It was on preorder cuz the ps version was out of stock, and yes i bought wheel and pedals. Didn’t think i needed to screenshot it with Logitech. Should have known better.

Hey @LOGI_Rich, thanks for all your support in this forum helping everyone out. Amazing to see Logitech being active here.

I’d like to mount my wheel level on my stand. Do you forsee any issues if i get 2x 3/4 to 1” tall aluminum or whatever spacers to place under the back mounting holes when i screw into my stand?.
Im thinking they should be about the diameter of the rubber pad around the mounting hole’s with an m6 like hole in them for my mounting screws to go through. My concern would be introducing flex into the bottom plate of the wheel, or otherwise somehow undermining the integrity of the dd wheel motor. Or is it really important for the wheel base to be mounted flat on whatever surface?.

Cheers
Ryan
 
@Eegour The issue will be that the bolt heads will be engaging with the bottom of the wheel stand's plate at an angle. To be honest, I'm surprised that there's no angle adjustment for the wheel plate in the stand? They usually do have that level of adjustment - which stand is it?
 
@LOGI_Rich unfortunately this is the type im working with and wont be upgrading any time soon. It does have another hole to bring the main support arms down a bit, which would effectively give me my angle (might be too down). However the adjustment is more than i would like, and i would have to extend the wheel deck arms out quite a bit further. With the weight of the g-pro i fear would pull the stand over too easily. I’m less concerned about the bottom of the wheel stand plate, and likely with a fender washer or two would probably be fine. If i had to i could always grind or dremel a shorter spacer/ stand off to better match the underside. Also i race from the couch, so making a stabilizer out of square tubing to insert in the bottom of the stand isn’t an option as the back of the stand basically sits against the bottom frame of the couch.
 

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@Eegour The issue will be that the bolt heads will be engaging with the bottom of the wheel stand's plate at an angle. To be honest, I'm surprised that there's no angle adjustment for the wheel plate in the stand? They usually do have that level of adjustment - which stand is it?
disregard. I messed around with the stand again. The oher position for the main arms is waaayyy too low. But you were correct sir. There are slots on the front wheel deck, so am able to tilt the wheel deck down enough. The slots were just hiding behind the washers.

Cheers
Thanks for the quick reply
 
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