Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Right?. Was gonna go dd pro, it was a lot closer to my budget. But honestly after looking into it a bit more. Trying to filter through the Fanatec fan boy reviews, I actually started getting angry watching the bias in the reviews, skipping or ignoring features, comparing pedals for 1.5x the cost of g pro or more. But their reported track record, that damn hideous plastic wheel with bs qr, and whats with long exposed pins inside the qr, garbage!. Wasn’t even in the running. The Moza stuff looks interesting, but i need the console compatibility. On delivery, exactly the logi quality ive come to expect. I will say now that i’m racing mostly in vr, it would have been nice if the buttons were somehow a little more tactile, but ill memorize them in time.

Only knocks i can see so far (hopefully i dont get the click, no pun intended) the plastic base is large, though metal plate for what matters But i also understand that active cooling and a transducer have to go somewhere, and is definitely a plus. Also my Left Rotery switch is looser than the right, like the detents are softer so i knock it from time to time, but it works fine. The 4 way joystick is a little tall when palming the wheel, but nice to see it’s aluminum not plastic (no one mentioned that in the reviews. I’m nitpicking i know. Now if they just hurry up and get wheels, handbrake, shifter out there, we can stop hearing how logitech only has one wheel and no ecosystem 🙄
Any word on additional wheels anytime soon?
 
I have a chance of buying a logitech pro racing wheel and pedals from my cousins friend in England but I live in Canada I can get both for $1400 cad but was wondering if I would need a different power supply or just the north American plug to plug into the power supply I want to upgrade from my logitech G923
Thanks for any info
The ac power cord that plugs into the brick is the same as you’d find on most if not all pc power supplies. You might have 1 or 2 laying around your place already. If not, super cheap. Can order whatever length you want to avoid an extension cord or to simplify cable manaagement. This is a right angle one but you get the idea.
 

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Hello everyone!

I have recently found out that Logitech released this wheel, and I was thinking about getting one, because of the PlayStation 5 compatibility.
However, I have read about some issues with the wheel, like the ticking sound around the QR.

Is the ticking issue a common thing, or just happening on a few early production units? Are there any other issues with the wheel?

Also, those who had the wheel for a longer time, how would you rate it? (Compared to other DD wheels, if you have used any other.)
 
I haven't been reading this thread for a while. Just enjoying life etc.
I see that Logitech still haven't updated the recommended settings for GT7 on this page - https://support.logi.com/hc/en-gb/articles/8358055253271

TF Audio was recommended to be set at 100, as of the 1.31 GT7 update. But that was only mentioned in this thread, not at the link above.

Have there been any recent amendment or additional settings recommendations that I should be aware of? @LOGI_Rich
 
@sd456 The ticking noise is rare, despite what you've read here.

@CustomX To be honest I was waiting until later this year to update the recommended settings table, simply because we've got quite a few titles coming out between now and the end of the year, now that F1 23 has just released:

WRC 23
Test Drive Unlimited Solar Crown
The Crew Motorfest
Forza Motorsport
Exocross
Le Mans Ultimate
Rennsport

There's probably more that I'm forgetting, but I think the last time we had such a concentration of titles releasing close to each other was back in 2017 when we had Forza Motorsport 7, Project Cars 2 and GT Sport.
 
Ok. Your call! I would've thought its worth updating settings as games update. Anyone using the published GT7 settings (for example) would be getting a suboptimal experience for a few months now.

Are there any further GT7 recommendation changes other than adjustign TF Audio upwards to 100?
 
Is the ticking issue a common thing, or just happening on a few early production units? Are there any other issues with the wheel?

Also, those who had the wheel for a longer time, how would you rate it? (Compared to other DD wheels, if you have used any other.)
Mine has been in use since February without problems. I occasionally get "the tick", it doesn't bother me at all. As Rich says I think you might see more mention of it than it deserves.

I haven't had any other DD wheels but the responsiveness and power of the G Pro has impressed me. The extra details felt though the wheel from the immersive elements of Trueforce are something you won't get on other wheels, so that's something to consider when comparing.
 
Mine has been in use since February without problems. I occasionally get "the tick", it doesn't bother me at all. As Rich says I think you might see more mention of it than it deserves.

I haven't had any other DD wheels but the responsiveness and power of the G Pro has impressed me. The extra details felt though the wheel from the immersive elements of Trueforce are something you won't get on other wheels, so that's something to consider when comparing.
Wheel is awesome. The tick is not but I’m convinced it’s the spring in the quick release. It did it again to me, popped the wheel off, only turned the spring inside the quick release put it back on, no tick. But now it’s back again after a night of racing. It seems the more I’m chopping at the wheel in looser handling cars the more quickly it comes back or if I’m quickly countersteering a lot.
 
The ac power cord that plugs into the brick is the same as you’d find on most if not all pc power supplies. You might have 1 or 2 laying around your place already. If not, super cheap. Can order whatever length you want to avoid an extension cord or to simplify cable manaagement. This is a right angle one but you get the idea.
Thank you
 
Wheel is awesome. The tick is not but I’m convinced it’s the spring in the quick release. It did it again to me, popped the wheel off, only turned the spring inside the quick release put it back on, no tick. But now it’s back again after a night of racing. It seems the more I’m chopping at the wheel in looser handling cars the more quickly it comes back or if I’m quickly countersteering a lot.
exacte the same behaviour with mine! Spot on.
 
I've just noticed the latest patch for ACC on console (PS5 at least) has introduced native support for the G Pro. No need to use G923 compatibly now. There's even the frequency option available. I've left this at 400Hz @LOGI_Rich. Sound correct? Feels good anyway.
 
Somebody here with a Logitech PRO RACING WHEEL and playing F1 2023? Mind sharing your settings on the wheel and in-game FFB? I used some settings from the Logitech website from 22 but I’m guessing the settings for 23 could be different. I’m playing on PC btw.
 
I have a chance of buying a logitech pro racing wheel and pedals from my cousins friend in England but I live in Canada I can get both for $1400 cad but was wondering if I would need a different power supply or just the north American plug to plug into the power supply I want to upgrade from my logitech G923
Thanks for any info
My wheel base came with about 5-6 different power cords for all around the world. So , if your cousin put all in the bag you should be fine.
 
Somebody here with a Logitech PRO RACING WHEEL and playing F1 2023? Mind sharing your settings on the wheel and in-game FFB? I used some settings from the Logitech website from 22 but I’m guessing the settings for 23 could be different. I’m playing on PC btw.
22 and 23 both support Trueforce on PC, so the recommendation for 23 probably won't change much when we do publish it. Possibly reduce the Dampener on the OLED if you want a bit more response from the wheel.
 
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$200 cheaper than the g-pro setup. likely better pedals than the g-pro already, but for an extra $100 you can get the CS V3s which are god tier. as a bonus, this setup is PC+PS+XB compatible, and much higher build quality if my previous experience with both brands is anything to go on.

Funny, I had this exact setup and am now switching, since Fanatec refuses to help a 15+ year customer (me) repair a broken pedal port on the back of their wheel base for free. I'm 2 months out of the 1 year warranty. I'm done with Fanatec and am eagerly awaiting my Logitech Pro, which I ordered 2 days ago. Quality, customer service and in-country distribution will always trump price in my experience.
 
Funny, I had this exact setup and am now switching, since Fanatec refuses to help a 15+ year customer (me) repair a broken pedal port on the back of their wheel base for free. I'm 2 months out of the 1 year warranty. I'm done with Fanatec and am eagerly awaiting my Logitech Pro, which I ordered 2 days ago. Quality, customer service and in-country distribution will always trump price in my experience.
Welcome to the dark side.

I’d love to hear your feedback/ comparison when it arrives, good or bad. Really enjoying mine!
 
Welcome to the dark side.

I’d love to hear your feedback/ comparison when it arrives, good or bad. Really enjoying mine!
I will absolutely do that. I've posted about the last straw with Fanatec on several reddit threads (example) so you can quickly get a read on my current headspace with my decision.

In summary, Fanatec has grown very mediocre over the past couple years. This doesn't bother me, but their attitude makes me think that they believe they're top dog. I'm nearly 50 and dealing with companies that get too big for their britches are not who I like to do business with (if there are other options).
 
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Hello, i have a problem with the joystick to the left of the wheel, below the L2 button. When I press it down, it often registers 2 clicks instead of one. Is there anything that I could do to fix this, not voiding the warrant. Like using an air spray if there would be some dust there or someting else?

Or sending the wheel would be my only option? It's a bit annoying when using the menus but not a problem when racing.

Sounds like a bad microswitch, having intermittent contact when pressed. I'm afraid a warranty repair is due, or RMA if you're still in 30 days return window. Try to reach the Logi support to see what your options are.

I just solved it! Today it got much worse, almost not working, I had to press it so hard, and then it would jump 2 or 3 clicks. Didn't feel happy about sending the wheel and not playing for weeks, so I tried using this:

41911__150ml_sGBfEKu.jpg

It's an oil lubricant. Just a little in the opening where the joystick connects to the wheel and now it works perfectly.

Leaving it here just in case someone has the same problem.
 
I just solved it! Today it got much worse, almost not working, I had to press it so hard, and then it would jump 2 or 3 clicks. Didn't feel happy about sending the wheel and not playing for weeks, so I tried using this:

41911__150ml_sGBfEKu.jpg

It's an oil lubricant. Just a little in the opening where the joystick connects to the wheel and now it works perfectly.

Leaving it here just in case someone has the same problem.
There’s contact cleaner that’s lubricated that might be safer? But I guess if it works it works. Haha
 
Mine has been in use since February without problems. I occasionally get "the tick", it doesn't bother me at all. As Rich says I think you might see more mention of it than it deserves.

I haven't had any other DD wheels but the responsiveness and power of the G Pro has impressed me. The extra details felt though the wheel from the immersive elements of Trueforce are something you won't get on other wheels, so that's something to consider when comparing.
Thanks for the reply. I have just ordered mine with the pedals. Also, it is super great that there was a student discount available.
 
Also, it is super great that there was a student discount available.
Yes, that's quite a decent discount. Unfortunately I couldn't make use of it, I'm a bit beyond normal student age. 🙂

I hope all goes well with your new gear, I'm sure you'll enjoy using it. 👍
 
Probably yes! This is the kind of stuff I was looking for when I asked, but yeah the 6in1 worked perfectly, so far!
I’ve got a can of MG Chemicals, NuTrol Control Contact Cleaner but it has a lubricant in it.

I bought the small spray can from a small electronics store here for like $45 many years ago. I felt like it was a rip off at the time, but I still have some left even after like ten years. I just bought a surround receiver for my rig I’m building and the volume pot was jumping, two shots of that stuff and a spin, boom just like new. It’s good stuff!!!
 
Probably yes! This is the kind of stuff I was looking for when I asked, but yeah the 6in1 worked perfectly, so far!
Id caution you with using oil in this case. It will attract dust and eventually gum up the microswitch underneath, if the oil doesn’t end up in the microswitch causing a complete failure. #warrantydenial. Also keep in mind that there is a circuit board under there, and being part of a steering wheel that gets turned in every direction as well as vibrations from trueforce. The oil will spread out over time.
For the qr click, if you can isolate it to the qr, a drop of oil may help, if away from any circuitry or entry points. I may try that if it came up with mine. But i think in your case hawkeyez has the right idea, though will cost more than you’d want and likely difficult to locate. Just my 2c, good luck, happy racing
 
Anyone able to confirm if they managed to get the wheel working for the full release yet? Xbox Series X specifically, need to work out when best to use the 5hr free trail... Noticing a few people still having issues with G923 over on the EA Answers forum too.

You’ll need to unplug/replug the wheel whilst in the game to make it work at the moment.
Still struggling with it in F1 23, just drops out the ffb at random/clunks about a bit if anyone can duplicate this on Series X?
 
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