Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

The other option is to use the Print Screen key on the laptop (usually top right of the keyboard - often doubling as the Home button on laptops) or using the Snipping Tool function in Windows. Snipping Tool might be the most reliable option to activate and then you can paste the resulting screen shot into your reply on the laptop's browser.
Thank you Rich.

I'll have to use a USB stick to transfer the pic to my Mac 'cause it's not my computer.

You'll be the first to know when I'm successful and thank you again mate.
 
I am stupid and for that reason i can't figure put right settings for g pro wheel/pedals on gt7. Latest update on gt7 what is right order to start wheel and gt7? First wheel then game?

What is roght settings to start fine tuning with own preferences, i have read this 55 page trough now few times and there is so much variance on all. Logitevh recommended settings table shows values for game and wheel and also that table is meant to use so that wherl has max 11nm torque in use.

Is that table wheel settings and game settings in small pictures all that i need to set?

thank you if someone is willing to tell it, i don't know what is wrong my brain to not figure it out even after several read troughs on this thread.
 
You can now start the wheel first and then the game with no issue. GT7 will set its own settings on startup, so it's best to set those where you want them - any change on the wheel then acts as a gain within whatever you've set on the game.

So, as mentioned a couple of pages ago:

GT7 settings
Vibration: 35
Max FFB strength: 10
FFB sensitivity: 1

Wheel settings
Strength at 11Nm (or TF Torque at 100 if you're still running launch firmware)
TF Audio at 100
 
I don't know about those settings Rich.

In-game FFB strength at 10 and the wheelbase at 11 would give you roughly 10.1nm of torque, which IMHO is waaay too much for the average driver.

Personally I've found that in-game 7 and 10 on the wheelbase, which theoretically provides 7nm max, is a solid sweet spot.

I like 10 on the base 'cause that way the in-game strength is effectively in nm.
 
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Not at the moment, because Polyphony have reduced the force output. You'll max out at around 6Nm when you enter a corner with the settings I mentioned at the moment. That might still be too much for some, but then just reduce the max FFB strength in GT7's settings.
 
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Woah... really?

Thank you for that Brother Rich. I had no idea as I haven't driven much lately.

Hopefully my suggestion will help someone when the nerf is removed.
 
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Not at the moment, because Polyphony have reduced the force output. You'll max out at around 6Nm when you enter a corner with the settings I mentioned at the moment. That might still be too much for some, but then just reduce the max FFB strength in GT7's settings.
I’m guessing that’s on racing soft tires? Grab the alpha sprint on comfort mediums and you’ll be about a third of that easily.

I’m weak lol, torque 6 and wheel 11. Race car with racing tires those settings are about perfect for me.
 
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For anyone considering buying the Playseat Trophy seat, I found this article useful for set-up, and in particular this image re: mounting the Pro pedals to the standard black Trophy edition. Left image shows the 3 pre-drilled holes (circled in red) that you can use, and also a useful comparison image showing the G Edition base pedal plate with 3 extra holes at the front end of the plate.

Super happy with the Trophy. Didn't enjoy assembling it though.

Hope this helps someone.

Question for other Trophy users; what brake % setting are you using, and which brake pedal elastomer combination? I'm about 75kg, 5'11. Reasonably strong and fit.


Playseat Trophy pedal mount plate holes.JPG
 
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You can now start the wheel first and then the game with no issue. GT7 will set its own settings on startup, so it's best to set those where you want them - any change on the wheel then acts as a gain within whatever you've set on the game.

So, as mentioned a couple of pages ago:

GT7 settings
Vibration: 35
Max FFB strength: 10
FFB sensitivity: 1

Wheel settings
Strength at 11Nm (or TF Torque at 100 if you're still running launch firmware)
TF Audio at 100

Thank you

I need to test these now. Hope you get paid enough on your job, you are the one to answer lot of questions here for logitech problems. You are really doing great support for logi products.
 
Question for other Trophy users; what brake % setting are you using, and which brake pedal elastomer combination? I'm about 75kg, 5'11. Reasonably strong and fit.
I use 45kg for the load cell weight. I started with it around 30kg as I wasn't used to a load cell, but have upped it over time as I sort of prefer the firmer feel as I've become more used to it.

I'm pretty sure I am using the two harder elastomers (I forget the colours...) but with the softer foam insert. I preferred the initial squish that gave the pedal because it felt more familiar to me compared to my real life cars.
 
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You can now start the wheel first and then the game with no issue. GT7 will set its own settings on startup, so it's best to set those where you want them - any change on the wheel then acts as a gain within whatever you've set on the game.

So, as mentioned a couple of pages ago:

GT7 settings
Vibration: 35
Max FFB strength: 10
FFB sensitivity: 1

Wheel settings
Strength at 11Nm (or TF Torque at 100 if you're still running launch firmware)
TF Audio at 100
Good to know, though I'm OK with the settings and I'm not going to change anything. Thanks
 
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I don't know about those settings Rich.

In-game FFB strength at 10 and the wheelbase at 11 would give you roughly 10.1nm of torque, which IMHO is waaay too much for the average driver.

Personally I've found that in-game 7 and 10 on the wheelbase, which theoretically provides 7nm max, is a solid sweet spot.

I like 10 on the base 'cause that way the in-game strength is effectively in nm.
Agree, I'm currently at the default Logitech recommended

Base 100
in-game FFB - 5
in-game Sens - 1
The base produce about 3 to 5nm, and 5nm is at it's peak

What bothers me after the last race in my Porsche 09 GT3 on Tokyo Express last night is the wheel oscillations at high speed and the wheel feels a little bit to light on road car with SM tires for my liking. With the recommended Dampener at 15, I will go higher so the wheel will be more tight or maybe using in-game FFB toque at 6 or 7

Deffinitely not wheel problem and it's a matter of personal preferences.
 
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Hi, I read this on a reddit post: "Set the display at the wheel base to show torque, it will give you a live reading as you play"
How do you do this so that the steering wheel display shows you the torque?
 
Hi, I read this on a reddit post: "Set the display at the wheel base to show torque, it will give you a live reading as you play"
How do you do this so that the steering wheel display shows you the torque?
From the manual:

Home Screen
You can use the options here to change what is shown
on the Settings display when not adjusting the settings
of the wheel or pedals The Settings display on your
PRO Wheel has four modes of display
1 Dynamic
2 Test
3 Profile
4 Torque

Dynamic
Supports potential future updates to the screen
functionality Defaults to the Test function

Test
By default when you turn your wheel on and there is
no racing game title running, the display will be
showing the Test screen On this screen, you can
move the wheel, the dual clutch paddles and press
the pedals of a compatible pedal set (if attached)
to see the axis response

Profile
Displays which profile you currently have the wheel
set to

Torque
Displays the live and average torque output of
the wheel
 
Del manual:

Pantalla de inicio
Puede usar las opciones aquí para cambiar lo que se muestra
en la pantalla de configuración cuando no se está ajustando la configuración
del volante o de los pedales La pantalla Ajustes de su
PRO Wheel tiene cuatro modos de visualización
1 dinámico
2 prueba
3 perfil
4 par

Dinámica
Admite posibles actualizaciones futuras de la pantalla
funcionalidad Predeterminada a la función de prueba

Prueba
De forma predeterminada, cuando enciende el volante y hay
no se está ejecutando ningún título de juego de carreras, la pantalla será
mostrando la pantalla de prueba En esta pantalla, puede
mover el volante, las levas del doble embrague y pulsar
los pedales de un juego de pedales compatible (si está instalado)
para ver la respuesta del eje

Perfil
Muestra qué perfil tiene actualmente la rueda
ajustado a

Esfuerzo de torsión
Muestra la salida de par en vivo y promedio de
la rueda
Thankss!!
 
You can now start the wheel first and then the game with no issue. GT7 will set its own settings on startup, so it's best to set those where you want them - any change on the wheel then acts as a gain within whatever you've set on the game.

So, as mentioned a couple of pages ago:

GT7 settings
Vibration: 35
Max FFB strength: 10
FFB sensitivity: 1

Wheel settings
Strength at 11Nm (or TF Torque at 100 if you're still running launch firmware)
TF Audio at 100
What about dampener and filter setting on the wheel ? Whats the recommended setting ?
 
What about dampener and filter setting on the wheel ? Whats the recommended setting ?
Here you can find the recommended settings for all games and platforms.

 
I just tried my wheel with GT7 using the recommended settings. Why is the torque so weak? Even maxing FFB settings out in game and setting the wheel to 11NM it doesn't feel as strong as in other titles, as if something is bugged. What settings do you guys use for GT7?
 
So people are willing to spend 1000 on a wheelbase only but yet will still complain that PC's are too expensive. Just to make GT7 feel a bit better. Alright then.
I have a Mac for daily business. And I don't play any games on a PC (as I don't have one) or would do anything else on this PC except for playing iRacing (which also costs quite some money I heard). So it's a significant investment for something you're not entirely sure will be fun (iRacing might be completely different, or not fun, idk). It's a lot safer to spend this money on making something you already like better.
 
I just tried my wheel with GT7 using the recommended settings. Why is the torque so weak? Even maxing FFB settings out in game and setting the wheel to 11NM it doesn't feel as strong as in other titles, as if something is bugged. What settings do you guys use for GT7?
I don't think it's weak but for example ACC is too strong (PS5 version). Anyway, in GT7 and ACC the FFB is very dependant on the car and tires you use aslo track conditions. The car setup also affects FFB feel.

So, in general FFB is not permanent constant - you set it 11nm and you have constant 11nm with every car.

In my personal experience so far with G Pro, anything above 5nm is no go for me, so GT7 is just about right at the Logi recommended settings, to be comfortable and drive without getting tired around - 4nm is OK for me in ACC on PS5 same in GT7.

You might be perfectly fine driving with high torque but imagine what will happen, if you have an epic crash in a wall, you don't want to hold the wheel at that moment, just a hint.
 
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Anyway, in GT7 and ACC the FFB is very dependant on the car and tires you use aslo track conditions.
Good call.

I was going to suggest that he try some high-downforce vehicles out before jumping to conclusions.

Plus, Rich reckons, and I've noticed this too recently, FFB torque seems to have been nerfed a bit by PD again. Hopefully, as happened last year, it's only a temporary measure.
 
Good call.

I was going to suggest that he try some high-downforce vehicles out before jumping to conclusions.

Plus, Rich reckons, and I've noticed this too recently, FFB torque seems to have been nerfed a bit by PD again. Hopefully, as happened last year, it's only a temporary measure.
Yeap, the Toyota GR10 Gr.1 event on Deep Forest is a good example for strong feeling the wheel without changeing wheel/game sattings. But the wheel feels very weak on my stock Porsche GT3 '09 on SM tires on Tokyo WTC600 on wet track for comparison.

The force is something you need time to adjust to get use to, if you constantly change car classes.
 
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Still using my wheel almost daily since January, no real issues. GT7 ps5 and FM7 pc primarily, looking forward to the new forza motorsport this fall with better FFB than FM7 hopefully. Anyone try F1 23 yet? I hear its much better than years past.

Any news on new wheels? Shifters? xbox wheel available standalone to use with my ps5 base?
 
Still using my wheel almost daily since January, no real issues. GT7 ps5 and FM7 pc primarily, looking forward to the new forza motorsport this fall with better FFB than FM7 hopefully. Anyone try F1 23 yet? I hear its much better than years past.

Any news on new wheels? Shifters? xbox wheel available standalone to use with my ps5 base?
Just did.

I’m going to fall off this just like 22.

But the FFB is absolute arse now. Goes up to 4nm no matter what.

Handling is better but the FFB really ruins it in the end.

Also, wet weather was always this bad? Never tried it in 22, but there is zero visual clues and there doesn’t seem to be a drying line? What the hell?

Compared to GT7 Super formula cars with the G Pro it’s an astonishingly different experience. I’m not a good way.
 
We understand that the force level in the PS5 version will be addressed in the next patch.
I know this is going to be fixed and thanks for the fast update.

I just have to ask:

What is going on with this recurring “half-compatibility”?

Yes I know technically most games are compatible with the GPro Wheel, but I often feel that apart from the FFB not much else is there. Games still show icons and buttons from the G923 (+ and - buttons instead of the new rotating dial on the left side) and F1 23 FFB seems to also think it’s a G923, at least that’s how it feels like currently before the patch.

My biggest gripe is that the dials are basically nonresponsive if you want to turn them fast, which is a huge issue when I want to change settings @180mph in either GT7 or the F1 games.

Also pressing the left dial is just not recognized in any PS5 game (as it wasn’t present on the G923) and the + and - buttons as they show up in menus are flipped (rotating up is - and down is +)

It’s like the wheel is in this weird compatibility mode on consoles. This may be on the developers but buttons not working is a bit weird to be honest.

I also still await the arrival of the “dynamic” screen option with much anticipation 😁.

Is this on the SDK? Or just both GT7, F1 and ACC devs are “lazy”?

(Obviously this is all happening in G Pro compatibility mode)
 
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I know this is going to be fixed and thanks for the fast update.

I just have to ask:

What is going on with this recurring “half-compatibility”?

Yes I know technically most games are compatible with the GPro Wheel, but I often feel that apart from the FFB not much else is there. Games still show icons and buttons from the G923 (+ and - buttons instead of the new rotating dial on the left side) and F1 23 FFB seems to also think it’s a G923, at least that’s how it feels like currently before the patch.

My biggest gripe is that the dials are basically nonresponsive if you want to turn them fast, which is a huge issue when I want to change settings @180mph in either GT7 or the F1 games.

Also pressing the left dial is just not recognized in any PS5 game (as it wasn’t present on the G923) and the + and - buttons as they show up in menus are flipped (rotating up is - and down is +)

It’s like the wheel is in this weird compatibility mode on consoles. This may be on the developers but buttons not working is a bit weird to be honest.

I also still await the arrival of the “dynamic” screen option with much anticipation 😁.

Is this on the SDK? Or just both GT7, F1 and ACC devs are “lazy”?

(Obviously this is all happening in G Pro compatibility mode)
Yeah what is the dynamic screen option? I’ve set it to different settings, mostly just the Home Screen, I don’t care what the nM readout is, most of the time it’s at its highest during a corner, the time I shouldn’t be looking at the wheel.
but dynamic is like the same as the main screen?
 
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