Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[Met Entso]

@Marky264 it's coming soon - targeting to get it into the next G HUB release.

@Met Entso It's the Max FFB setting in GT7 that is being set by the game on startup, so just reduce that to the level that you want it set to.

Do you mean Force Feedback Max. Torque? I have it at 5 as recommended. I thought it was a maximum and then you could modify the strength by the wheel menu inside that game limit. So you are saying that the STRENGTH on the wheel does nothing?

And then why does it modify the strength if I change it in game every time? it does look like a bug.

 

[Monkey Man]

The strength on the wheelbase determines the absolute limit.

The in-game "Force Feedback Max. Torque" setting then divides that into roughly-10% increments.

I set my wheelbase to 10nm, that way when I set the torque in-game, I'm literally selecting, say, 7nm if I choose a "Force Feedback Max. Torque" setting of 7.

Works for me. The 1:1 in-game-setting to nm ratio might not be exact but it feels about right in my book.

Obviously if the wheelbase is set to 11nm, one could probably assume that the 10% increments would then represent 1.1nm instead of 1nm. I just like the convenience of being able to select an "integer" torque figure from the pause menu.

 

[Mateusz90]

I don't understand all of it. Why my base generates max 6,7 Nm in GT7 ?? Everything is maxed in settings, both ingame and in the wheelbase.

Can I set it stronger?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@Monkey Man 's post there made me wonder if Polyphony had changed things, so I quickly checked and they haven't, so what I've advised previously still holds true. Here's the situation:

• The Max FFB Torque setting in-game sets the upper limit of torque that you will feel within the wheel.
  
  
• The Strength then sets the torque within the boundaries of that upper limit set by the game's Max torque setting, but only if you change it after the game has started.

You can test this very easily by doing the following:

1. Change the Home Screen value on the wheel to the Torque setting so you can see the output when racing.
2. Alter the Strength on the wheel to 5Nm and then leave it alone.
3. Start GT7 and set the Max Torque to 10.
4. Start a time trial at Blue Moon Speedway and do a few corners - you will note that the torque maxes out around 6.7-6.8Nm.
5. Change the Max Torque value to 5.
6. Do more corners and you'll see the max torque at around 3.4Nm.
7. Quit GT7 back to the PS5 home screen and then start it again.
8. Do the same time trial at Blue Moon and you'll see the same 3.4-ishNm value on the OLED.
9. Now go and adjust the Strength setting on the wheel to 5.1Nm.
10. Do more corners and you'll see that the Max Torque is now in the region of 1.6Nm.

Point 8 shows you that it's the Max Torque value which is always set at game start.
Point 9 shows that the Strength setting operates as a value within that range, but only when you make an adjustment whilst the game is running.


@Mateusz90 Polyphony have currently reduced the maximum torque output for the wheel due to safety concerns. There's no news on when this might change, but it is specific to GT7.

 

[Met Entso]

@Monkey Man 's post there made me wonder if Polyphony had changed things, so I quickly checked and they haven't, so what I've advised previously still holds true. Here's the situation:

• The Max FFB Torque setting in-game sets the upper limit of torque that you will feel within the wheel.
  
  
• The Strength then sets the torque within the boundaries of that upper limit set by the game's Max torque setting, but only if you change it after the game has started.

You can test this very easily by doing the following:

1. Change the Home Screen value on the wheel to the Torque setting so you can see the output when racing.
2. Alter the Strength on the wheel to 5Nm and then leave it alone.
3. Start GT7 and set the Max Torque to 10.
4. Start a time trial at Blue Moon Speedway and do a few corners - you will note that the torque maxes out around 6.7-6.8Nm.
5. Change the Max Torque value to 5.
6. Do more corners and you'll see the max torque at around 3.4Nm.
7. Quit GT7 back to the PS5 home screen and then start it again.
8. Do the same time trial at Blue Moon and you'll see the same 3.4-ishNm value on the OLED.
9. Now go and adjust the Strength setting on the wheel to 5.1Nm.
10. Do more corners and you'll see that the Max Torque is now in the region of 1.6Nm.

Point 8 shows you that it's the Max Torque value which is always set at game start.
Point 9 shows that the Strength setting operates as a value within that range, but only when you make an adjustment whilst the game is running.


@Mateusz90 Polyphony have currently reduced the maximum torque output for the wheel due to safety concerns. There's no news on when this might change, but it is specific to GT7.

Ok that makes it clear now. Feels like an odd behaviour having to change it every time but now I understand your solution of setting it in Max torgue in-game and leave it at that and just use STRENGTH in the wheel to adjust for certain car/track. That makes sense after all.
Thanks for the information!

 

[hawkeyez]

@Monkey Man 's post there made me wonder if Polyphony had changed things, so I quickly checked and they haven't, so what I've advised previously still holds true. Here's the situation:

• The Max FFB Torque setting in-game sets the upper limit of torque that you will feel within the wheel.
  
  
• The Strength then sets the torque within the boundaries of that upper limit set by the game's Max torque setting, but only if you change it after the game has started.

You can test this very easily by doing the following:

1. Change the Home Screen value on the wheel to the Torque setting so you can see the output when racing.
2. Alter the Strength on the wheel to 5Nm and then leave it alone.
3. Start GT7 and set the Max Torque to 10.
4. Start a time trial at Blue Moon Speedway and do a few corners - you will note that the torque maxes out around 6.7-6.8Nm.
5. Change the Max Torque value to 5.
6. Do more corners and you'll see the max torque at around 3.4Nm.
7. Quit GT7 back to the PS5 home screen and then start it again.
8. Do the same time trial at Blue Moon and you'll see the same 3.4-ishNm value on the OLED.
9. Now go and adjust the Strength setting on the wheel to 5.1Nm.
10. Do more corners and you'll see that the Max Torque is now in the region of 1.6Nm.

Point 8 shows you that it's the Max Torque value which is always set at game start.
Point 9 shows that the Strength setting operates as a value within that range, but only when you make an adjustment whilst the game is running.

Man this wheel is confusing me. Ok, before I used to have my wheel at recommended settings but strength at 7nm, game at 5 torque. I’d drive and it would feel like I didn’t have much FFB so I’d adjust the wheel up or down by 0.1n and there’s my FFB is back! I thought that was supposed to be fixed in an update?

So now I leave my wheel at 11nm and I think I’m at 8 in game, but that had crept up from 5 over time. I’m going to try it next time I race, do a few laps, change wheel setting to 10.9nm and see if it rips my arms off.

It was my understanding that the wheel you wanted to leave at 11nm and adjust the in game torque only. Set it and leave it.

My brother has a T300rs, isn’t that thing around 4nm max? He tried my rig out finally and he said it’s a bit to get used of the wheel it’s a little bit heavier than my wheel. My wheel is 11nm, hardly any filter or dampening and then in game is 8 torque and 8 sensitivity.

Shouldn’t this wheel be a whole lot stronger than the T300rs at those settings? I’m pretty sure his in game settings are 3 torque and 5 sensitivity.

 

[rAtey]

Man this wheel is confusing me. Ok, before I used to have my wheel at recommended settings but strength at 7nm, game at 5 torque. I’d drive and it would feel like I didn’t have much FFB so I’d adjust the wheel up or down by 0.1n and there’s my FFB is back! I thought that was supposed to be fixed in an update?

So now I leave my wheel at 11nm and I think I’m at 8 in game, but that had crept up from 5 over time. I’m going to try it next time I race, do a few laps, change wheel setting to 10.9nm and see if it rips my arms off.

It was my understanding that the wheel you wanted to leave at 11nm and adjust the in game torque only. Set it and leave it.

My brother has a T300rs, isn’t that thing around 4nm max? He tried my rig out finally and he said it’s a bit to get used of the wheel it’s a little bit heavier than my wheel. My wheel is 11nm, hardly any filter or dampening and then in game is 8 torque and 8 sensitivity.

Shouldn’t this wheel be a whole lot stronger than the T300rs at those settings? I’m pretty sure his in game settings are 3 torque and 5 sensitivity.

I agree it's a bit confusing. Looks like GT7 is capping the wheel at 68% (or 2/3rds)..? Still haven't used the wheel, hope to do it tonight. Coming from a G29 is was planning on using about 5nm to get used to it.

So if I understand correctly I have to set it to 5nm , start the game, then change max torque to 7 to get around 5nm? The 5nm setting on the wheel doesn't do anything, could be set to 10 or 1 it would just ignore it and GT7 torque 10 would still give 6.7 NM?


I'll see it tonight, and if this is the thing I have to do I'll just have to live with it.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@hawkeyez remember the last sentence in my post - Polyphony is capping the max torque of the wheel at the moment so a setting of 8 in the game is going to give you just above 5Nm. Factor in different centring tuning per wheel and the fact that the T300 peaks at around 3.9Nm and there’s only going to be just under 2Nm difference in torque.

Those steps I wrote are just a methodology for you to prove for yourself what I’m saying. The real advice is to set the in game Torque at a value that works for you and then leave it.

@rAtey the strength setting will just set a value within the range set by the in game torque, but only if you change that after the game has started, otherwise the in game torque setting is what is applied.

 

[hawkeyez]

@hawkeyez remember the last sentence in my post - Polyphony is capping the max torque of the wheel at the moment so a setting of 8 in the game is going to give you just above 5Nm. Factor in different centring tuning per wheel and the fact that the T300 peaks at around 3.9Nm and there’s only going to be just under 2Nm difference in torque.

Those steps I wrote are just a methodology for you to prove for yourself what I’m saying. The real advice is to set the in game Torque at a value that works for you and then leave it.

@rAtey the strength setting will just set a value within the range set by the in game torque, but only if you change that after the game has started, otherwise the in game torque setting is what is applied.

Thank you. That makes perfect sense. A little bit heavier sounds like right around 2nm. I’ll just leave my set as is. I’d like to get more FFB for sports soft tires but racing soft on the right car will be overboard.

Yep once again Polyphony doing Polyphony things. Maybe somebody had an accident.

I should have had him drive something with racing soft tires on. I wonder if the T300rs might sort of cap out on those whilst the G Pro having much more headroom. Maybe T300 or g923 users aren’t feeling as much of a difference going from comfort to racing.

They really need to slightly reduce the difference of torque between comfort tires, sports tires and racing tires. I like that it’s different but it’s difficult to balance it perfectly to jump from car to car Running different tires. It’s like comfort is 20% of available FFB, sports is 60% of available FFB and racing is 100% of available FFB. But I’m getting used of it so maybe they shouldn’t change it because they’ll probably go too much the other way. Haha


Anyway thanks for clarifying.

 

[IfAndOr]

Hmm, interesting that PD cap the wheel's torque at seemingly below 7Nm. I wonder if they also do that with the official Fanatic base.
If you set it at 10 in-game and then set it at 11 on the base does it go higher than 7 on the display?

I like that it’s different but it’s difficult to balance it perfectly to jump from car to car

The base has 5 profile settings. I use mine when changing between different games. But if GT7 is pretty much all you're playing you might as well set up profiles for quick switching between different types of car - road, race, high downforce etc - or maybe different types of tyre. The profiles can be named via G Hub if you want. Once they are all setup you wouldn't need to touch anything in-game, set and forget (until PD tweak things again).

 

[hawkeyez]

Hmm, interesting that PD cap the wheel's torque at seemingly below 7Nm. I wonder if they also do that with the official Fanatic base.
If you set it at 10 in-game and then set it at 11 on the base does it go higher than 7 on the display?


The base has 5 profile settings. I use mine when changing between different games. But if GT7 is pretty much all you're playing you might as well set up profiles for quick switching between different types of car - road, race, high downforce etc - or maybe different types of tyre. The profiles can be named via G Hub if you want. Once they are all setup you wouldn't need to touch anything in-game, set and forget (until PD tweak things again).

Geez good point, I forgot about the separate profiles. I’ll name them comfort, sports and racing. I’ll have to set it how I want for comfort medium. Then dial back for sports medium and then again for racing medium. That should balance it.

 

[Abarth_71]

Hmm, interesting that PD cap the wheel's torque at seemingly below 7Nm. I wonder if they also do that with the official Fanatic base.

They don't. I have my DD Pro set at peak so I'm getting the full 8Nm, in game for the Max Torque I usually don't go higher than 5 as you supposedly get clipping. I also use the same settings whatever I'm driving.

 

[Mateusz90]

If you set it at 10 in-game and then set it at 11 on the base does it go higher than 7 on the display?

I think max 6,7 Nm,

I'd love to have more.

Do I understand it correct, that road cars with power steering use less Nm than race cars? Or is it all based on tires and grip?

Gt7 has weird FFB.

 

[s363134]

Do I understand it correct, that road cars with power steering use less Nm than race cars? Or is it all based on tires and grip?

Yep, pending on the cars and tires, how it should be as oppose to the same feel for all cars and / or tires.

 

[Monkey Man]

I'm confused now too.

Setting the base at 10 and "imagining" that the in-game setting therefore allows me to select an integer nm value has worked for me for months... for all intents and purposes.

I didn't know that PD had nerfed the max nm possible again. I remember the last time it did it and assumed that the company lifted the nerf some time after that.

It was my understanding that the wheel you wanted to leave at 11nm and adjust the in game torque only. Set it and leave it.

This is pretty much what I've been doing, except set at 10 on the base.

I like to be able to bump it up or down from the pause menu in-game as-needed for different cars 'cause it's a faster tweak that way.

 

[Supercededman]

To use the wheel at full power for competitive racing you really have to hate yourself. I use it with 100% on the base and 50% in-game gain in ACC, roughly about 5.5nm peak and it feels very strong, and when I hit a kerb even stronger.

I received mine just a day or so ago, and have only had the opportunity to do an hour or so with it, so bear with me!

My previous DD wheel was a Fanatec DD Pro with the 8nm upgrade, and LC brake. Switching to the Logitech, I thought I'd try 11nm setting, and dial down as required. I fired up G-Hub, and set it to 11 there, and then started GT7 up.

I initially thought the FFB was WEAKER than the DD Pro, which made no sense at all. So, I checked the wheel setting. Yup, 11nm there, too.

I'm mystified as to why it would feel weaker. The extra wheel rim width would account for some of that - increased leverage - but maybe the in-game settings, where you can set the FFB strength, would need to be put at maximum. I suspect this is the case. I haven't had the chance to try this out, but has anyone else had a similar experience?

 

[Supercededman]

One drawback: you'll need to drill one hole for the front screw, alhtough I not sure if 3 screws are mandatory.

As far as Next Level Racing rigs go, I have TWO GT Lite rigs (separate locations). I would have thought that for the cheaper NLR rigs - like mine (and yours?) the wheel base plates would be similar.

With mine, the existing, pre-drilled holes in the baseplate matched perfectly with the G-Pro wheelbase, allowing me to use the 'front' hole, and thus, three mounting points in total.

 

[rAtey]

As far as Next Level Racing rigs go, I have TWO GT Lite rigs (separate locations). I would have thought that for the cheaper NLR rigs - like mine (and yours?) the wheel base plates would be similar.

With mine, the existing, pre-drilled holes in the baseplate matched perfectly with the G-Pro wheelbase, allowing me to use the 'front' hole, and thus, three mounting points in total.

I installed it a few days ago on a simlab gt1 evo and it didn't fit at all. First I fit the 2 screws at the top and nothing lined up below. I drilled 1 hole and tried playing with 3 bolts. It works, but the heel rest wasn't flex free. Drilled 2 more holes and now it's solid.

 

[IfAndOr]

I'm mystified as to why it would feel weaker

According to a few posts from above, in GT7 PD have currently limited the amount of torque the G Pro can produce.

Polyphony have currently reduced the maximum torque output for the wheel due to safety concerns. There's no news on when this might change, but it is specific to GT7.

It seems to be reported at around 7Nm max. Which is still quite strong but not at its full potential.

I use it in ACC, which has no restrictions, and it can get very strong if cranked up fully.

The health and safety department at PD need to take a holiday. 🙂

 

[rAtey]

According to a few posts from above, in GT7 PD have currently limited the amount of torque the G Pro can produce.

It seems to be reported at around 7Nm max. Which is still quite strong but not at its full potential.

I use it in ACC, which has no restrictions, and it can get very strong if cranked up fully.

The health and safety department at PD need to take a holiday. 🙂

I got it to 9.7 this morning and have it at 10nm so it wouldn't seem so. Was way too heavy and my whole rig was shaking so I rebooted my console and it was at 5 again. Still don't understand how it works though.

 

[ILLEAGLE_34]

Just to be perfectly clear, this FFB torque settings discussion only affects the G Pro series model. Yes I read the the title of the thread but I still have to ask, we all know how some threads start to get intertwined 🍻

 

[Supercededman]

I got it to 9.7 this morning and have it at 10nm so it wouldn't seem so. Was way too heavy and my whole rig was shaking so I rebooted my console and it was at 5 again. Still don't understand how it works though.

Could you message me privately {so as not to dwell on this and annoy the carp out of others) with the G-Hub settings, the wheel settings, and the in-game settings, I'd appreciate it.

I don't want to annoy other posters or mods by derailing this thread further. I'm a little confused by some of the terminology, and would love a simple, stepped (by numbers!) guide. I'm a complete doofus.

 

[IfAndOr]

I don't want to annoy other posters or mods by derailing this thread further

This thread is all about the G Pro wheel (and accessories) so you can't derail it or go wrong in asking questions on here. 🙂
Someone will usually try to help you and any answers given might also help others. 👍

Not having GT7, I can't help with settings for that. As for G Hub*, you need that for updating the firmware on the base, wheel and pedals, but most settings can be accessed via the options on the base after that.

You can see Logitech's recommended starting settings for the wheel HERE. Tweak them to suit your self.

*You can also name the 5 presets on the base via G Hub.

I'm a complete doofus.

We've all got to start somewhere. 😉

 

[Supercededman]

This thread is all about the G Pro wheel (and accessories) so you can't derail it or go wrong in asking questions on here. 🙂
Someone will usually try to help you and any answers given might also help others. 👍

Not having GT7, I can't help with settings for that. As for G Hub*, you need that for updating the firmware on the base, wheel and pedals, but most settings can be accessed via the options on the base after that.

You can see Logitech's recommended starting settings for the wheel HERE. Tweak them to suit your self.

*You can also name the 5 presets on the base via G Hub.


We've all got to start somewhere. 😉

Thankyou so much. I had been to the Logitech support site but not noticed this link. You are a legend.

 

[Blaze_409]

One drawback: you'll need to drill one hole for the front screw, alhtough I not sure if 3 screws are mandatory.

You can just use the table clamp on the front and the screws in the back.

 

[rAtey]

It works fine with the 2 screws at the back without the clamp

 

[Monkey Man]

I've heard that, as well as with the clamp and no screws.

 

[rAtey]

I had the clamp in front and 2 screws at the back but didn't like the look. Removed the clamp and still solid as a rock. (Simlab GT1 Evo)

 

[LOGI_Rich]

I got it to 9.7 this morning and have it at 10nm so it wouldn't seem so. Was way too heavy and my whole rig was shaking so I rebooted my console and it was at 5 again. Still don't understand how it works though.

Sounds like you got it into either non-Trueforce mode (it's still possible if you turn the PS5 on and get the wheel registered super quickly) or were you using the G923 mode?

G923 mode should get you more strength but then the feeling is horrendous because of the super aggressive centering, resulting in constant oscillations - Polyphony do tune each wheel differently and can apply different limits for each wheel. They did a similar strength reduction that's currently applied to our Pro Wheel to the Podium/GT DD Pro a while back, but have since brought the strength back up again for those wheels.

 

[rAtey]

Sounds like you got it into either non-Trueforce mode (it's still possible if you turn the PS5 on and get the wheel registered super quickly) or were you using the G923 mode?

G923 mode should get you more strength but then the feeling is horrendous because of the super aggressive centering, resulting in constant oscillations - Polyphony do tune each wheel differently and can apply different limits for each wheel. They did a similar strength reduction that's currently applied to our Pro Wheel to the Podium/GT DD Pro a while back, but have since brought the strength back up again for those wheels.

Definitely not in G923 mode. Not a ninja at turning it on either. I'll try and replicate it today.

Silly question, but how can I see TF is on? TF Audio is set to 35.