Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

On the damping front, personally I've found for 'feel' that the damper level I like sort of scales with the torque output of the wheel.

If the damper is too high compared to the torque setting, it feels like you're twisting the wheel through treacle, it's a sort of weird artificial restriction and is glaringly obvious.

Equally though, if the damper is (much) too low compared to the torque, it feels too much like you're holding on to an electric motor, the movements of the wheel are incredibly quick and twitchy, which again feels artificial, and to me doesn't feel representative of the natural inertia /resistance there is in a steering system.

Sure if the tyres were solid blocks, there were no bushes anywhere in the suspension or steering rack mounts, and you were holding on to a perfectly stiff wheel attached to a perfectly stiff steering column that both weighed nothing, and the steering rack had zero play, zero friction, and no weight at all, then you'd get that incredibly twitchy, responsive feel, but I don't have any cars like that, and so have ended up with the damper setting moving alongside my torque setting so that it feels like I'm actually interacting with a complete mechanical steering system in a car, and not just raw forces.

It could also just be that because the cars I actually drive are all 15+ years old with hydraulic steering racks and not exactly the most sophisticated steering / suspension setups, and so I'm expecting a certain slop / resistance that the damper setting provides for me!

I have the torque setting at max in GT7 and on the wheel, which is a little unrealistically heavy, but I like the breadth of sensation it gives with different tyre compounds / aero / wet surface etc. As a result of this high torque, my damper setting is at 45 I think it is.

When I initially ran the wheel at ~6Nm I had the damper around 15 - 20, so you can see how it's scaled. I think I may have the damper a touch high at the moment as it's a little unresponsive to large oversteer moments compared to my actual cars, I'd guess 35-40 is probably my sweet spot if I spent a bit more time tweaking.
 
Bit stupid that they advertise a logibts discount, even showing the wheel in the advertisement to not have it work. My friend told me it worked earlier somehow, getting the total down to €1279.xx which is more than a fair price. Lowest I can get it is €1321.xx which is still OK I guess.
 
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Seems that the g pro wheel is now available at best buy, it says that it's compatible with PC though, no mention of ps5 or Xbox, anyone here have any insight on that?
As far as I know, there are only 2 versions, PC/ps5 and PC/Xbox
Wouldn't mind upgrading at some point
 
@LOGI_Rich

Hello again. A couple days ago something went wrong, I'm not entirely sure what. But while my wheel was connected to my PS5, not currently in use at that particular moment, I received an old familiar notification on the PS5.

Too many USB devices connected.

This happened back in February or March this year. The console was still under warranty so I shipped it off for repair. This same issue occurred again but now that I was out of warranty, I decided it was best to simply trade in the defective PS5 for a new one.

Today when attempting to connect the wheel to the new console, it would not connect. Yet another old familiar problem. So I figured I'd see what would happen on my PC. But upon connecting to my PC I received an error that the device could not be recognized. G Hub would not pick it up at all.

As far as what the wheel is doing, when it powers on, the platform selection menu will come up but after selecting the platform it will 3 dot and time out. This time on PS5 and PC mode.

I'm worried that whatever caused the hardware failure on my old PS5 console somehow damaged my wheel. I'm curious what course of action I could pursue.

I believe I purchased this wheel a little over 6 months ago in February.
 
Sorry to hear that. The first thing to try is replacing the USB cable. Try the one from the pedals to see if that makes any difference first!

Oh and I assume you're still not connecting to the Samsung TV, right?
 
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Thank you @LOGI_Rich , your solution has helped a bit, this click is still present sometimes, but I don't care as much, knowing that ptobably the spring under the QR collar is causing this feel. It is present on only these two curves on SPA. I coudn't recreate this click on any other track in the game.
mine was clicking, I’ve since turned filter to 1 and dampener off and I pulled the wheel off, I was inspecting the QR and got carried away and almost popped it right off, finally got it back together, haven’t noticed the click since. I’m not sure if it’s the wheel setting change or having the QR apart so much the ball bearings almost popped out. I sure it’ll come back. I’m convinced it’s the spring or the ball bearings. In the past it was clicking fairly often, I popped the wheel off, can the QR collar a spin you could feel it making a scraping sound as you turned it, popped it back on and I was good for almost a week. This time around it seems it hasn’t come back for awhile or I got used of it and haven’t noticed it.

unfortunately in GT7, I like filter and dampener pretty much off for lower PP cars. But then if I hop in the 917K or something equivalent I really should bump the settings back up as the wheel oscillates at higher speeds when braking… although I kind of like it haha
 
Sorry to hear that. The first thing to try is replacing the USB cable. Try the one from the pedals to see if that makes any difference first!

Oh and I assume you're still not connecting to the Samsung TV, right?
Tried swapping the USB cables, same result.

And yes still have that Samsung TV, however I've been unplugging the HDMI connection between the PS5 and the TV while using wheel. This time I forgot to, so when the PS5 had the problem everything was connected but the wheel was off.
 
The package I ordered for my mate arrived today.

The outer box for the wheelbase was torn and squashed a bit in a corner. The inner Logitech box is just dented and creased for a couple o' inches in the same corner by the look of it.

The delivery guy agreed it looked like it'd been dropped on that corner. Said he would back me up if there was an issue.

I won't know if everything's OK 'til my buddy takes it out to my other buddy out woop-woop (Hoddles Creek) and he opens it. I don't want to spoil the "unboxing" for him so let's just hope it's alright.

EDIT:
Obviously if I had a mobile 'phone or camera I would've taken a pic of it. Incredibly, I've never had a camera (56 years old in less than 2 weeks!). :lol:
 
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The package I ordered for my mate arrived today.

The outer box for the wheelbase was torn and squashed a bit in a corner. The inner Logitech box is just dented and creased for a couple o' inches in the same corner by the look of it.

The delivery guy agreed it looked like it'd been dropped on that corner. Said he would back me up if there was an issue.

I won't know if everything's OK 'til my buddy takes it out to my other buddy out woop-woop (Hoddles Creek) and he opens it. I don't want to spoil the "unboxing" for him so let's just hope it's alright.

EDIT:
Obviously if I had a mobile 'phone or camera I would've taken a pic of it. Incredibly, I've never had a camera (56 years old in less than 2 weeks!). :lol:
I ordered the wheel and pedals together last week. Yesterday the pedals arrived but the wheel is not due until next. Not sure how that works.
 
The package I ordered for my mate arrived today.

The outer box for the wheelbase was torn and squashed a bit in a corner. The inner Logitech box is just dented and creased for a couple o' inches in the same corner by the look of it.

The delivery guy agreed it looked like it'd been dropped on that corner. Said he would back me up if there was an issue.

I won't know if everything's OK 'til my buddy takes it out to my other buddy out woop-woop (Hoddles Creek) and he opens it. I don't I want to spoil the "unboxing" for him so let's just hope it's alright.
Hope it's ok - as you know these things are built like bricks - my gut says it won't be an issue at all.

So I caved and got a PC – was PS5 only but I really like ACC, wanted to try AC Touge racing and an i7/4070 combo went on sale so **** it, I wanted to try LFM and it's only money – one thing I do wish although I know it's unreasonable is that the on wheel profiles were by platform not overall. So I could have 5 PS5 profiles and 5 PC profiles. Not a big deal though. No issues connecting to the PC and I set up a USB switch so I can just push a button and the wheelbase has no issue with that even when it's on which is cool.

e; Oh and having put an hour or so testing in, the FFB on ACC is better on PC than PS5, not sure why but there's just more info in the wheel. It's not significant enough to be a major game changer – if you're on console 1.9x is pretty much the same – but I do notice more info particularly around how the backend of the car is behaving (F296). Now I need a full rig and not just a wheel stand. Dammit.
 
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Hope it's ok - as you know these things are built like bricks - my gut says it won't be an issue at all.

So I caved and got a PC – was PS5 only but I really like ACC, wanted to try AC Touge racing and an i7/4070 combo went on sale so **** it, I wanted to try LFM and it's only money – one thing I do wish although I know it's unreasonable is that the on wheel profiles were by platform not overall. So I could have 5 PS5 profiles and 5 PC profiles. Not a big deal though. No issues connecting to the PC and I set up a USB switch so I can just push a button and the wheelbase has no issue with that even when it's on which is cool.

e; Oh and having put an hour or so testing in, the FFB on ACC is better on PC than PS5, not sure why but there's just more info in the wheel. It's not significant enough to be a major game changer – if you're on console 1.9x is pretty much the same – but I do notice more info particularly around how the backend of the car is behaving (F296). Now I need a full rig and not just a wheel stand. Dammit.
Oh dear, next a new seat, new monitor, new monitor stand, 2 new monitors .... welcome in the hole. No getting out.
 
I ordered the wheel and pedals together last week. Yesterday the pedals arrived but the wheel is not due until next. Not sure how that works.
I remember seeing this way back when they first came out. Can't remember seeing Aussies' orders being split this way but for sure there were poms who experienced this, so AFAICT it's not that-unusual.

Hang in there; it'll get there!

Hope it's ok - as you know these things are built like bricks - my gut says it won't be an issue at all.
Agreed.
 
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Hi there everybody,
I received my Gpro full set up a couple of months ago annnd loving it, massive upgrade from my ol G27. I've been lurking here and found the settings advice very helpful.
Over the last month or so, while playing GT7 I've noticed sometimes after braking, the ABS light on my HUD flashed a little. I didn't know what was causing it, but it didn't last long so why worry, right?
Well it's been getting worse.
It's got to the stage you can see a percentage of brake, still on well after I'm back on the loud pedal. And was getting asked in our league race, why am u braking, in the middle of a straight lol.
After watching the replay it's so easy to see the brakes are on way more than I'm on the ohhh crap pedal!
I've tried all sorts of things, re greasing, no grease, all the different combinations of elastomer. I even tried it in ACC.
I plugged it all into my PC too, used game hub to try and fix it. Nope

Contacted logitech about a week ago and he has been great, up to a point. Offered a few things for me to try, that I hadn't thought of.
But in the end he had to agree, it's not right.
This is where it went south. LOL
No available stock, can't say when they will have. Would I like a couple of sets of headphones to replace them?
I'm not sure that's going to help me fix my pedal....... (now waiting to see whatelse he can do)

Soooooo, I've come to you guys!
Can anyone offer me anything else that I can try? Perhaps someone else has had the same problem and has been able to fix it? Maybe? ........Help?

Anyway sorry it's a long one for my first post,
But here it is!

Cheers
MrBad
 
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@MrBad Couple of things to check:
  1. Are the pedals anywhere near a source of EMI - speakers, routers etc.?
  2. Have you tried tightening the nuts either side of where the load cell is located?
    1693483266957.png
The pedals self-calibrate when they're first powered on, but if any pressure is applied to the brake in the first 10 seconds then it can interfere with that, so that's something else to be aware of. I did see one person with loose side nuts and tightening them up sorted it. There was another person who thought it was due to them having moved the pedal and not tightened it back up perfectly aligned straight, but that one turned out to be caused by the fact that he moved his rig into position before playing and it was right next to his router.
 
My pedals are directly above my router as I'm hiding my router under the pedal deck. Are you saying I should relocate my router because it can effect the pedals? Or is this some bizarre occurrence?
 
My pedals are directly above my router as I'm hiding my router under the pedal deck. Are you saying I should relocate my router because it can effect the pedals? Or is this some bizarre occurrence?
As with any piece of computer equipment, not all routers are created equally - there are good ones and bad ones. If you're not getting any issues then you should be fine but... I would say that hiding your router under something isn't the best way to get the best wireless performance from it ;)
 
As with any piece of computer equipment, not all routers are created equally - there are good ones and bad ones. If you're not getting any issues then you should be fine but... I would say that hiding your router under something isn't the best way to get the best wireless performance from it ;)
The wifi is only for the ps5 that's a feet away. I don't want to damage anything so I will move it a few feet away from the pedals.
 
The wifi is only for the ps5 that's a feet away. I don't want to damage anything so I will move it a few feet away from the pedals.
If it’s only 5ft away why not run an Ethernet cable? They’re dirt cheap. I ran a 50’ cable from another room to my PS5 haha. My room has an Ethernet port and the room beside it, so one goes to my laptop and one to my PS5. My PS5 was up and down for speed on call of duty until I plugged that Ethernet cable in.
 
@MrBad Couple of things to check:
  1. Are the pedals anywhere near a source of EMI - speakers, routers etc.?
  2. Have you tried tightening the nuts either side of where the load cell is located?
    View attachment 1284058
The pedals self-calibrate when they're first powered on, but if any pressure is applied to the brake in the first 10 seconds then it can interfere with that, so that's something else to be aware of. I did see one person with loose side nuts and tightening them up sorted it. There was another person who thought it was due to them having moved the pedal and not tightened it back up perfectly aligned straight, but that one turned out to be caused by the fact that he moved his rig into position before playing and it was right next to his router.
Hey LOGI_Rich,
Thanks for the quick response mate!
Well both those things apply.

1. I have a Logitech sub Z506, I know it's old, but it does the job, about 30cm away from the pedals. Yoink that away!

2. The nuts either side were a little loose. One side more than the other.
So after tightening them up.......
The wheels display showed the brake about 1/3 on!

I had to shut everything down and unplug power to both wheel and PS5.

Guess what? After 20 or so laps..... it feels SOOO much better. I didn't realise how bad it had gotten! Last of the late brakers has returned!
And no extended unwanted brake applications!

Thanks Rich, your a champ!

I can't wait to let Ralf from Logi know I don't need his services atm. Yippee!
 
If it’s only 5ft away why not run an Ethernet cable? They’re dirt cheap. I ran a 50’ cable from another room to my PS5 haha. My room has an Ethernet port and the room beside it, so one goes to my laptop and one to my PS5. My PS5 was up and down for speed on call of duty until I plugged that Ethernet cable in.
Cause I hate to see cables. That's why the router is under the pedal deck.
 
Cause I hate to see cables. That's why the router is under the pedal deck.
Fair enough, my router used to be in the same room as my PlayStation and I’d experience dropouts hence the reason for always plugging it in now. Could have just been a bad router though.
 
Fair enough, my router used to be in the same room as my PlayStation and I’d experience dropouts hence the reason for always plugging it in now. Could have just been a bad router though.
Racing is all I do on the ps5. When I used to play COD it was wired but I'm kind of a freak about wire management. For racing it's fine.
 
The nuts either side were a little loose. One side more than the other.
So after tightening them up.......
The wheels display showed the brake about 1/3 on!
Yeah, sorry - I should have made it clearer to unplug/replug the pedals after tightening the nuts, so that the calibration would reset. Glad you're up and running properly again.
 
Hey @LOGI_Rich

Yesterday I wanted to play on the PC, and when I took the steering wheel off the PS5 I noticed that the cable was like this.. is there a problem using it like that? It does look like it's just the cover, but I don't know..

Btw, the cable wasn't touching the wall or anything.. even the side that connects to the base is starting to come loose. I have the wheel for about 8 months now. Maybe you guys should look into reinforcing those parts in the future.
Thanks in advance :)🤝
 

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