Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Apologies in advance as I'm sure it's been gone over before, but from memory you recommend FFB Sensitivity be set to 1, is that right?

Are you able to articulate for a smooth brained individual such as myself, how the difference between 1 and 10 manifests itself in terms of feel etc.?

I have historically had it set to 1 the whole time, FFB 10, and tinkered with the wheel settings prior to 1.49, albeit with torque on 11Nm too. Now that we have full strength, these maxed out settings are crazy for cars on slicks, so I've settled on an FFB strength in game of 6 as a fair balance between really nice feeling Comfort tyres, good grippy feeling Sports tyres (but a little over the top), and then slightly excessive slicks.

As part of this though, I ended up putting the FFB Sensitivity to 10, and found that to me it just gave a little more resistance / feel off centre which I liked, to sort of compensate for the loss of FFB Strength by turning down to 6.

I assume I'm just wrongly associating 'resistance' with 'feel', but am curious if you have a slightly more enlightening explanation of the impact FFB Sensitivity has, as PD's scrolling text explanation doesn't really convince me...!

Thanks for your support as always :)
This comment from a youtube video helped me really understand it and I notice the difference allot between 1 and 10. I really wish PD would fix it so we can drive with 10 again as FFBS at 1 makes the wheel feel really loose and light in the center.

This person explains it very well:


"Thank you for mentioning my channel and linking my video in your description, that’s highly appreciated since many people would just use the info as if it’s theirs. I know you didn’t even use it in your video but still thank you. I also appreciate your honest approach, when you state that you’re just testing and describing what you’re feeling from the settings. By the way, make sure you put the wheel in the GT mode, when playing Gran Turismo and in the Other mode for other games. It makes a lot of difference. I would like to further describe the difference between 1 and 10 for the force feedback sensitivity from my own experience. At 10 it feels like your steering wheel is directly connected to your steering column.

At 1 it feels like there is some sort of elastic coupling between the two. It feels like the elasticity of this coupling increases when you decrease the ffb sensitivity until you hit maximum elasticity at 1. This is felt by an added delay to the force created by the caster effect of the suspension, which is the force that wants to return your wheel back to the center. It’s very hard to detect this difference when just driving normally. While drifting it gets much more obvious especially when doing quick adjustments to the steering input. At 10 it feels like the steering wheel is always rigidly connected to the front wheels when doing these adjustments, at 1 it feels like there is a delay before the front wheels follow your command, at least in terms of force feedback.

To be able to feel this difference you can do 2 tests: First you can drive in a straight line and slightly move the steering wheel left and right around the center but quickly. At 1 it will feel more dead around the center. At 10 you will feel that the ffb will start to build up much closer to the center. In other words, at 1 you need to move the wheel much further away from the center to start to feel something compared to 10 where it’s much closer to the center position of the wheel. Now this also changes when you change the controller steering sensitivity, but it has to do with how much your inputs are amplified or reduced. It’s only 1:1 at 5 CSS and I’ve described that in more detail in my video which you have linked: [ This is also why other people experience oscillations of the steering wheel around its center while going in a straight line if they increase the ffb sensitivity to 10. Because they set the controller steering sensitivity higher than 5. Y

You didn’t experience that in your video because you initially set your CSS to 5. The second test would be to intentionally make the car understeer by overturning the steering wheel. Usually when steering further towards the direction of the turn you feel an increasing force which wants to bring the steering wheel back to the initial position because of the caster effect. That force will increase the further you move the steering wheel away until you hit a point where the front tires are at the edge of grip. At that point the force feedback is at max (relative to this situation), and if you move the steering wheel further away, you will break the traction at the front tires, and the force will drop suddenly, making the steering wheel feel lighter and easier to move around.

This effect was significantly improved after update 1.31 and the changes in physics, and I made a video especially about that which you can check out here: [ That point where the tires are at the edge of grip is always very accurately and consistently felt with the ffb sensitivity at 10, no matter how fast you move the steering wheel. Whereas if you set the ffb sensitivity to 1 it gets very inconsistent and misleading because of that added “elasticity” and it gets highly dependent on how fast you move the steering wheel. Because of that you can get into understeering way long before you can even feel it. Of course when moving the steering wheel very slowly it’s not gonna make a noticeable difference. But it’s when things get intense during a race or when drifting that it gets very significant."

Source: https://www.youtube.com/@SimActionClips
 
It would be awesome if you (@LOGI_Rich ) could get a confirmation from PD so we can put this to rest.
The same question about the controller sensitivity has been asked for many generations of GT without a definitive answer, so I'm not sure Rich would have any more success. PD are very secretive.

Perhaps Rich could take a different approach to access their files. 😀
burglarperspective.jpg
 
@LOGI_Rich Will there ever be an update to USB-C instead of micro-USB for this product in a new revision? Any chance there will be a smaller version in the future for us amateurs? Would prefer something less bulky, same for the pedals. Something like CAMMUS C5 bundle shows potential for Logitech to do a true successor to the DFGT and a replacement finally for the G923.
 
@LOGI_Rich Will there ever be an update to USB-C instead of micro-USB for this product in a new revision? Any chance there will be a smaller version in the future for us amateurs? Would prefer something less bulky, same for the pedals. Something like CAMMUS C5 bundle shows potential for Logitech to do a true successor to the DFGT and a replacement finally for the G923.
I was also quite surprised logitech did not use USB-C for the base unit.

Base unit is a perfect size. No need to make it smaller.. in my opinion.
 
@LOGI_Rich sorry to bother you about this again mate. Here's an update:

@LOGI_Rich sorry to bother you mate:

The mini-stick on my wheel's been increasingly-unresponsive when pushing it down (south) these past few weeks. It's now reached the point that I can get it to work if I push it south-west, but not south.

Only a few hours of gentle use a week.

Any thoughts mate? Is there a trick I can employ to bring it back? Caig Deoxit maybe?
Your reply:
Try blowing a can of compressed air in there whilst rotating the stick - see if that helps.
My reply:
Thanks @LOGI_Rich.

May be a while before I can get my hands on some 'though (not mobile).

Safe to try the DeOxit in the meantime?
Your reply:
Sure, give it a go.
... and I did when the compressed-air thing didn't have any effect.

Did it by-the-book - squirt (using the supplied mini-straw) and jiggle (up, down, left and right), then a follow-up "cleaning" squirt a minute later.

The thing's basically seized-up now. I can't get it to register a move in any direction.

I can't believe my bad luck with this; I've not seen any other user here have a problem with the stick.

I don't have transport but am based in Melbourne, where IIRC you have a warehouse or something?

Please help Brother Rich!
 
@Sturdy
Try logitech rec settings on wheel and in game...
Race cars/race tires torque 4 sensitivity 3
Road cars sports tires T 5 S 3
Road cars comfort tires T6 S3.

I've used sensitivity at 10 since March but settled on 3 while testing the new physics. It reduced the oscillations on the straights while still giving me a decent amount of weight around center. Sensitivity on 1 felt very loose and vague around center and corner entry, especially with road cars. It ended up feeling overall better than sensitivity on 10 for me, and I wanted to like 10 more lol. It also ended up giving me the best lap times on both Road and race cars.

Try it out.
Sorry I'm not clear which wheel and in game settings you are using whem you wrote "Try logitech rec settings".

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Sorry I'm not clear which wheel and in game settings you are using whem you wrote "Try logitech rec settings".

Thanks


Use the settings for the game you use.

In GT7 controller settings I have settled on the what I posted. It's actually helping me improve in TTs.
 

Use the settings for the game you use.

In GT7 controller settings I have settled on the what I posted. It's actually helping me improve in TTs.
Thanks bud
 
Last edited:
Has anyone had issues with the G Pro disconnecting mid-race since the last update? I had it happen a few months back and updating the firmware seemed to fix it, but it's now back. Everything on PC works fine using the same USB cable, but now anywhere from a minute to 10-15 mins in to a session the wheel + pedals will disconnect and the on unit display does the three dot cycling like it's starting up.

Power cycling the wheel will bring it back, but within a few minutes it will disconnect again. No amount of PS5 reboots / unplugging seems to fix it.

Switched to PC and did an hour of AC without issues, back to PS5 and it disconnected within 5 minutes doing one of the weekly races. :(
 
Has anyone had issues with the G Pro disconnecting mid-race since the last update? I had it happen a few months back and updating the firmware seemed to fix it, but it's now back. Everything on PC works fine using the same USB cable, but now anywhere from a minute to 10-15 mins in to a session the wheel + pedals will disconnect and the on unit display does the three dot cycling like it's starting up.

Power cycling the wheel will bring it back, but within a few minutes it will disconnect again. No amount of PS5 reboots / unplugging seems to fix it.

Switched to PC and did an hour of AC without issues, back to PS5 and it disconnected within 5 minutes doing one of the weekly races. :(
Last night, my TF audio suddenly stopped working mid race in a vision gt car. I remember the latest patch notes mentioned they fixed this bug as the USB bandwidth was being overloaded however it reoccured for me, only has happened once though so could have been a once off.

However as for totally shutting down, this has never happened for me. I am using Ps5 too. Are you using a USB dongle to convert the wheel cable to USB-C? I would recommend removing any dongles, plug straight into the back of the PS5, else try a different USB port - also double check all your cables are in securely. The micro-USB connector that plugs into the back of the wheel can be tricky.
 
You probably already checked this, but are both ends of your power supply plugged in all the way?. I have that issue with my laptop power supply sometimes. My dc power into the supply looks plugged in but works its way loose from dragging the cord around. Never had that with the g pro but i secure my cords to the wheelstand. Not likely given it works on pc.
Also maybe test the usb-a outlet on your ps5 you use for the wheel with another usb device for 30+ minutes . Make sure theres nothing off on the ps5 side somehow
 
Last night, my TF audio suddenly stopped working mid race in a vision gt car. I remember the latest patch notes mentioned they fixed this bug as the USB bandwidth was being overloaded however it reoccured for me, only has happened once though so could have been a once off.

However as for totally shutting down, this has never happened for me. I am using Ps5 too. Are you using a USB dongle to convert the wheel cable to USB-C? I would recommend removing any dongles, plug straight into the back of the PS5, else try a different USB port - also double check all your cables are in securely. The micro-USB connector that plugs into the back of the wheel can be tricky.
Good point, I am using a USB extension that I didn't bother trying without. I'll also check the connection on the back of the wheel-base as well.
 
Has anyone had issues with the G Pro disconnecting mid-race since the last update? I had it happen a few months back and updating the firmware seemed to fix it, but it's now back. Everything on PC works fine using the same USB cable, but now anywhere from a minute to 10-15 mins in to a session the wheel + pedals will disconnect and the on unit display does the three dot cycling like it's starting up.

Power cycling the wheel will bring it back, but within a few minutes it will disconnect again. No amount of PS5 reboots / unplugging seems to fix it.

Switched to PC and did an hour of AC without issues, back to PS5 and it disconnected within 5 minutes doing one of the weekly races. :(
not sure if related, but tonight I had my FFB completely cut out while playing GT7 on PS5. I could still steer but the wheel went completely loose suddenly mid corner. Since I was doing a single player race I just paused and power cycled the wheel and it was all fine after that. I was driving a gr1 car on willow springs with the torque turned all the way up, not sure if that has anything to do with it
 
As of 2 hours ago I booted up GT7, and was missing full FFB. The maximum I was getting was around 7nm on the tight oval track in the USA using the SF19, where I go to test if the FFB is working.

I had to reconnect my Drive Hub to regain the full 11nm. Anyone else experienced this?
 
I faintly remember something about being able to change LED colours and name the profiles? I have updated the firmware recently, I couldn’t find anywhere to rename profiles. Was that ever a thing? It would be nice to be able to half GT7 (strong, medium, weak) PC2 and Wreckfest. Labelled in the wheel instead of Profile 1/2/3/4/5
 
Imagine mounting your g-pro to that 🤣. (First pic, not my stand)

Hey all, has anyone found any good casters/ feet for a wheel stand. I set it on an area rug in front of the couch to drive. (I know, not the best set up, but super comfy and comes with a cupholder 😁). I have to store the stand about 7 feet away on hardwood. So I have to be able to drag the stand from the hardwood to the carpet but still need it stable enough for braking. Also have to sit down and pull the stand into the driving position and push it away before standing up, but still able to brake on a 30kg LC. So need something I can lock from the seated position. I was maybe thinking like a kick drum foot on a drum kit. Cuz it's a rubber foot with a spike in the middle you can screw down into the carpet to hold. But I wouldn't be able to bend down to the front feet with the wheel in the driving position.

Any ideas?. The feet that came with the stand now have the metal innards poking through. I'd rather replace what came on it with something better, rather than the same that will need replacing in another year year and a half.

The feet that came on it (second pic) were good enough, like they were OK for braking. Just didn't last very long.

Any ideas are welcome. Or yeah the feet mount with a m8x25 or 30mm bolt x4 feet.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20240805_071401_Samsung Internet.jpg
    Screenshot_20240805_071401_Samsung Internet.jpg
    187.6 KB · Views: 8
  • 20240805_071710.jpg
    20240805_071710.jpg
    116.2 KB · Views: 7
  • Screenshot_20240805_071401_Samsung Internet.jpg
    Screenshot_20240805_071401_Samsung Internet.jpg
    187.6 KB · Views: 7
  • 20240805_071710.jpg
    20240805_071710.jpg
    116.2 KB · Views: 5
Was that ever a thing?
It was and still is as far as I know. I haven't updated the firmware yet (or G Hub) but I'm sure the option is still there. I've renamed all my profiles for different games and also had a go at adjusting the led colours and lighting permutations.
 
It was and still is as far as I know. I haven't updated the firmware yet (or G Hub) but I'm sure the option is still there. I've renamed all my profiles for different games and also had a go at adjusting the led colours and lighting permutations.
Thanks, it’s weird I didn’t see the option in G Hub. I’ll try and figure it out. Maybe I’ll redownload the software yet again haha
 
Thanks, it’s weird I didn’t see the option in G Hub. I’ll try and figure it out. Maybe I’ll redownload the software yet again haha
Without having it running I can't remember where the settings were. It was in amongst the G Pro options though. It opened up a section where there was a colour palette etc.


@Eegour would locking casters, perhaps with rubber wheels, be an option for you. You'd probably need to screw them on somehow, although your bolt holes might work.
 
Hello,

I have been using the G Pro wheel and pedals for about a year and a half now. I noticed that 2 USB cables (one that goes from the wheel base to PS5 and I believe the other one goes from the pedals to the wheel base) have a tear and the wires are exposed. I am afraid that they may get worse over time and lose connection. I did search the forum a bit and read about people replacing them with 1 cable, extension (seems like this is not recommended), and active USB repeater cable, etc... One of the comments said that he was able to get in touch with Logitech Support and have them send replacement cables. I have been trying to get in touch with the support via chat and phone but it connects to Sales every time and I was not able to get in touch with the G Pro Support. This has been a frustrating experience so far.

Is there a way to get in touch with G Pro support? What do I need to do to have them send or sell replacement cables. It appears these USB cables are prone to rip due to the weight of the ferrite chokes and I would really appreciate the Logitech's support on this. Any tips would be appreciated. I am located in the US.

Thank you.
 
Has something changed with the "power on" sequence for the PS5? On Saturday, I...

1. Turned on PS5
2. Loaded up GT7
3. Powered on Logitech Pro Wheel (red button)
4. The wheel started connecting and went right into calibration, and was automatically connected to the PS5.
5. Push PS button to connect controller (wheel) to game

Did something change? Before, the process was:

1. Turn on PS5
2. Load up GT7
3. Powered on Logitech Pro Wheel
4. Select PS5 by pushing inward on the MFD dial
5. Then the wheel would connect and go into calibration, and only then would be connected to the PS5.
6. Push PS button to connect controller (wheel) to game
 
Last edited:
Has something changed with the "power on" sequence for the PS5? On Saturday, I...

1. Turned on PS5
2. Loaded up GT7
3. Powered on Logitech Pro Wheel (red button)
4. The wheel started connecting and went right into calibration, and was automatically connected to the PS5.
5. Push PS button to connect controller (wheel) to game

Did something change? Before, the process was:

1. Turn on PS5
2. Load up GT7
3. Powered on Logitech Pro Wheel
4. Select PS5 by pushing inward on the MFD dial
5. Then the wheel would connect and go into calibration, and only then would be connected to the PS5.
6. Push PS button to connect controller (wheel) to game
I've had it since launch and have never had to use the MFD dial. The first steps you listed is how it has always worked??
 
Has something changed with the "power on" sequence for the PS5? On Saturday, I...

1. Turned on PS5
2. Loaded up GT7
3. Powered on Logitech Pro Wheel (red button)
4. The wheel started connecting and went right into calibration, and was automatically connected to the PS5.
5. Push PS button to connect controller (wheel) to game

Did something change? Before, the process was:

1. Turn on PS5
2. Load up GT7
3. Powered on Logitech Pro Wheel
4. Select PS5 by pushing inward on the MFD dial
5. Then the wheel would connect and go into calibration, and only then would be connected to the PS5.
6. Push PS button to connect controller (wheel) to game
I believe there is an option in the wheel menu to have it ask which mode you want at bootup or go right into your preferred mode. Since I use mine with both PS5 and PC regularly I have mine set to ask each time.
 
I believe there is an option in the wheel menu to have it ask which mode you want at bootup or go right into your preferred mode. Since I use mine with both PS5 and PC regularly I have mine set to ask each time.
Now that you mention it, I forgot that I went into the wheel setting and messed around with a few things the other day. I must have changed that setting. Thanks for your reply!
 
@IfAndOr yeah thats kinda of why im asking for suggestions. Hoping someone that has found something good or at least grippy yet still mobile, lol. It looks like a lot of the locking casters are more plasticy wheels, if i can find some good rubber ones with a decent size locking tab, i can probably contort my feet around the stand to lock and unlock as needed. Amazon canada options are pretty weak.
 
Back