Mad FinnTuners Co.™ - Finished 301010 with GT-Rdammerung - BIG THANKS everyone!

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Soon, an example of classical rivalry will be revealed. A tiny engine in a light chassis that can outrun more popular big displacement heavyweight monsters. It already did beat certain white coupe that has tremendous power.. And it also went around Nurb in slightly over 6'05'xxx. It has way less power than the two last releases, but it is a lot more enjoyable to drive. Stay tuned!
 
WOW!!! I just finished testing you F-tune R34 and it is awesome. There are a few points i want to adjust and hopefully get it better suited to my driving style. But all i can say is wow. Athough, I did have one little spat of brattyness it was good overall. even with on severe spin i beat my old laptime by less than a second.
 
Our policy is that if you wish to have a custom tune after making a review, you should adapt to the car we tuned as it is instead of tuning the car to your liking, since if you do the latter, it won't be the product we released after thorough tuning program..
 
Indeed, saying "there were a few things I didn't like so I changed it" without saying what those things were does not constitute a review.
 
The 350Z and the 700 McMerc SLR looks great, so I will give that a try. As well as the Dodge Viper with 1000hp, that sounds fun!
 
Our policy is that if you wish to have a custom tune after making a review, you should adapt to the car we tuned as it is instead of tuning the car to your liking, since if you do the latter, it won't be the product we released after thorough tuning program..

The only complaint i have is that if you hit the dirt the slightest bit is it tends to spin. atleast on me. Ive raced alot of GT-R's and this is by far the best i will admit. Even when i spun out i beat my tune's lap time by a little less than a second.
 
So, the problem isn't in the setup but it's in between the steeringwheel and drivers seat. And that expert badge is there for a reason, it is a tricky car to drive despite of the R-class tyres. IF you can keep it on the track, then the issue is probably gone.
 
BMW M3 RSR '03

622 bhp, 603 Nm, 1147 kg


Clickable for full size

Parts to fit:
Racing Exhaust
Racing Brakes
Brake Balance Controller
NA Tuning Stage 3
Port Polishing
Engine Balancing
Racing Chip
FC Transmission
Triple-plate Clutch
Racing Flywheel
FC LSD
Carbon Driveshaft
FC Suspension
R3 Tyres
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Oil Change
Rear Wing
New Wheels (optional)

Suspension
Spring Rate: 9.0 / 8.0
Ride Height: 100 / 110
Bound: 6 / 6
Rebound: 9 / 7
Camber: 2.0 / 2.0
Toe: -1 / -2
Stabilizers: 6 / 5

Brake Controller
Brakes: 5 / 5

Transmission

Note: First, reset the gearbox to the default settings, then set the Auto setting, and only then set the gear ratios.

Gear Ratios
1st: 3.098
2nd: 2.029
3rd: 1.500
4th: 1.200
5th: 1.000
6th: 0.819
Final Gear: 3.750

Autoset 21

LSD
Initial: 5
Acceleration: 30
Deceleration: 5

Downforce
Amount: 30 / 30

Driving Aids
ASM Oversteer: 0
ASM Understeer: 0
TCS: 0


Born from the evolution of my earlier M3 RS the M3 RSR is just about as top of the line as it gets. The slightly wheezy straight six has been replaced by a V8 and oddly the suspension setup seems to have gone backwards but the handling has gone forward so everything's fine on that front. Most of the tuning philosophy is explained in the RS so there's no need to repeat it. Fine tuning it took a lot more work than in the case of its precedessor but the result is a remarkably agile car when the starting point is taken into account. Should be easily good for sub 6'15 Nürburgring laps in the hands of a decent driver.

 
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So, the problem isn't in the setup but it's in between the steeringwheel and drivers seat. And that expert badge is there for a reason, it is a tricky car to drive despite of the R-class tyres. IF you can keep it on the track, then the issue is probably gone.

If thats the case then it prolly has something to do with the fact that im using a ds2 controller. But It is a very potent tuning and I will continue to try and get the hang of it with minimal adjustment. i havent touched any setting you have outlined. my only changes have been to the lsd and weight balance
 
my only changes have been to the lsd and weight balance

FAIL. Truly an epic one. Never, never ever, use a LSD on a GT-R or if you do don't come to tell me about any handling characteristics because there are none to be mentioned after that. It ruins the car completely. No wonder it handles a bit oddly!

You changed the car. It's not the 900R F-Tune anymore. How about you revert it to exactly to the specs you see in the post and try again? Either drive the cars as they are or don't bother at all, feedback based on your own tweaks is just that - feedback based on your own tweaks - and how do you think it helps us when we need feedback on our own tunes, not yours?

You've said you don't like cars that drive how the tuners like. Well, tough luck for you but every car drives like the designer wants and not like the buyer wants. If you don't like it, fine, but base your opinion on what the designer did instead of what you did because the designer has no idea on what you've done. It's like you buy a supercharged V8 car, swap in an NA straight four and then complain there's no power. The designer is utterly confused and for a very good reason at that because the car certainly had power when it left the shop. This is a similar thing - the car handles like it should, then you do Lord knows what to it and look, it has a handling problem. No way are we going to care because chances are the problem isn't caused by us and an LSD on a GT-R meets all the requirements for a serious problem. If it has a problem straight off our showroom floor we'll see about it.
 
^well Its never hurt my cars before and as i have just realized it is not on your parts list I have since removed it. as well as the other unneccesary parts that were present. It is handling a million times better. But with the attitude your giving me im sorry to say that im only trying to do to your tunings what you have done to Nissan and Every other companies tunings. They left something to be desired for you as they have for me. Yes i screwed up and had parts that werent needed and adjusted ones i did not see specified but was i wrong in trying to better the vehicle? Not at all. If your gonna call the kettle Black make sure your not the pot first.
 
^well Its never hurt my cars before

Correction, you never noticed because you never tried.

and as i have just realized it is not on your parts list I have since removed it. as well as the other unneccesary parts that were present. It is handling a million times better.

You're supposed to only do as the spec sheet says. Nothing more, nothing less.

But with the attitude your giving me im sorry to say that im only trying to do to your tunings what you have done to Nissan and Every other companies tunings. They left something to be desired for you as they have for me. Yes i screwed up and had parts that werent needed and adjusted ones i did not see specified but was i wrong in trying to better the vehicle? Not at all. If your gonna call the kettle Black make sure your not the pot first.

"Nissan and Every other companies tunings" (sic) aren't exactly tunes... They're baseline settings, yes, but if you notice something, they've ALL got 100% common dampers and camber angles and the biases seem to follow factory specs.

As for it being a "bad thing" to try and improve the vehicle... It's not, but all of us who do tuning here want to hear what's wrong with the car, not what you think fixes an unspecified problem. Especially not when you've got entirely the wrong parts on the car to start with!
 
Ok to be utterly honest I didnt read the parts list as i had all the parts available installed already. And yes i have tried gt-r's without lsd's and vcs's bc a skyline was my first car on gt4. It was a r34 mnp to be exact. at first my only mods were the exhaust and stage 2 turbo. And Most companies do tune their cars to an extant hence the exstensive R&D on almost every new model with the exception of the lowly little throw away cars(like the fiesta/festiva in the u.s.) as for the car its doing much better. I did 30 laps on my own and im having my b spec do tirty so i can compare my driving to its. I thank you for your hardwork in creating these tunings and I do appreciate the level of craftsmanship. Yes i screwed up with the parts list. I will openly admit it. Now if tempers can please lower and we can start with the constructive discusion of any problem areas. I would like to help you better this tune as much as you want to know what can be improved.
 
Ok to be utterly honest I didnt read the parts list as i had all the parts available installed already. And yes i have tried gt-r's without lsd's and vcs's bc a skyline was my first car on gt4. It was a r34 mnp to be exact. at first my only mods were the exhaust and stage 2 turbo. And Most companies do tune their cars to an extant hence the exstensive R&D on almost every new model with the exception of the lowly little throw away cars(like the fiesta/festiva in the u.s.)

My head has now been formally introduced to my desk.

Getting the parts wrong: On you. Nowhere does it say BUY EVERYTHING ZOMG LOL.

If you couldn't tell that the LSDs and VCDs were harming the car's capability, you're either an incredible driver or an incredible imbecile.

This final bit... I don't even know where to begin if I'm honest. It's both entirely irrelevant as the real suspension settings of the factory cars in many cases do not behave as they should due to some oversights in GT4's programming and nearly entirely wrong. Vehicles are built to a certain set of criteria; this includes NVH and ride quality concerns, and that generally means they're far from optimum for race use.
 
This final bit... I don't even know where to begin if I'm honest. It's both entirely irrelevant as the real suspension settings of the factory cars in many cases do not behave as they should due to some oversights in GT4's programming and nearly entirely wrong. Vehicles are built to a certain set of criteria; this includes NVH and ride quality concerns, and that generally means they're far from optimum for race use.

I do have One Question Why was the car raised in ride height. With the exception of rally I've never heard of rasing a car giving better handling performance on a track?
 
I generally do it to get more benefit from the weight transfer. A higher car has a larger centre of gravity movement under braking and acceleration, putting more weight where it's needed. Some cars drive better when lower (my M3 RS being a good example) but some see improvements when the ride height is increased. It also gives longer suspension travel which may prove useful, for example, when trying to put a lot of power to the road through the rear wheels. Such a situation needs softer springs and softer dampers to prevent overloading the tyres and those necessitate increasing suspension stroke so it won't bottom out.
 
^ ok i c now. I always found the desired effect by lowering and stiffening but sounds reasonable enough. There are a few tracks that my cars bottom out on. I assumed it was normal because the ai did to.
 
Mazda RX-7 V1 "Buzz Bomb"

641 bhp, 674 Nm, 1079 kg


Clickable for full size

Parts to fit:
Racing Exhaust
Racing Brakes
Brake Balance Controller
Port Polishing
Engine Balancing
Racing Chip
FC Transmission
Triple-plate Clutch
Racing Flywheel
FC LSD
Carbon Driveshaft
Turbo Kit Stage 4
Racing Intercooler
FC Suspension
R3 Tyres
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Oil Change
Rear Wing
New Wheels (optional)

Suspension
Spring Rate: 8.0 / 7.0
Ride Height: 115 / 140
Bound: 3 / 6
Rebound: 9 / 7
Camber: 2.0 / 2.0
Toe: 0 / -2
Stabilizers: 6 / 5

Brake Controller
Brakes: 6 / 6

Transmission

Note: First, reset the gearbox to the default settings, then set the Auto setting, and only then set the gear ratios.

Gear Ratios
1st: 2.406
2nd: 1.619
3rd: 1.232
4th: 0.984
5th: 0.819
6th: 0.687
Final Gear: 4.200

Autoset 18

LSD
Initial: 5
Acceleration: 17
Deceleration: 10

Downforce
Amount: 30 / 30

Driving Aids
ASM Oversteer: 0
ASM Understeer: 0
TCS: 0



First it sounds like a distant whistle. It grows in intensity until it reminds a Stuka-bombers howl, threatening to puncture your eardrums with it's high-pitched wailing. Then it passes you, in a blur of red and black, sound deepening into steady buzz which reminds a pulse jet engines soundtrack. Fear not, this isn't London in the early 1940's, it's MFT's test track and the infernal sound is produced by a little engine that could. The car is one of the last Mazda RX-7's that rolled out of the production line in 2002, representing the top notch Spirit R package.
The car was fast as it was, but we felt that it could be faster, sharper and lighter. Thus, we got to work and combined our knowledge of what could be done to the suspension and what not to make this tiny coupe faster.
And did it get faster by a factor of ten? Why yes, it indeed did.
With modest 641bhp at the wheels, it out-accelerated and handled Grim R34per and a pile of other more powerful cars that we've released earlier. It is easy to drive until you ask full 100% or more, then it probably will bite your head off without a warning. And this is how it got its nickname "V1 Buzz Bomb".

 
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How come? More power, more controllable, and it's pretty close to the higher end of the rev band where it is needed. Are you hinting that I should had done the usual "OMG I can has lvl5 Turbo? Must have!" route?
 
RJ is presumably referring to the better torque. Instinctively, I'd go for original at GVS etc, and stage 4 at the 'ring and Sarthe.

That's a beautiful looking tune and great lap. I'll definitely set this one up, and review it if I get the time. I've got a few Bathurst 10km specials, and might try it on that as well.

My garage is like an MFT archive, I've got over 50 cars with the first tune as yours, and the next two as my attempts at getting near them.
 
Better torque? Yes, perhaps, but the low speed cornering would had suffered from that when there would had been too much torque for use, and that would had necessitated taller gearing, which would had brought the advantage near to nothing.
 
Neither version is absolutely better if the gearing is set up properly and the driver knows how to use those gears. On GVS there are a few exceptions where the revs drop to around 5000 (and there's still some shortage of grip despite the lower torque) but for the most time the engine is running between 6000 and 7500 rpm which is represented by the two blue verticals, I occasionally redlined it to about 7750 rpm which is the red vertical.

Stage 4 represented by the solid curves, Stage 5 by the dotted ones.

 
Thanks a ton for that graph.

Brings up a few points of interest that I'm going to have to think about for a bit... Mostly regarding my drag testing.
 
Looks solid ill have to try it when i get a chance. Edit#1 Question: how did you get you wing in red?
Edit #2 Very well done guys. I love it on fuji 80's!!! I had a smile from ear to ear after the first lap. At first I questioned some of the tuning decisions made on this car but it inexplicably works beautifully. I love it.
 
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They didn't get the wing in red, he used photoshop.

Hey Greycap, I've forgotten already but you have a PS3 right? Just asking what with GT5 right around the corner and all.
 
@ Paulie: quoting from Leo on Aug 30:
Yes, we will move on to GT5 as soon as it arrives, but we'll leave GT4 behind with a pair of cars that have a special spot in our collections. while they might not be the fastest or most scary to drive, they're special to each of us. One of them will require some photographic improvements due to ugly OEM equipment, but that is as much as I can say.
And, like RJ, I'd like to thank Greycap for the graph. It's challenged some long-held assumptions about that car (and tuning in general) and I too will have to test some different setups.
 
I just tried your blackbird evo and Yet again it was amazing. I did however make one small snafu but it actually improved the car. I forgot to set my downforce so i ran my first 10 laps w/o any downforce. When i realized this i restarted with downforce and It wasnt bad but I lost a full 2 seconds at fuji 80's when i set the d-force to your specs. I lovethis car. The Blackbird(or in my case White Dove. I had a white one and didnt feel like buying a new one. lol) and the buzz bomb will now be my two main grip racers.
 
If you were able to drive it correctly the downforce would've helped.

If you can't combat its extreme want to kill you, it'll be slow due to the corrections needed to keep it on line with the downforce.

Reducing the front downforce slightly while keeping full rear downforce will reduce its want to snap oversteer noticeably while still keeping most of the pace however.
 
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