Master List of Cars With Incorrect Specifications

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Fantastic post, Enzo Guy. I have to say, I agree. The figures quoted were just an illustration to evidence that the GT5 version is not a GT350R. I did some research on the subject myself, and there isn't any solid figure on the actual specs of the R version.

I don't suspect you will, you have to look elsewhere (as is quite often the case for muscle cars, sometimes other cars can give you clues). I seriously doubt the fanboy types are going to argue with me here (unlike other unnamed websites), so I'll just be blunt.

Shelby was busy with a lot of stuff, he was yanking his Cobras out of the SCCA, the Daytona and MKIII were being built for the FIA, so the engines were likely similar to those in the old Cobras since they already were legal in the SCCA and proven winners. Though based on the SCCA Cobra racing engines, they would have likely received the same improvements as the Daytona for an extra kick under the hood to cope with that new 350 in the Corvette. You're looking at 390hp conservatively and 420hp would have been possible even without the Paxton; it's going to peak somewhere at or above 7500rpm, I wouldn't believe anything over 8500rpm for peak or redline. I personally would lean more conservative and stay 390-400hp, these were endurance racers so they wouldn't have wanted things too high-strung or else they risk mechanical failures. Than again, Shelby's reputation was to run until it blows so I'm 50.50 as to whether he would've cared about durability. That Daytona coupe clocked 180mph (190+ by some accounts) on a public road in England, that'd be about 400hp even so it's a fair assumption that the GT350R was using a nearly identical motor.:yup:

So, what do we make it in GT5? After significant testing of muscle cars, the old bias-ply tires would have fallen somewhere right near comfort soft in straight line performance.

Original GT350 1/4-mile: 14.9@95mph
Original GT350R 1/4-mile time: 12.9@110mph
Ballast: I added 140kg to account for fuel and driver
GT5 GT350R #1: all stock, engine rebuild, 317hp/341ft-lbs, 1268kg+140kg
GT5 GT350R #2: lots of parts, stage 2 engine, stage 1 Jenny Craig, varying power for test, 1166kg+140kg

GT350R #1 (street version):
First up I nabbed a 14.662 so I limited it down to 306hp and got a 14.768. Pretty close, I'm guessing the real life test car had a couple extra pounds in it, otherwise it's obviously the street version.

GT350R #2 (the real deal):
Other parts I threw on was just the racing exhaust (moves peak power up in the rev range), landing the car at 397hp/394ft-lbs. My instincts tell me the competition version was likely run on much stickier tires; 400hp ain't gettin' any 12.9 unless that car weighed a lot less then 2600lbs or it had some good slicks, which I've found older slicks to be a hair slower than racing hard tires. I got a 13.151 and 3 more runs were all in the 13.1-13.2 range. I threw on the ECU (again moves power, now peak is at 6700rpm) and now I've got 417hp/401ft-lbs, first try was a 12.916 so I'd say that's about as good as I'm looking for.

As it pertains to GT5 (and no reflection on its true specs), to achieve true GT350R performance go for stage 1 weight reduction, stage 2 engine, ECU, and racing exhaust!

Just for the hell of it I'll see if it can match the Daytona's top end. Daytona gears are 2.32/1.69/1.29/1.00 with 3.09 out back, obviously I won't be using 5th. Same tires with those gears hit 178.8mph, given the Daytona was a little lighter and more aerodynamic this also seems to be pretty close to the GT350R's real number. So there you go, in GT5 it equates to about 417hp and 1166kg.

Don't even get me started on the Cobra! The actual 427 medium-riser was pushing 480-510hp around 6500rpm (ECU and racing exhaust are a pretty good way to replicate that), although there was also the 428 Police Interceptor you've probably never heard much about (far more intensive to replicate, but interested parties should look into the history of the Cobra 428). There's also another possibility: in '65 Chrysler whined (McLaren learned from them) to NASCAR and got Ford's new 427 SOHC "Cammer" banned along with their own Hemi by mistake (Ford doesn't care because they're too busy trying to win Le Mans). Most, if not all, of the NASCAR engines were built and ready to ship, leaving Ford and Chrysler with stocks of hand-built monsters; these were sold under the table through well-connected performance dealerships and many found their way into street-legal cars. There have been rumors that one or two Cobras actually left the factory with a Cammer (would've been 650-700hp at 7500rpm) under the hood, although I don't know if any modifications would have been necessary for hood clearance. But as you can see, we aren't even out of Shelby territory and we're already up to our ears in possibilities of what could go where!
 
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'Enzo_Guy' Loving your posts and I am going to look into the Cobra 427 a little bit more. Very lovely looking car and one of my all time favorites even if it was a financial failure (I think that is what makes some cars loved all the more)..

I only know the very basics that most of us all know but to be honest if I ever had the money for one I'm sorry to say it would be a replica AC 289 (the best in my eyes (more controllable))

Only say replica cause I could never get my hands on a real one, yet alone afford one lol


Not sure if you have looked at many replicas but Dax makes a very Cobra, Probably a hell of a lot better than the originals too lol.
 
'Enzo_Guy' Loving your posts and I am going to look into the Cobra 427 a little bit more. Very lovely looking car and one of my all time favorites even if it was a financial failure (I think that is what makes some cars loved all the more)..

I only know the very basics that most of us all know but to be honest if I ever had the money for one I'm sorry to say it would be a replica AC 289 (the best in my eyes (more controllable))

Only say replica cause I could never get my hands on a real one, yet alone afford one lol


Not sure if you have looked at many replicas but Dax makes a very Cobra, Probably a hell of a lot better than the originals too lol.

Factory Five and Superformance are probably the biggest names in Cobra replicas, besides Shelby themselves of course! I'm no expert on Cobra replicas, to be honest I want to like the MKIII 427 cars but they have developed such a stigma through the years that I can't do it. And no I'm not just car bashing here, I know first-hand what it can do, they're just too flashy in a 13-year-old's bedroom poster kind of way. Very similar to a Countach, absolutely stunning, very fast, cool story, love the cars, would NEVER spend the money for one! That's just the MKIII 427 car though, high-winding 289 FIA-style kit car is speaking my language! I remember running into a group of Cobras parked at a show, one lonely 289 model at the end, got talking to the guy about the history and such, turns out it wasn't a kit. Jaw met floor, it was the REAL DEAL (true MKII FIA with the side pipes, not the slab side car) and he nice enough to let me sit in it!:ill: Only time I've ever seen a true Shelby CSX chassis, I got to hear that thing leave and there's just nothing quite like a high-strung 289 (imagine my shock when he romped on it leaving, must have hit 6000rpm easy, no game/video can come close to that sound and the way it sends chills up your spine).

On the subject of replicas, absolutely buy a replica! Spend $500,000-$1,000,000 for a car that you're going to let sit in your garage or spend $50,000 or so on an almost identical one you can drive as much as you'd like without fear of ruining collector value. The only numbers matching thing in my garage is a John Deere!:sly: Only car older than 1980 I've owned that was numbers matching was a '78 Trans Am with an auto, 3.08 gears, and a Pontiac 400 (not the Olds 403, I'm a Ford and Pontiac guy, I wouldn't take anything less than the real deal Pontiac block). Here I am in high school, all my friends drive their farm trucks and old beaters, I'm rolling around in a '78 Trans Am, the Burt Reynolds Bandit car and not that '79 wannabe, and it had freakin' t-tops man! Sold it and never owned another automatic car since.

If I were to do a kit it'd be either a Ford GT40 or RS200, the FIA Cobra would be my choice of Shelby but I like those two Fords more. I have a friend who got a Superformance (great quality car) that he originally put together with a true 427 motor that cost him a pretty penny. The thing had enough acceleration to suck your face off, and keep in mind I went to school years ago for building race cars, I've been in some very fast cars, on the street that Cobra is on a different level entirely! The problem is it handled like it had a boat anchor in front, it's just too big of an engine for a car that small; he's since sold it and paid half as much for a 351 small-block (he was talking stroker last time I saw him). With today's modern technology, leave the old expensive 427 to the guys who just want the originality, the going fast can be done better and cheaper. Want to see what that car's going to be like? Take a '66 Shelby Cobra, install stage 3 weight reduction for 918kg, now place 80kg of ballast at the +50 position (yeah that's by the skin of my teeth to the EXACT 1kg difference between the engines and their weight distribution, I lightened one up just now and didn't think it was going to make it). Now install engine stage 3, the 427 made 500hp and he was saying since he's doing it all again he wants at least 550hp this time, I'm going to have to try that car here soon.
 
Did the Spyker's handling change with the 1.10 update? Because I'm curious if it was simply a labeling issue, or an actual drivetrain screw-up.
 
Factory Five and Superformance are probably the biggest names in Cobra replicas, besides Shelby themselves of course! I'm no expert on Cobra replicas, to be honest I want to like the MKIII 427 cars but they have developed such a stigma through the years that I can't do it. And no I'm not just car bashing here, I know first-hand what it can do, they're just too flashy in a 13-year-old's bedroom poster kind of way. Very similar to a Countach, absolutely stunning, very fast, cool story, love the cars, would NEVER spend the money for one! That's just the MKIII 427 car though, high-winding 289 FIA-style kit car is speaking my language! I remember running into a group of Cobras parked at a show, one lonely 289 model at the end, got talking to the guy about the history and such, turns out it wasn't a kit. Jaw met floor, it was the REAL DEAL (true MKII FIA with the side pipes, not the slab side car) and he nice enough to let me sit in it!:ill: Only time I've ever seen a true Shelby CSX chassis, I got to hear that thing leave and there's just nothing quite like a high-strung 289 (imagine my shock when he romped on it leaving, must have hit 6000rpm easy, no game/video can come close to that sound and the way it sends chills up your spine).

On the subject of replicas, absolutely buy a replica! Spend $500,000-$1,000,000 for a car that you're going to let sit in your garage or spend $50,000 or so on an almost identical one you can drive as much as you'd like without fear of ruining collector value. The only numbers matching thing in my garage is a John Deere!:sly: Only car older than 1980 I've owned that was numbers matching was a '78 Trans Am with an auto, 3.08 gears, and a Pontiac 400 (not the Olds 403, I'm a Ford and Pontiac guy, I wouldn't take anything less than the real deal Pontiac block). Here I am in high school, all my friends drive their farm trucks and old beaters, I'm rolling around in a '78 Trans Am, the Burt Reynolds Bandit car and not that '79 wannabe, and it had freakin' t-tops man! Sold it and never owned another automatic car since.

If I were to do a kit it'd be either a Ford GT40 or RS200, the FIA Cobra would be my choice of Shelby but I like those two Fords more. I have a friend who got a Superformance (great quality car) that he originally put together with a true 427 motor that cost him a pretty penny. The thing had enough acceleration to suck your face off, and keep in mind I went to school years ago for building race cars, I've been in some very fast cars, on the street that Cobra is on a different level entirely! The problem is it handled like it had a boat anchor in front, it's just too big of an engine for a car that small; he's since sold it and paid half as much for a 351 small-block (he was talking stroker last time I saw him). With today's modern technology, leave the old expensive 427 to the guys who just want the originality, the going fast can be done better and cheaper. Want to see what that car's going to be like? Take a '66 Shelby Cobra, install stage 3 weight reduction for 918kg, now place 80kg of ballast at the +50 position (yeah that's by the skin of my teeth to the EXACT 1kg difference between the engines and their weight distribution, I lightened one up just now and didn't think it was going to make it). Now install engine stage 3, the 427 made 500hp and he was saying since he's doing it all again he wants at least 550hp this time, I'm going to have to try that car here soon.

you want original spec cobra or gt40 replica look here http://www.erareplicas.com/
 
Did the Spyker's handling change with the 1.10 update? Because I'm curious if it was simply a labeling issue, or an actual drivetrain screw-up.

If you're referring to the FR/MR confusion, that's actually been around since GT4.

Oh, and of course ERA! I'm slight upset with myself for forgetting them, they make some amazing cars!👍
 
Enzo_Guy
Factory Five and Superformance are probably the biggest names in Cobra replicas, besides Shelby themselves of course! I'm no expert on Cobra replicas, to be honest I want to like the MKIII 427 cars but they have developed such a stigma through the years that I can't do it. And no I'm not just car bashing here, I know first-hand what it can do, they're just too flashy in a 13-year-old's bedroom poster kind of way. Very similar to a Countach, absolutely stunning, very fast, cool story, love the cars, would NEVER spend the money for one! That's just the MKIII 427 car though, high-winding 289 FIA-style kit car is speaking my language! I remember running into a group of Cobras parked at a show, one lonely 289 model at the end, got talking to the guy about the history and such, turns out it wasn't a kit. Jaw met floor, it was the REAL DEAL (true MKII FIA with the side pipes, not the slab side car) and he nice enough to let me sit in it!:ill: Only time I've ever seen a true Shelby CSX chassis, I got to hear that thing leave and there's just nothing quite like a high-strung 289 (imagine my shock when he romped on it leaving, must have hit 6000rpm easy, no game/video can come close to that sound and the way it sends chills up your spine).

On the subject of replicas, absolutely buy a replica! Spend $500,000-$1,000,000 for a car that you're going to let sit in your garage or spend $50,000 or so on an almost identical one you can drive as much as you'd like without fear of ruining collector value. The only numbers matching thing in my garage is a John Deere!:sly: Only car older than 1980 I've owned that was numbers matching was a '78 Trans Am with an auto, 3.08 gears, and a Pontiac 400 (not the Olds 403, I'm a Ford and Pontiac guy, I wouldn't take anything less than the real deal Pontiac block). Here I am in high school, all my friends drive their farm trucks and old beaters, I'm rolling around in a '78 Trans Am, the Burt Reynolds Bandit car and not that '79 wannabe, and it had freakin' t-tops man! Sold it and never owned another automatic car since.

If I were to do a kit it'd be either a Ford GT40 or RS200, the FIA Cobra would be my choice of Shelby but I like those two Fords more. I have a friend who got a Superformance (great quality car) that he originally put together with a true 427 motor that cost him a pretty penny. The thing had enough acceleration to suck your face off, and keep in mind I went to school years ago for building race cars, I've been in some very fast cars, on the street that Cobra is on a different level entirely! The problem is it handled like it had a boat anchor in front, it's just too big of an engine for a car that small; he's since sold it and paid half as much for a 351 small-block (he was talking stroker last time I saw him). With today's modern technology, leave the old expensive 427 to the guys who just want the originality, the going fast can be done better and cheaper. Want to see what that car's going to be like? Take a '66 Shelby Cobra, install stage 3 weight reduction for 918kg, now place 80kg of ballast at the +50 position (yeah that's by the skin of my teeth to the EXACT 1kg difference between the engines and their weight distribution, I lightened one up just now and didn't think it was going to make it). Now install engine stage 3, the 427 made 500hp and he was saying since he's doing it all again he wants at least 550hp this time, I'm going to have to try that car here soon.

Your posts are very entertaining to read ;)
 
3) Apart from gear/final-drive ratios, is the tyre's overall diameter taken into account when converting rpm to wheel speed?
Maybe PD got some diameters wrong when it appears that the ratios are correct.

Actually, I have some unpublished test results that would explain it. What tires were you using?

There's actually a noticeable difference in diameter even across different compounds. In an unmodified '69 Camaro I achieved 113mph top speed on comfort hard tires and that ranged to 117mph on racing soft; there's no doubt that a 4mph difference at those speeds would mean a much larger difference for cars exceeding 200mph. Also note that PD calculates tire height, at least from my results with several cars, on a loaded diameter (meaning weight of the compressing the sidewalls) and it might end up a bit smaller than indicated on a spec sheet.
 
Interesting to know.

I used sport hards (SH) for the Lambo since they are the specified 'stock'.

I remember trying out a premo XKR in arcade with CS and SH and both touched 321 KPH at the end of Route X's 2nd straight.

(Going to v-max a stock LP560-4 on CH and RS to see the effect later.)
 
Just thought i'd mention this:
Both the Audi R10 TDi and the Peugeot 908 HDi FAP are able to rev to 7000 RPM when in reality the could do no more than 5500 rpm.

Sources:
http://www.mulsannescorner.com/juhaAudiR10.html
http://www.greencarcongress.com/2006/06/audi_r10_tdi_di.html
http://www.automobilsport.com/24h-l...ay-race-grid-sarrazin-wurz-klien---39067.html

I believe its been mentioned somewhere that all of the lmp cars in GT5 have their engines retuned to a scenario of "what if these cars didnt have power restrictors" hence the higher rpm range and huge horsepower compared to thei real life counterparts.

Though they seem to have left the R10 alone...This i find strange. Because of this, the R10 is among the slowest of lmp cars and actually has more in common performance wise to the GT1 cars of 15 years ago. I guess this has been fixed with the audi R10 stealth model, but im not sure if this completely fixes the problem. In reality, the R10 should not only outlast the older cars like it did before the tire mechanics update, but it should also be slightly faster. The R10 has either been left out of the engine retuning or this is actually the real, max power the R10 could provide.

The 908 also makes it's real horsepower figures in the game, though its been noted that it actually doesnt need more power and probably couldnt work in this game with anymore, given the huge amounts of torque already provided. They have tampered with the engine for a higher rpm range, as you said.
 
It appears the Premium Mustang's weight distrobution is incorrect. The game shows 65% front, while I have found sources with ~53-55%. One of which was wiki where it is stated in a comparison between the GT and the GT500 which is at ~57%.


I was able to get close to a realistic balance after adding full ballast to the rear and Stage 2 Mr. Clean. 1830 to 1601 with said balance, with 415 hp is fuuun:scared:
 
Ferrari 599 gtb

Gt5 specs
611 hp
448.43 ft/lb of torque
1580 kg

Real life specs
620 hp
448 ft/lb of torque
1700 kg
 
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I forgot to report back!

The Gallardo's overall final drive is definitely too low even with the race tyre trick. Speed was unchanged.

About improperly modeled transmissions:

I think that in the case of premiums, almost all automatic cars can be added.

If not, how about:
1) The Audi RS6 and all the DSG TT models

2) The Lolvo Volvo C30

3) Many others

R&T confirms that the Lexus IS-F should blip on downshifts but it does not in GT5.

(Recalling my theory about giving cars the wrong transmission type so that they will blip on downshifts. A misjudged fix or laziness you think?)

Also, how are SMGs differentiated from manuals? Should they creep at standstills like autos and DSGs or simply disallow use of the clutch pedal?
 
I believe its been mentioned somewhere that all of the lmp cars in GT5 have their engines retuned to a scenario of "what if these cars didnt have power restrictors" hence the higher rpm range and huge horsepower compared to thei real life counterparts.
Those direct injection turbo diesel engines couldn't go any higher than around 5500 rpm without incurring in serious damage, no matter what retuning they underwent (even if fantasy). Their peak power should have been at around 4500-4700 rpm, which is already quite high by normal standards for these engines.

Some tractor pull/drag racing diesel engines can reach somewhat higher rpm (6000 rpm or even 6500 rpm in extreme cases) at the cost of burning efficiency (most of the injected fuel is exhausted unburnt as dense nubes of black soot) and especially reliability.

PD simply doesn't know how to model correctly diesel engines. In Japan essetially only mid-size or larger trucks have them, and this could explain why.
 
Also, how are SMGs differentiated from manuals? Should they creep at standstills like autos and DSGs or simply disallow use of the clutch pedal?

For the latter, yes. SMG is just the BMW term for it (that I use because it's easy for me to remember the acronym means); but Ferrari's F1 system is pretty much the same. Basically, it's just a manual transmission where the engine computer controls the clutch to allow much faster shift times, and you can (usually) only shift sequentially. Many of them don't even have an automatic mode where it shifts for you.


As far as the first part, I would assume there wasn't any creep, since it is mechanically pretty much the same as a regular manual. But having not driven one, I don't know.




Car: 2000 Vauxhall VX220 Turbo

GT5 Specifications
Weight: 1005kg
Power: 201 HP
Torque: 187 lb.ft.

Real Life Specifications
Weight: 930kg
Power: 200 HP
Torque: 184 lb.ft.

Linky.
 
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Googled about 'creep' for a while and it seems that SMGs like the M5's, LFA's and e-gear/R-tronic don't creep if no pedal is touched on level ground. Owners suspect that clutches are still engaged but are slipping inside like nobody's business and wearing out.

I also confirmed that VW's DSG creeps like a normal auto without driver input. (Edit: As does MP4-12C's and SLS AMG.)

In that case, I will pretend my Lambos can magically switch between e-gear and gated manuals as I please.
(Bonus feature, not an incorrect specification. :dopey:)
 
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Bugatti Veyron - In real life, the gearbox would have (and has in the past) allowed it to reach 254mph. In game, the Veyron hits the rev limiter in 7th gear at 249mph.
 
Not sure if this one has already been mentioned, but I didn't see it in the OP.

The Toyota Corolla Levin GT-APEX '83 and it's body variant the Sprinter Trueno GT-APEX '83 both have an incorrect weight distribution, in the game they both have a stock weight balance of 60%(front)/40%(rear).
Where as the real car according to this website states the weight distribution should be 53/47

Which is quite a difference and drastically effects how the car handles. I'm now wondering how many other cars in this car come with incorrect weight distribution as standard.

Im pretty sure the Nissan 180sx Type X / 200sx / 240sx variants also have incorrect weight balance as they also come with a 60/40 distribution and i'm sure the real car is much closer to being 55/45 but I havn't found any where to clarify that yet, and that is'nt the only thing wrong with this particular car and it's variants but they are already listed in here I belive.
 
Is anyone positive the R390 GT1 road car has the correct gearing? I'm attempting to build a replica thats a lot closer to the real life road car, and from the info im gathering, the gt5 car has:

About 200 less horses
Some 60-70kg heavier
anywhere from a 40-50mph less top speed

There are 2 existing road cars, and im pretty sure theyre both built to the same spec, unless im missing something.
 
As I just randomly found this and than remembered that the Miura is mentioned in this thread, it seems like the original Miura weight is the one used in GT5? Instead of the P400S I mean?

(see: Miura - Performances and Miura P400S - Dimensions, weight)
 
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Car: 2002 Mini Cooper

GT5 Specifications
Weight: 1115kg
Power: 115HP
Torque: 152Nm

Real Life Specifications See here complete data sheet
Weight: 1125kg (from my own registration book)
Power: 85kW (around 114-115HP, GT5 is correct here)
Torque: 149Nm (4.500 rpm)
 
As for gearboxes, I started to do this, but I need a bit of help and the source I'm using is updated only till Mazdas. It is a bit of a pain to find proper informations on the internet. I still cannot be sure this site is 100% correct, cause it says my car has drum brakes in the rear, when I have discs. But at least there are specifications here.

Check out my work: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1UNpLR0875pXExyvUMFQEe2-8PAq1yPsmUGd5W0dY-bQ/edit
 
Car: '93 Alfa Romeo 155 2.5 V6 TI

GT5 Specifications
Weight: 1010 KG
Power: 421 HP
Torque: 299 Nm

Real-life Specifications (Source)
Weight: 1100 KG
Power: 420 BHP
Torque: 294 Nm

1100kgs may have been the weight including the driver which was how the regulations may have worked. GT5 does not include driver weights in it's figures. This may apply to a lot of racing car spec differences and also road car spec when various bodies include driver weights to their official figures.
 
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