Motor City Tunes GT6

[Lionheart2113]

X-Bow Tuning Notes

I thought that I would open up my tuning notes due to a recent question in the forums. This is how I approach building a tune from scratch.

1. Default settings (not PDs, my own)
2. Transmission
3. LSD tuning
4. Ballast tuning
5. Springs
6. Dampers
7. Toe and camber
8. Fine tuning, usually one more time through most settings trying up or down a few numbers based upon my tuning guide.

My Default Setting:
Ride Height 75/75 (stock)
Springs 4.00/8.50 (stock)
Dampers Compression 3/3 (stock)
Dampers Extension 3/3 (stock)
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3 (stock)
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake balance 5/5
LSD 12/12/12
Ballast 0
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 40:60

Massive exit oversteer, starting right after weight transfer and gets increasingly worse all the way through corner exit. It does not seem to be totally throttle induced. Even on high speed corners where exit leads to a slower corner, so little throttle is applied, the condition is there. The car is a terrible drive and out of control.

- Camber to 1.5/1.5 = I tested this just because of the new 1.09 physics. Camber did little to help the situation. The car is so terrible that I cannot tell if camber made things worse or just kept things just as awful.

- LSD to 14/10/15 = a car that I can almost drive without spinning out. This was a big improvement, but the car is still way to easy to lose the rear from mid-corner to exit.

- Ballast from 0@0 to 50kg at -35 position and 42:48 weight distribution = This is enough tuning to easily gold this time trial event. I can now complete laps with the car but with very little confidence on corner exit. The rear still kicks out passing mid-corner, but with just LSD and Ballast tuned, I can at least catch the car when in misbehaves.

- Springs to 5.00/8.00 looking for less mid-corner steering and more rear grip = this helped the exit oversteer problem, but hurt turn in and mid-corner. The car now has an ok entry, a lazy push mid-corner and still has exit oversteer.

- Springs to 4.50/8.00 and dampers adjusted to DC 4/2 and DE 4/4 = a car that I can now push hard. A little tame on entry and still loose on exit but very driveable.

- Fine tuning over a series of runs - LSD to 15/9/15, DC 3/2, DE 4/5, ARB 3/2 and toe to 0.0/+0.10 = A pretty good car, but still with that bad habit of very late corner exit oversteer. If this tune is going to be really fast, it needs help late exit.

- Toe to +0.10/+0.12 = as I expected, the positive front toe number made the car more aggressive on corner entry and more tame on corner exit. The increase in positive rear toe also helped rear grip once weight had transferred. These settings still work the same 1.08 and 1.09.

- Toe to +0.12/+0.15 = more of the same in the right direction. Over this amount was starting to create a little understeer mid-corner. This setting will probably remain the best.

- Looking to gain late corner exit rear grip without hurting entry and mid-corner.

- LSD to 15/8/15 = This LSD change really helped calm the exit oversteer. There is still some. I also kind of lost a little steering mid-corner to late exit. Need to get that back.

-Dampers to DC 3/2, DE to 4/6, ARB to 4/2 = attempting to hold both front and rear down to keep the good behavior from mid-corner working all the way through exit. This did exactly what I wanted in the medium speed and high speed corners, but it really hurt the low speed corners with additional exit oversteer.

- Damper DE to 4/7, ARB back to 3/2 = a strong car now and pretty fun to drive. A bit of helpful lift off drift into the corner, but it can catch you out.

-Ride height to 70/75 = as expected, reduced front grip which calmed down the exit oversteer issue. RH seems to work as programmed, but backward to real world physics.

- Ride Height to 72/75 = spot on.

- LSD to 15/8/17 = made the entry drift more in control. It is still useful to gain car rotation, but it is faster because you are able to drive more smoothly.

- Brake Balance to 6/5 = just to calm it a little more on entry.

That's it. This is where I am stopping with this tune. It is fast and fun to drive and the settings are no longer bringing back significant gains.

Questions or comments?

Your tuning guides keep getting better and better, and this proves it! Great new way of describing and it allows people the chance to go step by step with you, if they choose, and be able to learn what you are talking about by feeling what the car is actually doing at that particular phase of tuning.👍

 

[Pete05]

X-Bow Tuning Notes

I thought that I would open up my tuning notes due to a recent question in the forums. This is how I approach building a tune from scratch.

1. Default settings (not PDs, my own)
2. Transmission
3. LSD tuning
4. Ballast tuning
5. Springs
6. Dampers
7. Toe and camber
8. Fine tuning, usually one more time through most settings trying up or down a few numbers based upon my tuning guide.

My Default Setting:
Ride Height 75/75 (stock)
Springs 4.00/8.50 (stock)
Dampers Compression 3/3 (stock)
Dampers Extension 3/3 (stock)
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3 (stock)
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake balance 5/5
LSD 12/12/12
Ballast 0
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 40:60

Massive exit oversteer, starting right after weight transfer and gets increasingly worse all the way through corner exit. It does not seem to be totally throttle induced. Even on high speed corners where exit leads to a slower corner, so little throttle is applied, the condition is there. The car is a terrible drive and out of control.

- Camber to 1.5/1.5 = I tested this just because of the new 1.09 physics. Camber did little to help the situation. The car is so terrible that I cannot tell if camber made things worse or just kept things just as awful.

- LSD to 14/10/15 = a car that I can almost drive without spinning out. This was a big improvement, but the car is still way to easy to lose the rear from mid-corner to exit.

- Ballast from 0@0 to 50kg at -35 position and 42:48 weight distribution = This is enough tuning to easily gold this time trial event. I can now complete laps with the car but with very little confidence on corner exit. The rear still kicks out passing mid-corner, but with just LSD and Ballast tuned, I can at least catch the car when in misbehaves.

- Springs to 5.00/8.00 looking for less mid-corner steering and more rear grip = this helped the exit oversteer problem, but hurt turn in and mid-corner. The car now has an ok entry, a lazy push mid-corner and still has exit oversteer.

- Springs to 4.50/8.00 and dampers adjusted to DC 4/2 and DE 4/4 = a car that I can now push hard. A little tame on entry and still loose on exit but very driveable.

- Fine tuning over a series of runs - LSD to 15/9/15, DC 3/2, DE 4/5, ARB 3/2 and toe to 0.0/+0.10 = A pretty good car, but still with that bad habit of very late corner exit oversteer. If this tune is going to be really fast, it needs help late exit.

- Toe to +0.10/+0.12 = as I expected, the positive front toe number made the car more aggressive on corner entry and more tame on corner exit. The increase in positive rear toe also helped rear grip once weight had transferred. These settings still work the same 1.08 and 1.09.

- Toe to +0.12/+0.15 = more of the same in the right direction. Over this amount was starting to create a little understeer mid-corner. This setting will probably remain the best.

- Looking to gain late corner exit rear grip without hurting entry and mid-corner.

- LSD to 15/8/15 = This LSD change really helped calm the exit oversteer. There is still some. I also kind of lost a little steering mid-corner to late exit. Need to get that back.

-Dampers to DC 3/2, DE to 4/6, ARB to 4/2 = attempting to hold both front and rear down to keep the good behavior from mid-corner working all the way through exit. This did exactly what I wanted in the medium speed and high speed corners, but it really hurt the low speed corners with additional exit oversteer.

- Damper DE to 4/7, ARB back to 3/2 = a strong car now and pretty fun to drive. A bit of helpful lift off drift into the corner, but it can catch you out.

-Ride height to 70/75 = as expected, reduced front grip which calmed down the exit oversteer issue. RH seems to work as programmed, but backward to real world physics.

- Ride Height to 72/75 = spot on.

- LSD to 15/8/17 = made the entry drift more in control. It is still useful to gain car rotation, but it is faster because you are able to drive more smoothly.

- Brake Balance to 6/5 = just to calm it a little more on entry.

That's it. This is where I am stopping with this tune. It is fast and fun to drive and the settings are no longer bringing back significant gains.

Questions or comments?

Great work Hami. I love the way you've explained in detail just how you arrived at the settings listed.
It's one thing to list a setup that turns a horror into a dream but explaining the how & why really helps educate a dufus like me about what changes give what results.

 

[brian wolf]

X-Bow Tuning Notes

I thought that I would open up my tuning notes due to a recent question in the forums. This is how I approach building a tune from scratch.

1. Default settings (not PDs, my own)
2. Transmission
3. LSD tuning
4. Ballast tuning
5. Springs
6. Dampers
7. Toe and camber
8. Fine tuning, usually one more time through most settings trying up or down a few numbers based upon my tuning guide.

My Default Setting:
Ride Height 75/75 (stock)
Springs 4.00/8.50 (stock)
Dampers Compression 3/3 (stock)
Dampers Extension 3/3 (stock)
Anti-Roll Bars 3/3 (stock)
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe 0.00/0.00
Brake balance 5/5
LSD 12/12/12
Ballast 0
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 40:60

Massive exit oversteer, starting right after weight transfer and gets increasingly worse all the way through corner exit. It does not seem to be totally throttle induced. Even on high speed corners where exit leads to a slower corner, so little throttle is applied, the condition is there. The car is a terrible drive and out of control.

- Camber to 1.5/1.5 = I tested this just because of the new 1.09 physics. Camber did little to help the situation. The car is so terrible that I cannot tell if camber made things worse or just kept things just as awful.

- LSD to 14/10/15 = a car that I can almost drive without spinning out. This was a big improvement, but the car is still way to easy to lose the rear from mid-corner to exit.

- Ballast from 0@0 to 50kg at -35 position and 42:48 weight distribution = This is enough tuning to easily gold this time trial event. I can now complete laps with the car but with very little confidence on corner exit. The rear still kicks out passing mid-corner, but with just LSD and Ballast tuned, I can at least catch the car when in misbehaves.

- Springs to 5.00/8.00 looking for less mid-corner steering and more rear grip = this helped the exit oversteer problem, but hurt turn in and mid-corner. The car now has an ok entry, a lazy push mid-corner and still has exit oversteer.

- Springs to 4.50/8.00 and dampers adjusted to DC 4/2 and DE 4/4 = a car that I can now push hard. A little tame on entry and still loose on exit but very driveable.

- Fine tuning over a series of runs - LSD to 15/9/15, DC 3/2, DE 4/5, ARB 3/2 and toe to 0.0/+0.10 = A pretty good car, but still with that bad habit of very late corner exit oversteer. If this tune is going to be really fast, it needs help late exit.

- Toe to +0.10/+0.12 = as I expected, the positive front toe number made the car more aggressive on corner entry and more tame on corner exit. The increase in positive rear toe also helped rear grip once weight had transferred. These settings still work the same 1.08 and 1.09.

- Toe to +0.12/+0.15 = more of the same in the right direction. Over this amount was starting to create a little understeer mid-corner. This setting will probably remain the best.

- Looking to gain late corner exit rear grip without hurting entry and mid-corner.

- LSD to 15/8/15 = This LSD change really helped calm the exit oversteer. There is still some. I also kind of lost a little steering mid-corner to late exit. Need to get that back.

-Dampers to DC 3/2, DE to 4/6, ARB to 4/2 = attempting to hold both front and rear down to keep the good behavior from mid-corner working all the way through exit. This did exactly what I wanted in the medium speed and high speed corners, but it really hurt the low speed corners with additional exit oversteer.

- Damper DE to 4/7, ARB back to 3/2 = a strong car now and pretty fun to drive. A bit of helpful lift off drift into the corner, but it can catch you out.

-Ride height to 70/75 = as expected, reduced front grip which calmed down the exit oversteer issue. RH seems to work as programmed, but backward to real world physics.

- Ride Height to 72/75 = spot on.

- LSD to 15/8/17 = made the entry drift more in control. It is still useful to gain car rotation, but it is faster because you are able to drive more smoothly.

- Brake Balance to 6/5 = just to calm it a little more on entry.

That's it. This is where I am stopping with this tune. It is fast and fun to drive and the settings are no longer bringing back significant gains.

Questions or comments?

More great work sir!👍 This is getting its own shortcut on my desktop!

 

[Peekineeze]

Often when I try a tune I find online, the values aren't able to be entered. For instance, the values for the GT40 Mark 1 '66 are:
Final Gear to 5.000
Top Speed to 124
1st gear 2.400
2nd gear 1.690
3rd gear 1.315
4th gear 1.090
5th gear 0.935
Final gear 3.875

For some reason, I can't get my first & 2nd gear to go there.
1st - 2.466
2nd - 1.714
That's as low as they'll go. Does anybody know why? Thanks?

 

[Bowtie-muscle]

Often when I try a tune I find online, the values aren't able to be entered. For instance, the values for the GT40 Mark 1 '66 are:
Final Gear to 5.000
Top Speed to 124
1st gear 2.400
2nd gear 1.690
3rd gear 1.315
4th gear 1.090
5th gear 0.935
Final gear 3.875

For some reason, I can't get my first & 2nd gear to go there.
1st - 2.466
2nd - 1.714
That's as low as they'll go. Does anybody know why? Thanks?

Reinstall stock trans, then install custom and try again. If you install power upgrade after trans the settings get messed up. Follow Hami" instructions and should be ok.

 

[Motor City Hami]

@Bowtie-muscle is correct. This is usually the result of different power upgrades. You have to install all power upgrades first then build the transmission.

 

[Bowtie-muscle]

Didn't mean to invade your garage so sorry about that, thought I would help. Pretty sure you are ok with it though....right?

 

[Motor City Hami]

Didn't mean to invade your garage so sorry about that, thought I would help. Pretty sure you are ok with it though....right?

Thanks for the help.

 

[SCClockDr]

Often when I try a tune I find online, the values aren't able to be entered. For instance, the values for the GT40 Mark 1 '66 are:
Final Gear to 5.000
Top Speed to 124
1st gear 2.400
2nd gear 1.690
3rd gear 1.315
4th gear 1.090
5th gear 0.935
Final gear 3.875

For some reason, I can't get my first & 2nd gear to go there.
1st - 2.466
2nd - 1.714
That's as low as they'll go. Does anybody know why? Thanks?

The tranny is the final step in a setup. All the power and weight mods must be complete for the gear numbers to match. If your oil change does not match the posted tune's, the numbers may differ a bit as well.

 

[Peekineeze]

Reinstall stock trans, then install custom and try again. If you install power upgrade after trans the settings get messed up. Follow Hami" instructions and should be ok.

Thanks.

 

[SW__10]

Hi,

I just wanted to say Thanks for posting your tuning guide!

I have only been tuning for a few months and your guide & tune problem solving have helped me greatly.

Great job! & Thanks again!

 

[meek]

KTM X-Bow Street '12
550PP, 300hp, 800kg

this is a fantastic suspension, brake & LSD setup, the car is so much fun to drive, you can really push it to the limit!

Knowing this, I tried to lower weight/power ratio (lower is better, Redbulls are <1.00, you're at 2.67) by adding more ballast.
109kg at -50 with Engine upgrade 1 and Turbo upgrade 3 results in a better power curve (less dropoff after peak HP is reached), 899kg distributed at 45/55, and 356hp at 550pp.

899/356 = 2.53

With a quick tranny trick and final gear adjustment, I improved my lap times by 3 seconds -golded the seasonal by almost 9s - the car still being great to drive.

I then switched to the X-Bow R 15th Anniversary. Stock PP is higher so instead of Engine 1 and Turbo 3 I put an ECU, Catalytic Converter and Power limiter at 99.9%.
899kg & 353hp at 550pp. 3 less HP at same weight than Street version.
Nevertheless, I improved my time by another 1.5s (Top 500 as of now, almost 11s below gold), and, you guessed it, the car is still awesome!

I can post the full setup for both, I don't mind you taking credit as I wouldn't have even tried if it wasn't for your great base

tl; dr?
suspension/LSD/brakes = perfect, also is for X-Bow R
weight 899kg = better

 

[Peekineeze]

The tranny is the final step in a setup. All the power and weight mods must be complete for the gear numbers to match. If your oil change does not match the posted tune's, the numbers may differ a bit as well.

I appreciate the help.

 

[Hastatus]

KTM X-Bow Street '12
550PP, 300hp, 800kg

Power Level 98.0%

I tried out your detailed tune notes and they are very helpful. It was nice to have the small steps and be able to see the differences in handling that each change resulted in; and the improved lap times: was easily in the top 500 by the time I reached your final tune set up.

One question: your final tune has 98.0%. Is there a reason it is not 98.1%? For me the 98.1% is still 550PP.

A comment about your notes: it was not clear to me immediately that you tried camber and then set it back to 0:0. Try to be more explicit when you completely remove a change. Otherwise everything was very clear.

Thanks again for posting these notes. 👍

 

[FlipJ]

Hey MCH.
Just wanted to say thank you for the great guide.
After using a couple of tunes from good tuners, finally took the plunge to building my own (in order to suit my own style - if you can call it that...) and so far things are going well, with improvements to all my times.
So thank you very much for spreading your knowledge around.
Cheers.

 

[Motor City Hami]

One question: your final tune has 98.0%. Is there a reason it is not 98.1%? For me the 98.1% is still 550PP.

A comment about your notes: it was not clear to me immediately that you tried camber and then set it back to 0:0. Try to be more explicit when you completely remove a change. Otherwise everything was very clear.

Thanks again for posting these notes. 👍

Thanks for the kind comments. The 98.0 vs. 98.1 was probably just an oversight. I like round numbers, I guess. And thanks for the suggestion. I plan to publish notes for all future tunes. Some will be quick tunes without much detail or depth and some will be hours of tuning. I built the X-bow tune and wrote the notes for myself in the event that the tune starts to lose performance along the way or if I cannot finish in one night, the notes are my breadcrumbs to get back on track where the tune was fast. Now that I am starting tunes with the idea that the notes are for more than just me, there is likely to be more detail in the notes.

Hey MCH.
Just wanted to say thank you for the great guide.
Cheers.

So happy that you guys like the work. I did not realize how well liked the notes would be. It will be my method from here forward.

 

[meek]

@Motor City Hami
Yes/no? (post #492)

 

[Motor City Hami]

this is a fantastic suspension, brake & LSD setup, the car is so much fun to drive, you can really push it to the limit!

Knowing this, I tried to lower weight/power ratio (lower is better, Redbulls are <1.00, you're at 2.67) by adding more ballast.
109kg at -50 with Engine upgrade 1 and Turbo upgrade 3 results in a better power curve (less dropoff after peak HP is reached), 899kg distributed at 45/55, and 356hp at 550pp.

899/356 = 2.53

With a quick tranny trick and final gear adjustment, I improved my lap times by 3 seconds -golded the seasonal by almost 9s - the car still being great to drive.

I then switched to the X-Bow R 15th Anniversary. Stock PP is higher so instead of Engine 1 and Turbo 3 I put an ECU, Catalytic Converter and Power limiter at 99.9%.
899kg & 353hp at 550pp. 3 less HP at same weight than Street version.
Nevertheless, I improved my time by another 1.5s (Top 500 as of now, almost 11s below gold), and, you guessed it, the car is still awesome!

I can post the full setup for both, I don't mind you taking credit as I wouldn't have even tried if it wasn't for your great base

tl; dr?
suspension/LSD/brakes = perfect, also is for X-Bow R
weight 899kg = better

I would be happy to have your tune posted either here or in the tunes area. Always interested in seeing how people evolve my tunes to fit their style.

 

[yuan]

@Motor City Hami Can you help me? The EVORA 475PP 1300KG SH？

 

[Motor City Hami]

@Motor City Hami Can you help me? The EVORA 475PP 1300KG SH？

I am not sure why, but I have not driven any Lotus in GT6 yet. I tuned a few in GT5. I have had the flu for the last couple of days. Maybe this weekend needs to be Lotus weekend. I also have a PM request for help with the NSX R 02, which is one of my favorite cars.

 

[Pete05]

I am not sure why, but I have not driven any Lotus in GT6 yet. I tuned a few in GT5. I have had the flu for the last couple of days. Maybe this weekend needs to be Lotus weekend. I also have a PM request for help with the NSX R 02, which is one of my favorite cars.

The Evora definitely needs a master's hand. She needs discipline this one. Very unruly & just like her older sibling, the Esprit.

 

[yuan]

I am not sure why, but I have not driven any Lotus in GT6 yet. I tuned a few in GT5. I have had the flu for the last couple of days. Maybe this weekend needs to be Lotus weekend. I also have a PM request for help with the NSX R 02, which is one of my favorite cars.

OK...Thank you. I wish you a speedy recovery.

 

[meek]

I would be happy to have your tune posted either here or in the tunes area

Sweet!

X-Bow Street (550pp, 356hp, 322ft-lb, weight distribution 48/52)
engine upgrade 1, semi-racing exhaust, high RPM range turbo-kit
weight reduction 3, 149kg ballast at -50,

Put final gear at 5.500, max speed to 112mph/180kph
Gears:
3.45
2.43
1.82
1.42
1.16
.96
then move Final gear to 3.850

X-Bow R 15th Anniversary (550pp, 353hp, 327ft-lb torque IIRC, weight distribution 48/52; should work for R normal version):
sports computer, catalytic converter sports, power limiter 99.9%
109kg ballast at -50

Put final gear at 5.500, max speed to 112mph/180kph
Gears:
3.14
2.21
1.65
1.299
1.06
.876
then move Final gear to 3.830

@Motor City Hami
I usually do this too, but you can "trick" the PP system by adding weight for light cars, then add parts, and possibly use use PL%.
Remember the two recent seasonal leaderboards filled with lightweights Suzuki GSX at 450pp and Chaparral 2J at 600pp? I got my best times by adding lots of ballast to both...

 

[Motor City Hami]

Sweet! I'll edit this post with the setups later.

Just to nitpick, it wasn't fitting my style more, your tune did that already . Car handles the same, it's just a tad heavier and more powerful, and with better weight/power ratio, I improved lap times.

I tend to just shed all of the weight. I have kind of gotten away from testing weight vs. power. Need to remember to keep this in my testing process.

 

[Siggers]

Hi there, I have a question regarding the power/torque curves of muscle cars:

I have a Shelby GT350 with the max power output at 5,500rpm and max torque output at 4500rpm. This is somewhat in the middle of the rpm range it can rev to(it has a supercharger fitted). After the max output levels the graph begins to decline dramatically for both figures.

So my question is when is the optimal time to change gear with muscle cars like this? The 5,500 rpm max power output is quite low so that when I change gear and the car drops rpm it is already reving at around 5500rpm mark. Is it best to not rev it too high so that when I change up it drops to say 4500-5000, then I am spending the most amount of acceleration time in the peak of the power/torque figures on the graph?

Also I have tuned the gearbox using Praiano's guide, with first gear being all the way to the left as I don't care for a quick launch speed. When the car is at the end of the longest straight it is running in the limiter (red line). Because of the way the power curve is would it be better to decrease the final drive ratio so that at the end of the longest straight it is running at lower rpm (out of the limiter) or would this reduce overall lap time too much because my gear ratio spreads will be longer?

I am sorry if these questions seem a little trivial but I am new to tuning gearboxes and would really appreciate your advice

 

[Pete05]

Hi there, I have a question regarding the power/torque curves of muscle cars:

I have a Shelby GT350 with the max power output at 5,500rpm and max torque output at 4500rpm. This is somewhat in the middle of the rpm range it can rev to(it has a supercharger fitted). After the max output levels the graph begins to decline dramatically for both figures.

So my question is when is the optimal time to change gear with muscle cars like this? The 5,500 rpm max power output is quite low so that when I change gear and the car drops rpm it is already reving at around 5500rpm mark. Is it best to not rev it too high so that when I change up it drops to say 4500-5000, then I am spending the most amount of acceleration time in the peak of the power/torque figures on the graph?

Also I have tuned the gearbox using Praiano's guide, with first gear being all the way to the left as I don't care for a quick launch speed. When the car is at the end of the longest straight it is running in the limiter (red line). Because of the way the power curve is would it be better to decrease the final drive ratio so that at the end of the longest straight it is running at lower rpm (out of the limiter) or would this reduce overall lap time too much because my gear ratio spreads will be longer?

I am sorry if these questions seem a little trivial but I am new to tuning gearboxes and would really appreciate your advice

Hi Siggers,
If this was my car & I was looking to get the most performance out of it, I would change gears at 5500rpm as this where you get peak power. Anything past this is just making more noise and with power falling off, isn't helping with acceleration. It's a by-product of a the supercharger that the peak power is in the middle range. Naturally aspirated this engine is happy to be revved over 6500.
For the gearing, I would have my final drive ratio set so that I have 5500rpm in top gear at the end of the longest straight for whichever track you're using at the time.

Good luck

 

[Siggers]

Hi Siggers,
If this was my car & I was looking to get the most performance out of it, I would change gears at 5500rpm as this where you get peak power. Anything past this is just making more noise and with power falling off, isn't helping with acceleration. It's a by-product of a the supercharger that the peak power is in the middle range. Naturally aspirated this engine is happy to be revved over 6500.
For the gearing, I would have my final drive ratio set so that I have 5500rpm in top gear at the end of the longest straight for whichever track you're using at the time.

Good luck

Thanks for the help, it felt a little weird at first because it was like I was constantly short shifting, but then after I changed the final drive ratio to match the car felt better adjusted and seemed like it was overall just working better. Needless to say my lap times are now consistently around half a second faster 👍

 

[Bowtie-muscle]

Hey Hami, hope you have kicked the flu bug. Need help or a favor, could you take my Viper tune for a quick spin and give me a suggestion on taming corner exit? I know you are busy and get PM requests, but this is an area where I am still struggling from time to time. With this tune, if I fixed corner exit it hurt too much of the rest of the lap. As you can see, many better tuners have past me in the current challenge, was shocked I kept up with you as long as I did. Don't mind being beatin by better tuners, just would like to hang closer to their rear bumpers. Any help is always appreciated.

 

[Siggers]

Hi Siggers,
If this was my car & I was looking to get the most performance out of it, I would change gears at 5500rpm as this where you get peak power. Anything past this is just making more noise and with power falling off, isn't helping with acceleration. It's a by-product of a the supercharger that the peak power is in the middle range. Naturally aspirated this engine is happy to be revved over 6500.
For the gearing, I would have my final drive ratio set so that I have 5500rpm in top gear at the end of the longest straight for whichever track you're using at the time.

Good luck

I have another car which has the power limiter applied to it. Without the limiter the max power output is at 7000rpm, but with using the limiter it reduces the max output level to just 5000rpm with max torque at 4500rpm.

Even though the power curve on the graph remains flat is it still best to follow the above logic and change gears/set top speed to occur at 5000? Or will reving higher lose no time because of the flat curve despite the decline of the torque curve?

 

[Pete05]

I have another car which has the power limiter applied to it. Without the limiter the max power output is at 7000rpm, but with using the limiter it reduces the max output level to just 5000rpm with max torque at 4500rpm.

Even though the power curve on the graph remains flat is it still best to follow the above logic and change gears/set top speed to occur at 5000? Or will reving higher lose no time because of the flat curve despite the decline of the torque curve?

This is a bit more of a curveball as it will depend on more variables. The power curve isn't falling away like the Shelby, the torque curve is though.
If you're climbing a hill, I'd still be changing up with the torque curve in mind.
Best advice from me to you is to do some back to back testing trying different shift points. Try 5 laps changing at 5500, 5 laps at 6000 and so on until you find which method works best.

Good luck