New physics (update 1.31)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dess81
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So after my(very negative) first impression yesterday, I have changed my mind about the new physics.

Road cars handle much better now, and for the GR3 cars it got a little bit more difficult-but it will improve your driving skill in the long run...so yes, I like this update!

The only thing I dislike: I have to change the tunes for quite a few cars, and since I am not so good at it, this will take some time...
 
Bojador
Thanks. So at 10/10 I’m getting the most force available in my wheel and not difference between the strong and soft effects? 🤦‍♂️
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Yeah, that pretty much turns the feedback into an on/off switch (hyperbole).
Ffb torque = how heavy you want the heaviest feedback to be. General advice is to put it to the highest setting that your wheel can handle before clipping. Example I use 5 (still some clipping but not much), and lets say my Csl Elite max force = the max force comunicated by ingame setting 5. Then if I would set ingame to 10, everything from 50-100% force/weight would be clipping (feel the same). Kinda works like a compressor.

Sens kinda work the other way round, higher setting raise the weight/feel from the small/light effects comunicated to the wheel.
10 = least dynamic
1 = most dynamic
Personally I use Sens:1 for my Csl Elite. Because I like the feedback as dynamic as possible.
Though if you use a weak wheel base, you might need to sacrifice some of the dynamics in the feedback, if you can’t feel the lower/lighter forces comunicated from the road. But imo the higher settings just makes it feel like a damper squeezing all feedback together to make everything feel the same.
 
bigmull
I have never had any braking issues with the 272,i did notice that there is a wee bit less traction with the update but what it has done is the care having as far as i can see on RH NO tyre wear at all in the 30 Le Mans race.Check out my 272 setup in the tuning section under The Docs Classic Tunes.
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I used to have problems with it under heavy braking at Le Mans chicane on the mulsanne but raising the front height helped a bit. After the update, it became more stable.
 
GTboyz
I used to have problems with it under heavy braking at Le Mans chicane on the mulsanne but raising the front height helped a bit. After the update, it became more stable.
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Would you know of a site/chart/YT video that breaks down the tuning aspect of GT7? I had no idea that raising the front height would help in that situation.
 
sonnyboychris
Would you know of a site/chart/YT video that breaks down the tuning aspect of GT7? I had no idea that raising the front height would help in that situation.
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If there is one, it'll now be out of date with the physics changes anyway...!

You'd hope you could use actual real world setup behaviour, which you can to an extent, but there's a lot of weird stuff (massive camber, comedy amounts of rake) that doesn't make much sense but works with the handling model. It's sort of what puts me off playing with the setups much, a lack of faith that the changes actually do what they're supposed to do.
 
W1gglyStyl3
Yeah, that pretty much turns the feedback into an on/off switch (hyperbole).
Ffb torque = how heavy you want the heaviest feedback to be. General advice is to put it to the highest setting that your wheel can handle before clipping. Example I use 5 (still some clipping but not much), and lets say my Csl Elite max force = the max force comunicated by ingame setting 5. Then if I would set ingame to 10, everything from 50-100% force/weight would be clipping (feel the same). Kinda works like a compressor.

Sens kinda work the other way round, higher setting raise the weight/feel from the small/light effects comunicated to the wheel.
10 = least dynamic
1 = most dynamic
Personally I use Sens:1 for my Csl Elite. Because I like the feedback as dynamic as possible.
Though if you use a weak wheel base, you might need to sacrifice some of the dynamics in the feedback, if you can’t feel the lower/lighter forces comunicated from the road. But imo the higher settings just makes it feel like a damper squeezing all feedback together to make everything feel the same.
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Thank you. Is there a way to know or guess what the maximum torque of the g29 is?
 
Bojador
Thank you. Is there a way to know or guess what the maximum torque of the g29 is?
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It's about 2.8Nm I think? Or I may be thinking of the G25, unsure how much it has changed.

I think the suggestion is the strength roughly corresponds to torque in Nm, I can't remember if I heard that on hear from a reputable source though...!
 
I believe the updated physics are great! I checked out some peer reviews, hearing that the physics seemed similar to when the game first came out.

I disagree 100%. When the game first came out, the cars were VERY twitchy.

It was hard to determine the limits of the tires and suspension, and control loss felt so sudden. Correcting was just about impossible. Tires felt as though they didn't have much contact patch no matter what.

Cars felt like they weighed 1000lbs and any steering and throttle input needed to be extremely gentle, as the weight would transfer so drastically and combined with the lack of tire grip, and suspension reaction would cause loss of control.

Now the cars feel weighty, in a good way. Weight transfer can be felt better.

Tires feel as though they have more grip. Also, grip levels can be felt progressively as you gain or lose traction. This allows for easier correction and control, coupled with the sususpension responding better.

I tried out a 911 GT3 (996) which I always found TOO twitchy. It seemed that when taking sharp, or long sweeping turns, the car's weight would shift so drastically and the tires would lose so much grip, that the back end would lose control no matter how careful my inputs were.

Now I feel the weight shifting well, and the tires feel more connected to the road. When weight shifts the tires gain some grip, and maintain it until they reach their limits, or until direction is changed abruptly.

When tires lose grip, it doesn't feel like a death sentence anymore. (Especially in RR & MR cars).
 
Is it just me or is it harder to get the car to rotate with this update? I now get power UNDERsteer in 600+hp RWD cars which wasn't present before. In 4WD cars now I can no longer left-foot brake while applying throttle to induce a slide - now the car wants to just go into the outside wall lol.

FFB feels better, though.
 
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Sturdy
It's about 2.8Nm I think? Or I may be thinking of the G25, unsure how much it has changed.

I think the suggestion is the strength roughly corresponds to torque in Nm, I can't remember if I heard that on hear from a reputable source though...!
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I believe it is. So 3 should be the maximum I should use? That seems too low.
 
ishlabandz
Is it just me or is it harder to get the car to rotate with this update? I now get power UNDERsteer in 600+hp RWD cars which wasn't present before. In 4WD cars now I can no longer left-foot brake while applying throttle to induce a slide - now the car wants to just go into the outside wall lol.

FFB feels better, though.
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I agree, you really need to watch your corner entry speed now in order to hit the apex correctly, which feels more realistic. I tried the super formula and the downforce is incredible now, the car was performing how I would expect it to perform in a sim like iRacing TBH. Do you find that you need to shift into a lower gear more often when attacking corners?
 
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sonnyboychris
Fair point lmao.

Yeah, I feel unusually optimistic that they'll get it done.
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I have a feeling they were really focused on getting VR done in time for release. Now that it's out and working well, they can focus on all the other aspects of the game that need to be improved. This update we got a massive overhaul wherein the game feels so much more like a Sim now. I'm feeling optimistic about April's update as well 👍
 
Bojador
Thank you. Is there a way to know or guess what the maximum torque of the g29 is?
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Short answer: Yes
Long answer: Not sure I can provide any accurate help from memory/my head alone. Maybe later, Im currently working (or, Im at work and should be working😅)
 
bigmull
You wil always get more tyre wear on the rear right on that Circuit as it predominently has right handed corners most taken under power.
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Oh wow. Really? I didn't notice after doing 100+ races there....
 
Bojador
I believe it is. So 3 should be the maximum I should use? That seems too low.
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I only used my G29 for a month so can't for sure remember my settings (They change with a lot of updates anyway), but I wouldn't go higher than 5 MAX. I'd start at strength of 4 and sens of 3 and go from there. Then just try it and adjust ONE number at a time trying the same car on the same track until it feels the best for you. With this new FFB you might even be able to go down to a sens 2.
 
After watching a somewhat rainy Sarthe 700 race replay, I can conclude that the new physics affect the AI the most. By far!
I knew they get stupid in rain, but they have excelled in that area. It rains pure Stupid Elixer down there and they suck it in by the loads.
In any real life race, these idiots would either get black flagged, banned for several races, get their licenses invoked entirely, lose their seat in the teams or leave on their own merits for having to deal with idiot team race strategists.
I don't watch replays a lot, but this is pure entertainment. New physics is a win! 😂
 
LeftoverPizza
After watching a somewhat rainy Sarthe 700 race replay, I can conclude that the new physics affect the AI the most. By far!
I knew they get stupid in rain, but they have excelled in that area. It rains pure Stupid Elixer down there and they suck it in by the loads.
In any real life race, these idiots would either get black flagged, banned for several races, get their licenses invoked entirely, lose their seat in the teams or leave on their own merits for having to deal with idiot team race strategists.
I don't watch replays a lot, but this is pure entertainment. New physics is a win! 😂
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This race with rain makes the AI moving obstacles, i made just two races with my Gr 2 detune cars and in both cases they was gathered in one place , yellow flags etc.
I look the second race and that was one of what i saw


Theres no need to worry any more to pass the 30 minutes barrier.
Am sure many others can confirm that tragic behaviour from the AI.


Of course this is just ridiculous .
Seems like luna park cars we used to drive as kids.
 
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...or it seems a little bit like this:



Obviously it doesn't look exactly like that, since my Video ist real and GT7 is just a game...
 
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I like the new physics model as well as the feel the DualSense controller provides both in the connection to the car (including the revised settings) and the haptic feedback enhancements.

I haven't had much time yet to try a variety of cars or even tire choices but what has stood out to me is the increased wear of IM tires on dry and/or surfaces that are not wet enough. Before, even if the track was a little wet, they seemed to last a long time. Now, the track seems to need to be in the middle section of the wet meter to keep from degrading too rapidly. It's certainly made a change to my my strategy which is not necessarily a bad thing IMO.

Cars overall just feel more connected and realistic (to me). There are certainly some that will require some suspension tweaking to adjust to the new changes but I'm ok with that as it's an aspect of these games I enjoy. .....being a "car guy" who's wrenched and modified my own over the decades.

I'm happy so far with the new changes.
 
Batschisane52
...or it seems a little bit like this:



Obviously it doesn't look exactly like that, since my Video ist real and GT7 is just a game...
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I'm fairly sure these drivers do not pit to go out on a fresh set of hards in this weather. The game AI does... 😂
 
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suomi1
Same here, I'm not able to use the analog sticks unless I get cramps after... a matter of seconds. I tried on GT5 / 6 and now 7, but my body doesn't want to hear about it. As for the steering wheel, all the arguments explaining that we do not necessarily have the possibility of using / having one have already been presented a thousand times.

I tested directional pad sensibility before and after the update to be more aware of the change that were made. 1.31 -2 sensibility is more sensible than +10 before... The feeling is terrible. Cars are more teleporting than turning, awful driving experience as for watching race replays. I feel like I'm driving a hysterical fly that has fallen into coffee.

I can clearly feel that the new physics of the game are better, that's for sure, but the handling of this particular pad config is disastrous. They have to rollback on that specific one.

And I say it another time so it is clear for everyone: physics are better, the problem isn't here for me.
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I have the same issue (you noted in my other post so I read this one). I play daily to get the marathon in at the very least and the change was instant. As suggested in the other thread, set the sensitivity back to "0" then try tuning up and down from there. The cars went from undrivable for me to much better. You are 100% right, the cars were 'teleporting' not turning :)

I've always had to use the D-pad for driving since original GT-1 due to surgery on my wrist. I am simply not physically able to make fine adjustments with the analog stick using my thumb. I've always managed to get gold on all challenges and licenses, and on all but a few of the F1 races. Those are always going to be a challenge for me until I can get a steering wheel controller.
 
Voodoovaj
Shouldn't this be a clue that the physics is incorrect.
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Another way to look at it is that if you take a stock 959 and equip it with racing softs, you might expect to have to make some tuning adjustments for it to perform normally and not exhibit strange behavior.

I've been told that the general rule of thumb is that two degrees change of tires require a change in suspension. Going from SH to RS is 5 degrees :)
 
luv2drive
Another way to look at it is that if you take a stock 959 and equip it with racing softs, you might expect to have to make some tuning adjustments for it to perform normally and not exhibit strange behavior.

I've been told that the general rule of thumb is that two degrees change of tires require a change in suspension. Going from SH to RS is 5 degrees :)
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We also dont know if the person did full weight reduction on the car then added full ballast in the rear of the car. That would probably make its weight balance at 70% in the rear.
 
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