No One Found Menu 33 WTC600 Difficult to Win 1st?

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I have already beaten the main menus and have started grinding, but I always want to go back to revisit menu 33 WTC600 to get my missing first place. Certainly it is not hard to obtain 2nd place at all, even with hard AI. I can score 2nd, 3rd and 4th so that my total score is 10+8+7=25. The first place AI car, which uses RE Amemiya FD3S RX-7, scores 1st, 1st and 3rd, totaling 32 points. Therefore, even obtaining 2nd, 2nd and 2nd won't suffice to win, and I at least need one win, which should be the first map. However, after a few attempts with Taycan and Huracan Gr.4, I find this even extremely bothering, especially at the point that it shows me that I don't know about the cars, tunes and how PP system works.

Surprisingly, despite the fact that many posts have complained about this event, 100% of the replies were quite vague and always start with "I seem to remember using whatever random car I got before and it was an easy win", "Just use EV, massive lead", "Just use a Gr.4/3 car, dominating", ... It is interesting to see that experienced players have zero trouble winning this series and basically no one understands why new players struggle. This leads to a surprising situation that:

  • Thousands, if not millions, 600pp tunes have been made for Tokyo expressway, to aid noob players to consistently win against AI.
  • None, literally none, 600pp tune was shared to aid noob players to beat that RE Amemiya FD3S RX-7 on hard difficulty.

It is true that I can win with Taycan or Huracan IF my lap time is 2 seconds shorter than my current one, which is not a lot, considering track experience has way larger gaps for gold/silver/bronze. Talented players can literally pick up a stock 550pp car and put on IM tires and win. However, it is hard to imagine the difficulty setting that PD decided to design for these events, that a bronze-track-experience level player like me, can easily win 1st at WTC700 and WTC800, fails to catch up that Amemiya. I certainly believe that, as long as the car used is powerful enough, skill issues can be covered and a win is guaranteed. This is just so much harder for the 600pp event, as it seems 600pp tuning sacrifices SO MUCH horsepower for high PP cars.

Now let me explain why this 600pp tuning is hard.

First, the traditional way of using trashy tires on a beefy car trick does not work. I know for Tokyo 600 people use 800pp cars equipped with the worst tires in the game to lower the pp, but this will fail miserably in the menu 33 event. It is because the first map has moderate rain, and IM tires are mandatory. Tried 787B with comfort hard front and IM rear, IMPOSSIBLE to turn. The grip is so low that every sharp turn I need to slow down to like 40km/h to be able to barely turn in. Completely useless. For the second map, Suzuka, I tried with high HP tune of Taycan with SH tires. This track is basically 80% cornering, and that HP advantage is all gone when such trashy tires are used. Impossible to maintain a high speed turn and takes too long to decelerate.

The above limit basically rules out the inherent high PP cars. It requires somewhat decent tires then the HP must be lowered to an incredible level such that the value of the car is basically all gone. Then, we probably need to look at cars with low stock PPs. However, it is again hard to find a car to beat Amemiya. Amemiya RX-7 has such an incredible performance on paper. 1240kg with a massive 372HP, extremely good HP/mass ratio, with only 560+ stock PP. For road cars around that level, for example Supra '20, basically similar PP but heavier and lower HP. I don't even understand how Amemiya is able to score such low PP with such high performance. Its performance is well witnessed in the actual game. It just takes the lead further and further each lap. To add even more challenge, the AI seems to change mid race. Initially it is 40 seconds ahead of me. After 3 laps I made it to 10 seconds, but for the remaining two laps the lead AI decides to speed up and maintain such a gap, or it even beats me to extend the lead to 11 or 12 seconds. This for sure could happen because my downtuned cars literally has a lower HP/mass ratio than Amemiya.

I sincerely invite good players with knowledge on wide variety of cars and tunes to this car tune challenge. Without using engine swaps (because most new players do not have level 50) and must use IM/SS/RH tires, which car has the best on paper performance at 600pp (higher HP/mass ratio than Amemiya) and can guarantee a bronze level player the win at this event?


EDIT: I got 1/2/1 with a down-tuned Escudo, 564PS, SH front SS rear, manual instead of racing gear box to save pp. (Probably should have gone with 487PS with racing gear box, in fact faster acceleration if doing so.) Sport tires actually works in rain, so IM tires aren't really required. SH tires, however, do struggle on Suzuka. At that particular track maybe a separate tune setting with smaller HP and better tires is preferable. EDIT2: tried racing gearbox with lower HP, does work similar. Also tried further down-tuned Escudo with basically minimal horsepower and 200kg ballast, upgrade front to SM, still similar. In the end still could not beat Amemiya@Suzuka.
 
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Don't forget that the difficulty of races partly changed over time. I don't recall that being particularly difficult. But i tried it some month ago and found the Ameniya to be a nice challenge (most single player races aren't, even on hard).

So most players here did that championship years ago.

I also don't find that there's a special trick about tuning and PP. You just do what's right for a challenge/track. At 600pp that's typically SS tires for me (on a technical track) or a bit harder compounds on fast tracks.
 
I made two attempts today out of curiosity, on hard race mode of course. Failed at the first one with the Porsche 911 GT3 RS '22 detuned to 600 PP - two second places and a third for a total third place in the championship. The second attempt however's been successful. Used a basically stock Gallardo, the only changes I made was giving it new wheels and some aero parts from GT Auto.
DS4 here, assists as always none but ABS standard.

Gran Turismo™ 7_20241225141634.jpg

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Honestly, I don't think it's harder now than it's been two years ago when I did this menu initially. Good luck and some persistence ! ;)
 
I made two attempts today out of curiosity, on hard race mode of course. Failed at the first one with the Porsche 911 GT3 RS '22 detuned to 600 PP - two second places and a third for a total third place in the championship. The second attempt however's been successful. Used a basically stock Gallardo, the only changes I made was giving it new wheels and some aero parts from GT Auto.
DS4 here, assists as always none but ABS standard.

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Honestly, I don't think it's harder now than it's been two years ago when I did this menu initially. Good luck and some persistence ! ;)
Thanks for the effort! However, honestly this recommendation is apparently very similar to what I have seen in other posts: "Just try stock XXX and good luck!". You never knew this setup might not be optimal at all and basically your skill has overcome the shortcoming of a random setup. For instance, I think there is a very high chance that a stock Amemiya (the fastest AI car in the race) with proper tires (within 600pp of course) can easily beat the Gallardo time if both cars are driven by you. Especially for SH tires, I had a nightmare with SH tires on Taycan/Suzuka, and I can't even imagine how to use SH tires in rain.

It is sad that most knowledgeable players do not recognize this as a car identification and tuning challenge. These kinds of posts asking for optimal setups are usually understood as asking for successful experiences that how you got 1st. "Yeah I remember I drove XXX and got 1st pretty easily so go ahead and try that car." I am not desperately eager to obtain 1st in this event, for which certainly I would just fix a somewhat reasonable setup and try hard and retry every time I don't get a first/second on a track to ensure at least tie with Kokubun. It's nearly 2025. In 2022 when people ask for how to grind money some might have said "Oh yes that track I remember 10 mins I got 100k", but now everybody knows what is the most optimal track/car combination.

Thanks again. If possible, can you do the 600pp Amemiya test to see if you have a better/worse lap time as compare to this 600pp Gallardo?
 
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I agree with your findings.

I'll add that
  • Both the players and AI got faster with the physics updates, BUT
  • The PP system has nerfed a lot of cars
  • Players have fewer easy tricks to game the PP system
  • Maximum Aero at the rear with minimum aero at the front is much less effective at lowering PP
  • Grippier tires, Sport Softs especially, create a big PP penalty
  • Meanwhile, the AI cars, who, IMO, were already cheating the PP system, never got these nerfs

I ran and won this championship several times on hard difficulty after reading your post. First place in all races. There was no margin for error in the first two races. The best I could do was maybe an 8 second lead. Even with the 3rd race where I enjoy the track and the AI is the slowest, I won by barely 14 seconds. I was running with heavily PP optimized builds as well.

For race one at Red Bull Ring, I switched all my builds to Racing Intermediate and added more power. Driving in the wet annoys me.

Audi R8 4.2 '07
2890lbs (1310kg), 354hp, Racing Hard Tires 4WD
Not the fastest at all, but I like its driving feel.

WT600 Champ - Audi R8 - Results.jpg


R8 - Settings - 1.jpg


R8 - Settings - 2.jpg


R8 - Settings - Gears.jpg


Toyota Alphard Executive Lounge '18 (No Swap)
3728lbs (1690kg), 585hp, Sports Soft Tires, 4WD, Low RPM Turbo
Very heavy, but hides the weight well. Top speed is not great, but it out accelerates everyone. Corners much better than it has any right to

WT600 Champ - Alphard - Results.jpg


Alphard - Settings - 1.jpg


Alphard - Settings - 2.jpg


Alphard - Settings - Gears.jpg


Mazda Atenza Sedan XD L Package '15 (No Swap)
2784lbs (1263kg), 387hp. Racing Medium Tires, 4WD, Low RPM Turbo
One of the Low PP heroes. HP is unimpressive and it's better to shift when the bar is a little over half full / lit, BUT the low end torque and acceleration are great.

*Medium RPM turbo for the first race.

WT600 Champ - Atenza - Results.jpg


Atenza - Settings - 1.jpg


Atenza - Settings - 2.jpg


Atenza - Settings - Gears.jpg


For a championship win, I'd say focus on the third race at Dragon Trail if you can. The AI are at their slowest here.

If you are determined to get a win at race one, you're correct in using Racing Intermediate tires with a little extra power. The AI will still get super powers near the end of the race and run 1:38s to high 1:36s though.


My strategy for 600pp builds outside the Tokyo Grind

  • Always emphasize grip and power
  • Always add Fully Customizable LSD = free PP + you get more control over car handling
  • Always Increase Body Rigidity = free PP + more stable aero behavior
  • Fully Adjustable Racing Suspension is worth the PP cost 99% of the time
  • Racing Brake PADs are the only brake upgrade worth doing at this level - learn to deal with longer braking distances
  • Always do Stage 3 weight reduction - when you must add weight back, you can decide the best place to put it
  • Add 150-180kg of ballast to keep power up - the sweet spot is between 2600-3000lbs (1180 - 1360kg) for most cars where the car still feel OK
  • Don't bother with Sports Hard Tires for anything but the Tokyo grind; they are hot garbage on all other tracks
  • Generally use Sports Softs or Racing Hards
  • Sports and Racing Brake kits are NOT worth the PP cost at this level
  • Low RPM Turbos for most tracks, Medium RPM Turbos for long tracks - High RPM is too laggy despite the power and PP rating
  • I prefer the Low RPM Turbo for acceleration - you may need to shift before redline - check the power graph in the tuning menu to see where power drops off
  • Racing Transmission for short / medium tracks - the acceleration is worth the PP cost
  • Manual Transmission for longer tracks that need more top speed
  • Rear Aero (splitter / under tray) usually NOT worth the PP cost at this level, but it's car dependent
  • Stage 4/5 weight reductions usually are NOT worth the PP cost at this level
  • For rear biased cars, add ballast toward the front 49/51 or even 50/50 weight distribution is OK
  • For FR cars, add ballast around the rear to help with traction problems - aim for 51/49 weight distribution, or 49/51 if you want more agility
  • More weight over the driven wheels can make acceleration a bit quicker

Considerations
My tunes are generally aggressive momentum builds. They care only about lap times; they may be not great for fuel consumption and tire wear. And they suffer in traffic.
 
...

Thanks again. If possible, can you do the 600pp Amemiya test to see if you have a better/worse lap time as compare to this 600pp Gallardo?
I did. My FD3S had an old 630 PP Praiano setup which is still working quite ok despite physics changes. I adapted this to 600 PP and went racing. I didn't go like a madman, trying to keep things clean, and realized : I wasn't essentially quicker than with the Gallardo.
Two very different cars, different driving but similar race progress and similar runtimes. However ... only second place overall.

Gran Turismo™ 7_20241226093329.jpgGran Turismo™ 7_20241226094816.jpg
Gran Turismo™ 7_20241226095952.jpgGran Turismo™ 7_20241226100043.jpg

What you should keep in mind is the rubber banding, some call it adaptive AI. I'm not an expert here - my rough guess is the AI has got a specific window to adapt their pace within, depending on the car you bring, the pace you go and other parameters. As long as you and your car aren't capable to exceed this window, there's no safe win. IMO !

A car that is definitely outrunning the AI is @rheinaoi 's Alphard. Tried that too, it's a blast, had lots of fun destroying the competition in a van. :D Three easy wins.
 
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I agree with your findings.

I'll add that
  • Both the players and AI got faster with the physics updates, BUT
  • The PP system has nerfed a lot of cars
  • Players have fewer easy tricks to game the PP system
  • Maximum Aero at the rear with minimum aero at the front is much less effective at lowering PP
  • Grippier tires, Sport Softs especially, create a big PP penalty
  • Meanwhile, the AI cars, who, IMO, were already cheating the PP system, never got these nerfs

I ran and won this championship several times on hard difficulty after reading your post. First place in all races. There was no margin for error in the first two races. The best I could do was maybe an 8 second lead. Even with the 3rd race where I enjoy the track and the AI is the slowest, I won by barely 14 seconds. I was running with heavily PP optimized builds as well.

For race one at Red Bull Ring, I switched all my builds to Racing Intermediate and added more power. Driving in the wet annoys me.

Audi R8 4.2 '07
2890lbs (1310kg), 354hp, Racing Hard Tires 4WD
Not the fastest at all, but I like its driving feel.

View attachment 1415627

View attachment 1415624

View attachment 1415625

View attachment 1415626

Toyota Alphard Executive Lounge '18 (No Swap)
3728lbs (1690kg), 585hp, Sports Soft Tires, 4WD, Low RPM Turbo
Very heavy, but hides the weight well. Top speed is not great, but it out accelerates everyone. Corners much better than it has any right to

View attachment 1415631

View attachment 1415628

View attachment 1415629

View attachment 1415630

Mazda Atenza Sedan XD L Package '15 (No Swap)
2784lbs (1263kg), 387hp. Racing Medium Tires, 4WD, Low RPM Turbo
One of the Low PP heroes. HP is unimpressive and it's better to shift when the bar is a little over half full / lit, BUT the low end torque and acceleration are great.

*Medium RPM turbo for the first race.

View attachment 1415635

View attachment 1415632

View attachment 1415633

View attachment 1415634

For a championship win, I'd say focus on the third race at Dragon Trail if you can. The AI are at their slowest here.

If you are determined to get a win at race one, you're correct in using Racing Intermediate tires with a little extra power. The AI will still get super powers near the end of the race and run 1:38s to high 1:36s though.


My strategy for 600pp builds outside the Tokyo Grind

  • Always emphasize grip and power
  • Always add Fully Customizable LSD = free PP + you get more control over car handling
  • Always Increase Body Rigidity = free PP + more stable aero behavior
  • Fully Adjustable Racing Suspension is worth the PP cost 99% of the time
  • Racing Brake PADs are the only brake upgrade worth doing at this level - learn to deal with longer braking distances
  • Always do Stage 3 weight reduction - when you must add weight back, you can decide the best place to put it
  • Add 150-180kg of ballast to keep power up - the sweet spot is between 2600-3000lbs (1180 - 1360kg) for most cars where the car still feel OK
  • Don't bother with Sports Hard Tires for anything but the Tokyo grind; they are hot garbage on all other tracks
  • Generally use Sports Softs or Racing Hards
  • Sports and Racing Brake kits are NOT worth the PP cost at this level
  • Low RPM Turbos for most tracks, Medium RPM Turbos for long tracks - High RPM is too laggy despite the power and PP rating
  • I prefer the Low RPM Turbo for acceleration - you may need to shift before redline - check the power graph in the tuning menu to see where power drops off
  • Racing Transmission for short / medium tracks - the acceleration is worth the PP cost
  • Manual Transmission for longer tracks that need more top speed
  • Rear Aero (splitter / under tray) usually NOT worth the PP cost at this level, but it's car dependent
  • Stage 4/5 weight reductions usually are NOT worth the PP cost at this level
  • For rear biased cars, add ballast toward the front 49/51 or even 50/50 weight distribution is OK
  • For FR cars, add ballast around the rear to help with traction problems - aim for 51/49 weight distribution, or 49/51 if you want more agility
  • More weight over the driven wheels can make acceleration a bit quicker

Considerations
My tunes are generally aggressive momentum builds. They care only about lap times; they may be not great for fuel consumption and tire wear. And they suffer in traffic.
Thanks! I didn't expect there are so many viable tunes. In fact before I came back to this post, I just got 1/2/1 with a downtuned Escudo. The most important thing I overlooked is, Sport tires actually can grid in rain. I went with a Escudo SH front SS rear, and limited to 564PS (with manual, not racing gearbox to save pp, but probably as you mentioned, should go with racing, can achieve faster acceleration even with smaller HP). Still a monster, though barely won Amemiya at Red Bull. At Suzuka I got second, clearly finding SH tires do not have enough grip to let me flat out on long corners, at which Amemiya really shines. For Dragon trail I agree, that was an easy win. Couldn't understand why I always got 4th before. I will look further into this event to try to get all 3 first places. Probably I will need a separate tuning for Suzuka with better tires.

The AI pp is indeed interesting. From ddm999.github.io/gt7info/stock-perf.html I can see Amemiya actually has 600.04 with SS and 599.01 with IM on that sheet, which I assume is old data. Now if I buy Amemiya, SS gives 612.73pp and and IM gives 612.70pp. I also have the guess that AI cars use tunes that in the old pp system they are under 600pp but when PD nerfs player pp, they didn't bother changing AI setups, causing the Amemiya being this scary.

I did. My FD3S had an old 630 PP Praiano setup which is still working quite ok despite physics changes. I adapted this to 600 PP and went racing. I didn't go like a madman, trying to keep things clean, and realized : I wasn't essentially quicker than with the Gallardo.
Two very different cars, different driving but similar race progress and similar runtimes. However ... only second place overall.

View attachment 1415661View attachment 1415662
View attachment 1415663View attachment 1415665

What you should keep in mind is the rubber banding, some call it adaptive AI. I'm not an expert here - my rough guess is the AI has got a specific window to adapt their pace within, depending on the car you bring, the pace you go and other parameters. As long as you and your car aren't capable to exceed this window, there's no safe win. IMO !

A car that is definitely outrunning the AI is @rheinaoi 's Alphard. Tried that too, it's a blast, had lots of fun destroying the competition in a van. :D Three easy wins.
Thanks! During the run I just did, I somehow understand why Amemiya has that behavior. It did not start in first place! Therefore, in first a few laps, cars in its front block it, making it slower. After it got first place at around lap 3, then it went into full blast mode, especially for tracks emphasizing on cornering (rainy Red Bull Ring and Suzuka). At Dragon trail with long straights, Amemiya is not able to beat other AI cars.

The next challenge for me is to get 1st at Suzuka, which for sure I will look into rheinaoi's tunings.
 
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@rheinaoi Update: Tried your TOYOTA Van build, couldn't catch up with Amemiya at RBR... As soon as Amemiya got first place then it becomes super fast and extends the lead further and further and there is no hope for me to get 1st so I quit. Apparently this is my skill issue but it shows how hard it is for experienced players to build tunes for noob players because you can just run with any car and win but for me it is sadly not the case. At least Escudo worked for me.

I also have difficulty to even replicate your tune. I basically bought all upgrade I can buy then I found out you didn't buy the high pressure piston. Is that intentional? Also I don't have carbon or titanium parts, which I believe only unlock at lvl 50 (I haven't yet). Do they affect pp? Also mine does not need 93 ECU (I set 96 ECU) and I have ballast 62kg, not as high as yours. Sadly I am using different units from yours so I can't even compare the numbers on the left panel. In the gearbox setting if I set the same numbers to the left of the slashes, the right numbers do not agree. My engine rpm in the gearbox setting shows 7750 rpm, which is different from yours. Don't understand why. I just used a DHL livery and bought additional rear aero parts, rims seem to be standard. However, I think even if I had the same tune, I probably still won't win, unless I use beasts like Escudo.
 
Apparently this is my skill issue but it shows how hard it is for experienced players to build tunes for noob players because you can just run with any car and win but for me it is sadly not the case.
No, that's not how this game works. You can't win any race on hard with any car, no matter how good you are. It's very obvious on some of the slower races, like Sunday Cup Classic. Sometimes you just need to find "the right car" for a race.
 
No, that's not how this game works. You can't win any race on hard with any car, no matter how good you are. It's very obvious on some of the slower races, like Sunday Cup Classic. Sometimes you just need to find "the right car" for a race.
Yes, I just looked around at the AI races to complete, realized winning 600pp@Suzuka probably isn't even hard as compared to many of those "spicy" races (labeled by 4 or 5 peppers). Have been grinding money all day and haven't touched any of those yet, but many do look scary. For example, Clubman Cup Plus, 700pp event, compete with Escudo? How am I going to use Escudo to cheat when AI uses the same beast car.

Probably a proper question is how to quickly identify a meta car for a particular event without needing to really try them all. I wish the races could have in-game leaderboards as well.

So about my failed attempt with Alphard, what is your opinion? Since you said experienced players still need proper car choices, and two above got all wins with it, (such that now I understand rheinaoi's post not only as general tuning direction education, but also the three cars listed are actually "meta"?), then what am I doing wrong here? Pure skill issues? But Escudo was a successful cheat (except at Suzuka).
 
So about my failed attempt with Alphard, what is your opinion? Since you said experienced players still need proper car choices, and two above got all wins with it, (such that now I understand rheinaoi's post not only as general tuning direction education, but also the three cars listed are actually "meta"?), then what am I doing wrong here? Pure skill issues? But Escudo was a successful cheat (except at Suzuka).
Of course skill is a factor also! But it's not the only one. It's also important to know the track and the car you're driving. It's almost impossible to be fast around a track if you don't know it well. Same for the car. How good are the brakes, where are my braking points, which gear do I take the corners with, when do I shift up to get the best acceleration and so on. And: Driving on a wet track needs practice also, especially with sport tires.

I don't know how long you already play the game, so it's hard to judge your skill based on a single race. But I can tell you that I tried this race (the first one, RBR) three times in the last days (once with an Evo IX and twice with Audi R8) and I didn't win either....and I play the game for quite some time.
It's the same as with every other game. I've seen ppl struggle with TLOU on easy mode while others do Grounded without dying. So yeah, skill is a factor. Sure you can try to practice and "git gud" but there may always be a limit based on your skill.

But I will say this again: Difficulty of races in GT7 is very inconsistent! And I'm talking about regular events, not the pepper ones. One example that comes to my mind is the WTC600 European Clubman Cup at Nordschleife with the crazy fast Giulia.
 
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Sometimes you just need to find "the right car" for a race.
This I dont agree with at all.
Of course there are better or worse cars, or cars that outright wont win a race, but you never need to find "the car" or "the setup".

But I can tell you that I tried this race (the first one, RBR) three times in the last days (once with an Evo IX and twice with Audi R8) and I didn't win either.
Maybe the Audi and Evo simply are "bad" cars, I cant tell without trying, but I am not in the mood to try out yet I dont think they are that bad - wrong setup is always possible as well.
Just did the championship with Alfa 4c and it was not challenging, using my basic tuning:
no torque upgrades for power increas only
lsd (to cheat PP downwards)
racing transmission
sport brake and pad
weight reduction to fill the PP gap
 
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This I dont agree with at all.
Of course there are better or worse cars, or cars that outright wont win a race, but you never need to find "the car" or "the setup".
Hm, well, maybe my issue is also skill based but that's indeed my impression. Take, for example, the Nordschleife race I mentioned above. You can't just grab any 600PP car and win this 'cause the Alfa is just too fast. (At least it was before the physics change, maybe it's different now).
Or the Sunday Cup Classic at Goodwood.There are not that many classic cars at this PP and while you can win with the Alfa or the Citroen it's surprisingly hard to win with other cars like the Golf GTI, the old Abarth or even the Porsche. Not saying it's impossible, as I said above one can always practice and git gud with a track/car combo but I say it's much harder than using the "meta cars". (
Although that may also be connected to the way I play the game. I stick to my own rules, like no racing parts on street car races and no passing besides the track.


Maybe the Audi and Evo simply are "bad" cars, I cant tell without trying, but I am not in the mood to try out yet I dont think they are that bad - wrong setup is always possible as well.
Nah, it was definitely my driving here😄 - at least with the Audi. A bit too aggressive on the brakes.
 
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Just tried now, with the BMW M2 Competition 405 BHP and PP 599.17, SS tires, Fully Custom Suspension, Fully Custom Diff (but not touched) Aero Parts: Front: A, Side: B, Rear: A, Wing: B, Wheels: BBS RG-F and Anti Roll Bar. (Edit. Didn't notice I had racing brake pads fitted. :embarrassed: ) Assist Settings: TC: 3, ABS: Default, ASM: On And Countersteering Assistance: Strong and on Normal difficulty.
First race was the hardest, but I won with half a sec before the RE Amemiya RX-7, no problem with winning the other two.

Gran Turismo™ 7_20241227144832.jpg


Gran Turismo™ 7_20241227144839.jpg


Gran Turismo™ 7_20241227151141.jpg
 
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@rheinaoi Update: Tried your TOYOTA Van build, couldn't catch up with Amemiya at RBR... As soon as Amemiya got first place then it becomes super fast and extends the lead further and further and there is no hope for me to get 1st so I quit. Apparently this is my skill issue but it shows how hard it is for experienced players to build tunes for noob players because you can just run with any car and win but for me it is sadly not the case. At least Escudo worked for me.

I also have difficulty to even replicate your tune. I basically bought all upgrade I can buy then I found out you didn't buy the high pressure piston. Is that intentional? Also I don't have carbon or titanium parts, which I believe only unlock at lvl 50 (I haven't yet). Do they affect pp? Also mine does not need 93 ECU (I set 96 ECU) and I have ballast 62kg, not as high as yours. Sadly I am using different units from yours so I can't even compare the numbers on the left panel. In the gearbox setting if I set the same numbers to the left of the slashes, the right numbers do not agree. My engine rpm in the gearbox setting shows 7750 rpm, which is different from yours. Don't understand why. I just used a DHL livery and bought additional rear aero parts, rims seem to be standard. However, I think even if I had the same tune, I probably still won't win, unless I use beasts like Escudo.
SIDENOTE
The Ford Mustang Boss 429 has a huge power advantage at 600pp. The throttle is a little challenging to manage. I don't like the handling of mine

Try this tune as a base (note that it's an old tune, so some things might not work)

REVISING THE ALPHARD
Ah, the Titanium Connecting Rod and High Lift Camshaft S unlock at a higher collector level (Ultimate Section of the Tuning Shop). I forgot about that.

Certain engine upgrades, especially the High Lift Camshaft S, raise your RPM. Hence the RPM difference,

I did not fit High Compression Pistons because those are for Naturally Aspirated builds only. If you fit them, GT7 unbolts your turbo and all your associated turbo parts. Conversely, when you try to put a turbo on with High Compression pistons, GT7 will remove them (you still own them).

For aero, I'm using these parts from the Custom Parts at GT Auto

Front: Type A
Side: Type B (pick whatever you want; PP is not affected)
Rear: Type B
Wing: Type A

Wheels: 18 inch (one size up from default) / Wide / Wide

The gearing is really weird. I couldn't replicate my gears with an updated build either. I'll make note of that. Usually, playing around with the Top Speed setting helps as it changes the values of all your gears.

Here's a reworked tune. Less power, less weight and more grip. It's about 1-2 seconds a lap faster everywhere, but likely not what you're looking for. The lower power is still noticeable. This is a general build for dry conditions, specifically races 2 and 3.


Alphard - Settings - 1.jpg


Alphard - Settings - 2.jpg


Alphard - Settings - Gears.jpg


This is for race 1 specifically

Alphard - Settings - Wet - 1.jpg


Alphard - Settings - Wet - 2.jpg


Alphard - Settings - Wet - Gears.jpg


The rubberbanding was so extreme during my most recent run in the Van that the RX7 came second place in all the races :lol:

OVERALL THOUGHTS
The irony is that outside of more track time, it sounds like you're looking for a PP system breaking tune. And sadly, most of those tunes come more easily to engine swapped cars. You can also search for "GT7 Glitch Builds." on here and across the web. I have little experience with those though.

OTHER HARD RACES
From memory, the races that have problematic difficulty for me have been

Fuji 700pp Clubman Plus

  • Group B Rally cars work here, but have finicky driving
  • You need VERY grippy 700pp builds on Racing TIres
  • Silvia swapped with BRZ Drift Car V8 - hard to drive but unbeatable on straightaways

Watkins Glen 600pp Clubman Plus
  • You're forced to use Sports Soft tires only
  • Ford Mustang Boss 429 has A LOT of power and grip for 600pp, and actually that should probably be one of your meta cars

Neo Classical Cup
  • The AI cheats a lot here
  • Use a Group C Car
  • Mazda 787b is the easiest to win with because of fuel consumption and tire life

Group B Rally Races
  • The AI is annoyingly quick and manages fuel and tires well
  • Eiger and Willow Springs Big Willow races are especially bad
  • You are limited to Group B cars, which all fundamentally oversteer on braking
  • Pick the Audi Sport Quattro S1 for fuel economy and tire life, or the Peugeot 205 Turbo 16 Evo for outright speed

Gr.1 Prototype Series
  • The AI is fast again, and you start way behind
  • Daytona Road Course, Suzuka and Road Atlanta are all hard races
  • Pick the Mazda LM55 for tire life, fuel economy and overall speed
  • Pick the Bugatti VGT for easier handling (needs a tune)

Red Bull X2019 Cup
  • Hard races
  • Very fast / cheating AI
  • the car you must drive is generally regarded as terrible (too fast and twitchy, traction problems in lower gears / speeds)

WTC900 Championship
  • Very fast AI
  • You start far behind
  • Use a Gr.1 car (Mazda LM55)

Super Formula Championship
  • I haven't raced this in a while, and I heard the updates adjusted the difficulty
  • But AI was incredibly quick and had crazy good tire management
  • Fuji was by far the hardest event, your win was almost luck-based depending on which AI started in the top 3
  • The Super Formula cars can be hard to drive and have similar handling quirks / problems as the Red Bull X2019

GT3 Cup
  • Very quick AI
  • Probably lots of rubberbanding
  • Limited to Gr.3 cars only
  • No tuning allowed - GT7 Balance of Performance Settings applied for you - BoP settings nerf a lot of cars
  • Deep Forest and Mount Panorama / Bathurst were REALLY hard

Kudos if you've already got 1st place finishes on all of these already. IMO, they are all as hard or harder than this WTC600 Championship.
 
Just tried now, with the BMW M2 Competition 405 BHP and PP 599.17, SS tires, Fully Custom Suspension, Fully Custom Diff (but not touched) Aero Parts: Front: A, Side: B, Rear: A, Wing: B, Wheels: BBS RG-F and Anti Roll Bar. (Edit. Didn't notice I had racing brake pads fitted. :embarrassed: ) Assist Settings: TC: 3, ABS: Default, ASM: On And Countersteering Assistance: Strong and on Normal difficulty.
First race was the hardest, but I won with half a sec before the RE Amemiya RX-7, no problem with winning the other two.

View attachment 1415943

View attachment 1415944

View attachment 1415945
Thanks! I was aiming for hard difficulty AI though. Never tried other difficulty, don't know how much they differ.
SIDENOTE
The Ford Mustang Boss 429 has a huge power advantage at 600pp. The throttle is a little challenging to manage. I don't like the handling of mine

Try this tune as a base (note that it's an old tune, so some things might not work)

REVISING THE ALPHARD
Ah, the Titanium Connecting Rod and High Lift Camshaft S unlock at a higher collector level (Ultimate Section of the Tuning Shop). I forgot about that.

Certain engine upgrades, especially the High Lift Camshaft S, raise your RPM. Hence the RPM difference,

I did not fit High Compression Pistons because those are for Naturally Aspirated builds only. If you fit them, GT7 unbolts your turbo and all your associated turbo parts. Conversely, when you try to put a turbo on with High Compression pistons, GT7 will remove them (you still own them).

For aero, I'm using these parts from the Custom Parts at GT Auto

Front: Type A
Side: Type B (pick whatever you want; PP is not affected)
Rear: Type B
Wing: Type A

Wheels: 18 inch (one size up from default) / Wide / Wide

The gearing is really weird. I couldn't replicate my gears with an updated build either. I'll make note of that. Usually, playing around with the Top Speed setting helps as it changes the values of all your gears.

Here's a reworked tune. Less power, less weight and more grip. It's about 1-2 seconds a lap faster everywhere, but likely not what you're looking for. The lower power is still noticeable. This is a general build for dry conditions, specifically races 2 and 3.


View attachment 1415914

View attachment 1415915

View attachment 1415916

This is for race 1 specifically

View attachment 1415917

View attachment 1415918

View attachment 1415919

The rubberbanding was so extreme during my most recent run in the Van that the RX7 came second place in all the races :lol:

OVERALL THOUGHTS
The irony is that outside of more track time, it sounds like you're looking for a PP system breaking tune. And sadly, most of those tunes come more easily to engine swapped cars. You can also search for "GT7 Glitch Builds." on here and across the web. I have little experience with those though.

OTHER HARD RACES
From memory, the races that have problematic difficulty for me have been

Fuji 700pp Clubman Plus
  • Group B Rally cars work here, but have finicky driving
  • You need VERY grippy 700pp builds on Racing TIres
  • Silvia swapped with BRZ Drift Car V8 - hard to drive but unbeatable on straightaways

Watkins Glen 600pp Clubman Plus
  • You're forced to use Sports Soft tires only
  • Ford Mustang Boss 429 has A LOT of power and grip for 600pp, and actually that should probably be one of your meta cars

Neo Classical Cup
  • The AI cheats a lot here
  • Use a Group C Car
  • Mazda 787b is the easiest to win with because of fuel consumption and tire life

Group B Rally Races
  • The AI is annoyingly quick and manages fuel and tires well
  • Eiger and Willow Springs Big Willow races are especially bad
  • You are limited to Group B cars, which all fundamentally oversteer on braking
  • Pick the Audi Sport Quattro S1 for fuel economy and tire life, or the Peugeot 205 Turbo 16 Evo for outright speed

Gr.1 Prototype Series
  • The AI is fast again, and you start way behind
  • Daytona Road Course, Suzuka and Road Atlanta are all hard races
  • Pick the Mazda LM55 for tire life, fuel economy and overall speed
  • Pick the Bugatti VGT for easier handling (needs a tune)

Red Bull X2019 Cup
  • Hard races
  • Very fast / cheating AI
  • the car you must drive is generally regarded as terrible (too fast and twitchy, traction problems in lower gears / speeds)

WTC900 Championship
  • Very fast AI
  • You start far behind
  • Use a Gr.1 car (Mazda LM55)

Super Formula Championship
  • I haven't raced this in a while, and I heard the updates adjusted the difficulty
  • But AI was incredibly quick and had crazy good tire management
  • Fuji was by far the hardest event, your win was almost luck-based depending on which AI started in the top 3
  • The Super Formula cars can be hard to drive and have similar handling quirks / problems as the Red Bull X2019

GT3 Cup
  • Very quick AI
  • Probably lots of rubberbanding
  • Limited to Gr.3 cars only
  • No tuning allowed - GT7 Balance of Performance Settings applied for you - BoP settings nerf a lot of cars
  • Deep Forest and Mount Panorama / Bathurst were REALLY hard

Kudos if you've already got 1st place finishes on all of these already. IMO, they are all as hard or harder than this WTC600 Championship.
Thank you @rheinaoi I tried your new van build, does feel very consistent and quite fast. I am just not good enough. I can easily beat other AIs, and I drove as fast as that Amemiya. Finally got 2nd at RBR with 2 or 3 seconds gap, maintaining from lap 3.

But that Mustang, it is a beast! It is exactly what I was looking for. You are right, I was looking for PP cheaters. That mustang is basically an Escudo but with the difference that it is so low in PP that it can use SS tires, which is a must for Suzuka. I copied most of the tunes in the post, except some aero/ballast adjustments to fulfill the new pp system. And for the gearbox I couldn't replicate that at all, therefore I just chose some random top speed 330km/h. It beats the Amemiya at Suzuka! SS tires helped a lot when cornering, and that sheer horsepower, combined with such light weight (basically nearly the same weight as Amemiya), so satisfying to take over Amemiya at one not-so-long long straight at Suzuka in lap 4, and maintained that lead. It turns out that the HP/weight ratio is the correct thing to look at, and my original question "with SS tires and 600pp, which car has the highest HP/weight ratio?" seems to be the correct question to ask. I don't know if this mustang is, but it certainly has a very high ratio. Many cars from a random pick, will easily fail in that aspect when compared to Amemiya.

I didn't have too much trouble at RBR, but I agree with you, despite it being a beast, the throttle control can be painful for this car, especially in wet conditions. Mustang has a great potential to spin out. Fortunately, recently I received a lot of rear-wheel drive throttle control practices, and at RBR even being slightly gentle, can still win Amemiya (with a short lead though).

Mustang boss has an added benefit that it is a reward car from menu 14. New players could possibly replicate this as everybody should at least have one. Never expected a free old car from 1969 can be this powerful. I guess I am a muscle car fan now.

Now I finally have three wins on hard difficulty for this event, I am still interested in more PP glitched builds. I will look for them later.
 
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