O.D. Engineering - Dusty Garage † RIP ↰ † 911/996 GT3 Cup Car & 911/964 Turbo 3.6

[OdeFinn]

@Khel46 tried '12 black edition gt-r with Sports Soft as is and evolved it little further, still being "base":
82/82 SS TIRES
11.08/5.59
6/3
7/4
4/3
-2.1/-2.0
-0.17/+0.07
BB 6/6 standard brakes
GB STOCK
Drivetrain -
Custom LSD (F/R)
6/8
9/28
6/14
Stock clutch
Carbon propeller driveshaft
Stock Central differential
Power -
Power limiter 93%
Engine Stage 3
Sports computer
Racing exhaust
Standard manifold
Sports catalytic converter
Standard Intake
Normal turbo
Body -
Aero Kit Type A
Special wing Type A
Aero Downforce 20/35
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon bonnet
Window weight reduction
STOCK WHEELS
BODY RIGIDITY INSTALLED
NO OIL CHANGE

With above settings you should get 600pp/684hp/1386kg/76kgfm(76.4) and lapping constant 54 and capable under on Tsukuba, easy under 7 min on Nordschleife.
When that feels easy, as it is, you can have it more "rwd" styled just by changing rear LSD acceleration 28 to 29 and rear is usable as rwd.

 

[OdeFinn]

SCCA SPEC MIATA BoP​

BASE tune and SCCA SPEC MIATA regulations for NA (1.6&1.8) 1:1 to real.
Didn't check standard Eunos Roadsters, but premium ones are lined up fine.

Base tune for all:
NO OIL CHANGE <- Mandatory
BODY RIGIDITY INSTALLED <- nearly mandatory to replicate roll cage on example base tune
Stock size wheels <- Mandatory
NO aero parts <- Mandatory
Sports Hard tires <- Mandatory
NoABS <- suggestion, nearly mandatory to replicate real

Driver may alter suspension setup except spring rate is mandatory spec miata value as is, brakes has to be standard, bias is free to change.
Power parts are listed as is, no alteration allowed.
Weight of car has to stay at least minimum given value, reductions and different amount of ballast may apply, also ballast positioning is free, so car weight ratio can be changed.
Weight minimums are 2300 pounds (1043kg) 1600cm² and 2350 pounds (1066kg) 1800cm² engine cars.
Transmission has to be as is stock as well clutch, small variation on LSD is possible by 3-clicks range on acceleration and deceleration. You may change stock LSD to custom and use given values.

112/112
12.50/5.80 (or on 1600cm2's 12.48/5.79) <- Mandatory spring rates, real-world regulation
4/4
6/6
4/3
3.0/2.5
-0.29/+0.05
Standard Brakes 6/6 <- Mandatory standard brakesreal-world regulation, bias is free

Stock Gearbox <- Mandatory stock 5-Speed, real-world regulation
Stock clutch <- Mandatory stock clutch, real-world regulation
LSD - stock if there is, or optional 5/16-18/6-8, driver defines what he like in "tolerance", no other values allowed.
Ballast up to needed weight, free positioning by driver, may play with reduction first if wants.


MX-5 MIATA (NA) '89
MX-5 (NA) '89
º 368pp 140hp 1043kg
- carbon propeller shaft
- semi-racing exhaust
- isometric exhaust manifold
- intake tuning

EUNOS ROADSTER (NA SPECIAL PACKAGE) '89
º 366pp 133hp 1043kg
- 98.8% power limiter
- carbon propeller shaft
- semi-racing exhaust
- intake tuning

EUNOS ROADSTER J-LIMITED (NA) '91
MX-5 MIATA J-LIMITED (NA, J) '91
MX-5 J-LIMITED (NA, J) '91
º 366pp 140hp 1043kg
- carbon propeller shaft
- semi-racing exhaust
- isometric exhaust manifold
- intake tuning

MX-5 MIATA J-LIMITED II (NA, J) '93
MX-5 J-LIMITED II (NA, J) '93
MX-5 MIATA V-SPECIAL TYPE II (NA, J) '93
MX-5 V-SPECIAL TYPE II (NA, J) '93
MX-5 MIATA S-SPECIAL TYPE I (NA, J) '95
MX-5 S-SPECIAL TYPE I (NA, J) '95
MX-5 MIATA VR-LIMITED (NA, J) '95
MX-5 MIATA SR-LIMITED (NA, J) '97
MX-5 SR-LIMITED (NA, J) '97
º 370pp 145hp 1066kg
- carbon propeller shaft
- semi-racing exhaust
- catalytic converter sports

* Bonus Car, NB model 1600cm², on right hands too fast, so not usable under SPEC, maybe only with newbie driver *
MX-5 MIATA 1600 NR-A (NB, J) '04
MX-5 1600 NR-A (NB, J) '04
º 367pp 133hp 1043kg
- 97.0% power limiter
- carbon propeller shaft
- semi-racing exhaust
- isometric exhaust manifold
- window weight reduction

 

[OdeFinn]

Nissan SILVIA K's Dia Selection (S13) '90 - Entry-level Budget Drifter Replica
460pp​

Tuned for version 1.2x
NO Oil change
Body Rigidity Installed
Suspension (Full Custom) - Comfort Hard
Ride Height (mm): 82 / 82
Spring Rate (kgf/mm): 8.00 / 6.00
Dampers (Compression): 7 / 7
Dampers (Extension): 7 / 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 7 / 6
Camber Angle (-): 4.0 / 0.0
Toe Angle: -0.43 / +0.00
Brake Balance Controller
Standard Brakes
Brake Balance: 3 / 6

Drivetrain
LSD 38/43/43
Triple-Plate Clutch
Carbon Propeller Shaft

Power for 255BHP/342Nm/460pp
Limiter - 100%
Racing Exhaust
Catalytic Converter Sports
Intake Tuning
Low RPM Range Turbo


Gearbox - Stock
__________
#1___3.321
#2___1.902
#3___1.308
#4___1.000
#5___0.838
__________
Final__4.363

Body weight 954kg - Body Rigidity INSTALLED! (58:42 balance)

Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon bonnet
Window weight reduction
Aero Kit type B
Custom wing F,F,L Height +0, Width +0
Aero Downforce 7
Optional Ballast to balance drift more 20kg @+17 or use Front Aero Kit A and no ballast.

Wheels +2" RAYS 57D grey (1st)



Well.. I read Mike Kojima's drifting chassis setup guide, it works truly fine in GT6.
For clearance front creates camber throw, rear doesn't (in GT6), so front camber+toe are resulting -0.03 toe out, rear zeroed as Mike suggests.
Every part has important role on tune, do all parts and settings as is or don't bother to try.
Even changing wing stay or winglet different will break tune, so follow all and you'll get beautifully balanced drifter.
Again, everything includes wheel model and colour too, please follow setup truly as is.

Personal best front camber/toe -4.5/-0.48, you can try what suites best for your, easy to keep that "-0.03" out on any camber, pad driver probably benefits even bigger front camber, me as G27 wheel driver had enough on 4.5, it never hits on lock, or if hits then I'm already nearly impossible drift to save by counter steer.

 

[Death2508]

Dampers at 7!?!? I've never pushed my damps past 5 but hell I'll try it sometime.

 

[OdeFinn]

Dampers at 7!?!? I've never pushed my damps past 5 but hell I'll try it sometime.

Worth of testing, behaves like real deal.
7 is good balance on this 255hp car, it has just enough power to overcome traction easily and maintain slide on both sides of optimal drift angle.
Probably if adding more power car will need more traction and then reducing dampers would be necessary, and/or more downforce on wing.

 

[Death2508]

The thing I don't like about some cars is how friggen fast they get with high damps/springs to the point where I slide wayyy too much (I'm not a fan of drifting at 15mph) because I entered too fast.

Worth of testing, behaves like real deal.
7 is good balance on this 255hp car, it has just enough power to overcome traction easily and maintain slide on both sides of optimal drift angle.
Probably if adding more power car will need more traction and then reducing dampers would be necessary, and/or more downforce on wing.

 

[OdeFinn]

The thing I don't like about some cars is how friggen fast they get with high damps/springs to the point where I slide wayyy too much (I'm not a fan of drifting at 15mph) because I entered too fast.

You're not entry-level drifter, lol
I'm gonna examine that drifter lot more later, from that chassis I believe at following normal tuning principles is possible to do anything, I'm meaning implementing real-world way of improving chassis handling and that's on my list to do, gonna check dampening/ride height for high speed drifting, along with higher power engine etc, anyway current state is fine proof of concept implementing 1:1 real-world drift setup in GT6.
What track you suggest for easy high speed drifting, I'm not drifter (at least yet) in GT6, on real-world snow and gravel is familiar for playing around on sideways, but not qualified drifter.

Edit 1:Tested more, shouldn't be a big deal to change setup for higher speeds, tell me approx drift speeds required and track where you're wishing to do it, makes easier to crack setup.
Doing testing by just changing setup in way what could be done on irl, sufficient changes and results available.

Edit 2: Added more power, similar band (engine stage 2, sports computer, racing exhaust, isometric manifold, intake tuning, low RPM turbo, others stock, 493pp/327hp/43.1kgfm) rear bottoms on high load, lifted to 84(only rear), dampers and arb same on this point. (Height 82/84 on this point)
Front camber must be checked to suite your style, if it oversteer during drift on FRONT, then reduce until it doesn't, or if front feels to understeer on drift then increase camber, maintain "-0.03" on toe, mraning camber -4.3 and then toe is -0.46. (I'm playing between -4.0 and -4.5 currently)
If throttle(power) makes rear skid and jump too easily to side and over, increase downforce (I'm currently on 9, current test values in brackets)
If rear has tendency to go over during drift slide with stable throttle(oversteer on rear, not enough grip on sideways), increase rear camber (currently -0.2)
If car doesn't want to straighten when lifting throttle, increase rear toe-in (currently +0.01)
(Adobe were when testing to get it work better on higher speeds, so just curiosity)

After more and more testing I find my personal favorite as same what's on tune post, not sure how much camber but in range of that -4.0 & -4.5. Only power part I find useful above that 255hp is sports ECU, stretching RPM Range longer without messing power & torque ratio on same RPM's as 255hp version, longer RPM range, longer throttle range, easier to maintain drift..

So checking what's nice for it, anyhow it's not a car capable to drift 200kmh, lack of power currently at least.

 

[Death2508]

SSR5 Clubman offers high speed drifts, and so does the ebisu tracks that you can download. Tsukuba is good for medium speed, Trial Mountain is good for high, Cape Ring is good for high, etc. Just pick a track over 1.5 miles with good looking turns and it will be pretty fast.

 

[OdeFinn]

@steve nfs you put nice question considering 288 and Spa at 550pp, had to check my tune 288GTO and test it, fixed that to suite my style, reduced lot rear slippage from original at Spa, also way what power parts used makes that traction loss easier on rear..
Changes from original to adapt 550pp@Spa with SM:
Height 107/107
Camber 1.2/1.2
Toe -0.03/+0.27
LSD 5/31/19
Power limiter 99.7%
Intake Tuning
Low RPM Turbo

Rest as on original.
Well driveable on NoABS, easy with ABS.

 

[steve nfs]

@steve nfs you put nice question considering 288 and Spa at 550pp, had to check my tune 288GTO and test it, fixed that to suite my style, reduced lot rear slippage from original at Spa, also way what power parts used makes that traction loss easier on rear..
Changes from original to adapt 550pp@Spa with SM:
Height 107/107
Camber 1.2/1.2
Toe -0.03/+0.27
LSD 5/31/19
Power limiter 99.7%
Intake Tuning
Low RPM Turbo

Rest as on original.
Well driveable on NoABS, easy with ABS.

I'm also tune those cars without ABS, to make it more close to real world lap times. Tune an easy to drive fast consistency lap times is more important than over cook fast lap. A little silly mistake cost you the whole race !
Ps; Now I am using a wheel, no more Ds3 but driving without ABS with this brake pedal SUCKS !

 

[OdeFinn]

I'm also tune those cars without ABS, to make it more close to real world lap times. Tune an easy to drive fast consistency lap times is more important than over cook fast lap. A little silly mistake cost you the whole race !
Ps; Now I am using a wheel, no more Ds3 but driving without ABS with this brake pedal SUCKS !

What wheel you have? Try 4/4 brakes on tune if you're heavy on pedal.
I invested on AP Electrix brake mod long time ago, real game changer on my G27.

 

[steve nfs]

What wheel you have? Try 4/4 brakes on tune if you're heavy on pedal.
I invested on AP Electrix brake mod long time ago, real game changer on my G27.

T300RS, but the brake pedal really too fake for me especially not using ABS. For my brake pedal I set to; Standard brake 5/3.

 

[OdeFinn]

T300RS, but the brake pedal really too fake for me especially not using ABS. For my brake pedal I set to; Standard brake 5/3.

Good wheel, pedals truly could be better. On GTO I didn't like other than equal bias, 5/5 is good for smooth breaking, 4/4 for bit aggressive pedal use, front biased brakes on it was upsetting overall balance on corner entry, but didn't try low as 3 on rear.
How it worked in other aspects while driving? During testing it went stable 2:28 on me.

 

[steve nfs]

Good wheel, pedals truly could be better. On GTO I didn't like other than equal bias, 5/5 is good for smooth breaking, 4/4 for bit aggressive pedal use, front biased brakes on it was upsetting overall balance on corner entry, but didn't try low as 3 on rear.
How it worked in other aspects while driving? During testing it went stable 2:28 on me.

With my no ABS tune the fast lap is around 2:26, more relaxing & consistent is 2:27 low. This car from my own tune need to brake earlier & don't release too soon. Still hate my original brake pedal .

 

[OdeFinn]

Nissan SILVIA spec-R AERO (S15) '02 - Entry-level Budget Drifter Replica #2
488pp​

Tuned for version 1.2x
NO Oil change
Body Rigidity Installed
Suspension (Full Custom) - Comfort Hard
Ride Height (mm): 82 / 82
Spring Rate (kgf/mm): 8.00 / 6.00
Dampers (Compression): 7 / 7
Dampers (Extension): 7 / 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 7 / 6
Camber Angle (-): 4.0 / 0.0
Toe Angle: -0.43 / +0.00
Brake Balance Controller
Standard Brakes
Brake Balance: 3 / 6

Drivetrain
LSD 38/43/43
Triple-Plate Clutch
Carbon Propeller Shaft

Power for 331BHP/366Nm/488pp
Limiter - 100%
Racing Exhaust
Catalytic Converter Sports
Intake Tuning
Low RPM Range Turbo


Gearbox - Stock
__________
#1___3.626
#2___2.200
#3___1.541
#4___1.213
#5___1.000
#6___0.767
__________
Final__3.692

Body weight 1039kg - Body Rigidity INSTALLED! (55:45 balance)

Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon bonnet
Window weight reduction
Aero Kit type A
Custom wing F,F,L Height +0, Width +0
Aero Downforce 7


Wheels +2" RAYS 57D grey (1st)



More Mike Kojima's drift stuff implemented on GT6, S15 weight balance makes it nicer to drift than S13, but now there's added on S13 tune few extra kilos to keep it smoother..
Practically just slammed S13 setup here, works so well at decided to keep it as is.

 

[OdeFinn]

Nissan 240SX '96 - Entry-level Budget Drifter Replica #3
476pp​

Tuned for version 1.2x
NO Oil change
Body Rigidity Installed
Suspension (Full Custom) - Comfort Hard
Ride Height (mm): 82 / 82
Spring Rate (kgf/mm): 8.00 / 6.00
Dampers (Compression): 7 / 7
Dampers (Extension): 7 / 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 7 / 6
Camber Angle (-): 4.2 / 0.0
Toe Angle: -0.45 / +0.00
Brake Balance Controller
Standard Brakes
Brake Balance: 3 / 6

Drivetrain
LSD 38/43/43
Triple-Plate Clutch
Carbon Propeller Shaft

Power for 297BHP/405Nm/476pp
Limiter - 100%
Racing Exhaust
Catalytic Converter Sports
Intake Tuning
Low RPM Range Turbo


Gearbox - Stock
__________
#1___3.321
#2___1.902
#3___1.308
#4___1.000
#5___0.759
__________
Final__4.083

Body weight 1022kg - Body Rigidity INSTALLED! (58:42 balance)

Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon bonnet
Window weight reduction
Custom wing F,F,L Height +0, Width +0
Aero Downforce 7


Wheels +2" RAYS 57D grey (1st)



Personal favorite of these three drifters, only "standard quality" sadly.
But concept is here, real-world setups can be implemented on GT6 really easy.

 

[Death2508]

You slam cars then tune to make up for it, I see.

 

[OdeFinn]

You slam cars then tune to make up for it, I see.

Yes and no
Those three are just one set of successful proof of concept, making setup on GT6 doesn't need tuner to be a rocket scientist, just understanding basics both, real and GT6 world and work is easy.
All three Nissans are handling differently, basic mass movement is kinda same, but due different wheelbase, track width, weight distribution, power band and gearbox are giving all cars their own handling characteristics.
You can call those tunes base tunes with small honing, power parts are tested to work on setup, changing parts with different will make handling change instantly and more tuning is required for smooth overall packet.
About slamming, if speaking body, it's sailing now on all three at average height which isn't bottoming or making too floaty sail on rear, ±1mm change on those can break handling really badly, depending car.

You should test those, at least 240SX, remember to try out what camber on front suits your controller input speed/range.

 

[Death2508]

Your tunes are rock hard IMO. You feel every bump and are screwed if you hit a curb because your entire car comes up instead of just the wheels. I prefer a bit of looseness and body roll in my tunes.

 

[OdeFinn]

Your tunes are rock hard IMO. You feel every bump and are screwed if you hit a curb because your entire car comes up instead of just the wheels. I prefer a bit of looseness and body roll in my tunes.

If you're driving with ABS it will limit suspension moves even more and definitely many of my tunes aren't in anyway soft for ABS usage, noABS driving will have own benefits.
Personally like realistic hardness on body movements, not rock hard but stiff, those are stiff for driving wheel, might be rock hard for DS controller.
Hopefully you have change to try out them without ABS with driving wheel and you'll might hit the same wave what I'm riding on them.

 

[OdeFinn]

Just because camber is broken and raked ride height makes (front) heavy cars to understeer, specially when body rigidity is installed...
..so stock cars, only changes are installed body rigidity, custom suspension and aligned ride height, camber and toe.
And all are running few grade lower compound:

Pozzi MotorSports Camaro RS: SH-tires
55/75 ride height
1.9/0.3 camber
-0.18/+0.09 toe

Stielow Engineering Red Devil: SH-tires
55/73
1.9/0.6
-0.19/+0.06

Art Morrison Corvette'60: SH-tires
109/130
1.7/0.3
-0.17/+0.09

So this is just experimental test, super simple, but those cars should now just understeer a lot because of earlier mentioned ways on setup, thank God at everything isn't going like guides are stating.

Continuing this story, will add few similar "tunes", few grade dropped compound and only above areas touched on tune.

Mazda MX-5 Miata 1.8 RS (NB,J) '98 on Comfort Hard tires, body rigidity installed:
110/135
2.0/1.4
-0.20/+0.01
(Tested this also with all power upgrades in Tsukuba, 503pp/383hp/1030kg, using CH 1:10.8, CS 1:05.7, SH 1:03.1, SS 59.9, only change between compound is 1mm height change per grade, noABS)

Volkswagen Golf IV GTI '01, comfort hard, this can't be working..
105/125
1.5/0.4
-0.15/±0.00
(But it works, why this works, it should work on real-life, but why it works also in GT6? Lol, tested up to SS compound with that 1mm/grade change with maxed power 479pp/362hp/1280kg, worked fine, Tsukuba SS 1:01.7 noABS)

Lancia Stratos '73 on Comfort Hard, tested up to SS with 1mm/grade height change:
114/139
2.0/1.4
-0.20/+0.05
On SS tires with stock power noABS laps stable 1:04, best during testing was 1:04.3.
CS tires noABS on Nordschleife it goes 8:36.853 on first try, ready to use, excellent if adjusting dampers/arb too.

PS. Those are driveable as is, but if you apply damper and ARB setup also then those will become really good, but this post is only to show one way possible, lot of improvements could be done on those with other settings.

 

[Jimmy Haight]

View attachment 579163
Nissan GT-R SpevV '09
~555 - 663pp​

Tuned for version 1.2x
NO Oil change
Suspension (Full Custom) - Comfort Softs (to Racing Softs, read info)
Ride Height (mm): 85 / 85
Spring Rate (kgf/mm): 10.73 / 5.41
Dampers (Compression): 6 / 3
Dampers (Extension): 6 / 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 / 3
Camber Angle (-): 2.1 / 2.0
Toe Angle: -0.17 / +0.07 (alternate rear toe for loose drive +0.06)
Brake Balance Controller
Standard Brakes - If using ABS you can try racing brakes
Brake Balance: 6 / 6

Drivetrain - Whole section STOCK, open front and stock rear LSD

Power for 493-1023BHP/612-1030Nm/555-663pp
Limiter - 100%
Any parts, depends how brave you are, car will handle all.


Gearbox - Stock
__________
#1___4.056
#2___2.301
#3___1.595
#4___1.248
#5___1.000
#6___0.796
__________
Final__3.700

Body weight 1345kg - Body Rigidity INSTALLED! (52:48 balance) - painted with Nissan Ultimate Opal Black(RP)

Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon bonnet
Window weight reduction
Aero Kit type A
Special wing type A
Aero Downforce
20 / 29


Stock wheels


For all brave ones like @TurnLeft
Practically Base-Tuned GT-R, but base is so stiff at it will handle everything.
Lot of tuning components are on stock condition, just because whole car started from idea of max tuned GT-R which power weight ratio goes close to those real-world 1300hp gtrs, well this has it, and bit more after reduced weight.
Tuning was started on Sports Hard, verified with SS, then lapped 1:29 on Fuji with RS and dropping down on Comfort Softs at Nordschleife with moderate ~650hp and lapped 7:27 on first try, including 360° and bit playing around.

Different tire compound grades need different ride height(1mm/grade):
CS=85
SH=84
SS=82
RS=79

Now just test how brave you are and how weak tires and how much power you can take.

NoABS, but will work also with them, using ABS allows you to stiffen brakes.

Edit: alternate more planted version setup: Damper Extension 7/4 & Rear Wing Aero 35

Good tune, easy win 600pp bathurst seasonal 600pp ss tyre

 

[OdeFinn]

Superquick exemple on basic weight transfer, suspension load etc..

Example car: 1000kg 60:40 weight distribution and quite lot power
Front axle holds 600kg static weight, each individual front wheel has 300kg static weight load.
Rear axle holds 400kf static weight, each individual rear wheel has 200kg static weight load.
During cornering without brake or acceleration approx 50% of opposite side individual wheel load transfers to other side, meaning on front wheels inner wheel holds only 150kg and outer has 450kg load to carry.
During braking approx 50% or rear weight load transfers toward front, leaving rear load only 200kg, 100kg per side and front takes 800kg load.
During acceleration even on high powered (not drag top fuel) has power to squat rear and transfer approx 25% of front weight toward rear, meaning on our example car adding 150kg extra on rear load, totaling 550kg on rear axle, 275kg per wheel.

These are pure basics, then braking and turning same time will push even more on outer front wheel etc..

After understanding this you'll figure at you have to supply your car static load casing springs bit differently than just taking care of static load, dynamic load should be handled as well.
Quick answer,
front: static front weight+half of rear weight= needed spring to carry load (compromise suggested to match also lateral, which is bigger than longitudinal on this case)
Rear: static rear weight+quarter of front weight= needed spring to carry load (on this example, this is enough coz lateral weight transfer on rear stays under front also, 150kg longitudinal transfer, 100kg lateral, so using spring rate to supply 150 kg extra will handle 100kg lateral too, but it will make rear "stiff", compromising between those two will give best cornering to car)


Next is done super easy and simple way, using close to normal cars center of gravity and wheelbase.

 

[Jimmy Haight]

Just because camber is broken and raked ride height makes (front) heavy cars to understeer, specially when body rigidity is installed...
..so stock cars, only changes are installed body rigidity, custom suspension and aligned ride height, camber and toe.
And all are running few grade lower compound:

Pozzi MotorSports Camaro RS: SH-tires
55/75 ride height
1.9/0.3 camber
-0.18/+0.09 toe

Stielow Engineering Red Devil: SH-tires
55/73
1.9/0.6
-0.19/+0.06

Art Morrison Corvette'60: SH-tires
109/130
1.7/0.3
-0.17/+0.09

So this is just experimental test, super simple, but those cars should now just understeer a lot because of earlier mentioned ways on setup, thank God at everything isn't going like guides are stating.

Continuing this story, will add few similar "tunes", few grade dropped compound and only above areas touched on tune.

Mazda MX-5 Miata 1.8 RS (NB,J) '98 on Comfort Hard tires, body rigidity installed:
110/135
2.0/1.4
-0.20/+0.01
(Tested this also with all power upgrades in Tsukuba, 503pp/383hp/1030kg, using CH 1:10.8, CS 1:05.7, SH 1:03.1, SS 59.9, only change between compound is 1mm height change per grade, noABS)

Volkswagen Golf IV GTI '01, comfort hard, this can't be working..
105/125
1.5/0.4
-0.15/±0.00
(But it works, why this works, it should work on real-life, but why it works also in GT6? Lol, tested up to SS compound with that 1mm/grade change with maxed power 479pp/362hp/1280kg, worked fine, Tsukuba SS 1:01.7 noABS)

Lancia Stratos '73 on Comfort Hard, tested up to SS with 1mm/grade height change:
114/139
2.0/1.4
-0.20/+0.05
On SS tires with stock power noABS laps stable 1:04, best during testing was 1:04.3.
CS tires noABS on Nordschleife it goes 8:36.853 on first try, ready to use, excellent if adjusting dampers/arb too.

PS. Those are driveable as is, but if you apply damper and ARB setup also then those will become really good, but this post is only to show one way possible, lot of improvements could be done on those with other settings.

I am looking forward to trying the Pozzi Camaro settings, i have given up on trying to tune this one, one of the best looking cars in the game, sounds great too ,it just gives me a headache driving it, will let you know how it goes.

 

[OdeFinn]

I am looking forward to trying the Pozzi Camaro settings, i have given up on trying to tune this one, one of the best looking cars in the game, sounds great too ,it just gives me a headache driving it, will let you know how it goes.

That's just simple tame for it, remember to adjust height 1mm/compound, so dropping -2mm both ends of going on stock SS.

You should test stock power Stratos alignment too how "camber reduces" grip.. lol.

 

[OdeFinn]

@Thorin Cain that spring rate formula what you use is kinda fine, I use it on similar way, except I'm leaving spare for suspension moving and cutting marginal after it.

Meaning if you're on ride height 65 I cut it 5-10 from it, so using 55-60 on calculation(5 on race cars, 10 street cars) , and after final sum I'll cut out marginal weight of suspension by multiplying it 0.965(last thing to do after all other math). Examples on links are all counting axle weight, not single wheel, needs to divide two results. Without dividing it makes double frequency on suspension and directly means stiffer dampers need.
Multiplying by 1.5 up to 3.5 is giving good base frequencies, or basic street suspension if leaving as is.

I'm counting earlier mentioned weight transfers on weight distribution prior spring rate calculations.

 

[Thorin Cain]

Thanks for the info Ode . That formula was old one I used way back. But I found a way of directly applying frequency based rates for springs. It is a complicated system based on the assumption that PD used a suspension system based around a 1:1 motion ratio . I can directly apply balanced spring sets from 1-5 Hz (including bump shock ratios) then do any fine tuning from there . One of these days I'm going to have to learn how to use excel so I can make it a bit less time consuming .

 

[OdeFinn]

My above method gives you result as approx 1hz (bit above, far away from 2hz), for track usage multiplying it i.e. 1.5 brings it between 2-3Hz.
Doubling spring tension makes hertz up 1.4Hz, if your springs are 1Hz springs and double tension you'll end up 2.4Hz springs, it's close to that, not far.

 

[OdeFinn]

Bare exemple, using Mazda MX-5 Miata 1.8 RS (NB,J) '98 as example car, using stock height 135mm.
53:47 balance, stock height 135mm 1030kg mass.
(Doing slow way math, can be counted on one line too with lot of brackets)

Front axle weight: 545.9kg (1030*0.53)
Front single wheel weight: 272.95 (half of axle mass)
Front lateral weight transfer: 136.475kg (half of single wheel load)
Longitudinal weight transfer from rear to front: 242.05kg, 121.025kg per wheel.

Rear weight. 484.1kg (1030*0.47)
Rear single wheel weight: 242.05kg (half of axle mass)
Rear lateral weight transfer: 121.025kg (half of single wheel load)
Longitudinal weight transfer from front to rear: 136.475kg, 68.2375kg per wheel (25% of front axle load, 12.5% per wheel)

So using averages of longitudinal and lateral transfers on calculations, meaning on front extra 128.75kg/wheel and rear 94.63125kg. It could be done with value between front 121.025kg - 136.475kg and rear 68.2375kg - 121.025kg, and depending body movements it can be useful to alter for better movements of body, rotation, grip etc.

Front:
(272.95+128.75)/125=3.2136 (total front load, divided stock 135mm-10mm)
3.2136*0.965=3.101124 (counting out suspension unsprung weight, approximation)
3.101124 = base ~1hz+ (above due included weight transfer on springs)
(3.2136*2)*0.965=6.202248 = base ~2.4hz trackday suspension

Rear:
(242.05+94.63125)/125=2.69345 (Total rear load, divided stock 135mm-10mm)
2.69345*0.965=2.59917925 (counting out suspension unsprung weight, approximation)
2.59917925 = base ~1Hz+ (above due included weight transfer on springs)
(2.59917925*2)*0.965=5.1983585 = base ~2.4Hz trackday suspension

But to remember how stiff you want your suspension to be, 2.4Hz is moderate trackday setup.
Below 2Hz is just soft stock, autocross style suspension.
Between 2-3Hz low end for trackday, high for more track setup
3-4.5Hz race cars with low wings or without.
Above 4.5Hz race cars with wings, topping somewhere 7.5Hz to 8.5Hz

So Miata could benefit bit stiffer suspension, maybe close to 3Hz. (Btw rising 1Hz suspension stiffness is handled on dampers by also lifting one bigger value, approximation .)

Edit: mistake in texts, base 1Hz is higher than it, due added weight transfer amounts, without those it would be 1Hz. But doesn't matter..
Edit2: fixing mistake, I was using front axle full weight longitudinal transfer amount on rear, now using single wheel amount, changes rear bit softer.

 

[Thorin Cain]

That is quite the bit quicker than the way I do it....much like your driving . Pretty close to the results I get the long way, with 6.89/6.20 for a target of 2.5Hz.
Will have to give that one a try out.
Thanks Ode