Honestly this is a game you cannot get used to in 10 minutes. You really need to practice quite a lot, but once you learn to drive it there is no other experience like it on consoles. The racing is exceptional, challenging and really gets the adrenaline pumping.
You have to approach it as if you were racing in real life - you simply can't jump in a car as a rookie & expect to be fabulous and win every race.
but I promise you the effort is well worth it!
I fully agree with mr_s. S2U is a racing simulator and not a driving simulator. Get used to the physics in a proggresive way. Start with the forgiving FWD cars in D-class and work your way up slowly. You are not going to like this game trying to race a works Bugatti on your first outing
It seems there are a few members who got the game cheap on sales, or on Playstation Plus and are playing it for the first time. In my experience, playing S2U for more than a year now, I will give you a few suggestions and tips to hopefully help you make the transition from the driving game to S2U a bit easier. I use a wheel so not everything might apply to controllers. For those folks familiar with S2U please ignore my suggestions
Assists
There is no shame in using assists to start with. Turn them on, feel what the car does...turn them off and see what happens. It is the only way you will learn what they do. Generally speaking traction control on, will give you more cornering force and therefore the car will tend to push (understeer). TC on the low setting is more realistic and easier to corner in a smoother way. Stability control will help in keeping the car more stabile in a staight line at high speeds and less prone to wander. SC also assists in slowing down entering a corner and exiting, making snap oversteer/understeer traits more predictable and manageable. Of all assists, I found SC to be the most usefull when I started, especially with high powered Works converted cars.
Gameplay settings
There is the issue of lag, more so when playing online, and complaints of a slow response to driver input. I have eliminated this by setting:
Force feedback - 100%
All deadzones - 1%
Steering and Brake sensitivity - 98%
Steering lock - 270 degrees
Speed sensitivity - 0%
Now I know perfectly well the above settings does not suit everyone, in particular my steering lock and speed sensitivity settings ( I play with a wheel). I prefer to have a car which turns relatively quickly (270 degrees) and reponds rapidly to braking and acceleration (98%). Remember a higher Speed sensitivity will make the car more twitchy on the long straights, but will make the car turn in more easily. The downside here is that it will also be more prone to turn with exiting. If you don't have the rear stabile when you put the power down , you will certainly spin out. Speed sensitivity at a low setting (0% to 10%) is very similar to the Stabilty control assist switched on. Both make the car less nervous and just that bit more stabile in braking and acceleration.
Tuning
To get the most out of racing S2U and in my opinion the fun out of S2U, some tuning is essential. I have a few tips that I have learned over the past year. These are just general observations that I have picked up and not a comprehensive tuning giude. Even with or without assists and a well setup gameplay setting, most cars will require a bit of tweaking to get the best handling and speed out of them. The following changes can be done to the stock tunes:
Caster
Most cars can do with a bit more. Two to four clicks to the right makes them more stabile on straights, but can make it harder to turn
Toe
Stock tunes have the rear toed out. Rear toe out is an exception on any car, so I always toe the rear in a bit. Toeing front and rear a bit in, will add to staight line stabilty and more manageable cornering. A rule of thumb here is to toe front between 16 to 18 and rear 18 to 20. Play around and get a balance of stability in handling. Too much however will result in tyrescrub and less max speed (especially the D and C class cars...they need less toe).
Tyre pressure
Most of the time the pressure is too high both front and rear. Lower them but try to keep the balance eg front 50 / rear 60.....drop front to 45 and rear to 55 ( increments of 5 used here as an example).
Camber
Camber is a ' feel at the seat' setting and a much personal one. I find that most cars have too much camber in stock. I have used the telemetry screen extensively and would say that in 95% of tunes there is too much camber. Remember that by sliding the adjustment to the
LEFT ie the negative (-) side you add camber. So my advice is to play around with less camber if in doubt....sliding the adjustment to the
RIGHT will give you less camber. Again try to keep the balance between front and rear the same. I do not use camber to fix understeer/ oversteer. Use the ARB's. springs and dampers for that. Camber adjustment is to get the contact patch flat...and this can be dailed in realitively easy with the telemetry screen.
Anti roll bars and Springs
Most of the time the front ARB's are spot on in the stock tunes. Add rear ARB when you find the car dipping too much ( which is most common). Be carefull of too much rear ARB in this game. You will find the back end unloading very quickly and slipping away without warning. If that should happen use less rear ARB and add a bit of rear spring or stiffer rear damping. It will eliviate the excessive roll.
Most stock tunes have too little spring and damping. They roll a lot and the weight is transfered too slowly from left to right and back to front. FWD cars are not too bad but all other drivetrains can do with front spring of 2/3 and rear 1/2. You do not need a lot of spring in this game!
Dampers are a different evil though. For AWD keep front and rear in balance ( usually the same amount of damping front and rear). RWD cars benefit from more damping at the rear ( for a bit more understeer coming out of corners). My experience is not to have too much of a difference in the overall damping from front to rear. If your front slow bump/ rebound is 3/5 try to keep rear more or less the same. I will change rear a bit stiffer if oversteer exiting is a problem. Remember a bit more front SLOW BUMP can cure a lot of handling problems with powerful rear wheel cars (ZO6).
Ride Height
Drop as low as possible. Remember front higher keeps the weight at the back longer so traction increases. I only use this on the Gumpert though because of the huge amount of torgue at the rear. It just slows down the unloading of the rear a bit.
Aero bits
Max them out front and rear on anything from B-class up. Most of the time it works but obviously on the long tracks when you need a bit more speed you need less. Good luck on the long sweepers though
Brakes
Most of my cars run on a brake balance of 55% rear. It gives you just enough oversteer on corner entry to counteract the in game understeer tendency. Brake pressure I try to keep at a setting of 10 (some cases a bit higher)
Differential
Lift off oversteer is not a big issue in this game. Deceleration lock is in most cases sufficient. Most of the time I fiddle with acceleration lock. High torque cars spinning out needs less. This is most common with the Works Conversion RWD cars
This guide is based on my observations and I don't claim for it to be a comprehensive guide to S2U. It is more a general help for those who started playing S2U recently, and if it helps only one person to play and enjoy S2U like I do, I will be happy
Happy racing dudes
Zee