Physics thread

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Barely drivable ? It looks ok to me with a couple of instances of oversteer possibly lift off oversteer but anyone who has driven Donington and I have plenty of times will tell you that coming down through Craner curves into the old hairpin really unsettles a car so I can see why he had an issue there . I imagine these little formula cars are real tricky
 
Barely drivable ? It looks ok to me with a couple of instances of oversteer possibly lift off oversteer but anyone who has driven Donington and I have plenty of times will tell you that coming down through Craner curves into the old hairpin really unsettles a car so I can see why he had an issue there . I imagine these little formula cars are real tricky

If they are anything like the skippy and i believe they may be. Tricky sums it up pretty well.
 
I know a good video can make a physics look good as well. Obviously this is not one of them. Looks barely driveable as he is not even pushing the car much

This is the second thread you've quoted this video with the same remarks:odd:. Again...light car+low grip+controller+no abs= challenging drive. Very few console drivers race without ABS because it's very challenging. With practice and the proper adjustments this can be done well.
 
I know a good video can make a physics look good as well. Obviously this is not one of them. Looks barely driveable as he is not even pushing the car much



It's called..... too late on the brakes and probably downshifting at the wrong RPM. If anything, this video shows everything that is RIGHT about the physics. Let's not forget to also mention the cold tires and cold brakes on the first lap.

I'm going to guess that this opinion comes from someone who's sole "sim" experience is with NFS, or Midnight Club. Anyone who has ever driven any proper sims, or better yet real cars, knows that this is an accurate depiction.
 
I can confirm this as well. Punishing the tyres and brakes when cold will mean they will return the punishment to you. Oh, and the same applies on the other side of the spectrum (overheating), so make sure you're smooth. 👍
 
The cars behaviour in the video in question seems pretty accurate. Small formula cars tend to behave like that and have a ton of lift of oversteer. That's why they're used in junior categories to teach people how to drive
 
I've seen many videos where it seems like the car understeers for half a second, and then corrects itself without input from the driver. Am I correct?

I have also read a while back that all cars are set up a bit towards understeer just to make them easier to drive with a pad. Can we change this setting by telling the game we are using a wheel, to get the correct behaviour of the cars?
 
I've seen many videos where it seems like the car understeers for half a second, and then corrects itself without input from the driver. Am I correct?
This can happen if the car slows down, it regains grip.
Driver just needs to lift a little bit.

I have also read a while back that all cars are set up a bit towards understeer just to make them easier to drive with a pad. Can we change this setting by telling the game we are using a wheel, to get the correct behaviour of the cars?
Were did you read this?
 
I've seen many videos where it seems like the car understeers for half a second, and then corrects itself without input from the driver. Am I correct?

I have also read a while back that all cars are set up a bit towards understeer just to make them easier to drive with a pad. Can we change this setting by telling the game we are using a wheel, to get the correct behaviour of the cars?

Try taking the toe and camber values off of the car's tune, that will free it up 👍

EDIT: oops, thought this was a gt6 thread, nevermind :embarrassed:
 
This can happen if the car slows down, it regains grip.
Driver just needs to lift a little bit.


Were did you read this?
I haven't noticed any lift off in the videos I'm referring to. Hard to tell, could be my mistake

I read about the understeering set ups in the video thread.
Most of the setups, in general, are set up to be on the understeer side of things rather than oversteery since it's easier to deal with.

In other words, yes.

It's also mentioned on page 24 in this physics thread. Maybe I'm making a mountain out of a molehill here. I just want the physics to be accurate.
 
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I read what you meant in the video thread.
What I get from it is that someone asks the same question.
And the reply is that in general set ups are leaning towards understeer.

Genral to me means that all race cars (also in real live) tend to understeer.
Which would make sense because it's easier to correct.

Or maybe it's just what I want to be true ;)
 
I haven't noticed any lift off in the videos I'm referring to. Hard to tell, could be my mistake
Could also happen due to other reasons (except lifting off) that slow the car down I guess, but hard to tell without seeing the actual videos. Could also be a bump, puddle, etc. that causes temporary loss of grip, then regains.
 
Don't worry. All cars are setup in a way that they are easy to drive in the beginning. It's not a physics thing, more of a design choise to make the game accessible for beginners. So just change the setup if you don't like it ;)
 
Real cars can and do understeer in real life, they don't oversteer in all situations which is usually what we want when sim racing and how we're used to tuning in other games. You're going to find in PCars, like in most driving sims, that cars will behave like they do in real life. If you go in too hot you can over or understeer, depending on how much you load up the front tires, how much grip they have, and your steering inputs, brake balance etc. You won't get a generic reaction like you might in other games with simpler physics. This will confuse some people thinking that the physics are inconsistent, which is impossible of course, the physics are always the same, it's your own inputs that are causing your issues. You're also going to find that different corners induce different behaviours. At Laguna Seca for example, you have 3 types of corners. Cambered, flat and over a rise. The same car will do different things at each corner, so it's up to you to tune the car and find a balance in your driving inputs to get it to do what you want at each corner.

Basically, instead of looking at game quirks to determine your issues, try to know what would happen with a real car in that situation and work from that standpoint when tuning.
 
Yeah, of course I know that different cars react different in different corners with different input from the driver. My concern is/was if the cars in the game are set up to understeer just to be easy to drive. A thing that obviously can be corrected by changing the set up by myself, so it shouldn't be a biggie.
 
I know a good video can make a physics look good as well. Obviously this is not one of them. Looks barely driveable as he is not even pushing the car much

He's braking too late, needs to learn the car a little more, needs to brake in a straight line before the corner.

And before you ask... no, I'm not a wizard. He says it himself in the actual video.

I'm not prejudging Project Cars by any means but everything I saw in that video seemed to be exactly as the driver described it.
 
Just drove the Zakspeed Ford Capri using the H-shifter of my G27 and I have a question about driving those cars. When downshifting without blipping the throttle, isn't the rear supposed to become very instable? Because in Project CARS the rear stays very steady and breaking for a corner isn't an issue at all.
I'm asking because I experienced quite the opposite while driving cars with a manual gearbox in R3E.
 
^ You can try e.g. loosening up the diff and changing the brake balance. The default setups are generally meant to be on the safe side.

That could be the reason. Just wanted to do a little fun race so I simply used the stock setup.
 
^ You can try e.g. loosening up the diff and changing the brake balance. The default setups are generally meant to be on the safe side.

Indeed. Often tyre pressures are a bit on the low side as well. This creates more stability but also understeer. OEM pressures often are up to 0.2 or 0.3 bar higher than the pressures used in-game by default.

Personally I found it quite fun to dig out the correct tyre pressures from the wild wild web as you put it in another post. It's just fun to be able to look up setups from real world drivers of these cars and being able to apply them to the game and see how it feels. :)

But yeah, there are a lot of small changes to the car setup by default to make the cars safer or less twitchy (mainly for pad users who'd struggle otherwise). So with a wheel you're definitely going to benefit to try fiddling with settings a bit. :)
 
Maybe it's better to put my question here:

After a few tests With BMW E30, SLS GT3 and FA, I feel more comfortable without any aids, with the 'real' setting I can't understand enough the braking physics and some weight transfer. Innitialy I was a little shocked about the FA sensations, but without aids, it feel more similar to others sims to me.

After this, I got a question: are those aids in 'real' mode an individual recreation of those aids, or they are some generic assistance?
 
Just drove the Zakspeed Ford Capri using the H-shifter of my G27 and I have a question about driving those cars. When downshifting without blipping the throttle, isn't the rear supposed to become very instable? Because in Project CARS the rear stays very steady and breaking for a corner isn't an issue at all.
I'm asking because I experienced quite the opposite while driving cars with a manual gearbox in R3E.
Do you have automatic clutch on? Damage? Stock tune? Have you put up any laptimes in a TT to see if you're on the edge? Try Oschersleben, there are a few good times on that track for the Zakspeed.

This video does indeed showcase a severe lack of realism, most evident at 2:00.

...... Pfft, like England would have good weather.
...... Simcade!!
You had me there. I FF'd the video to 2 mins..then 2:20...then 2:40...then read the spoilers..:ouch::sly:
 
Do you have automatic clutch on? Damage? Stock tune? Have you put up any laptimes in a TT to see if you're on the edge? Try Oschersleben, there are a few good times on that track for the Zakspeed.

No automatic clutch, full damage and stock setup.
Will try the car again later and maybe adjust the setup a little bit as DrJustice suggested.
 
Tire wear. Yesterday i was all over the place after about 10 laps (3 hour endurance race scaled down to 1 hour = 33%), and the AI catch up to me in no time.

- Might have been asked before; is tire wear scaled? So if you scale down an endurance race, tire wear goes at a faster rate, or is it realistic and tire wear stays the same at all times?

- Does tire wear affect the AI equally as it does to you? I read the AI use a simplified tire model so maybe they have an advantage?
 
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