Physics thread

  • Thread starter LVracerGT
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Don't forget to activate "Shared Memory" under Options->Gameplay->Hardware. Only then PCars will push out the needed telemetry Data to these apps.
And delete your entire profile every time you load a replay :scared:
Better keep that setting off for now ;)
 
The Telemetry Screen shows you always the correct tire temperature. Tire Wear as a number is not visible in the HUD atm, but if you play on PC, there are some very good external telemetry apps available that will give you a number: http://www.projectcarsgame.com/apps.html

Don't forget to activate "Shared Memory" under Options->Gameplay->Hardware. Only then PCars will push out the needed telemetry Data to these apps.

I see 3 telemetry tools for the PC, but one (pCars profiler) has no link, one is hosted on a website that hasn't been updated since before the game gaunch, and one that doesn't look like it has numbers for tyre wear :(

pCars profiler took my fancy but there is no link to a download. :(
 
And delete your entire profile every time you load a replay :scared:
Better keep that setting off for now ;)

What?? Never had an issue with that.

EDIT: Can't test it out right now, because i'm in China atm and don't have access to all my PCars related stuff.
 
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Here is the current link to the PCars Profiler from Tom Shane: http://www.tomshane.cz/profiler/

ooh, great nice one.

@mister dog - I've only done one race in career and realised how rusty I am, so I've been mostly free practising and trying to get my FFB better (on an old DF Pro wheel). So I'll keep an eye on my profile, but don't mind if I lose it at the moment.

I've just signed up to the pcars forum and downloaded these Jack Spade FFB tweaker files to give them a shot.
 
What?? Never had an issue with that.

EDIT: Can't test it out right now, because i'm in China atm and don't have access to all my PCars related stuff.
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sh...RNING-Backup-your-Profiles-immediately!/page2
ooh, great nice one.

@mister dog - I've only done one race in career and realised how rusty I am, so I've been mostly free practising and trying to get my FFB better (on an old DF Pro wheel). So I'll keep an eye on my profile, but don't mind if I lose it at the moment.

I've just signed up to the pcars forum and downloaded these Jack Spade FFB tweaker files to give them a shot.
Profile bug only happens on PC when you load a replay and have 'shared memory' enabled in the FX settings. So as long as you watch out for this it's not supposed to happen.

Let us know how you like the Spade files; i heard in some cases they make the wheel light and there's less feedback, so i'm not going to risk screwing up the standard settings as they work great on my CSR.
 
In the Formula Rookie car, if I mash the throttle coming out a corner, the rear end doesn't kick out. Should it be that way? I would expect this car to have enough power to lose grip in that situation.

I was trying to do the things I saw in this Skip Barber video

Goto 15:00

 
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In the Formula Rookie car, if I mash the throttle coming out a corner, the rear end doesn't kick out. Should it be that way? I would expect this car to have enough power to lose grip in that situation.

I was trying to do the things I saw in this Skip Barber video

Goto 15:00



Fiddle with the setup. The stock setup is likely to be safe enough that you're going to have a real hard time getting power oversteer.

I suggest starting by doing one of the following at a time:
-increase your rear tyre pressure
-stiffen your rear anti-roll bar
-raise your rear ride height/lower your front ride height
-remove rear camber

These will all loosen the car at the back to some degree, and you'll likely be able to get it moving how you want it.

To be honest, the Skip Barber car in iRacing is much the same. Stock it's quite hard to get it moving around, it's too safe. You have to modify some of the settings if you want to be able to move it around on the edge of grip.

Still, if you're trying to go fast you don't actually want to lose grip on corner exit. That's the best thing about rear engined cars, the mad grip that you get under power.
 
In the Formula Rookie car, if I mash the throttle coming out a corner, the rear end doesn't kick out. Should it be that way? I would expect this car to have enough power to lose grip in that situation.

I was trying to do the things I saw in this Skip Barber video

Goto 15:00



Frookie is more like a Formula Ford while the skippy is more like a VW beetle without fenders. To make it more Tailhappy you could stiffen up the rear, put Hard Tires on, increase Tire Pressure...dunno if it has an ARB, but stiffen this up will make the car tailhappy too. The default setup really is safe and understeery for pad users.
 
In the Formula Rookie car, if I mash the throttle coming out a corner, the rear end doesn't kick out. Should it be that way? I would expect this car to have enough power to lose grip in that situation.

I was trying to do the things I saw in this Skip Barber video
We have a young gentleman on GTP that races similar cars by the name of @Spurgy 777. Let's ask him. Oh wait, I just did:sly:

http://www.benspurgeracing.com/
 
Let us know how you like the Spade files; i heard in some cases they make the wheel light and there's less feedback, so i'm not going to risk screwing up the standard settings as they work great on my CSR.

I setup the spade files, which by the way are easy to uninstall and don't interfere with the existing FFB settings they just over-ride them.

I tried two of the cars I have already done some laps on around Donington National, which I am very familiar with.

Focus RS. When I tried this the other day the FFB was horrible, default and it was difficult to drive. With the Spade files it was really, really, horrible, practically un-driveable.

Formula Rookie: I felt there was less feedback for me again although it did provide more control.

So I deactivated the Spade files just by renaming the folder they come in.

Instead I basically one at a time modified the Car Setup FFB parameters one by one and tested each time afterwards to get an idea of how each parameter changed the feel.

By doing that I think I now have an idea of how to change things to my preference. I certainly managed to get the Focus and F-rookie to my liking.

[edit] This post about FFB has been the most useful for me - especially the Spindle parameters
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?23124-FFB-Tuning-(my-thoughts-)

Yet another 1/2 hour session turned into 4 hours :)

Here is the current link to the PCars Profiler from Tom Shane: http://www.tomshane.cz/profiler/

Thanks for this, it is completely brilliant. Had it running on my 2nd screen. Crashed a number of times while glancing at tyre wear etc...

Afterwards I spent ages analysing my laps, and have found it very informative. I'm going to have to give the guy a well deserved donation!
 
In the Formula Rookie car, if I mash the throttle coming out a corner, the rear end doesn't kick out. Should it be that way? I would expect this car to have enough power to lose grip in that situation.

I was trying to do the things I saw in this Skip Barber video

Goto 15:00


Great video which explains the car balance perfectly :bowdown: 👍
If I mash the throttle coming out a corner, the rear end doesn't kick out
When you smash the throttle out of a corner did your front tires start to lose grip?
If the answer is yes then you have power understeer.
In this case you should add more grip in front,and this will make you faster.
If adding grip to the front tires is not possible then you should reduce the rear end grip,but beware reduce the rear end grip too much and this will make you slow.
 
In the Formula Rookie car, if I mash the throttle coming out a corner, the rear end doesn't kick out. Should it be that way? I would expect this car to have enough power to lose grip in that situation.

I was trying to do the things I saw in this Skip Barber video

Goto 15:00



Do you have traction control and stability control turned off?
 
In the Formula Rookie car, if I mash the throttle coming out a corner, the rear end doesn't kick out. Should it be that way? I would expect this car to have enough power to lose grip in that situation.

The FRookie is based off of the FFord, and the FFord tends to understeer under throttle, plus the FRookie has slicks instead of treaded tyres, which probably explains why I found it to be more stable and grippy than the FFord. That and @blowfishrulez said the car has a safe, understeery setup on, so overall I would say the handling is quite accurate. :D

For anyone interested in a time comparison, I did a 1.38/9 in the FRookie around Donington GP, and a 1.42.4 in the FFord last weekend. :)
 
The FRookie is based off of the FFord, and the FFord tends to understeer under throttle, plus the FRookie has slicks instead of treaded tyres, which probably explains why I found it to be more stable and grippy than the FFord. That and @blowfishrulez said the car has a safe, understeery setup on, so overall I would say the handling is quite accurate. :D

For anyone interested in a time comparison, I did a 1.38/9 in the FRookie around Donington GP, and a 1.42.4 in the FFord last weekend. :)

Thanks for the replies.

@Brainhulk, I have all assists turned off except ABS

@super_gt, I'll try again and see if I have oversteer.

The thing is I want a game that is as realistic as possible but I've never driven any of these cars in real life. A lot of people are calling this game "simcade" so I just did a few tests. I don't know why it's so hard to come up with a simple set of tests to determine how much of a sim a game really is.

I think most people who complain that it's simcade feel that the cars have too much grip and are too easy to control in terms of throttle. They have gotten used to the challenge involved in controlling cars in other games. Now I'm questioning if games like GT were overdoing it a bit.

I'll play some more tonight.
 
The thing is I want a game that is as realistic as possible but I've never driven any of these cars in real life. A lot of people are calling this game "simcade" so I just did a few tests. I don't know why it's so hard to come up with a simple set of tests to determine how much of a sim a game really is.
Here is one simple torque steer test that you can do:


This test shows that torque steer is not simulated properly in GT6.
The rear end remain completely calm which means that it is simcade.

This test is made in GT6 but you can make the same test in Project CARS.
Select track with long flat straight and then make a standing start.

It should look similar to this:

 
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@mr_serious thanks for being my guinea pig ;)
Won't bother with it then. Another question; what is the easiest way to monitor FFB clipping in PCARS?

Do however check out that profiler (you have the PC version right?). I just can't express how brilliant it is. When free practising now, I just turn it on and let it record. Then when I am done I'll take a look. It records every little detail of every lap. You can easily determine fuel use, most effective line, brake points.

I've just recorded 17 laps in the Frookie at donington national, after a bottle of wine. Only two were valid! :lol: although one of them was the fastest time I have managed at that car / track combo.

As for clipping, I don't even have a car license. The only steering wheel I have used in 30 years is karting a decade ago and casual gaming. I'm not sure I could tell if my wheel was clipping or not (I understand the concept of clipping, in terms of graphs, sound waves etc.. I'm just not sure how it feels on a DFP)

Does your wheel come with any config software? My guess is that is where you might be able to get a log/visual rep of clipping. I haven't noticed anything in pcars itself.
 
Do however check out that profiler (you have the PC version right?). I just can't express how brilliant it is. When free practising now, I just turn it on and let it record. Then when I am done I'll take a look. It records every little detail of every lap. You can easily determine fuel use, most effective line, brake points.

I've just recorded 17 laps in the Frookie at donington national, after a bottle of wine. Only two were valid! :lol: although one of them was the fastest time I have managed at that car / track combo.

As for clipping, I don't even have a car license. The only steering wheel I have used in 30 years is karting a decade ago and casual gaming. I'm not sure I could tell if my wheel was clipping or not (I understand the concept of clipping, in terms of graphs, sound waves etc.. I'm just not sure how it feels on a DFP)

Does your wheel come with any config software? My guess is that is where you might be able to get a log/visual rep of clipping. I haven't noticed anything in pcars itself.
Yup PC, i'll check out the app if i can must come in handy.

Regarding clipping, mostly that occurs in fast corners. You are turning the wheel and all of a sudden it starts feeling heavy like the belt just stopped functioning correctly and is only giving resistance. In AC you could easily check this with the ingame pedal app that shows you how far you press clutch/brake/throttle and on the right there was an extra bar that went red each time you started clipping. For PCARS i haven't found out yet how to monitor it, as i was too busy playing :D
 
I setup the spade files, which by the way are easy to uninstall and don't interfere with the existing FFB settings they just over-ride them.

I tried two of the cars I have already done some laps on around Donington National, which I am very familiar with.

Focus RS. When I tried this the other day the FFB was horrible, default and it was difficult to drive. With the Spade files it was really, really, horrible, practically un-driveable.

Formula Rookie: I felt there was less feedback for me again although it did provide more control.

So I deactivated the Spade files just by renaming the folder they come in.

Instead I basically one at a time modified the Car Setup FFB parameters one by one and tested each time afterwards to get an idea of how each parameter changed the feel.

By doing that I think I now have an idea of how to change things to my preference. I certainly managed to get the Focus and F-rookie to my liking.

[edit] This post about FFB has been the most useful for me - especially the Spindle parameters
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?23124-FFB-Tuning-(my-thoughts-)

Yet another 1/2 hour session turned into 4 hours :)



Thanks for this, it is completely brilliant. Had it running on my 2nd screen. Crashed a number of times while glancing at tyre wear etc...

Afterwards I spent ages analysing my laps, and have found it very informative. I'm going to have to give the guy a well deserved donation!
Curious that some people are reporting that the Jake Spade FFB tweaks are brilliant and others are reporting similar to you. I have to give them a spin and see what happens.

Thanks for this, it is completely brilliant. Had it running on my 2nd screen. Crashed a number of times while glancing at tyre wear etc...

Afterwards I spent ages analysing my laps, and have found it very informative. I'm going to have to give the guy a well deserved donation!
Are you saying that this app tells you what the tire wear level is?:scared:

The FRookie is based off of the FFord, and the FFord tends to understeer under throttle, plus the FRookie has slicks instead of treaded tyres, which probably explains why I found it to be more stable and grippy than the FFord. That and @blowfishrulez said the car has a safe, understeery setup on, so overall I would say the handling is quite accurate. :D

For anyone interested in a time comparison, I did a 1.38/9 in the FRookie around Donington GP, and a 1.42.4 in the FFord last weekend. :)
I wonder if you can mess with the weather conditions to get a colder track and that might help equalize the lap times. Do you think it'll be helpful for your real life racing to drive the car in game?

@mr_serious thanks for being my guinea pig ;)
Won't bother with it then. Another question; what is the easiest way to monitor FFB clipping in PCARS?
Dude!!:sly:
 
Curious that some people are reporting that the Jake Spade FFB tweaks are brilliant and others are reporting similar to you. I have to give them a spin and see what happens.

I just supposed different wheels are constructed differently and have different levels of force & subtlety. Mine is a tired Logitech Driving Force Pro.

Are you saying that this app tells you what the tire wear level is?:scared:

Yes! As well as much more. I

As a test to see if it impacted performance while driving I just created a layout of useful panels & indicators for a live race, like the fuel management window (tells you how much you have left, how much you have used and the projected number of laps remaining), a large lap timing window, vehicle damage status, Tyre temps, tyre wear, and flag status.

profiler-screen.jpg

[edit] this screen shot is not during a live race, but is from recorded data, so session time remaining & the fuel management aren't showing all the data they do during a session.

Although I have to switch win 7 into basic mode, it didn't seem to impact performance in a 20 car wet race just now.

I am going to have to switch my monitors around a bit now to make the 2nd one easier to see while I am using the TV for the game. :)
 
So, the physics are some of the best I've ever experienced. They are about as good as iracing in my humble opinion. The cars are predictible and handle great! The Oreca P2 car is just amazing! For those who were saying the physics were too hard or unrealistic, it's because you are driving the car like you would in a video game. Drive it like you would drive an actual car.
 
I did a lot of competitive racing on Forza Motorsport 4 (links in signature) and found that the online/offline physics were pretty much the same; I was able to produce identical laptimes with each.
For me it was like night and day. The online I'm talking about was where I set up custom races with me against Ai only, as opposed to offline sp, barely did any mp at all.
 
Here is one simple torque steer test that you can do:


This test shows that torque steer is not simulated properly in GT6.
The rear end remain completely calm which means that it is simcade.

This test is made in GT6 but you can make the same test in Project CARS.
Select track with long flat straight and then make a standing start.

It should look similar to this:




Ummm, I could be wrong, but torque steer mostly applies to front wheel drive cars and neither of those are front wheel drive. I believe what you're seeing in the second video is wheel spin, not torque steer. Both GT6 and pCars models torque steer in FWD cars, the later does it a little better than the former but both definitely do it.
 
Ummm, I could be wrong, but torque steer mostly applies to front wheel drive cars and neither of those are front wheel drive. I believe what you're seeing in the second video is wheel spin, not torque steer. Both GT6 and pCars models torque steer in FWD cars, the later does it a little better than the former but both definitely do it.
Torque steer is most commonly refered to in FWD cars, but it certainly can and is present in RWD cars. From a standing start the difference in torque vs the available tractive force for each of the rear tyres in RWD cars (or front tyres in FWD cars) can cause the car to steer away from straight under acceleration from a standing start (which is what you can see being corrected in the second video).

GT6 doesn't model it at all for RWD cars and barely models it for FWD cars.

All GT6 does for RWD cars is apply an equal level of wheelspin to each rear tyres so you always take off in a straight line, and that's without the issues that GT6 has with modelling correctly how tyres 'hook up' when grip is actually achieved.
 
Torque steer is most commonly refered to in FWD cars, but it certainly can and is present in RWD cars. From a standing start the difference in torque vs the available tractive force for each of the rear tyres in RWD cars (or front tyres in FWD cars) can cause the car to steer away from straight under acceleration from a standing start (which is what you can see being corrected in the second video).

GT6 doesn't model it at all for RWD cars and barely models it for FWD cars.

All GT6 does for RWD cars is apply an equal level of wheelspin to each rear tyres so you always take off in a straight line, and that's without the issues that GT6 has with modelling correctly how tyres 'hook up' when grip is actually achieved.


Like I said, I could be wrong (and I usually am). :sly:
 
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