Physics thread

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Torque steer is most commonly refered to in FWD cars, but it certainly can and is present in RWD cars. From a standing start the difference in torque vs the available tractive force for each of the rear tyres in RWD cars (or front tyres in FWD cars) can cause the car to steer away from straight under acceleration from a standing start (which is what you can see being corrected in the second video).

GT6 doesn't model it at all for RWD cars and barely models it for FWD cars.

All GT6 does for RWD cars is apply an equal level of wheelspin to each rear tyres so you always take off in a straight line, and that's without the issues that GT6 has with modelling correctly how tyres 'hook up' when grip is actually achieved.
Torque steer is present to an extent in RWD cars on real world tracks in GT6 which is an improvement over GT5.
 
Like I said, I could be wrong (and I usually am). :sly:
No problem. every day should be a learning day. :D

Torque steer is present to an extent in RWD cars on real world tracks in GT6 which is an improvement over GT5.
Mainly down to the track surface modeling crowns and camber rather than torque/tractive force differences within the car however. Its a subtle difference but one for me still suggest that its not modeled in the key place it should be (the car and at each tyre).
 
Quick questions. It's the mass of the driver modeled in Pcars? It would be interesting to know, especially with the formula cars.

I'd also like to know if fuel and other fluids are modeled to behave correctly under racing/driving conditions?

If anyone knows please enlighten.
 
In PCars clipping is indicated when the FFB line in the telemetry hud goes flat at the top of its window there.
so what's that white line for down the bottom? i thought that was the clipping indicator because if it ever appears the wheel feels nasty. i've never had the yellow line hit the top.
 
Quick questions. It's the mass of the driver modeled in Pcars? It would be interesting to know, especially with the formula cars.

I'd also like to know if fuel and other fluids are modeled to behave correctly under racing/driving conditions?

If anyone knows please enlighten.

I can't give an official answer, but in regards to the fuel, I can confirm that I feel a difference based on the fuel load. The cars that I have driven have handled very differently when running full fuel vs/ half fuel load. You are able to set different starting fuel levels for race and qualifying.

My experience with running the car in qualifying "trim" with only 10 - 15 liters of fuel on board is that the car feels very different. The overall setups are the same on the car, but with only 10 liters that car does feel "lighter". It's easier to get the rear to jump out, and the steering feel is significantly different (this one is hard to put into words).

I don't know about the driver weight or other fluids, but I wouldn't expect other fluids to make much difference. They are generally small amounts and (should) remain at constant volumes.

Hope that helps.
 
@F1Racer68 thanks for your reply. I was thinking more about the fuel moving with acceleration, deceleration & turning. I understand race cars now have foam in the fuel tank to aid under collision and it also stops the fuel sloshing around.
 
@F1Racer68 thanks for your reply. I was thinking more about the fuel moving with acceleration, deceleration & turning. I understand race cars now have foam in the fuel tank to aid under collision and it also stops the fuel sloshing around.

Yeah, so far I have only driven the "modern" GT cars. I haven't tried any of the older cars yet. While it could be entirely possible that they did include that, I am guessing they probably didn't go to quite that level (but fingers crossed that I am wrong :) )
 
For anyone with oversteer issues coming out of slow corners with the Mercedes-Benz 190E DTM car, change the following or at least keep the following ratio...

Tyre Pressure
Front: 1.8 Bar
Rear: 2.0 Bar

This should stabilize the car A LOT. I tried it at Brands Hatch and going on the power at corner exit at Brands Hatch's Druids hairpin was just a mess. I couldn't accelerate out if it.
When I changed the tyre pressure to the above the car was very stable as you'd see on old footage. The car accelerated nicely and controllably out of the corners.
An extra benefit was also that the car didn't swing out its rear and burn its tyres at the start of the race, but it would accelerate normally.


As an extra footnote. Mercedes-Benz's 190E EVO II has the following recommended tyre pressures. But for some reason SMS capped it at 2.0 bar max.

W201TyrePressures.jpg
 
Has anyone experienced flat spots? I remember reading it was possible with the the seta modelling but haven't seen/felt it yet.
 
In career, with the Ginetta junior Silverstone turns to ice after three drops of rain.
Even on wet tyres.

I have driven in the rain in free practice and I don't recall it being that bad.
Does anyone know if it has something to de with the track, Theginetta in particular or being in career?
 
In career, with the Ginetta junior Silverstone turns to ice after three drops of rain.
Even on wet tyres.

I have driven in the rain in free practice and I don't recall it being that bad.
Does anyone know if it has something to de with the track, Theginetta in particular or being in career?

Same thing happened to me with another car, I changed to wets during a pit stop (the pit stop menu is a little bit graphically confusing) and it was still ice. Then I realized I had only changed ONLY the front tires to wet. Once I changed all four tires......all was well with heavy rain on the circuit. Car handled very well.....like I would expect it to.....👍
 
Same thing happened to me with another car, I changed to wets during a pit stop (the pit stop menu is a little bit graphically confusing) and it was still ice. Then I realized I had only changed ONLY the front tires to wet. Once I changed all four tires......all was well with heavy rain on the circuit. Car handled very well.....like I would expect it to.....👍
Thanks,
I need to take a look at that
 
Same thing happened to me with another car, I changed to wets during a pit stop (the pit stop menu is a little bit graphically confusing) and it was still ice. Then I realized I had only changed ONLY the front tires to wet. Once I changed all four tires......all was well with heavy rain on the circuit. Car handled very well.....like I would expect it to.....👍
that's exactly what I did in the Clio Cup
 
What you have tgere is for the normal roaduse of the E190.
I think having 2 bar for race use is about right.

Indeed. Might even need to go lower, but the tyre pressure ratio is what's most important here. The street tyre pressures simply give a nice indication of that ratio.
In this case it is a bit counter intuitive as you'd think a lower rear pressure would reduce oversteer (as used by default), instead it's a lower front. That with a FR layout.
 
karts physic is nowhere near the real one. Never raced other cars so i don't judge.
I have raced karts and I think the 125 shifter is the best kart I've driven on any game and as close to the real thing as I've seen in any game. It needs to be pushed hard just like any racing kart, instantaneously on and off throttle to balance the chassis, to bring out the best in it. I wasn't looking forward to the karts at all, and waited days to try them because I'd heard that they hadn't quite got the chassis flex right. I was very pleasantly surprised at how well they handled when I really pushed.
 
I have raced karts and I think the 125 shifter is the best kart I've driven on any game and as close to the real thing as I've seen in any game. It needs to be pushed hard just like any racing kart, instantaneously on and off throttle to balance the chassis, to bring out the best in it. I wasn't looking forward to the karts at all, and waited days to try them because I'd heard that they hadn't quite got the chassis flex right. I was very pleasantly surprised at how well they handled when I really pushed.
i raced them too, and pn ps4 with the wheel is nowhere near reality. i made two laps and quit immediatly skipping to tier 6. morever default wheel setting is tragic with karts.
 
paul, I assume there is really something wrong with your T300. I m not the biggest fan of the Karts, but I can whoop them all day around tracks that aint Glencairn without a problem. They are not perfect (chassis flex, like Johnny mentioned), but after 10-20 laps you can easily get used to them.
 
Karts are the best in any game by far. Of course you wont get an realitic result because of wheel degree and the power and ways for the pedals are waaaaay off. But thats a hardware problem you wont get a wheel that is so direct like a wheel in a kart and pedals with that short ways etc. With a high ffb setting and lowest steeting degree possible i can at least drive them like i do in reallife.

Its Cars are closer to reallife but the karts are by miles the most realistic handling karts on all sims
 
I finally had an epiphany last night. Despite having nothing but trouble on my pad with the A45, I took out the Ruf RGT8 on Cadwell park. Having never been on it, the 991 flowed so well, especially once the tyres were warm. Having been so impressed by the physics I took the E92 M3 out for a race on Donny. In the rain to boot. I was holding my own in 5th, until I messed up and ended up in last. Just like everyone else I've seen on here, finishing last doesn't hurt so much when you enjoy yourself.

No more will racing be a means to an end and through patience I've finally seen the light.
 
VXR
I finally had an epiphany last night. Despite having nothing but trouble on my pad with the A45, I took out the Ruf RGT8 on Cadwell park. Having never been on it, the 991 flowed so well, especially once the tyres were warm. Having been so impressed by the physics I took the E92 M3 out for a race on Donny. In the rain to boot. I was holding my own in 5th, until I messed up and ended up in last. Just like everyone else I've seen on here, finishing last doesn't hurt so much when you enjoy yourself.

No more will racing be a means to an end and through patience I've finally seen the light.
Had a similar thing happen last night. Donington GP round of the G40 Jnr championship. Couldn't get heat into the tyres in the rain, when off (a lot) kept the wets on as a gamble at the pit stop as it was drying and knew that would force some heat into them

Would it be too much heat? As it turned out the rain reduced enough for the tyres to warm but not go over, stopped for the last two laps (it was a 9 lap race) and I managed to get from last to 7th at the line.

Enjoyed it a stupid amount, never has a 7th place finish in a racing game been so worth it. With nothing to 'chase' in terms of content to open up or money to win its just racing for the race.
 
I don't know if it has been talked about yet (probably) but as far as I know pCARS is the first game *on console* to handle gearing effect in open wheel. (I don't know if it's exactly called like this in English, but I mean when 2 tyres touch each other, lifting one of the cars in the air).
I guess it already exists in some PC sims though.

As for the kart, I don't have large experience IRL but the handling feels quite accurate to me with heavy FFB settings, far more than GT6 for instance.
 
VXR
I finally had an epiphany last night. Despite having nothing but trouble on my pad with the A45, I took out the Ruf RGT8 on Cadwell park.
Finally, relief knowing that I'm not the only one finding the A45 a nightmare to control with a pad! I thought I was just being delusional.
 
Finally, relief knowing that I'm not the only one finding the A45 a nightmare to control with a pad! I thought I was just being delusional.

Maybe you can try some OEM tyre pressures...? See if that stabilizes the car as it did for the 190E as I tested above.
Here's the Mercedes-Benz A45 AMG tanklid sticker.

a45amg-tankklappe-innen-1655414080488263810.JPG



Edit:
Just tested the above pressures of 2.9 bar (F) and 2.3 bar (R) at Donnington. Drives like a charm here. :)
 
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