Yup, you should distrust it so much as nobody today plays games, only nerds do that. Certainly not those who can race in real life.
Nope you should trust every sim racing elitist right away in comparison, for they know how to compare sim racing games.
I'll still take superlative claims with a grain of salt unless we know what other titles a professional has played, ever since Gran Turismo 4 was lauded by some professionals.
A claim like "most realistic sim ever" is a matter of sim vs sim. Which is what I meant by superlative claims.
Yup and you should deride people to be more legitimate.
The worse for me isn't it's car per car, but also track per track.
For instance I like the karts to feel close to reality so I put very heavy FFB, but not on GT3 or protos. You can create a setup on main menu and then save it for all tracks, but yeah you'll have to do it for each car.
It shouldn't be that annoying if you focus on cars one by one though either career mode or online racing with the same car. Otherwise...
Maybe they'll add it in a patch, would make sense.
That's kind of my point, be it a baker talking about rFactor or a driver about pCARS, I don't take for granted such declarations from a guy playing 2h with a pad and without elaborating a bit more, that's all.Anyway, Wolfe has mode a valid point. If you don't know the sim racing background of someone (professional or not), than if that person comparitive statements to previous played titles litterally has no real value.
Anyway, no problem now.You're right. I shouldn't have and I am probably just taking it out on the wrong guy. Sorry, David.
I have the same problem with the same Wheel ,pedals and shifter but on the PC. The cars I had problems with is the zakspeed, BMW 320 and the BMW procar. And the most problematik is the 4 th gear.LogiForce.....HELP!.....I see you have been very helpful and professional in the GTplanet forum for years, I am now sincerely seeking for your advice about my previous question to this thread but seems no one has replied me anything yet....
Here is the problem....I'm on PS4, using T300 GTE, T3PA-Pro, TH8A, and I'm so used to turning off the auto-clutch in the game and so obsessed with the heel-toe fun when driving.....
I have really really great fun on driving the Group4 BMW M1 Procar and Group5 (1 BMW & 1 Ford), but here comes the problem, whenever I use the clutch to shift 3th gear to 4th gear, it has about 50% chance that it could fail to shift up and just left in N-gear, and has no problem whatsoever on 1,2,3,5 gears........Up to now, I only discover these 3 cars have such shifting problem.
My question is...is it ONLY me or what? Have this been discussed before? And if yes, what problem is that? Is that again in the real world these cars are harder to shift from 3th to 4th gear???
Thank you for you advice as always!
Thanks for the info bro...now at least I know I'm not the only one...as I tried many ways to resolve this problem, eg. By pass the DIN cable and used a separated USB from TH8A connected to pS4 but still no luck ....I have the same problem with the same Wheel ,pedals and shifter but on the PC. The cars I had problems with is the zakspeed, BMW 320 and the BMW procar. And the most problematik is the 4 th gear.
LogiForce.....HELP!.....I see you have been very helpful and professional in the GTplanet forum for years, I am now sincerely seeking for your advice about my previous question to this thread but seems no one has replied me anything yet....
Here is the problem....I'm on PS4, using T300 GTE, T3PA-Pro, TH8A, and I'm so used to turning off the auto-clutch in the game and so obsessed with the heel-toe fun when driving.....
I have really really great fun on driving the Group4 BMW M1 Procar and Group5 (1 BMW & 1 Ford), but here comes the problem, whenever I use the clutch to shift 3th gear to 4th gear, it has about 50% chance that it could fail to shift up and just left in N-gear, and has no problem whatsoever on 1,2,3,5 gears........Up to now, I only discover these 3 cars have such shifting problem.
My question is...is it ONLY me or what? Have this been discussed before? And if yes, what problem is that? Is that again in the real world these cars are harder to shift from 3th to 4th gear???
Thank you for you advice as always!
Thanks for the comment Gufazi...try turning off auto clutch and you will have 50% chance 3-4 shift up failure and left in N gear, especially when you are in high speed cornering and moving uphillIf this helps, I DO use auto clutch (same set-up) and the shifting from 3-4 takes forever; the quick pop from 3 - n - 4 easily takes four times longer than any other gear combination.
Ride heights of 27, 28, 31 and 32 inches? Isn't ride height the distance between the ground and the lowest part of the car?OK I've been playing around with the Grp 5 320 Turbo in an invitational event and noticed that if you reduce the fuel load the rear gets a lot (and I mean a lot) more active under heavy breaking and the tyres are far more likely to lock up.
I had a feeling what may have been occurring, but wanted to check so I took a look at the tyre telemetry with the standard 90kg fuel load, with 120kg, 20kg and with 5kg.
What you will notice is that as fuel load decreases the the ride height at the rear increases quite significantly as follows:
120kgs:27" > 90kg:28" > 20kg:31" > 5kg:32"
And available suspension travel also changes, increasing as fuel load reduces:
120kgs:21" > 90kg:22" > 20kg:25" > 5kg:25"
All of which is a significant change in rear ride height from the default 90kgs being 28" to the 20kg I was using during practice and qualifying being 31". The 3" rise in rear ride height as the result of removing 70kg of fuel from what is already a very light car has a significant change on the braking performance of the car with cold tyres and from a high speed.
Ride heights of 27, 28, 31 and 32 inches? Isn't ride height the distance between the ground and the lowest part of the car?
What you in, a monster truck?
ps. if I've missed something obvious, you'll have to pardon me
Its the suspension height (my bad), so I would imagine its from the top of the suspension turret, the telemetry screen doesn't make it clear.Ride heights of 27, 28, 31 and 32 inches? Isn't ride height the distance between the ground and the lowest part of the car?
What you in, a monster truck?
ps. if I've missed something obvious, you'll have to pardon me
Think you are just missing the decimal point.Its the suspension height (my bad), so I would imagine its from the top of the suspension turret, the telemetry screen doesn't make it clear.
You may also want to tweak the engine brake mapping as well (same tuning screen as the fuel load), as its set to 1 by default and makes the car even more eager to lock the rears under heavy braking. I set it to 3 which does help, but you still need to take care to match engine speed to road speed when braking in the 320 to avoid locking the rears and the tail getting too happy.Great catch, @Scaff! I just started the Historic GT5 Invitational with the BMW. I experienced the same "funny business" under heavy braking. Even with the telemetry on for testing and tuning, I didn't notice the ride height change. Now I have something else to look at for Practice session in Round 2.
Think you are just missing the decimal point.
You can sort of make it out from that picture the dot on the 0 and end of the 2, seems formatting issue. might be easier to see in metric.Quite possible, but that would be SMS missing it rather than me if that's the case:
View attachment 374776
Will take a look tonight, quite agree that 2.8" would make more sense.You can sort of make it out from that picture the dot on the 0 and end of the 2, seems formatting issue. might be easier to see in metric.
So was messing with the clutch in online races with a friend and stalled on the line. Unfortunately I didn't have a button mapped for "start engine" (I thought "auto start on" would restart it) so sat around on the grid for the race to end since it was only 3 laps. Start of the third lap I see my cars creeping (yes, it took that long to get the momentum to move) and I say to my dad who's a mechanic wouldn't it be funny if we could bump start it.
Turn auto clutch off, clutch in, bang it in first, clutch out and a jerk or two later we're up and running!
Yup, we put that bit of realism in as well. It makes a manual gearbox seem more real, even if it's just a little thing. Sometimes if you spin out and the engine stalls, you now have the chance that if you have some rolling momentum eventually that you can bump start it and continue with your race.
Just having that little thing in just makes it all more real, as you can dependent on lady luck some more with it.
I thought the FFB was physics based? Well, how can it be if you can change the settings so wildly?
Just like you can adjust your TV settings to make the picture better (or worse), you can adjust the FFB settings to make the FFB better (or worse). Regardless of the TV settings, the picture on the TV will still be based on the reality that is filmed by the camera, just like the FFB signal will be based on the simulated physics of the game.
Yes. I know that. There's nothing wrong with the FFB. I've adjusted it to feel very good. However, no matter what I change, the Thrustmaster T300 on the PS4 has a fundamental problem, and that's the centre spring force. You can look across the forums here and on the Project CARS official forums and everyone who has the same setup as myself; PS4 + T300, will be having the exact same problem.
Yep, and what I find a little strange is many users don't see it as a massive problem. Maybe because they don't realise that's not supposed to happen... but without it I know the game would feel 100x better.I hope it will be resolved, I guess a lot of people invested in a PS4 and a T300 for this game.