Some information I have come across recently that I thought would make for some interesting reading.
From Casey Ringley, vehicle technical lead,
You know, one thing I forgot about that track is the altitude effect on aerodynamics. Thinner air means less power from the engine, but it also means less downforce from the wings. It might be you want to adjust the wing settings in a setup for RBR specifically. Try taking the rear wing up to the max setting and then feed in extra front wing until it feels balanced.
It wasn't in 1, but is now. Altitude/barometric pressure affect the engine power, aero drag & downforce, and cooling of the tire, brakes, and engine.
We didn't go so far as to factor in temperature and humidity yet, but it's on a future wishlist. That kind of thing is a big deal at super speedways like Indianapolis.
Below is tire temp / pressure chart created by jimmyb 84 .
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?55303-Tire-temps-pcars-2
from Doug 914 , car physics and AI,
Great Post, and yes we modelled these modern slicks exactly as they are in real life. Softs are rarely faster than Hards because with the rubber tech nowadays the fastest compound is the one that matches the heat conditions. That means unless it's really cold ambient temps, the Hards are the ones to use.
i will say we that we adjusted the Hard's lower temp sensitivity slighty for patch 3, so there will be a bit more grip at low temps, so this might close up your gap you are experiencing between the softs and hards allowing the hards to be more widely usable. Most of the info for this came directly from the real drivers and the manufacturers themselves. Yes, The main heat build in the tires is slip or scrub (so "work" based). Another thing to be aware of is that the telemetries are showing bulk tread temps and not "flash" surface temps, which range 20-30C deg higher, but are difficult to work with for how rapidly they change.
For the specific problem of the 991R tires leaving the track, this is classic bumpstop contact being too aggressive. I'm not a big fan of bumpstops in real life chassis setup and also in virtual setups. So the first thing i would do is completly remove all the bumpstops. If that seems to have a positive effect on the problem, then slowly work them back up till you get a good compromise. Good luck
EDIT: Another item is too much diff lock in either direction, depending on if you are on or off the throttle at that point. My goto would usually be the decell side being too tight.