Post a pic of your real car

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I put Dunlop DZ102s on my Lexus. Cheaper than some of the high end all-seasons even.
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Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't there some ridiculously good all seasons? I keep hearing about the Michelin Primacy tires.
 
The Dunlop Star Specs are actually a great street tire in warm climates, crazy good in the wet and dry even when cold. Also I think the R888 is a DOT legal tire.

I have to say I disagree with all of this. :D

I ran 2 sets of Dunlop ZII over 2 & 1/2 seasons. Don't get me wrong, I love the tire. And I would buy them again. It has many of the characteristics of a dedicated track tire but without a lot of the vices. That said, there seems to be two polar opposite opinions on it's wet performance. Some people say it's great. Others say it's terrible. Having gone through 2 sets, but having done only one track event and one road trip in heavy rain, and having spoken to several other people who had a similar experience, I think it's fair to say that their wet performance is pretty good when they're new. But once they're heat cycled out, regardless of how much tread you have left, they're scary and it's like driving on ice.

I was at NJMP in June of last year and we had a passing thunderstorm that dumped a lot of water on the track: thunder, lightning, howling wind, the whole bit. But after about an hour the sun came out and the track started drying quickly. To be fair, there was a fair bit of standing water in some places, but a slowly drying line in others. I spent 3 laps of white knuckle horror show before returning to the pits. Even with the traction control on, any more than 50% throttle in any gear without the car pointed perfectly straight and the car was all over the road. I mean oversteer everywhere. I was going around corners at least 15-20 mph slower than the guys with street tires and was having to take ridiculously erratic lines and crazy amounts of opposite lock just to keep the car on the road. It was more like driving on ice than it was on water. And I was going speeds that I would have otherwise been OK to drive a stock Toyota Camry.

The year before I was driving in moderate rain on the highway and they were OK. But I wasn't doing anything to really test their grip level.

Warmer weather is the key though. And if you've had an overnight frost, driving with the ZII can be pretty treacherous.

As for the R888, it's even marked competition use only right on the tire.

Even though I don't plan on it, I don't think I would have any issue daily driving the R88's since my car is AWD.
The man is a true believer. But in this case, Quattro is a false god.

Here in California where it never rains I was pretty much able to daily drive on the R888s. I only have a 30 mile commute though. Didn't really have any major problems in the rain, but it's safe to avoid large puddles of course.

I still want some 15s and Rivals though...

I lived about a mile from LAX back in the mid 90s and my wife is from Covina. I remember the months of no rain. Just curious, how many miles did you get out of them just daily driving?
 
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Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't there some ridiculously good all seasons? I keep hearing about the Michelin Primacy tires.

I'm sure there are, but not at the price range and sizing I wanted.

I lived about a mile from LAX back in the mid 90s and my wife is from Covina. I remember the months of no rain. Just curious, how many miles did you get out of them just daily driving?

10,000 miles with flipping the fronts left vs right and 2-3 track days I think. 3* front camber.
 
Maybe it's
I have to say I disagree with all of this. :D

I ran 2 sets of Dunlop ZII over 2 & 1/2 seasons. Don't get me wrong, I love the tire. And I would buy them again. It has many of the characteristics of a dedicated track tire but without a lot of the vices. That said, there seems to be two polar opposite opinions on it's wet performance. Some people say it's great. Others say it's terrible. Having gone through 2 sets, but having done only one track event and one road trip in heavy rain, and having spoken to several other people who had a similar experience, I think it's fair to say that their wet performance is pretty good when they're new. But once they're heat cycled out, regardless of how much tread you have left, they're scary and it's like driving on ice.

I was at NJMP in June of last year and we had a passing thunderstorm that dumped a lot of water on the track: thunder, lightning, howling wind, the whole bit. But after about an hour the sun came out and the track started drying quickly. To be fair, there was a fair bit of standing water in some places, but a slowly drying line in others. I spent 3 laps of white knuckle horror show before returning to the pits. Even with the traction control on, any more than 50% throttle in any gear without the car pointed perfectly straight and the car was all over the road. I mean oversteer everywhere. I was going around corners at least 15-20 mph slower than the guys with street tires and was having to take ridiculously erratic lines and crazy amounts of opposite lock just to keep the car on the road. It was more like driving on ice than it was on water. And I was going speeds that I would have otherwise been OK to drive a stock Toyota Camry.

The year before I was driving in moderate rain on the highway and they were OK. But I wasn't doing anything to really test their grip level.

Warmer weather is the key though. And if you've had an overnight frost, driving with the ZII can be pretty treacherous.

As for the R888, it's even marked competition use only right on the tire.


The man is a true believer. But in this case, Quattro is a false god.



I lived about a mile from LAX back in the mid 90s and my wife is from Covina. I remember the months of no rain. Just curious, how many miles did you get out of them just daily driving?

Maybe light cars do better on them? Locally the guys with Star Specs do great in the rain and personally I was amazed at the wet grip. I have done a few autocross and a few 50 mile trips in heavy rain with both good and bad tread depth in my miata. Great grip until they started touching the wear bars. Then it was horrible like any other tire.

The R888 are a DOT approved tire and are to my knowledge completely legal for street driving, just not recommend.
 
Maybe light cars do better on them? Locally the guys with Star Specs do great in the rain and personally I was amazed at the wet grip. I have done a few autocross and a few 50 mile trips in heavy rain with both good and bad tread depth in my miata. Great grip until they started touching the wear bars. Then it was horrible like any other tire.

The R888 are a DOT approved tire and are to my knowledge completely legal for street driving, just not recommend.

I'm not sure what to say. When I had my car corner balanced it was just over 2,600-lbs with a half tank of fuel (and without me in it). That's a few hundred pounds heavier than an NA but still pretty light. I'm almost beginning to think that there were some inconsistencies with the compounds of the StarSpecs. People's experiences seem to be polar opposite. But I still say it might have to do with heat cycles.

You may be right about the R888s and I may be confusing them with the RA1s. I'll have to check.


10,000 miles with flipping the fronts left vs right and 2-3 track days I think. 3* front camber.

Wow, better than I thought. I'm running -3.2 on the front now and I'm wondering how it's going to affect tire wear long term. But if things go as planned I may just be putting it on a trailer next year for anything more than 200 miles away.
 
Hancook C91s from an old Formula Mazda are fun. 13" 9lb wheel. Steer with the throttle for days.
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I didn't know Hankook made a race tire other than the RS3.

I'm not sure what to say. When I had my car corner balanced it was just over 2,600-lbs with a half tank of fuel (and without me in it). That's a few hundred pounds heavier than an NA but still pretty light. I'm almost beginning to think that there were some inconsistencies with the compounds of the StarSpecs. People's experiences seem to be polar opposite. But I still say it might have to do with heat cycles.

You may be right about the R888s and I may be confusing them with the RA1s. I'll have to check.

I have driven a S2K with a bad set of brand new Star Specs so it wouldn't be a huge surprise to me.

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For my first autocross event I had 3 different brands of terrible tires and the right rear had lost all of its tread. Absolutely no grip whatsoever.
 
Car guy = plans mods that make the car 'hotter'
Track guy = plans mods that make the car 'cooler'

Both figuratively and literally. :sly:

Of course it's always good to have a little of both.
 
So far, I seem to be getting plenty of grip out of my Hankook Ventus V12 Evo2's in my STU Autocross class. The only complaint I have is the sidewalls are pretty soft, but giving the tires a bit more pressure should fix that.
 
All this talk of sport tires and I'm sitting here with a set of General Altimax RT43 all-season tires.

Hey man don't diss the RT43s. Even if they're awful for spirited driving. :lol:

Friend has them on his Celica, whenever it corners hard it lets out a very dramatic screech.

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Truck stuff
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Speaking of tires I've been wishing you could still get performance tires for 14 inch wheels. I don't wanna change the wheels on the Supra, but you can't get any half decent tires for them.
 
Hey man don't diss the RT43s. Even if they're awful for spirited driving. :lol:

Friend has them on his Celica, whenever it corners hard it lets out a very dramatic screech.

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Truck stuff
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Speaking of tires I've been wishing you could still get performance tires for 14 inch wheels. I don't wanna change the wheels on the Supra, but you can't get any half decent tires for them.
I wasn't dissing the RT43s - they're actually not half bad for spirited driving (I think...Never gone past 55-60 in a good turn).
 
I wasn't dissing the RT43s - they're actually not half bad for spirited driving (I think...Never gone past 55-60 in a good turn).

From my experience they're pretty bad in the twisties. I had to drive my friends to his house the other morning and taking a sharp turn at a leisurely 20 or so led to tons of tire squeal and lots of under steer. :P

Good tires otherwise!
 
1) I’ll start with a not so obvious one first. Insurance. We live in a very litigious society. Especially if you’re dealing with one of the larger insurance companies like a Geico or Allstate, that’s known to investigate claims, and they find out you had non-DOT tires mounted on the car, don’t be surprised if they use it to build a case to mitigate or possibly outright deny your claim, should you have an accident. Which might not be a big deal if you have a $3,000 fender bender. It could be a very big deal if you’re laid up in the hospital for 3 months with serious injuries. Along with a buddy or two. Chances are you could fight it but now you’re talking serious and nasty litigation. I've driven on the road with my Toyos too. But it's usually just going from the track back to a local hotel where I'm simply too lazy/tired/out of time to switch back to my road wheels for the short few miles or less. So yeah, call me a hypocrite here. :sly:

R888's are a completely DOT legal tire. Though I admit, barely...

2) R-compound tires are designed to endure heat cycles rather than miles. They build up heat and pressure. If you’re driving on public roads, you are NOT going to get these tires up to full temperature. Maybe if you live near an empty canyon road, possibly. And as I said,the weight of your car alone is a fair and mitigating point. But then you’re going to be driving at speeds that will pretty much lead to an arrest and suspended and/or revoked license if you get caught. Not to mention the trauma and danger of coming up on a slower moving driver around a blind corner. In short, you’d have to drive like a complete ass-hat on an empty road to keep these tires up to their optimal performance window. As such, under most conditions, you are not going to get the performance out of these tires that you could and that they're engineered to give you.

I will never reach the optimum level of grip on public roads, I knew this when choosing what tire to purchase. But a semi-warm R888 will be just as quick if not quicker than almost all of the 'summer' tires available today. On a dry road of course :)

3) That said, even if you’re not getting them up to proper pressure/temperature, you’re still burning through heat cycles. And unlike normal performance tires that will last 5,000~15,000 miles, once you have 35-50 heat cycles out of an R888, they fall off a performance cliff. You can still use them but effectively, they’re done. You may not feel it because in truth, on the street, you won’t be pushing the car like you would at an autocross or on track where you would feel it. They aren't going to shread and die. But at that point, they don’t ‘bite’ anymore. They become greasy. They slide. They’re inconsistent. Have you not experienced this yourself? So every time you go out and put a few miles on them, you’re taking a chunk out of their performance window at about 20 times the rate you would with a normal summer performance tire. And you don’t have to be driving ‘hard’ to do it.

This is true on the track, not the street. On the most crazy high speed and twisty roads my R888 have never come close to reaching their optimal operating temperature. But that also means these tires don't see temperatures hot enough to heat cycle out. You need to be on a track and really get some heat in those tires before they go through a proper heat cycle. I know many people who have pretty much used R888's on their daily and have always kept the same level of grip until they ran out of tread.

4) A tire with that much potential grip has it’s effects on the car’s suspension and chassis dynamics. You’ll potentially roll over (lean) more in corners. And you’ll be losing contact patch. It depends on so many different factors but to really take advantage of them, you’re going to want to run at least 2.5 degrees or more of negative camber. For a normal performance tire that would probably be too much. But for Proxes you can go further and there’s a sweet spot where the ideal balance is reached. And it makes little sense to drive a road car around on the street, over bumps and ruts and potholes and speed bumps, stopping at traffic lights, waiting for people parallel parking, etc., with a suspension set up to take advantage of the performance edge which tires like that can POTENTIALLY give you. OK, some people do. I guess I'm just too old to go through that myself anymore. :lol:

Yes I'm well aware of how the suspension and geometry of the car will be affected by running basically R-comps. That's why I upgraded pretty much my whole suspension before getting tires :D

5) Yes they have treads. Yes you can get by if you tiptoe on damp asphalt. But if it starts to pour hard rain unexpectedly you better park the damn thing and quickly. Especially if it’s ‘chilly’. Maybe you've had a different experience. But if you get caught out in a rain storm it can be pretty dangerous. If it happens at the track you can usually make it back to the pits before it's truly wet enough to be a problem. On the road, miles from home, well... Again, if you're smart about it and aware of the conditions, it's fine. It's just a point to consider.

So far they've been fine on the wet, but I don't plan on doing any driving in the wet.

6) The compound these tires are made with is very sensitive. It’s not has prickly as a Nitto or Hoosier but it’s still affected by extreme conditions. Even if you’re smart and dismount the tires during the cold months, assuming you live somewhere where it freezes during the winter, make sure you bring the tires inside and store them in your basement rather than the garage. Because prolonged exposure to below freezing temperatures means they’re done. You're never going to get the same grip out of them again. Maintaining r-compounds is frankly, a PITA. It's like taking care of a baby. But one with mutant super powers. :lol:

Heated garage :)

I could go on and on here. But the point is, the more grip and performance a tire has, the narrower it’s performance operating window will be. And the more compromises it will suffer. Let’s put it this way. If you take a “cold” set of Proxes and a set of g-Force Rivals on the same car and just go out there and do a 80-0 braking test, and a skidpad test, I’m guessing the Rival will out perform or at least equal the R888. Dial in appropriate suspension settings (camber, toe, dampening, rebound, etc) and get the R888 up to temperature, to the point that the compound feels like gooey, sticky mush and it’s NO comparison. It’s stopping power, grip, handling balance will be superior. But it's real advantage is the ability to run CONSISTENTLY hard, mile after mile, where the Rivals will start to fall off and shred after 15-20 minutes. And those are advantages you just won’t see unless you’re on a closed circuit AND pushing really hard. So yes, for your track runs, the R888 would be better. For weekend blasts, probably not.

Good points but that's why I drive around for 10-15 minutes before attacking the twisties. Even on the street you can easily tell the difference between cold and semi-warm R888's.

Your comments about the cost difference is certainly an eye opener. I never would have imagined such a price difference but it's a fair (and unfortunate) point that prices vary widely depending on sizes. And I can understand, money is money. But in principle it shouldn't really factor into it. Mile for mile, the BFG Rivals will or at least should last a LOT longer than the Proxes. Or at least let's say, they'll maintain their level of performance longer. So in a sense, that should negate the cost difference.

I only drive around 3,000 miles a year. So even if the Rivals last for 20,000 or more miles, I don't want to be running on 7 year old tires :nervous:


I really think this depends on the size if the tire and what car your running it on. Most of the Camaro/Corvette/Porsche/BMW guys absolutely adore the R888's on and off the track while the Miata/Lotus/Mini guys have mixed reviews. I know for me it turned my car into a guided missile, with the proper suspension and weight reduction mods :sly:
 
From my experience they're pretty bad in the twisties. I had to drive my friends to his house the other morning and taking a sharp turn at a leisurely 20 or so led to tons of tire squeal and lots of under steer. :P

Good tires otherwise!
I drive a modestly hefty car. My Impala tips in at 3500 pounds, so maybe that's why I have a different experience.
 
R888's are a completely DOT legal tire. Though I admit, barely...

I will never reach the optimum level of grip on public roads, I knew this when choosing what tire to purchase. But a semi-warm R888 will be just as quick if not quicker than almost all of the 'summer' tires available today. On a dry road of course :)

This is true on the track, not the street. On the most crazy high speed and twisty roads my R888 have never come close to reaching their optimal operating temperature. But that also means these tires don't see temperatures hot enough to heat cycle out. You need to be on a track and really get some heat in those tires before they go through a proper heat cycle. I know many people who have pretty much used R888's on their daily and have always kept the same level of grip until they ran out of tread.

I stand corrected. So it seems they are DOT legal. Although just barely is correct. On Tire Rack's own disclaimer they write, "...Never intended to be driven on the street..." Although I'm not sure how that makes them DOT legal within the parameters given. Hmmm.

Anyway, my experience with the RA1 has been noticeably different. It takes a good 2 hard laps before they really get up to proper temperature and I noticed on a cool down lap and a drive through the pits at Watkins Glen that they had already lost noticeable grip on my next outlap. I have to be 'on it' to maintain maximum grip. Now granted, that was back in early May when the ambient temperature was only 48* and the asphalt under shadow. But I was shocked at how quickly they fell off. I suppose this is a combination of a lighter car and lower asphalt temperatures.

EDIT: Video here if you're interested. It's pretty clear how I'm fighting understeer in this video and struggling to get enough heat in the tires.



And you probably have a very good point about the weight of the car and how drivers of different cars have experienced different results. A few years back when the R888 became the official tire for some NASA spec racing, there were complaints all up and down about how the tire suffered a fall off in performance after just a few weekends. (These were all Miata guys doing the complaining). And I know of at least one other BRZ driver who complained about the same thing. He's just doing HPDE and not racing. So I guess experiences do indeed vary greatly.

(*) After this event I increased front camber, decreased front toe, zeroed out rear toe and softened the dampening on the front. Still working on it. But will be back at Watkins in 10 days.

Heated garage :)
:eek::grumpy: = Complete and total envy. :lol: Mine is pretty well insulated so it normally doesn't get below freezing. But I'm at just high enough elevation that we'll have days in January/February where it's hitting sub zero temperatures at night and then all bets are off.

I really think this depends on the size if the tire and what car your running it on. Most of the Camaro/Corvette/Porsche/BMW guys absolutely adore the R888's on and off the track while the Miata/Lotus/Mini guys have mixed reviews. I know for me it turned my car into a guided missile, with the proper suspension and weight reduction mods :sly:

Very interesting. Just curious, what kind of pressures are you at (when cold) and what kind of pressures are you getting up to when say, the tires are comfortably warm? With my Z2s, I usually tried to set them around 32-34 (cold) on the street. Below that I had no grip when they were cold. I don't think I ever checked how warm they were getting. But on track I tried to (ideally) come off track with hot pressures of around 37-38 psi. So it was a matter of constantly letting air out. The following morning I was usually down to 26-29 f/r when completely cold. With the RA1s the difference is not quite that extreme. But I was only running 215/45/17 on the ZII. (235/40/17 for the RA1). So the narrower tire also meant it had a much narrower temperature and performance range. They heated up quicker and stayed there longer. The wider Toyos take longer to heat up and don't heat up as much. And they drop off faster too. If you're running 315s, even with a heavier car, it's amazing that they heat up that effectively.
 
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