Post your FFB settings here
- Thread starter Timppaq
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- 8,423
- Rockay City
Megane RS, Focus RS. Increasing tyre force helps a lot with those BTW, as well as selecting non-default tyres (e.g. not the semi/road legal slicks, but the regular summer sports tyres), but haven't found an optimal setting just yet. BMW 1M Coupe is very nice to drive also.
I also did notice some clipping when testing your settings BTW, which is a bit weird, because in your video I can't see any. Probably requires some fiddling with the FFB strength on my side.
- 1,001
- Germany
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
- 8,423
- Rockay City
Great vid, perfect explanation. If you want to try yourself on PC in Project CARS, enable the center spring and set it to 100%. Then bump the tyre force and FFB strength to max. This will drown out all of the FFB effects. 
You also have the inverse, which is why iRacing has the 'minimum force' slider. This means that if FFB is below a certain value, your wheel won't respond/you won't feel anything. (think of this as the FFB not being strong enough to move the wheel) That means that you can't feel subtle effects, like microbumps. In Project CARS there is no 'minimum force' slider, but I think the same effect can be achieved with a couple of the other sliders, which acts a compressor (as in dynamic range reduction, not as in file compression), so the minimum values are bumped up.
You also have the inverse, which is why iRacing has the 'minimum force' slider. This means that if FFB is below a certain value, your wheel won't respond/you won't feel anything. (think of this as the FFB not being strong enough to move the wheel) That means that you can't feel subtle effects, like microbumps. In Project CARS there is no 'minimum force' slider, but I think the same effect can be achieved with a couple of the other sliders, which acts a compressor (as in dynamic range reduction, not as in file compression), so the minimum values are bumped up.
- 1,001
- Germany
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
In PCars, FFB clipping is indicated in the telemetry screen. As soon as the moving curve hits the top of the little window and goes flat, you're clipping. Turn down the FFB Master Scale or Tire Force in the settings until that curve always stays within the limits of the window.
- 8,423
- Rockay City
Been playing around with FFB settings this evening. I used the WheelCheck utility to check the input vs output and linearity of my G27. I found out it's fairly linear, but output doesn't start until input is at at least 18% (at 100% FFB strength)! This means that if you have small details, they're going to get lost because the input is insufficient to bring the wheel in motion.
To counter this, one could try to raise FFB strength in the LT profiler. At 125% the dead zone is completely gone, at the expense of severe clipping at the top end (since all input is amplified 125%). You'lll also lose linearity. So I decided to stick with the standard 100% and increase tyre force in the game instead.
Also note that the FFB strength number in Project CARS is identical to the number in the LT profiler. So 85% strength in game = 85% strength in the LT profiler. But at 85% the deadzone is significantly larger, so you'll lose even more low end detail!
So I settled on setting the in-game FFB strength slider at 100%. Of course, to get back the detail, one has to increase the tyre force (input for the FFB). This I increased to 150. Any higher and clipping will be severe. I find this a good balance for my G27. Note that this may or may not apply to any other wheel, e.g. you'll have to figure out the values yourself.
I guess this is just a workaround within the limitations of the G27. I assume G25 is different because I get different results than Timo with the same numbers.
Does anyone know how to soft-limit (compress) the FFB output? This could dampen the clipping introduced by raising the input. But I'm not quite sure which slider(s) to move here. Is that Scoop?
To counter this, one could try to raise FFB strength in the LT profiler. At 125% the dead zone is completely gone, at the expense of severe clipping at the top end (since all input is amplified 125%). You'lll also lose linearity. So I decided to stick with the standard 100% and increase tyre force in the game instead.
Also note that the FFB strength number in Project CARS is identical to the number in the LT profiler. So 85% strength in game = 85% strength in the LT profiler. But at 85% the deadzone is significantly larger, so you'll lose even more low end detail!
So I settled on setting the in-game FFB strength slider at 100%. Of course, to get back the detail, one has to increase the tyre force (input for the FFB). This I increased to 150. Any higher and clipping will be severe. I find this a good balance for my G27. Note that this may or may not apply to any other wheel, e.g. you'll have to figure out the values yourself.
I guess this is just a workaround within the limitations of the G27. I assume G25 is different because I get different results than Timo with the same numbers.
Does anyone know how to soft-limit (compress) the FFB output? This could dampen the clipping introduced by raising the input. But I'm not quite sure which slider(s) to move here. Is that Scoop?
- 1,001
- Germany
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
@LogiForce: Your expertise is needed :-)
LogiForce
Premium
- 4,078
- Groningen, Netherlands
- LogiForce86
- LogiForce
@NLxAROSA and @blowfishrulez:
Here's the link to the internal FFB guide (WMD-toolpack needed): http://forum.wmdportal.com/showthre...INATION-CONFIG&p=738985&viewfull=1#post738985
Look at TightenCenterRange. Which should remove that initial deadzone before the FFB motors start to spin.
I would explain further, but I have to get up early and won't have time again until Sunday. So I hope you guys can tinker with it with that information for now.
Edit:
I don't know what figures are in the FFB menu now. But in a 0.0 to 1.0 range the Tightencenterrange used was often 0.08 or 0.09 in the external FFBTweaker. For the G25/27 that is.
Here's the link to the internal FFB guide (WMD-toolpack needed): http://forum.wmdportal.com/showthre...INATION-CONFIG&p=738985&viewfull=1#post738985
Look at TightenCenterRange. Which should remove that initial deadzone before the FFB motors start to spin.
I would explain further, but I have to get up early and won't have time again until Sunday. So I hope you guys can tinker with it with that information for now.
Edit:
I don't know what figures are in the FFB menu now. But in a 0.0 to 1.0 range the Tightencenterrange used was often 0.08 or 0.09 in the external FFBTweaker. For the G25/27 that is.
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- 1,001
- Germany
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
Besides the 1080° Wheel Range of the T300, the TX Base is pretty much exactly the same as the T300. If they dont have a profile for the TX yet, you may want to use the T300 profile. The default+0.06 TightenCenterRange gives me very impressive FFB out of the box. I would then just adjust the FFB Master Scale per car to get the strenght that you like. Keep an eye on FFB Clipping and youre good i would say.
- 3,268
- London
- Mauler_77
does the game save FFB settings per car so that you won't have to input them all the time?
- 1,001
- Germany
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
If that transfers to console, its the best news in a dogs age.... Name that movie anyone?
- 8,423
- Rockay City
Ok, now I have a new problem. Previously, I was not aware of the limitations of the G27 wheel (especially the huge irresponsive FFB area). Thing is, as long as you don't know it doesn't bother you of course. And in games that don't have this detailed FFB it's not a problem either. But now that I know that the Project CARS FFB is a lot more detailed then my wheel can physically handle, I feel a bit like I'm missing out. I guess I know where this is headed.
GTAndy36
Premium
- 925
- Wiltshire, UK
- AndySimba
Thrustmaster T300 ville I'm afraid my friend! It is quite amazing, the difference this wheel has made to my GT6 feel, especially now I've sorted the FFB settings. (T-6/S-7)Ok, now I have a new problem. Previously, I was not aware of the limitations of the G27 wheel (especially the huge irresponsive FFB area). Thing is, as long as you don't know it doesn't bother you of course. And in games that don't have this detailed FFB it's not a problem either. But now that I know that the Project CARS FFB is a lot more detailed then my wheel can physically handle, I feel a bit like I'm missing out. I guess I know where this is headed.
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- 28,470
- Windsor, Ontario, Canada
- Johnnypenso
You and me bothOk, now I have a new problem. Previously, I was not aware of the limitations of the G27 wheel (especially the huge irresponsive FFB area). Thing is, as long as you don't know it doesn't bother you of course. And in games that don't have this detailed FFB it's not a problem either. But now that I know that the Project CARS FFB is a lot more detailed then my wheel can physically handle, I feel a bit like I'm missing out. I guess I know where this is headed.
- 8,423
- Rockay City
So I found what I was looking for, right in the game menu. Can't believe I overlooked it at first.Thanks, that's very helpful. I read the descriptions in the game menu, but this explains it in so much more detail. 👍 Now let's look up that FFBTweaker thing.
Deadzone Removal Range it is, and it should be quite high for the G27 in order to bring back the detail (since the FFB stays dead up to around 18% input). I started with 0.18 and that brought back some of the detail, but still very shallow. So I upped it to 0.25 and now it feels great. Higher than 0.30 is not advisable as this will make the FFB motors work against eachother when going straight (oscillation).So my current settings, changed from the default are:
FFB Strength: 100%
Tyre Force: 150%
Deadzone Removal Range: 0.25
This setting actually feels great with road cars, brings back the missing detail. Kerbs, grass, small bumps, you can feel it all. 👍 There's still some FX drownout when turning hard left or right, but I'm sure I can tweak that out.
Will keep you guys posted on further testing and also with different car/track combos.
- 1,001
- Germany
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
So I found what I was looking for, right in the game menu. Can't believe I overlooked it at first.
So my current settings, changed from the default are:
FFB Strength: 100%
Tyre Force: 150%
Deadzone Removal Range: 0.25
This setting actually feels great with road cars, brings back the missing detail. Kerbs, grass, small bumps, you can feel it all. 👍 There's still some FX drownout when turning hard left or right, but I'm sure I can tweak that out.
The Ford GT MK IV should have the most heavy steering out of the box. You might want to turn down the FFB for that car then.
LogiForce
Premium
- 4,078
- Groningen, Netherlands
- LogiForce86
- LogiForce
Project CARS has always been about 'options options options'. That's the main thing we felt lacked in any console title. Some games lacked this and others that, but non of them had all the goodies.
While this does mean it can make you dizzy at first, it will empower you once you get used to them.
Good luck tweaking.
GTAndy36
Premium
- 925
- Wiltshire, UK
- AndySimba
This being said, I've got a new found respect for GT6 since driving it with the T300RS. Once the two FFB settings are sorted out so you're not getting any clipping (Cheers fellas! 👍) the feedback in road cars on sports tyres are pretty fantastic. Sure, we can't change FFB strength per car... but there's only so much the PS3 can handle. The more you think about what GT6 actually does, the more you should realise it's pretty fantastic considering what hardware it's all running on.
However, like you I can't wait to get stuck into making each car feel fantastic in PCars
- 8,423
- Rockay City
I've settled on the following main FFB settings when playing Project CARS with my G27. These eliminate the FFB deadzone without going into oscillation and provide a good feel for both race and road cars.
Logitech Profiler settings:
1. Select default settings.
2. Set steering wheel angle to 900 degrees.
3. Set center spring to 0%.
Ingame settings:
1. Calibrate wheel and pedals.
2. Set FFB at 100.
3. Set Tyre Force at 140.
4. Set Deadzone Removal Range to 0.18
Note: when using FFB < 100% you must increase Deadzone Removal Range, since lowering FFB strength will increase the FFB deadzone. So my advice would be to keep FFB at 100%. I also tried forcing FFB to 125% in the LT Profiler. This eliminates deadzone too, but at the expense of linearity and clipping. Since the game only supports 100% maximum I decided to work within the confines of that parameter.
Note2: these are just the general settings, fine tune per car when desired as well. The settings are a good base to start from with any car though.
Note3: settings are for G27, not G25. G25 is a fundamentally different wheel (different deadzone for instance), so will require its own settings.
Logitech Profiler settings:
1. Select default settings.
2. Set steering wheel angle to 900 degrees.
3. Set center spring to 0%.
Ingame settings:
1. Calibrate wheel and pedals.
2. Set FFB at 100.
3. Set Tyre Force at 140.
4. Set Deadzone Removal Range to 0.18
Note: when using FFB < 100% you must increase Deadzone Removal Range, since lowering FFB strength will increase the FFB deadzone. So my advice would be to keep FFB at 100%. I also tried forcing FFB to 125% in the LT Profiler. This eliminates deadzone too, but at the expense of linearity and clipping. Since the game only supports 100% maximum I decided to work within the confines of that parameter.
Note2: these are just the general settings, fine tune per car when desired as well. The settings are a good base to start from with any car though.
Note3: settings are for G27, not G25. G25 is a fundamentally different wheel (different deadzone for instance), so will require its own settings.
