PRAIANO'S TUNES : SETTINGS FOR GT7

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I have another power outlet downstairs , still 220V but with much more Ampere , around 20A. Perhaps the one i have in my room is too short and can't deliver the power... i don't know , i've seen a guy on youtube talking about it.

EDIT: Or it can be the USB c that burn after a very few minutes when i conected the VR , it work during a few time. ! year without using this port (Never use it ) Seaside is very bad for PS5. Corrosion
 
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I hope you get the USB issue resolved easily. For me, I only used the VR controllers when first setting up but they have stayed in the box since then! Can you disconnect all USB devices except for PSVR and get it set up that way?
 
I hope you get the USB issue resolved easily. For me, I only used the VR controllers when first setting up but they have stayed in the box since then! Can you disconnect all USB devices except for PSVR and get it set up that way?
Yes , everything disconnected , only VR2 but same message.
 
Mazda 787 B '91 - 700PP - Racing Hard Tires - Nordschleife - 1.41
Around a 6:25 lap in my hands , same pace as GTR Nismo. Top 700PP car there. I think this setting can be applied for others Older GR1 if they can reach this low PP . I didn't test , but it work for Sardegna at 800PP.

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>((((°>°°°°°°
Enjoy your drive.
 
Perhaps the one i have in my room is too short and can't deliver the power...
It can't be this. PSVR2 is working under 12V and 0.6A . It 's around 7W only. Very few power needed .
Perhaps i have to change the USB-C due to corrosion. I'll try to find another PS5 in my village to check . Not easy to find in this place.
 
It can't be this. PSVR2 is working under 12V and 0.6A . It 's around 7W only. Very few power needed .
Perhaps i have to change the USB-C due to corrosion. I'll try to find another PS5 in my village to check . Not easy to find in this place.
Unfortunately when I read about this issue on other forums and Reddit it appears most of the time it is the PSVR2 unit that is faulty :(
 
I have this problem, when I connect VR, wheel and gamepad charger at the same time. When I connect only VR at front port and wheel at front port, everything works
 
I'm not fortunate enough to have a PSVR2, but my understanding is that it must be connected via the front ports. Are you connecting it via the front?
 
Mazda 787 B '91 - 700PP - Racing Hard Tires - Nordschleife - 1.41
Around a 6:25 lap in my hands , same pace as GTR Nismo. Top 700PP car there. I think this setting can be applied for others Older GR1 if they can reach this low PP . I didn't test , but it work for Sardegna at 800PP.

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>((((°>°°°°°°
Enjoy your drive.
Just ran this on Le Mans 30min and it worked great, thanks!

I'll have to check out the other older Group C cars now and see if they all can hit 700pp while still being decent.

Do your existing Sauber and Jaguar Sardegna tunes work well for Spa too or would I need to edit them drastically?
 
Suzuka V6 Escudo Pikes Peak SP '98 - 700PP - Racing Hard tires - All Track - 1.31


Rims up to you - Width Wide - Offset Wide


No way too use Inter tires , a glitch raise the PP a lot. So no Le Mans event for this car.
No late braking , try to reach apex releasing gas pedal , it will add a lot of front grip doing this during fast turns.

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>((((°>°°°°°°

Enjoy your drive.
I was looking at this again and went to the tuning shop and saw the IM and Wet tires lowered PP so figured they finally fixed this glitch.


Went to Le Mans, started the event and realized I couldn't switch off the Hards and they were still bugged - just didn't show in the tuning shop.

How have they still not fixed this lol

Anyway forgot to switch back to my 800pp tune for Sardegna for this afterwards and still finished very comfortably at 700pp, the car is a blast.
 
Porsche 917 Living Legend - 800PP - Racing Medium Tires - All Track - 1.34
Same pace as the Porsche GT3 RS (991) '16 - 800 PP - Racing Soft tires - All Track - 1.32 I did my best to turn it +- sane . A very good car anywhere. Just take care when late on brake giving too much wheel angle. For the rest , full gas.

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>((((°>°°°°°°

Enjoy your drive.
I am getting pretty decent at driving your group C cars at Sardegna, so I decided to give this one a try this morning.

I kept losing it in places where the weight shifted to one side and then back to the other quickly. For instance, the S pattern that you drive through the 2nd to last turn. I tried the TCS at 1, 2, and 3, but it would still spin out.

Any recommendation on how to adjust either the tune or my driving to help out? Thanks!
 
SF23 Super Formula / Honda '23 - 947 PP - Racing Soft Tires - Fuji - 1.32

New update after some races testing best options. Final 2d at 3 seconds with some mistakes. To do 8 laps after first pit , 7/8 , a lighter car help to save some rubber . Use Brake balance +5 and never late brake 1st turn and before chicane. It pay better and save a lot of tires.
I use TC1. Up to you. Tomorrow i'll win this Fuji race. Very good race indeed.

EDIT: ANTI LAG SYSTEM STRONG ON

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>((((°>°°°°°°

Enjoy your drive.
Thank you so much! This helped me conquer Fuji, I still need to get used to barely using the brakes and trusting the downforce and grip of these things more.

Would this work well on Watkins Glen and Saint Croix for the Menu races as well?
 
I am getting pretty decent at driving your group C cars at Sardegna, so I decided to give this one a try this morning.

I kept losing it in places where the weight shifted to one side and then back to the other quickly. For instance, the S pattern that you drive through the 2nd to last turn. I tried the TCS at 1, 2, and 3, but it would still spin out.

Any recommendation on how to adjust either the tune or my driving to help out? Thanks!
I have watched a few videos on how to tune the cars but have yet to actually get in there and do real testing on my own. But the way you describe the weight shifting makes me think that the Anti-Roll bar setting is what you may want to experiment with adjusting. I have heard you can try adjusting in increments of 5 just so you can see the difference, but then try increments of 3 and then 1 to really fine-tune to your liking.

Also with that turning section you speak of, I always try to find the right point with the car I am using to just let off the throttle and coast into it, so that in the middle of the S part I just lightly tap the breaks, downshift, and then put a decent amount on the throttle coming out of it. When I was on Auto transmission I still would coast into that section.
 
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I am getting pretty decent at driving your group C cars at Sardegna, so I decided to give this one a try this morning.

I kept losing it in places where the weight shifted to one side and then back to the other quickly. For instance, the S pattern that you drive through the 2nd to last turn. I tried the TCS at 1, 2, and 3, but it would still spin out.

Any recommendation on how to adjust either the tune or my driving to help out? Thanks!
I know. This car is broken , it would drive like a real old car at least the ford Ford IV Race Car '67 or Jaguar XJ13 '66 ....
I did my best to turn it drivable. Try the stock and you'll feel the drama.
Thank you so much! This helped me conquer Fuji, I still need to get used to barely using the brakes and trusting the downforce and grip of these things more.

Would this work well on Watkins Glen and Saint Croix for the Menu races as well?
I think the downforce is ok for track that need grip and top speed. Perhaps you can set a new top speed to match the track.
 
It can't be this. PSVR2 is working under 12V and 0.6A . It 's around 7W only. Very few power needed .
Perhaps i have to change the USB-C due to corrosion. I'll try to find another PS5 in my village to check . Not easy to find in this place.
and ?
what about psvr2 now?
everyone is waiting for an update!!
Unfortunately I can't say anything about setting up the PSVR2, it's been too long since I did that!
 
Interesting about the Living Legend. It came as a free download with my PS5 bundle and was my most used car while still new to the game and going through the single-player campaign. That was back when I had not adjusted anything as far as assist settings go including switching to manual transmission or making any tuning adjustments. I found the Ferrari VGT and the Living Legend were the 2 most driveable faster cars as a beginner and worked great for automatic transmission. I may have just gotten used to its limitations. I haven't touched it in months so I'm curious now to go tune it up and see the difference as you stated. I feel like I opened up a whole different world when I finally learned to drive a manual. And of course, discovering this thread.
 
and ?
what about psvr2 now?
everyone is waiting for an update!!
Unfortunately I can't say anything about setting up the PSVR2, it's been too long since I did that!
Do you know something about PSVR2 update to come ?
Later today or tomorrow i'll try to connect the PSVR2 to another new PS5 , if i can see the red light it means that my USB-C is corrupted. Then i'll look for a repar or a new PS5 i don't know . After 2 years at the seaside ..........
 
Do you know something about PSVR2 update to come ?
Later today or tomorrow i'll try to connect the PSVR2 to another new PS5 , if i can see the red light it means that my USB-C is corrupted. Then i'll look for a repar or a new PS5 i don't know . After 2 years at the seaside ..........
sorry, I don't know anything about that!
It's been a while since the last update for the glasses!
I'm waiting for an update for GT7 PSVR2 myself so that the glasses can finally be used to their full potential like in Red Matter 2!!
I'm really sorry that it doesn't work for you!
GT7 with PSVR2 is a completely different game, and I can't drive without it!
 
I know. This car is broken , it would drive like a real old car at least the ford Ford IV Race Car '67 or Jaguar XJ13 '66 ....
I did my best to turn it drivable. Try the stock and you'll feel the drama.

I think the downforce is ok for track that need grip and top speed. Perhaps you can set a new top speed to match the track.
Gotcha thanks, set the top speed so it hits the limit at the end of the longest straight right before braking right?
 
Morning @praiano63,
I have an upcoming race. It will likely be over 12 laps with fuel and tyre wear on x8 and x12 (most likely).
The car must be 680-700pp with racing softs on. Would you say their is a stand out car or a few cars when considering fuel consumption at this level. Granted the racing softs restrict my choices alot but just thought I would rattle your brain to see what you think 😊
Thanks
 
Morning @praiano63,
I have an upcoming race. It will likely be over 12 laps with fuel and tyre wear on x8 and x12 (most likely).
The car must be 680-700pp with racing softs on. Would you say their is a stand out car or a few cars when considering fuel consumption at this level. Granted the racing softs restrict my choices alot but just thought I would rattle your brain to see what you think 😊
Thanks
The question is track dependant but as a general answer Gr3 cars have better fuel economy. I'd look at gr3 engine swaped cars on the first page. FR cars are likely to give you the best tyre wear. Can't see you not pitting though for 12 laps with such a high multiplier
 
Doesn't the category remain that of the chasis? So long as you start with a road car it should remain a road car, despite the engine.



On paper at least, the Mazda RX8 Spirit R 12 with 787b engine looks just the thing. Don't know how to link the build but it's in the swap list in 2nd post.

Edit, Just tried it on SS at 700pp at not the nicest of experiences!
 
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Morning @praiano63,
I have an upcoming race. It will likely be over 12 laps with fuel and tyre wear on x8 and x12 (most likely).
The car must be 680-700pp with racing softs on. Would you say their is a stand out car or a few cars when considering fuel consumption at this level. Granted the racing softs restrict my choices alot but just thought I would rattle your brain to see what you think 😊
Thanks
Hard to say without testing but SWAP option because of the low consumption racing car engine.
BMW 3.0 CSL '73 - 700PP - Racing Medium Tires - All Track - SWAP - 1.34
BMW M3 '89 - 700PP - Racing Hard Tires - All Track - SWAP - 1.34
BMW M3 '03 - 700PP - Racing Hard tires - Rear diffuser or not - SWAP -1.32

For sure some others.
 
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