Project cars 2 bug report Q&A

[JR98]

Some cars that are not openwheel actually don't have lights, making night races impossible with them.

Such is the case of the Audi in the glooorioussss GTO category. However, the others such as the F40 in the same category do have lights and can be used in night races.

Bug?, intended?

That's just how they are IRL. The IMSA Quattro, 300ZX, Mustang, etc. all have no headlights because I don't think they ever raced at night.

That's most likely why there's a second 300ZX GTO with headlights for racing at Le Mans.

 

[Gr8_Lakes]

That's most likely why there's a second 300ZX GTO with headlights for racing at Le Mans.

Ah ha!! That's why there's two nearly identical cars. Thank you for letting us know one has headlights. 👍

 

[Sentry87]

Hello, i don't know if it is a bug or not, but some cars ( especially the gt3 ) they have a strange physics. Sometimes it's like I do not understand what the car is about to do. Sometimes it has a strange behavior cornering. In general I think the gt have too much grip. The feeling is not relistic in my opinion.
Does anyone have the same feeling?

Try increasing tire pressure possibly. Gt3 feels good to me, then again I've never driven a gt3 car unlike you

 

[Johnnypenso]

Hello, i don't know if it is a bug or not, but some cars ( especially the gt3 ) they have a strange physics. Sometimes it's like I do not understand what the car is about to do. Sometimes it has a strange behavior cornering. In general I think the gt have too much grip. The feeling is not relistic in my opinion.
Does anyone have the same feeling?

Can you be more specific? Attach some video evidence maybe?. I haven't felt anything odd myself but I've only driven 3 or 4 of the GT3 cars so far. Whether they have too much overall grip or not isn't really a matter of opinion. You can compare laptimes in the game with real life laptimes to determine that. Checking lateral or longitudinal grip levels, real vs. game, would require a little more digging but could be done.

 

[Peppe_Tod]

Can you be more specific? Attach some video evidence maybe?. I haven't felt anything odd myself but I've only driven 3 or 4 of the GT3 cars so far. Whether they have too much overall grip or not isn't really a matter of opinion. You can compare laptimes in the game with real life laptimes to determine that. Checking lateral or longitudinal grip levels, real vs. game, would require a little more digging but could be done.

It's the feeling I have with the steering wheel. compared to assetto corsa I "feel" less the car

 

[fernandito]

^It is all about the track temperatures, and trying to get your tyres up to optimum temperature.

First off forget about soft tyres unless track temp is 1º or 2ºC. Always go hards. Your goal temp on hards is between 90-110º

Second, always try to go low on tyre pressures even on cold tracks. 1'6-1'7 hot pressure bar will do even on cold track temps.

When you run on very hot track conditions, try to run soften both rear and front springs and dampering, as well as both anti-roll bars, specially on technical tracks taking corners all the time with few straights where the tyres can get colder. Also, given the very heated surface, reduce downforce and trust the grip your heated tyres and mechanical grip should offer. This will also grant you a tiny extra speed on straights. Then, with the brake ducts try to find a balance by checking the ambient temperatures, not the track temperatures. If they are kind cold compared to the track (let's say 10-25º ambient), then close the ducts a lot in order to maintain the tyres on higher temps. If it is a track with many and long straights, such as Road America, run a very closed air duct setting as well despite the ambient temp is too high.

On cold tarmac races, first off also go hard unless the track temp is 1 or 2º or so you know. What you have to do here in order to increase the tyre temperatures as you race is to increase the downforce, specially on the rear; stiffer springs and roll bars on both the front and the rear; increased cold tyre pressure but just a bit; very closed radiator setting and bordering on closed brake ducts too, so tyres can stay as warm as possible too on a very cold track when using hards.

Even then, and to be honest, I wouldn't use soft tyres in project cars 2 even on a 0º or bellow (impossible I know, but you understand what I mean). Soft tyres in this game simply don't work as intended in my opinion. We will see how they behave in patch 4, but they will probably fare the same, so hard tyres will always be your option if you want your car to turn through corners. Hard tyres with very high downforce setting, closed brake ducts and very stiff suspension and anti-roll bars will heat the tyres enough in order to make the car trustworthy by the second lap already, even on cold tarmac racing.

Remember. Very cold tarmac?, hard tyres with a very stiff suspension setting, high downforce; sightly higher cold tyre pressures and very closed brake ducts. Hot tarmac?, soft suspension setting; low downforce; sightly more open air ducts and between 1'6-1-7 hot pressure BAR.

And as a personal piece of advice, which some may disagree but..., when you are running on tracks with many turns to the same side, it is important you pay attention to the tyre pressure on both sides of the car. For instance, if a track has many left turns, then your front and rear right side wheels will run on higher pressures than their left counterparts after four or five laps in a row. Balance this unwanted forthcoming situation in longer steams by using an asymmetrical COLD tyre pressure setting; in this case, starting with higher cold pressures on the right tyres, enough to compensate when you are running your fourth or five lap and onwards. You will find out the amount of extra bar you have to apply on the unbalanced side side by running five or six laps on practice or qualy, and then checking the telemetry. Left front wheel ended up with a hot pressure of 1'80 and the front right with 1'74?, then decide before starting the race whether to apply extra cold pressure of 0'6 BAR on the right, or reduce in cold pressure too 0'6 BAR on the left. Same story on the rear wheels, but in these ones the differences on eventual hot pressures ain't usually very brutal.

This last advice will grant you stability on straights and more balanced cornering to the track cornering side that is less taken in the track, even if the more unused tyres remain colder. A proper assymetrical tyre pressure setup will also benefit you on colder tarmac conditions.

This all will apply only to GT cars only on slick tyres and dry conditions whether cold or hot., never on factory cars or openwheel. GT cars on rain conditions on rain slicks tyres will always need a high downforce setting, increased height ride and cold tyre pressures, as well as a much softened spring setting and full open air ducts for the tyres to stay on their optimal operating temperature which is just about 45-60º only, in order words as low as possible. Otherwise prepare for almost non-existent grip after the third lap.

This all at least until soft tyres get fixed or some use at all, which i don't think is ever happening given the way more exciting strategies regarding tuning options to follow when using these hard tyres in this game, thanks to the track temp thingy and livetrack 3.0 epicness, when it works of course, and your setups properly save and are applied over sessions..; which should be the thing to blame for the issue you were experiencing. Very annoying issue indeed

 

[Scaff]

Hello, i don't know if it is a bug or not, but some cars ( especially the gt3 ) they have a strange physics. Sometimes it's like I do not understand what the car is about to do. Sometimes it has a strange behavior cornering. In general I think the gt have too much grip. The feeling is not relistic in my opinion.
Does anyone have the same feeling?

It's the feeling I have with the steering wheel. compared to assetto corsa I "feel" less the car

I've run the same car back to back in AC and PC2 and have to say I don't find a massive amount of difference between the two at all these days.

However that does require that you get the conditions as close as possible as you can in both, as the track conditions in both, tyre temp in both and weather conditions in PC2 all make quite a difference.

What wheel are you using and how do you have them set-up in both.

 

[ozwheels]

^It is all about the track temperatures, and trying to get your tyres up to optimum temperature.

First off forget about soft tyres unless track temp is 1º or 2ºC. Always go hards. Your goal temp on hards is between 90-110º

Second, always try to go low on tyre pressures even on cold tracks. 1'6-1'7 hot pressure bar will do even on cold track temps.

When you run on very hot track conditions, try to run soften both rear and front springs and dampering, as well as both anti-roll bars, specially on technical tracks taking corners all the time with few straights where the tyres can get colder. Also, given the very heated surface, reduce downforce and trust the grip your heated tyres and mechanical grip should offer. This will also grant you a tiny extra speed on straights. Then, with the brake ducts try to find a balance by checking the ambient temperatures, not the track temperatures. If they are kind cold compared to the track (let's say 10-25º ambient), then close the ducts a lot in order to maintain the tyres on higher temps. If it is a track with many and long straights, such as Road America, run a very closed air duct setting as well despite the ambient temp is too high.

On cold tarmac races, first off also go hard unless the track temp is 1 or 2º or so you know. What you have to do here in order to increase the tyre temperatures as you race is to increase the downforce, specially on the rear; stiffer springs and roll bars on both the front and the rear; increased cold tyre pressure but just a bit; very closed radiator setting and bordering on closed brake ducts too, so tyres can stay as warm as possible too on a very cold track when using hards.

Even then, and to be honest, I wouldn't use soft tyres in project cars 2 even on a 0º or bellow (impossible I know, but you understand what I mean). Soft tyres in this game simply don't work as intended in my opinion. We will see how they behave in patch 4, but they will probably fare the same, so hard tyres will always be your option if you want your car to turn through corners. Hard tyres with very high downforce setting, closed brake ducts and very stiff suspension and anti-roll bars will heat the tyres enough in order to make the car trustworthy by the second lap already, even on cold tarmac racing.

Remember. Very cold tarmac?, hard tyres with a very stiff suspension setting, high downforce; sightly higher cold tyre pressures and very closed brake ducts. Hot tarmac?, soft suspension setting; low downforce; sightly more open air ducts and between 1'6-1-7 hot pressure BAR.

And as a personal piece of advice, which some may disagree but..., when you are running on tracks with many turns to the same side, it is important you pay attention to the tyre pressure on both sides of the car. For instance, if a track has many left turns, then your front and rear right side wheels will run on higher pressures than their left counterparts after four or five laps in a row. Balance this unwanted forthcoming situation in longer steams by using an asymmetrical COLD tyre pressure setting; in this case, starting with higher cold pressures on the right tyres, enough to compensate when you are running your fourth or five lap and onwards. You will find out the amount of extra bar you have to apply on the unbalanced side side by running five or six laps on practice or qualy, and then checking the telemetry. Left front wheel ended up with a hot pressure of 1'80 and the front right with 1'74?, then decide before starting the race whether to apply extra cold pressure of 0'6 BAR on the right, or reduce in cold pressure too 0'6 BAR on the left. Same story on the rear wheels, but in these ones the differences on eventual hot pressures ain't usually very brutal.

This last advice will grant you stability on straights and more balanced cornering to the track cornering side that is less taken in the track, even if the more unused tyres remain colder. A proper assymetrical tyre pressure setup will also benefit you on colder tarmac conditions.

This all will apply only to GT cars only on slick tyres and dry conditions whether cold or hot., never on factory cars or openwheel. GT cars on rain conditions on rain slicks tyres will always need a high downforce setting, increased height ride and cold tyre pressures, as well as a much softened spring setting and full open air ducts for the tyres to stay on their optimal operating temperature which is just about 45-60º only, in order words as low as possible. Otherwise prepare for almost non-existent grip after the third lap.

This all at least until soft tyres get fixed or some use at all, which i don't think is ever happening given the way more exciting strategies regarding tuning options to follow when using these hard tyres in this game, thanks to the track temp thingy and livetrack 3.0 epicness, when it works of course, and your setups properly save and are applied over sessions..; which should be the thing to blame for the issue you were experiencing. Very annoying issue indeed

The softs are supposed to have their temperature range increased with the next patch. The current hot ceiling must be extremely low if the little burst of temperature from braking and corner entry is enough to ruin them by mid corner and exit.

 

[mattikake]

[sigh] here's a literal game-ruining bug for you - saving a pit strategy doesn't save/remember tyre pressures.

In the space of going from quali to race the game manages to forget the tyre pressures you set and picks some stupidly high default number that takes ages to change. I simply ran out of time changing the pressures for a wet/dry race, as I still had to set the starting fuel so I quit to save my licence rating. Another online championship season wasted.

It's pathetic. Everyone has seen this bug but if you have changing conditions you have no chance to sort it out in time. Why they never bothered to fix this easily fixable problem is beyond me.

 

[davidt33]

[sigh] here's a literal game-ruining bug for you - saving a pit strategy doesn't save/remember tyre pressures.

In the space of going from quali to race the game manages to forget the tyre pressures you set and picks some stupidly high default number that takes ages to change. I simply ran out of time changing the pressures for a wet/dry race, as I still had to set the starting fuel so I quit to save my licence rating. Another online championship season wasted.

It's pathetic. Everyone has seen this bug but if you have changing conditions you have no chance to sort it out in time. Why they never bothered to fix this easily fixable problem is beyond me.

That's tough man. You did everything right and saved for each accordingly but each time on rechecking the tyre pressures didn't stick.

 

[ozwheels]

[sigh] here's a literal game-ruining bug for you - saving a pit strategy doesn't save/remember tyre pressures.

In the space of going from quali to race the game manages to forget the tyre pressures you set and picks some stupidly high default number that takes ages to change. I simply ran out of time changing the pressures for a wet/dry race, as I still had to set the starting fuel so I quit to save my licence rating. Another online championship season wasted.

It's pathetic. Everyone has seen this bug but if you have changing conditions you have no chance to sort it out in time. Why they never bothered to fix this easily fixable problem is beyond me.

To get around it I always make a new pit strategy at the race ready screen and it will always have the correct pressures. Then you adjust fuel, damage and set tires to All to ensure they are changed. It’s not ideal but it works every time. That bug is pretty high on my wishlist of things to be fixed.

 

[Morgoth_666]

Finally got some time with this game again, had some fun testing the GT3 488 at Daytona, then did a half-hour race in the GT-86(which is a completely different car from the one in pCARS 1 but I suppose that's not really relevant). Everything went pretty well(no iffy penalties either, I did go more than 50% off in the esses after turn 1 when the AI squeezed me there and it threatened I should slow down but it went away immediately), but for whatever reason the race start wasn't right.

I didn't have the option(grayed out) to do anything other than a rolling start which is what I wanted anyway, and I selected the manual warmup lap. But when the race started it made us do a single file standing start(cars may have even been clipping into each other a little, probably the ones that were supposed to be in the nonexistent outside lane) which of course I wasn't quite ready for. Is this a problem with the Daytona roval or perhaps with timed races or is it just something that randomly happens?


Also, at the finish it told me there was a car in my pit box as I was coming in after the cooldown lap. There was room, but my crew guys were basically standing on top of the guys for another car(maybe a foot away from them). There should be more than enough space for 20 cars in the Daytona pit lane or almost anywhere, so that shouldn't ever happen. It didn't make sense in the first game and makes even less sense to keep it that way for the second(on a new track no less). I saw a car on its roof in the pit lane at the end on the replay but no idea how it got there or if it was even there when I was actually driving.

 

[Mr Tree]

My continious disconnects online keep me from online play I once again tried but the disconnects are awefull...

What can I do about it I checked and rechecked if I have a good internetconnection. 130mb/s downloaf and 2mb/s upload should be enough I'm connected by cable...

Ow yeah don't tell me to configure my router or anything I don't know how. If this is a requirement to play online SMS should have advertised that in order to play online one should be an IT'er...

I want to have a consistent online experience, when will this be possible?

Please help me I love this game but I'm done with single player I want to plat online!

Edit: I even deleted and reinstalled the game, still dc's everywhere...

 

[Napalm_LT]

My continious disconnects online keep me from online play I once again tried but the disconnects are awefull...

What can I do about it I checked and rechecked if I have a good internetconnection. 130mb/s downloaf and 2mb/s upload should be enough I'm connected by cable...

Ow yeah don't tell me to configure my router or anything I don't know how. If this is a requirement to play online SMS should have advertised that in order to play online one should be an IT'er...

I want to have a consistent online experience, when will this be possible?

Please help me I love this game but I'm done with single player I want to plat online!

Edit: I even deleted and reinstalled the game, still dc's everywhere...

I think it is not PC2, but yours equipment fault.
You should restart router first.
I used to have same problem with GT6, and for me helped 30/30/30 router reset.

 

[fernandito]

My continious disconnects online keep me from online play I once again tried but the disconnects are awefull...

What can I do about it I checked and rechecked if I have a good internetconnection. 130mb/s downloaf and 2mb/s upload should be enough I'm connected by cable...

Ow yeah don't tell me to configure my router or anything I don't know how. If this is a requirement to play online SMS should have advertised that in order to play online one should be an IT'er...

I want to have a consistent online experience, when will this be possible?

Please help me I love this game but I'm done with single player I want to plat online!

Edit: I even deleted and reinstalled the game, still dc's everywhere...

Don't hate on me man, but you should indeed check your router configuration.

Just do these two things and see whether your connection improves or not. Enter your router through your gateway address (just google this man. It is so easy to do), and once inside check whether its internal firewall is on. Turn it off completely.

Second, look around for antivirus program or any other software that might give project cars trouble, that in case you are on pc.

If you are on pc please posts your specs, operative system, soiftware stuff you have installed and other peripherals like wheels. We can't be of much help if you don't post that. Also, your connection is dsl or fibre?, your router brand?

 

[mattikake]

My continious disconnects online keep me from online play I once again tried but the disconnects are awefull...

What can I do about it I checked and rechecked if I have a good internetconnection. 130mb/s downloaf and 2mb/s upload should be enough I'm connected by cable...

Ow yeah don't tell me to configure my router or anything I don't know how. If this is a requirement to play online SMS should have advertised that in order to play online one should be an IT'er...

I want to have a consistent online experience, when will this be possible?

Please help me I love this game but I'm done with single player I want to plat online!

Edit: I even deleted and reinstalled the game, still dc's everywhere...

2Mbs upload is pretty poor but it's not the overall speed that matters but the consistency. It only needs a short pause of inactivity to dc you. First make sure you are using a wired connection - too much WiFi interference is unnoticeable for web browsing but will kill a game. Trying to sort out WiFi interference will prove too technical for you (unless you know how to find things like better channels and how to config that) so just go cabled.

 

[Mr Tree]

The frustration in the messages below is not mrant to be directed at the people I qoute but rather my frustration with the damn game and the ****** online environment we've gotten in pC2.

I think it is not PC2, but yours equipment fault.
You should restart router first.
I used to have same problem with GT6, and for me helped 30/30/30 router reset.

Yes yes it's not pC but my hardware, that's why noy a single game has this issue but pC2...
I have a router that is provided by my isp (so I have no idea how to acces settings or anything)

I haven't yet restarted my router so that is still an option thank you...

Don't hate on me man, but you should indeed check your router configuration.

Just do these two things and see whether your connection improves or not. Enter your router through your gateway address (just google this man. It is so easy to do), and once inside check whether its internal firewall is on. Turn it off completely.

Second, look around for antivirus program or any other software that might give project cars trouble, that in case you are on pc.

If you are on pc please posts your specs, operative system, soiftware stuff you have installed and other peripherals like wheels. We can't be of much help if you don't post that. Also, your connection is dsl or fibre?, your router brand?

I'll have to check this and send the invoice to SMS... My time is money I payed for a game that should be playable out of the box again I shouldn't be messing with those things it should work... Seems like I have no choice but to find out what this jibber jabber means but I'm furious about this, it's completly outside of my intrest range and thus a useless skill I don't want to spend time one nor should I if SMS was able to make a descent online experience...

2Mbs upload is pretty poor but it's not the overall speed that matters but the consistency. It only needs a short pause of inactivity to dc you. First make sure you are using a wired connection - too much WiFi interference is unnoticeable for web browsing but will kill a game. Trying to sort out WiFi interference will prove too technical for you (unless you know how to find things like better channels and how to config that) so just go cabled.

I'm on cable, I don't get where the low uploadspeeds comes from as I can reach triple that via wifi but at the cost of interference and lower downloadspeeds.
If you know more what can cause that please do help.

Edit:
@mattikake do you have a way to check consistency of the signal on ps4?
As I do not know how I haven't yet checked it...

 

[John Wells]

You may have problem with your service provider, MrTree, fault might be with them.

 

[Mr Tree]

You may have problem with your service provider, MrTree, fault might be with them.

I'm going to try the things listed above and if that fails I was planning on contacting my isp

Still thanks for all the help from everyone.

 

[fernandito]

You may have problem with your service provider, MrTree, fault might be with them.

yeah. That should indeed be the first thing to check.

Mr Tree, could you please open your windows console and enter this?: "ping -n 120 www.google.com", without the " marks.

Please post a pic of the results you get on the console screen after those two minutes of packet checking. See it as some sort of stability/quality check of your ISP

 

[Mr Tree]

yeah. That should indeed be the first thing to check.

Mr Tree, could you please open your windows console and enter this?: "ping -n 120 www.google.com", without the " marks.

Please post a pic of the results you get on the console screen after those two minutes of packet checking. See it as some sort of stability/quality check of your ISP

I'm at work currently I'll be home in about 2h give me 2h30minutes and I'll defenitly do that! Again thanks for the help!

 

[Johnnypenso]

I have an issue on pc. Perhaps it's been discussed here but I haven't read all 39 pages. Once in a while when I go into the tuning setup menu, the mouse pointer goes wacky. I should have recorded it but I haven't set up recording on my new system yet, but what happens is, when you hold the mouse pointer over something, it and other things flash on and off rapidly, as in several times a second. If you press the left mouse button sometimes you open the window you want and sometimes another one. It makes it impossible to make any changes at all like adjusting your fuel load from qualifying to race, tuning etc. Thing is, it just goes away on it's own if you quit from the track and back to the main menu, or go into a race online and finish the race, come back and it's back to normal. I've never had this occur anywhere else in any game or anywhere in Windows, it's a PCars2 specific issue. It has happened 3 or 4 times now in 8-10 sessions I'd guess.

Thoughts?

2Mbs upload is pretty poor but it's not the overall speed that matters but the consistency. It only needs a short pause of inactivity to dc you. First make sure you are using a wired connection - too much WiFi interference is unnoticeable for web browsing but will kill a game. Trying to sort out WiFi interference will prove too technical for you (unless you know how to find things like better channels and how to config that) so just go cabled.

I can say for certain this is true, at least in my case. I'm still on DSL and my upload speed is less than 1Mb/s and I have no trouble playing on line on pc and never had any issues on PSN either. I did when I first got into online racing in GT5 but someone advised me to go direct with a CAT6 cable instead of wifi and it's been smooth sailing ever since. I have the most bulletproof consistent ISP since the dawn of time (MNSI)

 

[Mr Tree]

yeah. That should indeed be the first thing to check.

Mr Tree, could you please open your windows console and enter this?: "ping -n 120 www.google.com", without the " marks.

Please post a pic of the results you get on the console screen after those two minutes of packet checking. See it as some sort of stability/quality check of your ISP

results:

Pinging www.google.com [2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a] with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=21ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=21ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=19ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=33ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=32ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=22ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=19ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=18ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=33ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=30ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=17ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=30ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=20ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=31ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=56ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=30ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=29ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=30ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=33ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=17ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=62ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=35ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=29ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=32ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=32ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=20ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=20ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=19ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=31ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=34ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=35ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=37ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=22ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=39ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=27ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=29ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=24ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=27ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=27ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=31ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=66ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=107ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=41ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=74ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=31ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=34ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=18ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=22ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=20ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=32ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=19ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=31ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=19ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=21ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=37ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a: time=28ms
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Request timed out.
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Ping statistics for 2a00:1450:4013:c00::6a:
Packets: Sent = 120, Received = 119, Lost = 1 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 17ms, Maximum = 107ms, Average = 31ms

 

[davidt33]

I think it is not PC2, but yours equipment fault.
You should restart router first.
I used to have same problem with GT6, and for me helped 30/30/30 router reset.

One shouldn't have to restart or reset one's router before playing a game. Especially every time before playing.

.....Just do these two things and see whether your connection improves or not. Enter your router through your gateway address (just google this man. It is so easy to do), and once inside check whether its internal firewall is on. Turn it off completely.

Unless you had purchased your own personal router most Internet Service Providers don't allow you to enter and reconfigure their router provided settings far more provide you with the log-in details for which you need to be able to access the router settings.

I was thinking of doing so myself but when enquiring for the log-in details they told me they would not be able to give or let me so do. Company policy. They said they would configure what I want if I requested though. This they would be able to do from their end.

I was thinking of assigning a DMZ for the router/PS4 communication which they said they would do for me. Haven't decided to have it done yet though as still considering. What they had me do in the meantime was change the MTU on the PS4 from "Automatic" to "1492" which I have done. This has helped improve the download/upload speeds as evidenced following "Test Internet Connection speed" tests from the PS4 itself and kept it more consistent.

 

[fernandito]

results:

Not bad for a dsl connection, although it has the expected dsl spike after some seconds, with packet loss included.

Packet loss is what makes you disconnect suddenly when online man.

Is that result with the firewall off then?, if so, then your dsl works as expected. Neither good nor very bad. You will continue to have spikes every 30-40 seconds. If it wasn't, then do another ping check just to see if there is any packet loss now.

And with 2mb/s speed I'd recommend you to act as a client only, joining lobbies. You should be kinda fine as long as advance on your connection fixing little further.

Don't forward any port for gaming as client, unless necessary for p2p programs or communication if you see the router don't allow all traffic for them. If they do connect fine too, do not forward any port. Need to know your router model to check whether or not it has harsh NAT policy, but today's modern devices no longer have then, mostly, unless it is an enterprise model

 

[Mr Tree]

Not bad for a dsl connection, although it has the expected dsl spike after some seconds, with packet loss included.

Packet loss is what makes you disconnect suddenly when online man.

Is that result with the firewall off then?, if so, then your dsl works as expected. Neither good nor very bad. You will continue to have spikes every 30-40 seconds. If it wasn't, then do another ping check just to see if there is any packet loss now.

And with 2mb/s speed I'd recommend you to act as a client only, joining lobbies. You should be kinda fine as long as advance on your connection fixing little further

No more packetloss tried 4 times spikes but generally around 60 prior to reset and opening firewall it would be around a 100


I'll give an update after tonight on the (lack of) disconnects

 

[fernandito]

I forgot too. By no means a magical solution for disconnections or general connection instability, but features like uPnP which should be in your router menu too is always one of the first things to disable, even under harsh NAT factory configuration. It usually makes your connection sightly noticeably less stable under some circumstances, such as gaming. Every packet that is send from router to router through the net has tagged to it lotta extra bits thatare actually trash, and not allowing most of that crap but the bits that actually matter be prioritized or forwarded by your device can pay off in sightly latency reduction. uPnP can't deal with this "issue", so better off disabled in most cases, specially because it can open other ports that aren't really requiered, increasing traffic and thus latency. It also opens and closes ports at random depending some microsoft services on the background, making things even worse sometimes.

Not opening ports as client in my experience has always been better for lag, regardles harsh or not harsh nat policies, impossible to fix regardless you forward ports or activate uPnP.

 

[mattikake]

Sounds like you have something hogging your bandwidth and causing lag spikes.

You should get something much more consistent like this:-

Pinging www.google.co.uk [2a00:1450:4005:800::2003] with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 2a00:1450:4005:800::2003: time=29ms
Reply from 2a00:1450:4005:800::2003: time=38ms
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Ping statistics for 2a00:1450:4005:800::2003:
Packets: Sent = 37, Received = 37, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 24ms, Maximum = 59ms, Average = 28ms

etc.

And this is with a Sat box, 2 phones and 2 PCs connected. What else is connected at the same time?

If nothing, it could be the load on your local switch or ISP is bottlenecking. It's worth trying this ping test at different times of the day. If the switch is being overloaded it could be your neighbours... QoS needs looking at. I would be talking to my ISP.

Also try this from other devices.

 

[Peppe_Tod]

However, I'm talking mainly about the lack of acceleration coming out of the corners. I mean this when I say that the car has too much grip. When you are done steering and push down the gas pedal it seems like the car has no more then 50 hp.

 

[Bealdor]

However, I'm talking mainly about the lack of acceleration coming out of the corners. I mean this when I say that the car has too much grip. When you are done steering and push down the gas pedal it seems like the car has no more then 50 hp.

What do you expect to feel on your steering wheel while accelerating in a RWD car with TC, that is built to be drivable for amateurs?