Project CARS 2 General Discussion Thread - Out Now on PS4/XB1/PC

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Tried demo on ps4 pro and it drives so wierd with controller. Still has that project cars handling feeling. Its so wrong at least with controller. And after GTS this game looks so bad and low quality everywhere. Cockpits looks like low res and tracks not better too.
I mean who would wanna play it on ps4 pro after GTS.
Perhaps trying a wheel could make it better? Really? I'm not a fanboy by any means. Pcars 1, I'll reserve my comments. This game is a far superior game to GT Sport. Played every GT series since inception. If 8 guys made AC, they should all hang their heads at Polyphony. Sorry but it's the truth. This game has many shortcomings,it's not that bad!

He's clearly settled on gt sport and not concerned with playing actual racing simulators. There's no convincing that crowd.
 
Hi all, got a couple of questions I'd like to ask regarding purchasing PC gotye & or PC2.
XB1X, pad user.

Seeing as my PS3 blu ray died I've got a few old disks to trade in (about £10) so do I go for,

PC standard £2
PC gotye £8
PC2 £20
All prices after trade in.
Can get PC2 new for £25 from another shop.

There is a couple of things that I'm considering though, I would prefer the digital version of all but considering the MS store pricing I'm going to have to get dressed :( :).

Also the last time I played PC (apart from the PC2 demo) was when it 1st came out on the PS4 (it handled like crap) so what I would like to know is, is PC gotye in a better state than PC2 currently, Should I get both or should I skip 1 & just get 2?

Your advice is much appreciated & thanks in advance :cheers:

Note: I have found my sweet spot with a pad on PC2 demo & find all 3 cars to be very controllable, all aids off, abs low.

Edit: does the original PC look / run any better on the 1X, any 1X owners notice anything different?
 
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Hi all, got a couple of questions I'd like to ask regarding purchasing PC gotye & or PC2.
XB1X, pad user.

Seeing as my PS3 blu ray died I've got a few old disks to trade in (about £10) so do I go for,

PC standard £2
PC gotye £8
PC2 £20
All prices after trade in.
Can get PC2 new for £25 from another shop.

There is a couple of things that I'm considering though, I would prefer the digital version of all but considering the MS store pricing I'm going to have to get dressed :( :).

Also the last time I played PC (apart from the PC2 demo) was when it 1st came out on the PS4 (it handled like crap) so what I would like to know is, is PC gotye in a better state than PC2 currently, Should I get both or should I skip 1 & just get 2?

Your advice is much appreciated & thanks in advance :cheers:

Note: I have found my sweet spot with a pad on PC2 demo & find all 3 cars to be very controllable, all aids off, abs low.

Edit: does the original PC look / run any better on the 1X, any 1X owners notice anything different?

I can't answer many of your questions, but I don't mind starting the responses. I am told by friends who use controllers that PC2 is much easier to play than PC1 (on a wheel I find it harder, but in a good way - more realistic). The only advantages with the earlier game are better audio (the sounds are still good, but they got the levels wrong in PC2 so chat is deafening and the game sounds a bit lifeless) the other advantage is the maximum grid sizes are bigger in PC1 (45 instead of 32 at some tracks). I would err on the side of PC2 as it is said to be easier with a controller.
 
So, I'm watching The Grand Tour right now on Amazon and Jeremy's reviewing the new Ford GT. I'm curious if anyone else would like to see the different car "modes" simulated when the OEM tune is enabled. For example, the 2017 Ford GT has normal, wet, sport, track, and V-Max. It would be very easy to access the different modes in the ICM menu. Obviously, this could also be applied on cars such as the Lamborghini Aventador, McLaren P1, and Porsche 918.

That would be super cool!
It would have been cool and we briefly discussed it a year ago but it would have been a decent chunk of work (unloading/loading physics) and probably only 5% or less of the players would have appreciated it. Those are the kind of cost-benefit decisions that go on behind-the-scenes daily in games development.
 
Hi all, got a couple of questions I'd like to ask regarding purchasing PC gotye & or PC2.
XB1X, pad user.

Seeing as my PS3 blu ray died I've got a few old disks to trade in (about £10) so do I go for,

PC standard £2
PC gotye £8
PC2 £20
All prices after trade in.
Can get PC2 new for £25 from another shop.

There is a couple of things that I'm considering though, I would prefer the digital version of all but considering the MS store pricing I'm going to have to get dressed :( :).

Also the last time I played PC (apart from the PC2 demo) was when it 1st came out on the PS4 (it handled like crap) so what I would like to know is, is PC gotye in a better state than PC2 currently, Should I get both or should I skip 1 & just get 2?

Your advice is much appreciated & thanks in advance :cheers:

Note: I have found my sweet spot with a pad on PC2 demo & find all 3 cars to be very controllable, all aids off, abs low.

Edit: does the original PC look / run any better on the 1X, any 1X owners notice anything different?

You should do this: should I skip 1 & just get 2?

The jump from PC1 to PC2 won't feel that great, many cars and tracks cross over on both games (I'd guess 80%+ similar content), so just go for PC2 - it's only getting better and better anyway, and now very playable vs. 3 months ago.
 
Can you not select people’s setups from community events like you can in normal TT?

Edit: How do you select people’s setups from TT? I’ve pressed a lot of buttons and nothing will work.

@KrypticTMG @Friday_GTRP

Hey OZ,

Didn't got any notification yesterday, in community event you can load the ghost, you receive their setup automatically.
Only top 30 has setup saved.

Hope this helps
 
Hey OZ,

Didn't got any notification yesterday, in community event you can load the ghost, you receive their setup automatically.
Only top 30 has setup saved.

Hope this helps
Ah that explains it. I saw the options to add a ghost, but I didn’t know that includes the setup. Thanks.
 
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First I was unsure because Pcars 1 costed me a lot of nerves but in the end I really enjoy the game and look forward to the DLC.
Its just great if you can always chose between Pcars 2, Forza and GT Sports :sly:
 
Picked up PC2 on PS4 today for my birthday and am absolutely loving it so far.

Was quite disappointed with the XB1 demo as the cars handled just like PC1 but with a tweaked controller setup on PS4 all the cars I’ve driven so far (ranging from Mc720S to R390/GT-ONE @ R8LMP) have all handled amazingly.

Really loving the car and track list as well and the ability to race any car on any track is amazing, and surprising how well the GTE cars handle off road.
 
Project cars 2 is ok on a controller I used to play it on one. I personally think PC2 was way harder to play on controller than PC1. The controls do need some tweaking to make it enjoyable but it is still hard to play. The main issue on controller is braking it is so hard to not lock the brakes on a controller because the small amount of travel on the triggers and because the braking in that game is just terrible. I even have a wheel now and still hate it because FFB sucks and the game is so buggy. But if it goes on sale it is worth the money because the amount of content.

What wheel do you have and how is it set-up?

I have no issue with braking or the FFB on PC2 at all using a T300 and T3PA Pro's; certainly in comparison to GTS is far better in both areas. In particular braking as you can at the very least calibrate the pedals on PC2.
 
What wheel do you have and how is it set-up?

I have no issue with braking or the FFB on PC2 at all using a T300 and T3PA Pro's; certainly in comparison to GTS is far better in both areas. In particular braking as you can at the very least calibrate the pedals on PC2.
Yeah I have the same setup. And I don't struggle that much on the wheel but it is much harder on controller, very easy to lock up the brakes even with ABS it is very sensitive I need to play around with the settings more.
 
Yeah I have the same setup. And I don't struggle that much on the wheel but it is much harder on controller, very easy to lock up the brakes even with ABS it is very sensitive I need to play around with the settings more.
I now run an upgraded brake mod for the T3PA Pro's which has improved the pedal feel for braking quite a bit.



However good calibration makes a big difference, keeping in mind that in reality racing brakes require a lot of pressure to fully depress and get to the point of lock-up.
 
Yeah I have the same setup. And I don't struggle that much on the wheel but it is much harder on controller, very easy to lock up the brakes even with ABS it is very sensitive I need to play around with the settings more.
I had the same issue when I moved to Assetto Corsa 3 years ago. In my case it was because of the bad habits I learned in GT5 and GT6 where you can simply floor the brake pedal with ABS on and it acts as both ABS and stability control, allowing you to brake while turning easily. Unfortunately both real life and more nuanced racing sims aren't like that and braking is as much of a skill as cornering and perhaps the most important skill to learn because the entire corner, from entry to apex to exit, is set up by braking. I overcame it by learning how to brake properly through lots of practice, using moderate brake pressure when needed and really listening to the tires to hear what was happening. Every car is different. You can't do in an E30 BMW what you can do in a modern GT3 car, for example, so you have to practice and learn the different habits of the various cars and how to use the brakes to your advantage, to both slow the car down and help it rotate. Braking downhill is not the same as braking uphill, braking over a crest is not the same as braking through a dip, braking at high speed is not the same as braking at low speed etc.

Use the tools available to you as well. In PC2 you can adjust brake pressure and that should help moderate braking power. If you keep at it you'll figure it out and it'll open your eyes to just how truly deep the level of simulation is.
 
With Brake Sensitivity set to 45* and ABS on Low, in many cars I can brake with the L2 trigger fully depressed and modulating the brakes isn't very hard. It's barely more difficult than or different from Enthusia, which had very effective ABS for straight-line braking but would lock the brakes once you began to rotate. PCARS2 is similar, allowing me to lock the brakes somewhat to adjust my line when drifting or on the edge of oversteer, which I like. 👍

I'm one who would prefer not to use ABS if I can help it, but I see no point in fighting with the minimal feedback and travel of an analog trigger if ABS-off braking is difficult or bothersome. I find it just depends on the game, and most games don't make it worthwhile on a controller.

With my steering settings in PCARS2 I can even straighten out a car that begins to rotate under braking, only making for a bit of a wobbly corner entry sometimes. You just gotta watch out when passing over a crest, or some water on the track, etc. :)

* -- For some people, the misnomer of "Sensitivity" might be an issue. It actually determines the linearity of the trigger axis, and if you try for less-sensitive braking by lowering the slider, you end up making it more difficult to modulate the brakes in the 50-100% range.
 
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I now run an upgraded brake mod for the T3PA Pro's which has improved the pedal feel for braking quite a bit.



However good calibration makes a big difference, keeping in mind that in reality racing brakes require a lot of pressure to fully depress and get to the point of lock-up.

Cool, just ordered the set of three. Been contemplating a load cell, but these look pretty sweet. Priced well enough to try 'em out. Thanks for the heads up.
 
I am a very happy person. I finally got my Thrustmaster TX1 and am able to fully enjoy PCars 2. It's so much better with a wheel then a pad.
My only complaint is that the cars are too quiet in interior view! No matter what I have to settings on with my TV, sound system, or even the in game audio, the interior cam is so quiet regardless of the car. 3rd person is deafening, but every other camera angle is quiet. Still fiddling with that though.

The game is so much fun! Career is a little 'eh' to me, but i much more enjoy doing hot laps anyway.
 
I think this was brought up before but I'm not sure. If you set qualifying or practice before a race to have rain, but the race is set to dry, will the live track 3.0 continue to work in the background so the race has a wet road but no rain so a dry line will form quickly?

I can't test right now because I'm installing the new patch. Imagine qualifying is set for 11:00 with rain and the session is 10 minutes with x5 time so it takes up 50 in-game minutes. Race is set to start at 12:00 with two weather slots, overcast - clear. Will the race start with a wet track?
 
So I just got this the other day... but what is with the clutch implementation? It seems even with full damage, mechanical failures, and auto clutch off, assists set to authentic etc.... you don't need the clutch to shift in h-pattern cars. Don't even need to rev match. It seems smoother if you do.. but I was expecting grinds and transmission failures. Tried many cars...

Am I missing something? What gives?
 
From what I've seen the clutch is only for rev matching. You can shift completely without it but depending on the car you may have problems with instability. It seems like there should be some sort of penalty for being way too rough on it but as far as I know it's just down to whether you can maintain control or not. If I had to completely guess, I might assume it was an overly aggressive reaction to the glitchy way it worked in pCARS 1 where a seemingly perfect shift would sometimes act like a missed shift and not shift or end up in neutral or shift two or three times at once. But who knows, it might have just been because people testing the game whined about it.

Sure, in a real [road] car you CAN shift without the clutch but it's not particularly good for it even when shifting up, and when downshifting you can usually only get away with it if the revs are quite low.

Fingers crossed they'll do something about it someday, but not holding my breath.
 
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