Project CARS 2 General Discussion Thread - Out Now on PS4/XB1/PC

  • Thread starter jake2013guy
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Welp patch 5 has been interesting so far. GT3 diff physics have certainly changed although I’m not fully aboard the super low preload settings. This tends to lead to nasty surprises as engine rpm levels off.

GT3 tires also appear to be cooling down much faster on straights than previously. This leads to a bigger gap between the hard and soft tires workable temperatures as the hards can’t hold the heat on coolish tracks anymore, but softs still overheat enough to make them unpleasant to drive on. A medium tire would be nice in that scenario. Some tracks and cars will certainly be affected more than others.
 
I just want a list of patch notes to peruse. I enjoy going through them and simulating a scenario to show each thing.
 
Thanks buddy, but what about this:

These notes are noticably smaller than previous update notes. We had to refrain from listing every single fix as they were causing massive delays with certification. So keeping the notes smaller allowed us to push the update out for you all much quicker.

Might need one of those Undocumented Changes threads like they do for GTSport.
 
Brake mod installed, time for some testing :)
20180412_165123.jpg

Hopefully the kids won't notice I cut their foam ball in half :(
Bloody bright green, why do kids toys have to be bright colours!!
 
Ok, I need a little help understanding this FFB stuff because no matter what settings I choose it still feels kinda off. It either shakes, rattles & tries to pull me all over the place or does nothing, I can't find a happy medium.

As I understand it (correct me if I'm wrong please)
Gain = how strong the FFB is, I have this on 50.

Volume = just makes my wheel harder to turn at the cost of road feel? I have this on 25.

Tone = 0 more road/curb feel or 100 more tyre slip feel. I have this on 75 because I want to feel when my tyres are slipping.

FX = to me this just feels the same as gain so I've kept it half way at 50.

Is this correct or have I misunderstood all this

Regarding the 3 flavours, for some reason immersive feels the strongest out the lot when I presumed raw was supposed to be.

I am a little :confused:
 
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Ok, I need a little help understanding this FFB stuff because no matter what settings I choose it still feels kinda off.

As I understand it (correct me if I'm wrong please)
Gain = how strong the FFB is, I have this on 50.

Volume = just makes my wheel harder to turn, I have this on 25.

Tone = 0 more road/curb feel. 100 more tyre slip feel. I have this on 75 because I want to feel when my tyres are slipping.

FX = to me this just feels the same as gain so I've kept it half way at 50.

Regarding the 3 flavours, for some reason immersive feels the strongest out the lot when I presumed raw was supposed to be.

I am a little :confused:
Raw is not necessarily the strongest, in fact as it has no canned effects its likely to be the opposite way around. Which is why its recommended for medium to high torque wheels.

BTW FX is gain for the Tone setting.

With my T300 I run Raw 100/30/50/30 and that suits me well and is remarkable close to AC with a lot of cars.
 
Thank you @Scaff.

I will try your settings to see how they feel as I'm only after a nice medium feeling across the board, a little bumping here, a little vibration there & a little tugging/resistance when turning & accelerating.

But I might lower the gain as I'm sure 100 tried to snap my arms off.
 
After this latest patch I noticed my Indy oval setup had become way too loose through the turns. So I took a look at the official PC2 forum to see if anyone else was having issues with their setups post patch. Apparently deleting your setup then reapplying it fixes this issue. I did just that and it seems to have worked. I would backup setups by whatever means you have before doing this.
 
With some GT3 cars receiving changes i took a few to the track to see the difference in tires.

All cars where tested under the same conditions


Track - Circuit Of The Americas Gp
Session Start Time - 12:00
Time Progression - real time
Season - summer
Weather - Clear

Pad user
Driving Assists - Authentic
Automatic gearbox


GT 3 Cars

- Ferrari 488 GT3 -

Hard Tires 2:11.366
Soft Tires 2:13.094

Hard Tires just felt better after two laps


- Mclaren 650s GT3 -

Hard Tires 2:12.723
Soft Tires 2:12.177

Hard Tires felt better after two laps


- Porsche 911 GT R -

Hard Tires 2:14.036
Soft Tires 2:13.137

Car drives better on soft tires


- Mercedes - AMG GT3 -

Hard Tires 2:11.020
Soft Tires 2:11.734

Hard Tires felt better after two laps


- Cadillac ATS-V.R GT3 -

Hard Tires 2:12.634
Soft Tires 2:12.007

Great car on both tires


- Bentley Continental GT3 -

Hard Tires 2:11.100
Soft Tires 2:12.260

Hard tires is the way to go


Overall i did 2 laps with each car and the hard tires just felt better after two laps

Softs in the other hand just made the car feel tighter and heaver
 
I have a question? Anyone know what the time time interval between weather slots is?

If i set 2 weather slots "Clear to Rain" in real time how long does it take to go from clear to rain?
 
I have a question? Anyone know what the time time interval between weather slots is?

If i set 2 weather slots "Clear to Rain" in real time how long does it take to go from clear to rain?
Time slots are 1 hour in real-time. However, you need to bear in mind that there isn't an abrupt change, the rain will come in over the course of a few minutes, in different parts of the circuit too, initially. As such, if you run in real time and have your race session set to 2 hours, you can expect the rain to probably start appearing in small spatters somewhere around the 40-50 minute mark. Depending on the car, tyres, temps etc, you might have to come in for wets quite soon, you might be able to stay out even when the track appears shiny wet :)

Weather acceleration will obviously reduce those times. Ergo, 2x acceleration will mean each weather slot is 30 minutes.

As an example, we ran a 1h05 minute race on Monday in Light Cloud -> Light Rain conditions, with the weather set on sync to race. The rain first started appearing as spots on the windscreen at the 45-50 minutes remaining mark. By 40-45 minutes it was raining around the whole circuit.

EDIT : Ninja'd
 
This may be an old question but it's been bugging me since I've played the game again, how come the majority of the cars in this game can get nowhere near their top speeds? Granted I know there aren't too many super long straights but I'm finding a lot of cars that say top speed between 200-225 run out of steam around 180-190...why?
 
This may be an old question but it's been bugging me since I've played the game again, how come the majority of the cars in this game can get nowhere near their top speeds? Granted I know there aren't too many super long straights but I'm finding a lot of cars that say top speed between 200-225 run out of steam around 180-190...why?
Setup most likely, combined with altitude.

The setups provided for every car are designed to be a compromise to get the car around most tracks without too much difficulty, in keeping with the type of car they are. As such, the default setups will often be compromised with respect to absolute top speed.

Altitude will also play its part, with higher altitude circuits (or even circuits that gain a lot of altitude, ala Bathust) having a greater negative effect on naturally aspirated cars. Turbo cars tend to be minimally affected by that drop in air pressure.

Drop the downforce, drop the ride height, stiffen up the suspension, pick a track with a decent straight and also near sea-level, get the tyres up to normal working pressure and see if you can get closer to the correct speeds that way :)
 
Setup most likely, combined with altitude.

The setups provided for every car are designed to be a compromise to get the car around most tracks without too much difficulty, in keeping with the type of car they are. As such, the default setups will often be compromised with respect to absolute top speed.

Altitude will also play its part, with higher altitude circuits (or even circuits that gain a lot of altitude, ala Bathust) having a greater negative effect on naturally aspirated cars. Turbo cars tend to be minimally affected by that drop in air pressure.

Drop the downforce, drop the ride height, stiffen up the suspension, pick a track with a decent straight and also near sea-level, get the tyres up to normal working pressure and see if you can get closer to the correct speeds that way :)

One thing I'd add, if the car will allow it - close up the brake ducts & radiator as much as you dare to reduce drag even more.
 
One thing I'd add, if the car will allow it - close up the brake ducts & radiator as much as you dare to reduce drag even more.

If you've got damage turned off can you just close them as much as you're allowed to since there's no risk of running hot?
 
Setup most likely, combined with altitude.

The setups provided for every car are designed to be a compromise to get the car around most tracks without too much difficulty, in keeping with the type of car they are. As such, the default setups will often be compromised with respect to absolute top speed.

Altitude will also play its part, with higher altitude circuits (or even circuits that gain a lot of altitude, ala Bathust) having a greater negative effect on naturally aspirated cars. Turbo cars tend to be minimally affected by that drop in air pressure.

Drop the downforce, drop the ride height, stiffen up the suspension, pick a track with a decent straight and also near sea-level, get the tyres up to normal working pressure and see if you can get closer to the correct speeds that way :)
Thank you did, I did not realize all of that came into play. Looks like I have more playing and tinkering to do.:cheers:
 
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