Project CARS 2 General Discussion Thread - Out Now on PS4/XB1/PC

  • Thread starter jake2013guy
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Sorry for taking so long getting back to this but guys, just use the Stable setup for the Formula C and lower brake balance from 60 to 52. I found 52 let me push on the brakes as hard as I wanted without coming close to locking up while 53 or 54 I was still locking up sometimes. I haven't gone through the setup to see exactly what's changed from the Loose setup but c'mon all of your suggestions were crap compared to what it did. We gotta see what it changes to know what makes it so stable.
 
DesertPenguin
Sorry for taking so long getting back to this but guys, just use the Stable setup for the Formula C and lower brake balance from 60 to 52. I found 52 let me push on the brakes as hard as I wanted without coming close to locking up while 53 or 54 I was still locking up sometimes. I haven't gone through the setup to see exactly what's changed from the Loose setup but c'mon all of your suggestions were crap compared to what it did. We gotta see what it changes to know what makes it so stable.
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It's usually engine braking, downforce, final drive and brake bias that makes the stable setups more.. stable. At least that's what I've found when comparing various cars. Makes a big difference.
 
I always used the loose setups until the last update. Lately it seems the stable setups just feel better with my wheel. Did something change in regards to SMS setups?
 
About the Lotus Type 56 is this a fan car? sounds like it, But also sounds like a hybrid which would be impossible since the car is from 1968. Pretty fun car to drive. :D
 
AndreasR
Anybody knows of the possibility to change brake balance and increase or decrease stabilisers while in an lobby with no tuning setting?
Click to expand...
If the car supports it then yes, you can change the brake bias via the ICM (InCar Management). I haven't recently checked the front/rear ARBs via the same method though, or traction control level.

EDIT : Ninja'd!
 
Brake Bias and Antiroll Bar settings can be changed on the fly if your car allows it (e.g. GT3 cars allow brake balance change, V8SC allows Brake Balance and Front / Rear ARB's to be changed while driving, just like real life). This is regardless of whether or not tuning has been disabled for that lobby.
 
micmansour
Brake Bias and Antiroll Bar settings can be changed on the fly if your car allows it (e.g. GT3 cars allow brake balance change, V8SC allows Brake Balance and Front / Rear ARB's to be changed while driving, just like real life). This is regardless of whether or not tuning has been disabled for that lobby.
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Does that influence a car so much that it will go 2 or 3 sec faster? Or is it worth to spent some time testing different settings?
By the way I doubt that you can change ARB settings while driving in reality.

We want to make a lobby for racing without tunes because we don´t want to spent time on fiddeling with setups but just hop in and drive.
 
So today I decided to enhance my PCars2 experience by picking up a TMX for £100 (not the pro unfortunately) need to get used to it 1st before I invest in the t3pa peddles & shifter.

While I'm quite happy with using a controller for a quick blast, once the family has gone to the land of nod I can get my full gear out for a proper session.

However, I needed something to set up all my gear on, so I got about searching the house/garage for crap I don't use/need anymore & came across an old Black & Decker work bench + some off-cuts of MDF.

A little measuring here & a little cutting there & 30 mins later I've possibly made the best crap heap cockpit that cost me nout.

Take a look at this engineering marvel :)

20180408_232423.jpg
 
AndreasR
Does that influence a car so much that it will go 2 or 3 sec faster? Or is it worth to spent some time testing different settings?
By the way I doubt that you can change ARB settings while driving in reality.

We want to make a lobby for racing without tunes because we don´t want to spent time on fiddeling with setups but just hop in and drive.
Click to expand...

Watch a V8SC race and you'll see them adjust ARB while driving, usually as the fuel level changes. It's more for stability than speed. If any gains, it'd be few tenths only
 
This is on Xbox One X. I've had the game do the freeze up thing before where the audio sticks and just repeats and if the Xbox home button doesn't get you out of it I've ejected the disc, restarted the console and it usually fixes it. I've got that about a half a dozen times since the game came out. I think we've all seen it do that at least once.

Today though was something different. It locked up, I did the home button then quit and tried to relaunch. But I got the error message that Project Cars took too long to launch. I did this two times in a row. Did the hard console restart but again the game took too long to launch. Second restart and this time the game launched. Got into a race and the audio locked up again but the game video kept going. I was racing around with the audio frozen in a loop. Stopped it again, hard restart again, launched same race again but this time the race finished. However the audio locked up again on the menu screen.

It's never did this before for this many times in a row. I doubled checked other games to make sure it wasn't the console. Assetto Corsa and F1 2017 worked perfectly. Has the disc finally gone bad?

I'm going to try it one more time tonight before bed just to see what happens.
 
After 3 hrs of using a wheel I can honestly say I'm crap & my arms ache lol.

Honestly, at the moment I'm quicker with a pad. I think because I can regulate my throttle/brake input better with my fingers (especially as the triggers vibrate) & I think that's what's missing from the peddles, they're just dead. Even with bare feet I'm pushing to hard (which is strange as I drive in real life). But I think that's what's missing atm, no feedback through my feet as to what the car is doing. Anyways I'm sure I'll get there. Just keep practicing aye.
 
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Mr Grumpy
After 3 hrs of using a wheel I can honestly say I'm crap & my arms ache lol.

Honestly, at the moment I'm quicker with a pad. I think because I can regulate my throttle/brake input better with my fingers (especially as the triggers vibrate) & I think that's what's missing from the peddles, they're just dead. Even with bare feet I'm pushing to hard (which is strange as I drive in real life). But I think that's what's missing atm, no feedback through my feet as to what the car is doing. Anyways I'm sure I'll get there. Just keep practicing aye.
Click to expand...

What wheel? Installed a brake mod cone yet? Braking was my Kryptonite in PC2 until I installed my brake mod...

EDIT. Oops! Just noticed the TMX earlier post. Not sure if there's an OEM brake mod for that, try googling it. Old school DFGT (same kind of sprung plastic pedals) users used to put a soft rubber ball up behind the brake pedal to add more resistance...
 
Anyone know what's going on? I'm doing the Indy car career series but my Indy car doesn't wanna go straight, right from the start of the race it starts to drift to the left or right? to the point i cant drive it for more then a few seconds before crashing?

I tried the stable and loose setup :(

Edit
here is a video of it? I cant do this series :( its not the controller since its fine with others cars
 
Last edited:
Chikane
Anyone know what's going on? I'm doing the Indy car career series but my Indy car doesn't wanna go straight, right from the start of the race it starts to drift to the left or right? to the point i cant drive it for more then a few seconds before crashing?

I tried the stable and loose setup :(

Edit
here is a video of it? I cant do this series :( its not the controller since its fine with others cars
Click to expand...


If it was just drifting left then I'd tell you that's because it's set up for ovals specifically. The toe angles ane everything are tuned so it turns left the best. Drifting to the right doesn't make sense though.
 
Eh Team
If it was just drifting left then I'd tell you that's because it's set up for ovals specifically. The toe angles ane everything are tuned so it turns left the best. Drifting to the right doesn't make sense though.
Click to expand...
Thanks after a few restarts the problem fixed itself? i'm on race 6/8 now :)
 
Can anyone tell me what the blue icon is right at the bottom, in the middle, of the speedometer please?
It's directly below the MPH, a small blue rectangle with the number 10 followed by a lightening bolt.
I'm on PS4 and the car is the Caterham SP/300.R
 

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