Project CARS 2 General Discussion Thread - Out Now on PS4/XB1/PC

  • Thread starter jake2013guy
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Im on pc. Nearly all of the tracks since update have very poor performance. Even online. When i first got the game, turning vsync on fixed it but not now.
 
Donnced
The DLC new 24H Le mans event time lapse is serious bugged if you set the race at 24 minutes.. In one lap you go from day to night 3 times :banghead:
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I've noticed the same thing last night when I played it. Thankfully the issue has already been reported to the devs.
 
danardif1
It might sound like I'm being stupid, but I play a lot of different titles and only really have this issue in PCars, both 1 and 2... I find with a lot of cars on default setups that I'll turn into a corner with what I think is an appropriate amount of lock, and it'll end up looping the car round. It's as if it goes from understeer to immediate oversteer... I try to compensate for it with adjusting the steering ratios, but is there something I could do or I'm potentially doing wrong to combat it?
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I've been told it has something to do with those differential settings because I have the same trouble on a few cars. It was suggested to me to run the preload setting all the way down to it's lowest setting. I tried that on the BMW 320 TC and it seemed to help it but it didn't do anything to the Ferrari Challenge cars. I don't really understand what the power, coast, and preload does but that might be an area for you to try.
 
Power: High - more oversteer
Low - less oversteer
Coast: High - less oversteer
Low - more oversteer
That may be the other way around, but what i usually do is change power setting if im coming out of corner, and change coast setting if im going into corner. To @danardif1 , maybe raise move brake balance forward? Most cars in pcars 2 i have to do that.
 
notanexpert
Coast: High - less oversteer
Low - more oversteer
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I know this is the accepted wisdom, but my experience has always been the opposite (for RWD). More locking on coast means the rear wheels are fighting with each other as you turn in, making them more likely to break loose. Depending on the corner, that binding can also cause the rear end to slip out for no other apparent reason mid-corner, which happens to me with some of the default setups in this game. I've improved each of those cars by reducing the coast (note for those seeking advice: for the clutch type that means raising it closer to 90 degrees).

Lowering coast may contribute to oversteer by allowing the car to rotate more freely or by dragging on one wheel more than the other when you lift the throttle, but that kind of oversteer is something that can be avoided or mitigated more easily, in my experience, than a rear end that's caught up fighting with itself.

I can only assume it's a matter of driving style. My style leans toward oversteer; I enjoy steering with the throttle and I loathe understeer. Rather than tugging the front end around a corner, I prefer getting the nose pointed in and laying on the power when the time is right. Also, I'm no stranger to open diff behavior; my old E30 taught me about driving an open-diff RWD.

Speaking of that, it's worth adding that an open diff or too little locking on power can cause problems by letting one wheel spin up.
 
DesertPenguin
Wolfe, how soon til you can get a wheel again?
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If PCARS3 convinces me it's worth a CronusMAX DriveHub, I've got a Logitech G25 collecting dust beneath my computer desk here. The physics in this game still seem like they'd be a little iffy for what I expect with a wheel, and the various reports of trying to get the FFB dialed in don't sound promising either.

To justify a wheel in my view, the FFB must be good enough not to be a distraction and the physics must be very close to right. The intuition and muscle memory of using a wheel makes it harder to work around quirks, or at least more annoying or distracting. I blame Live for Speed for spoiling me early on with its physics and out-of-the-box FFB. :lol:

Why do you ask?
 
Because it's not that bad (in my mind) with a G29 which is an upgrade to the G25 and we can race together on even ground 👍
 
By the way, what is this Crew 2 game? I never heard of the first one and have no idea what it is other than that cars are involved.
 
DesertPenguin
By the way, what is this Crew 2 game? I never heard of the first one and have no idea what it is other than that cars are involved.
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A big open world game taking place across an artistic interpretation of the continental U.S., one of the most impressive maps I've experienced short of FUEL back on the XB360. Not just the scale, but how different parts of the country compare to the real thing in places I've been to. The first game is a streetracing revenge story, in the new one you play as a rising motorsports star.

I call it a racing MMO, because it's structured quite a bit like one, even down to getting upgrades for your car as loot drops that boost its stats in the form of abstract points. It's different, but it fits within the gameplay context. The map is automatically populated with other players when you're in free roam, and you get rewards for just exploring or completing little challenges and stuff. Note that there's no (extra) subscription fee -- I completed the story of the first game solo without PS Plus, even. But it requires a connection to Ubisoft's servers (justified, IMHO, in light of the gameplay format).

It involves more than just cars. :) There's trucks and motorcycles, and the sequel introduces boats and planes, with race events for all. In addition to racing on the streets, offroad, on rivers and lakes, and in the air, there are racetracks that exist naturally on the map, including a few real ones in their corresponding locations. So now there's sanctioned racing with purpose-built racecars in the mix too. They're pitching it as a celebration of all kinds of motoring.

IMO, the first game is a bit rough, but TC2 is looking really solid, having been built based on feedback from TC1. Here's the GTP thread. 👍
 
@MarcoM -- It's really good with the DS4, too. :) But it's good to hear that the G25 works out well with this game through the DriveHub. Just for you guys, I tried mounting the G25 on the small corner desk I use for my gaming console setup. A bit like driving a minivan, but I'm surprised it fits. I thought I'd have to disconnect and move the 28" LCD and PS4 to the computer desk to make it work.
 
Guys I need help. I'm doing some multi class races at le mans vs the AI and when racing with the GTEs, for example the Aston Martin (but it happens with others as well), the car just tends to "turn to the right" under heavy braking situations, forcing me onto the grass or wall, like at the mulsanne corner and sometimes also at the entrance of the porsche curves, curiously enough it doesn't happen when braking into any of the chicannes.

Please help, the "Race Engineer" does not cover a situation where the car starts "turning to the right on its own" under heavy braking.

I have brake pressure at 80% and I am playing with ABS ON which is set to 70% (using PS4 controller).
Engine Braking is set to 0.
Not sure what to do with the differentials. The car feels very good at the moment, apart from the issue I describe here.
 
GenPattonX
Guys I need help. I'm doing some multi class races at le mans vs the AI and when racing with the GTEs, for example the Aston Martin (but it happens with others as well), the car just tends to "turn to the right" under heavy braking situations, forcing me onto the grass or wall, like at the mulsanne corner and sometimes also at the entrance of the porsche curves, curiously enough it doesn't happen when braking into any of the chicannes.

Please help, the "Race Engineer" does not cover a situation where the car starts "turning to the right on its own" under heavy braking.

I have brake pressure at 80% and I am playing with ABS ON which is set to 70% (using PS4 controller).
Engine Braking is set to 0.
Not sure what to do with the differentials. The car feels very good at the moment, apart from the issue I describe here.
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Move the brake bias forwards perhaps. It's one of the first things I personally do for every car I tune. I find the back end wants to step out on me under heaving breaking unless I do this. Maybe 4 or 5 notches at least. Hopefully will help you out.
 
Brake bias is 60.0/40.0
EDIT: setting it to 62/38 helped quite a bit.
Longitudinal Weight Bias is 51.0/49.0
Wings are 0.0 front and 0.1 rear, I would even like to set rear to 0.0 for just a bit more speed on the straights to be really neck-a-neck with the AI (100/100) but I fear I will totally lose the rear on other sections if I do it.

Engine Braking is now at 8;
Coast Ramp at 20 deg;
Viscous Lock at 400Nm;

That's it for the differential so far. Assists are set to Authentic.
 
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A few issues I am finding with rain in custom race vs the AI 100/100 at Le Mans (LMP1/LMP2/GTE):

Example 1:
4 weather slots, 3rd one is rain
24 laps, time x15, so roughly 1 lap = 1 hour for complete day/nigh transition

rain started to come hard at beginning of lap 11; by the end of lap 11 it was undrivable with slicks;
rain stopped around lap 18, which seems proportionate to slot distribution, however, the track never got fully dry, even on the last lap there were still some sections with pools of water which basically forced me to keep the wet tires until the end... on PCars1, the track would eventually get completely dry.

Example 2:
4 weather slots
2nd one is rain

on the very first lap I got warning that it was going to rain... "in the next 10 minutes", right...
rain started at lap 3 and track got completely wet on lap 4...
in this example, the rain is coming way too soon, it should be coming closer to lap 6.

Big issue: why, oh why, is the AI top speed limited to 265km/h during rain conditions? Was this the "easy way" SMS found to "balance" the AI vs the player? Well... the AI seems balanced in the corners, I can keep up with them... so why are they limited in the straights? Basically this is killing my races...
 
Deluxe Edition on sale for £30 MS-Store.
I can sell my disc version to CEX for £14 So I effectively get the season pass DLC for £16, so tempted.

If I sell Forza 7 aswell for £12, I effectively get it for £4 :)

£35 on PS-Store for you PS4 owners.

Edit: the deal is done :)
 
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@Mr Grumpy you could sell your Xbox and be in profit. Oh hang on there's a flaw in that plan, you wouldn't have anything to play it on then. Forget that idea. :dopey:

(I think the season pass is still on offer in the PS store)


GenPattonX
A few issues I am finding with rain in custom race
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I've been playing around with the weather settings recently due to a series I'm in. So have got a little used to them.
What weather progression rate have you got it set to? Since you've got the time set to x15 I would set the weather rate to a similar figure. The sync to race setting will make it rain longer and dry less.

Also I'd recommend using light rain since the track gets plenty wet enough without having a deluge. And it'll dry quicker

Try something like...
4 slots - Light rain / Hazy / Light cloud / Medium cloud
15x progression (experiment by moving it up or down by 5)

It'll be raining at the start so everyone will have wet tyres fitted. It'll then slowly dry out (but not necessarily completely) and later begin raining again for a short while. The process will repeat throughout the race at slightly random times but because you've got the time accelerated it'll look a bit different on each occasion.

Give it a go. 👍
 
Man... I just ran a 24 laps race at Le Mans, full night and day transition, driving as LMP2 and finished in 7th place overall, I managed to catch the LMP1s starting from the rain period up to the end of the race, the AI just limits its top speed at 280km/h... what... sometimes I can reach 320km/h with my LMP2, I just flew by the LMP1s on several occasions... I have no words... AI 100/100... I lapped the entire LMP2 field as well... GTE was just minding their own business. I even got to 2nd place overall, but was low on fuel so had to pit, the water never fully disappears from the track, I only had 1 slot as rain period, which was the 2nd one, third and fourth were dry periods, the LMP1s started to take back their places from me at the last 4 laps or so at the end...
 
Sound like you discovered a bug with the speed and should try avoiding it for now if you want to enjoy yourself.
 
Also sounds like accelerated weather transition especially going from dry to wet allows a.i. considerably. The most I ever use is 2x
 
Time progression I used was x15
Weather progressions was x2, because when I set it to x5 it started rain on lap 2 when it should only start after lap 6 which would correspond to the second weather slot.

But ye, maybe AI is currently bugged during rain conditions... I guess on small circuits or circuits without long straights no one notices...
 
That's definitely it. How many tracks outside of Le Mans, Vintage Spa, Vintage Hockenheim or Nordschleife (final straight) have you going flat out in top gear up to the rev limiter?

Personally I always set weather to sync to race and use all four slots. Most races are set to 20 minutes so I know each slot will be ~5 minutes. I think racing to a clock works better at calculating the slows, plus I don't have to calculate at every track change how many laps are needed to be ~20 minutes.
 
The Spirit of LeMans dlc pack is overall great in my mind. Honestly, just being able to try an old version of La Sarthe on its own was pure fun. Especially since I can just plain drive a modern LMP1 such as the Toyota TS050 around it to see how quick modern cars could get around this track. Of course, I didn't do that at first. My first car driven on this circuit was in the Mark IV Ford GT40 and then I did a race in it. It was quite fun to do that.

Alright for the Kers system, I'm honestly new at trying this. I mean, I've heard of the system already used in hybrid race cars, but I didn't know how to use it. My first race in the TS050, I kinda got left behind since I didn't actually know what button on my controller to push in order to activate it. I ended up looking up the control settings to figure out which button it was, hehe. Trying it, it was kinda fun to use; it was like having some kind of "boost" button.

Question: Is that how it works in real life, it acts has a boost once the cars use the stored kinetic energy?
 
In real life KERS is automatic for the LMP cars and for F1 is manual, if I am not mistaken, maybe I am confusing with DRS which is indeed manual in F1s, not sure.
Anyway, there is thread from the devs explaining how incredibly complex the system is and how hard it would be to correctly have the KERS to be automatic so they decided to go manual which basically creates an interesting situation to play with. Having it manual eliminates those situations where KERS is kinda wasted, you can now choose wisely and more efficiently when to make use of it, of course that as a general rule you want to use it as early as you can to get to your top speed as fast as possible to be at that top speed for as long as possible, but it also creates opportunity for a "push to overtake" button in some situations.
 
Is there a way to remove this timer warning thing?
Project_CARS_2_20180608235216.png
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That ^^
 

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