PS4 Physics, Updates and Special EventsPS4

[Stotty]

Just weird thing at you with T300 know better what I feel on my G27, other developers harness FFB better on Logitech than kunos, i.e. Smart coder uses canned centering spring effect on overlap with FFB when going over top center, giving constant ffb feedback, other developers push FFB firmware override on deadzone and have zero deadzone on FFB, ways are several, kunos isn't using any of them, manually you can put something close to center by adding canned effect "road. FFB" on AC, cheap solution what's not good.

I played AC for 4-5 weeks with a G29, and completed a lot of the hotlap and race events with it. It never felt nice. I've had a T300 for about 6 weeks now, and since I got it, I have completed all the remaining hotlap, race and drift events (except one drift) at gold level... so I think I'm pretty well placed to comment on G29 vs T300.

G29 does not work well with AC on PS4... so I would imagine a G27, using a 3rd party sofware to make it work with the PS4 would be even less optimal.

What I would say is I was disappointed in AC's ability to utilise the G29's abilities. G series wheels worked really well on PS3/various GT titles, with only minimal deadzone - there was a deadzone, but so small it had no effect on my ability to play the game to a high standard. And I have friends who play AC on the PC who also have no issues using G series wheels... so there's definitely as issue with how AC models FF on a G series wheel on the PS4.

But when you get the right wheel, AC physics (inclluding FF implementation) are (mostly) VERY good. It's definitely a level above something like GT.

I run my T300 with the same settings as @Scaff (FF at 45)... except I don't run the understeer setting. Feels lovely

 

[lancia delta hf]

Thanks for advice, not solving wobbling. Where in this game is possibility to do alignment what simulates real 4-wheel alignment?



Didn't see at all that wobbling at it wobbles my M3 to M4..
Hard time to believe how dynamic and "dialed" values are so far apart..

Perhaps you could ask Aris, the physics guy? That convo will be entertaining as hell.

You are 100% correct Scaff. People should really only pay attention to the right hand side while they're testing and getting used to how the car feels in the simulator. We all know that no racing sim is 100% perfect, so a camber value of -1.2° on each front tire might feel a teeny bit differently from sim to sim.

After you've done some warmup laps, if you're not "feeling" it the way you would like, go into the Pits and make some changes. As you've pointed out, Scaff, with this particular car in OdeFinn's video, Kunos setup the car pretty much within the stock OEM alignment guide range.

The left hand side are the numbers coming out of the physics engine and therefore reflect differences with the car on an uneven ground. But setting up a car with 4 different camber values and 4 different Toe-in values SHOULD feel strange, I would think.

Right? It's as if he knew 4 different Toe-in values would feel strange and no one would be smart enough to notice, and to top it off he repeatedly insults the coders by calling them not smart. It's like he lives in a parallel universe where everyone elses physics ( and ffb) and experiences are wrong ( except GT 0f course along with it's correct lift off oversteer on FWD cars) .

 

[BrandonW77]

I played AC for 4-5 weeks with a G29, and completed a lot of the hotlap and race events with it. It never felt nice. I've had a T300 for about 6 weeks now, and since I got it, I have completed all the remaining hotlap, race and drift events (except one drift) at gold level... so I think I'm pretty well placed to comment on G29 vs T300.

G29 does not work well with AC on PS4... so I would imagine a G27, using a 3rd party sofware to make it work with the PS4 would be even less optimal.

What I would say is I was disappointed in AC's ability to utilise the G29's abilities. G series wheels worked really well on PS3/various GT titles, with only minimal deadzone - there was a deadzone, but so small it had no effect on my ability to play the game to a high standard. And I have friends who play AC on the PC who also have no issues using G series wheels... so there's definitely as issue with how AC models FF on a G series wheel on the PS4.

I actually just read this over on the official forum, seems this PC player was having pretty much the exact same issues with his G27 until he used the LUT generator (which isn't available to console players).

I used the default in-game profile for a time with my g27 as well. FFB was acceptable for the most part, track detail was fine, and I did feel connected to the road. But, I had the very tipical and (noticeable) center dead zone problem that annoyed me, even when trying to compensate with minimum force tweaks. (Maybe the years of abuse my wheel has made this even worse) Nevertheless, the LUTgenerator was the solution to all my problems in that regard. And only after the LUT, I found my self trully comfortable disabling the artificial effects. I mean, the FFB forces were so much smoother in their delivery for me, after the LUT, that I could actually feel the tyres response now, without the over exaggerated artificial effects. (That are often needed in lesser quality wheels)

http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...iased-honest-review-for-ac.44653/#post-867435

 

[OdeFinn]

Did you actually read my post?

OK I must just be making it up, as must that Gough plot above.

Now if you want to be 100% accurate you would switch it on for cars with no power steering or electronic power steering (as they drop SAL like a stone) and off for cars with hydraulic power steering (as they don't as the hydraulic system keeps weight in the system).

I read, but my "don't feed troll" protector ignores lot of it

That earlier mentioned Kudos dude speaking about FFB: http://www.gamereactor.eu/news/375343/This+is+how+Force+Feedback+works+in+Assetto+Corsa+on+PS4/

After those earlier mentioned FFB settings what I post I gave "second try" to game, it shows me lot of potential, but that potential is gone if that understeer effect is switched on, taking lap around Nordschleife with E92 without aids was pain, never got to finish, then back to understeer effects off and picking few easy cars on their virgin rides, two first cars didn't "survive" clean and my grandma mode wets pants, third car survived, once on grass so hotlap mode wines of that, you can look those first runs below, recorded on row. I'm not the best driver what comes to speed and doing on grandma mode isn't helping on speed, maybe under 10 min laps around Nordschleife.
Only help used is "auto-blip" and 0 damage, full stock cars.

 

[Scaff]

I read, but my "don't feed troll" protector ignores lot of it

I suggest you think very, very carefully about the accusations you throw around.

That earlier mentioned Kudos dude speaking about FFB: http://www.gamereactor.eu/news/375343/This+is+how+Force+Feedback+works+in+Assetto+Corsa+on+PS4/

http://www.gamereactor.eu/news/375343/This+is+how+Force+Feedback+works+in+Assetto+Corsa+on+PS4/
I'm well aware of what he has said about it.

After those earlier mentioned FFB settings what I post I gave "second try" to game, it shows me lot of potential, but that potential is gone if that understeer effect is switched on, taking lap around Nordschleife with E92 without aids was pain, never got to finish, then back to understeer effects off and picking few easy cars on their virgin rides, two first cars didn't "survive" clean and my grandma mode wets pants, third car survived, once on grass so hotlap mode wines of that, you can look those first runs below, recorded on row. I'm not the best driver what comes to speed and doing on grandma mode isn't helping on speed, maybe under 10 min laps around Nordschleife.
Only help used is "auto-blip" and 0 damage, full stock cars.

Tyre warmers and not using the H-shifter, you can do better.

 

[OdeFinn]

Tyre warmers and not using the H-shifter, you can do better.

Yep, next time, starting to take virgin rides from other cars too, maybe second date with stick and without blankets.

 

[ALB123]

Yep, next time, starting to take virgin rides from other cars too, maybe second date with stick and without blankets.

Nice. A friendly suggestion -- if you're taking a car onto a track that is not a 100% certified race car. Like, an F40 or Countach or BMW M4...If you're running on the Semislick tires (which I recommend, for now), it would most likely be a good idea to lower the Tire Pressure by 3-5 clicks on the front tires and 3-4 clicks on the rear tires.

Those suggestions come from Aristotelis Vasilakos the "physics guy" over at Kunos. It can be tricky to balance a proper Tire Pressure along with optimum Tire Temperature. If you can keep your tires in the color Green on the Tire on-screen app, I think that is most important, but I still think it's important to try to keep the Tire Pressure in a good range so the tires don't exhibit uneven wear, graining or blistering.

 

[BrandonW77]

Nice. A friendly suggestion -- if you're taking a car onto a track that is not a 100% certified race car. Like, an F40 or Countach or BMW M4...If you're running on the Semislick tires (which I recommend, for now), it would most likely be a good idea to lower the Tire Pressure by 3-5 clicks on the front tires and 3-4 clicks on the rear tires.

Those suggestions come from Aristotelis Vasilakos the "physics guy" over at Kunos. It can be tricky to balance a proper Tire Pressure along with optimum Tire Temperature. If you can keep your tires in the color Green on the Tire on-screen app, I think that is most important, but I still think it's important to try to keep the Tire Pressure in a good range so the tires don't exhibit uneven wear, graining or blistering.

This is true. During our track day Friday night (which we missed you at ) when I'd take a car out for a lap I was using the totally default setup and semislick tires and every car read as having anywhere from 5-8 PSI too much and they did not feel very pleasant to drive, FFB was a bit numb, steering was light and vague, car was hard to handle. Went back to the garage and dropped them 4-5 PSI and suddenly everything felt much better and the car handled better. This might explain why I've never been a big fan of street cars in this game, I never looked into tire pressures until recently and it seems that it's common for them to have too much tire pressure with the default setup which makes them kinda drive like poo and makes my FFB feel a bit odd.

 

[Scaff]

I will now say one thing, we have had a tyre model update since I last tried running without Understeer effects on.

It's now staying off.

 

[OdeFinn]

I will now say one thing, we have had a tyre model update since I last tried running without Understeer effects on.

It's now staying off.

New things aren't always bad thing

About AC, first impression is crap on Logitech wheel, Kunos could prep users better, putting actually working basic FFB setup there, dust on million dollar car windscreen when car is shiny and polished is big feeling dropper, visibility so crap thru it, maybe simulating either windscreen wipers and washer or just getting rid of that dust on widescreen, prefer getting crap out from windscreen.
Sounds are good, but not excellent, there's not enough "roar" when you apply throttle from coasting, it's nearly flat RPM dependant, there's bit of that roar coming when you're asking more from engine, not enough to be on "touch" with throttle position, GTS and even GT6 had this area better, there you hear when you're asking more power from engine than current RPM is giving, that ROAR..

After banging head to wall and tweaking FFB and visuals (89%/0%/48%/0%/OFF, 870° visual) game starts to live much better life, cars became easy to drive and you're actually getting "correct" feedback from them, minus that dull throttle response sound and dust on widescreen, with those problems removed and in-game "help/guide" to setup basic FFB for Logitech and why not other manufacturer wheels too. Deadzone on Logitech went practically to zero after those settings, not bad at all.
Lack of button configuration is big minus.

Few updates more and it might be more than ok, still they have to do favor for new game buyers and put FFB help or basic ready setup to be there.

 

[Whitestar]

Nice. A friendly suggestion -- if you're taking a car onto a track that is not a 100% certified race car. Like, an F40 or Countach or BMW M4...If you're running on the Semislick tires (which I recommend, for now), it would most likely be a good idea to lower the Tire Pressure by 3-5 clicks on the front tires and 3-4 clicks on the rear tires.

Those suggestions come from Aristotelis Vasilakos the "physics guy" over at Kunos. It can be tricky to balance a proper Tire Pressure along with optimum Tire Temperature. If you can keep your tires in the color Green on the Tire on-screen app, I think that is most important, but I still think it's important to try to keep the Tire Pressure in a good range so the tires don't exhibit uneven wear, graining or blistering.

Damn, I keep forgetting this, because I usually never touch anything with the default setup. Thanks for reminding me (I remember seeing that post by Aris a while ago). Btw, what if I use street tyres? Should I leave tyre pressure alone then, or still lower it slightly?

 

[lisanorm]

Well it seems drifting with the DS4 is way easy,couple more to go for the trophy's to pop then complete the rest of the long races in career and then i will be done,just can not see me getting gold let alone bronze on a lot of them hot laps.

 

[Stotty]

Well it seems drifting with the DS4 is way easy,couple more to go for the trophy's to pop then complete the rest of the long races in career and then i will be done,just can not see me getting gold let alone bronze on a lot of them hot laps.

Drifting is pretty straight forward with a wheel too, using stability control to stop the car spinning

I've got all of them... except the Audi... which at the moment, I can't seem to find the rhythm with.

What controller set up are you using? (I didn't really find one I felt comfortable with).

 

[Saidur_Ali]

Assetto Corsa feels really good with G27 on PC, just seems problem on PS4 version with G29 wheel. Maybe in a future update could resolve issue. Never tried understeer effects. I have used T300 before, was bit underwhelmed by it so waiting for something better before upgrading from G27. Really want a direct drive wheel, they feel so much better.

 

[lisanorm]

Drifting is pretty straight forward with a wheel too, using stability control to stop the car spinning

I've got all of them... except the Audi... which at the moment, I can't seem to find the rhythm with.

What controller set up are you using? (I didn't really find one I felt comfortable with).

I am using these settings,though not perfect for hot lapping,i also had 100% stability and no TC for the drifts

 

[Georgeagea]

AC on PS4 with a G29 is not good... the wheel has a huge FF deadzone. Completely different game with a T300.

And I exactly have those! Lucky me!

 

[lisanorm]

How many points to level 100 drift,things you do when ya bored

 

[WhoosierGirl]

How many points to level 100 drift,things you do when ya bored

That's just a torturous to watch as it was to do

Before drifting on AC



After golding all AC drift events

 

[ALB123]

Damn, I keep forgetting this, because I usually never touch anything with the default setup. Thanks for reminding me (I remember seeing that post by Aris a while ago). Btw, what if I use street tyres? Should I leave tyre pressure alone then, or still lower it slightly?

Street Tires can be very tricky...especially on older cars or 90s Street Tires. I often start with 2 clicks lower all around the 4 tires, maybe even three clicks on the fronts if I know there is going to be a lot of turns with tremendous load on that outside front tire.

I think the Streets are even trickier than the SM tires because they dissipate heat more quickly, or so it seems for me. There is so much discussion about maintaining solid green Tire Temps and solid green Tire Pressures. My practice sessions show me that's not always possible with street cars...especially if you are somewhere like Red Bull Ring where the vast majority of turns are one way.

My personal opinion is: I would rather sacrifice some tire pressure to keep my tire surface in optimal range. I know this is a pretty crappy answer to your question...but I seriously don't know how each car performs pressure/temperature-wise. I think it's always better to start off with a couple of clicks down rather than a couple of clicks up.

I might be wrong...but I want to say that I had to lower the Countach by 10psi a few times. I don't remember what compound I was using, unfortunately. Finally I came up with the idea to save the Setup file for that car/track combo as soon as I get the 4 tires pretty balanced. Sometimes the Left F&R are running 1 tick lower than the Right F&R tires.

 

[OdeFinn]

@ALB123 is that tire pressure thing still hard coded "pressure_ideal" in and you have maximum grip?

Can you help or tell what I'm doing wrong, I want dial certain spring rate on my car, inside range of current car, if I change that option in car setup it won't allow me to switch it, it's jumping over numbers and I can't even get game own stock value back on certain settings, i.e. Springs or ARB, what's the magic button what I'm not pressing which allows change by sequential numbers, and is quitting back to main menu only choice to get car reverted to stack (if you don't have manually made save of setup called "stock values").
Getting bored to save-reload-save reload sequence, what I'm doing wrong?
Probably can't explain my problem correctly, here's video what I ment, it starts with game stock values and I'm trying to set 20000 arb on front and 13000 on rear, when that's not possible trying to revert back to stock values 19000/12000, then I'm trying to soften rear springs one click from 58 to 57 and putting back stock 58, what's going wrong?
Values just jumps, front arb has more clicks when softening and less when stiffening, this feature just blows my head. Can you or some other guy who knows AC help me out?


Edit: solved that back to stock for whole car, "reset setup", other part is still unsolved.

 

[Stotty]

The level of granularity available in each setting is variable.

Some cars have big jumps between values, others have tiny increments... the difference in value changing up and down is funny... never worked that one out.

To get back to the original discussion in this thread...

I'm now gold on all the events except the Audi drift event, which I haven't quite figured out yet - I can get to c.30k points, but can't get keep the combos going consistently enough.

Back to running through career mode. Finished up to Hypercars... only c.80 races to go

 

[TT92]

Drifting is pretty straight forward with a wheel too, using stability control to stop the car spinning

I've got all of them... except the Audi... which at the moment, I can't seem to find the rhythm with.

What controller set up are you using? (I didn't really find one I felt comfortable with).

We had this discussion a while ago in the thread titled "PS4 setups for gold achievements". I was stuck on this event too until I reset my T300 to 240deg. rotation. Try it, you will nail it ;-) Also try Onepueblo 's tune, it worked very well for me.

 

[Stotty]

We had this discussion a while ago in the thread titled "PS4 setups for gold achievements". I was stuck on this event too until I reset my T300 to 240deg. rotation. Try it, you will nail it ;-) Also try Onepueblo 's tune, it worked very well for me.

I've tried @Onepueblo, and @WhoosierGirl, but so far haven't got it... car oversteers, and I can get it fishtailing for a bit, but then it slides in to understeer and off track.

I'll go back to it in the future.

 

[lisanorm]

I've tried @Onepueblo, and @WhoosierGirl, but so far haven't got it... car oversteers, and I can get it fishtailing for a bit, but then it slides in to understeer and off track.

I'll go back to it in the future.

After a few frustrating attempts and different tunes i finally got it and with this tune from Xanavigtr, worked a treat.

 

[TT92]

After a few frustrating attempts and different tunes i finally got it and with this tune from Xanavigtr, worked a treat.

Congratulations :-) It is definitely the hardest one of all the drifts.

 

[lisanorm]

Sorry about the horn must remove it from my left stick

Edit, it seems the person i got the tune from is number 1 on that trophy list,also has a youtube channel too.That's where i got it from, so if your on this site thanks

 

[Stotty]

I had a short session with the Audi last evening - got home late after a 14 hour business trip, but managed to sneak 30 mins in before eating.

I set my pad up as per @lisanorm, then set about finding a tune/stability level that suits me... and I found one

Got to 40k points in one run but slid slightly wide and lost the points... didn't have time for another run as food was ready.

Confident I will knock this one off over the weekend.

Then it's 'just' a matter of all the GT series in career... only 80 odd races to go to platinum

Oh, and the horn thing is bloody irritating!!

 

[Stotty]

Audi drift event complete 1st attempt. You are special trophy in the bank.

Just the remaining career races to go.

 

[WhoosierGirl]

Just the remaining career races to go.

 

[Stotty]