PURE | JGTS - Going on strong and adapting in the face of change!
- Thread starter Denilson
- 4,412 comments
- 177,249 views
- 10,456
- United States
- WrecklessAbandon
Room 1:
PURE JGTS | Pre-Season Race | Monza | 175 km | Sunday, November 13th | Race Start: 18.00 PM (GMT)
1. GTP_CSL - Honda STEALTH GT500 NSX
2. Dr_Watson (TnJF) - Nissan XANAVI NISMO Z
3. chorda - ARTA NSX
4. TRP_NOSS - XANAVI GT-R
5. ErikAndre71 - Calsonic IMPUL GT-R
6. WiiFreak - TBD
7. OwensRacing - ARTA NSX
8. Paginas1 - YellowHat YMS TOMICA GT-R
9. Litchi_GTPlay - Castrol Tom's Supra
10. BiffyClyro93 - Calsonic IMPUL GT-R
11. IMMORTALPILOT- YellowHat YMS TOMICA GT-R
12. Minion07 - TBD
13. GTP_Aderrrm - TAKATA DOME NSX
14 TRP_REPLAY - CALSONIC GTR 08
Room 2:
PURE JGTS | Pre-Season Race | Monza | 175 km | Sunday, November 13th | Race Start: 18.00 PM (GMT)
1. paulmac2k9 - TBD
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To sign up, Quote this post -> Remove the [QUOTE']-tags -> Add your name and car to the room that suit you best -> Post
- 7,284
- Inverness, Scotland
- GTP_PaulMac/paulmac2k9
oops i never looked i just copied previous person my bad...
- 1,121
- Barcelona
- GV27-
Room 1:
PURE JGTS | Pre-Season Race | Monza | 175 km | Sunday, November 13th | Race Start: 18.00 PM (GMT)
1. GTP_CSL - Honda STEALTH GT500 NSX
2. Dr_Watson (TnJF) - Nissan XANAVI NISMO Z
3. chorda - ARTA NSX
4. TRP_NOSS - XANAVI GT-R
5. ErikAndre71 - Calsonic IMPUL GT-R
6. WiiFreak - TBD
7. OwensRacing - ARTA NSX
8. Paginas1 - YellowHat YMS TOMICA GT-R
9. Litchi_GTPlay - Castrol Tom's Supra
10. BiffyClyro93 - Calsonic IMPUL GT-R
11. IMMORTALPILOT- YellowHat YMS TOMICA GT-R
12. Minion07 - TBD
13. GTP_Aderrrm - TAKATA DOME NSX
14 TRP_REPLAY - CALSONIC GTR 08
Room 2:
PURE JGTS | Pre-Season Race | Monza | 175 km | Sunday, November 13th | Race Start: 18.00 PM (GMT)
1. paulmac2k9 - TBD
2. GV27- - TBD
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To sign up, Quote this post -> Remove the [QUOTE']-tags -> Add your name and car to the room that suit you best -> Post[/QUOTE]
- 1,121
- Barcelona
- GV27-
I've been driving the Honda NSX Takata and I found out the problem I have with it is basically the same as with the Lexus, although in an increased way. I don't know how to come out of slow corners fast without the rear of my car sliding like crazy. Any tip from the fast drivers?
- 9,741
- Las Vegas UTC-8
- Wardez
- Wardez
Are you using the recommended tune? Try the -10 0 RH that CSL talked about.
But it really does take discipline to drive the NSX quickly. Not too easy to drive right away, but once you're used to it it becomes fun and manageable. Especially with better tunes and such.
But it really does take discipline to drive the NSX quickly. Not too easy to drive right away, but once you're used to it it becomes fun and manageable. Especially with better tunes and such.
- 1,121
- Barcelona
- GV27-
Well I have this problem with both the NSX and the SC430, really. Obviously the NSX is more tail-happy, but I have this problem with both cars. I'm using Denilson's tunes, so far.
So by discipline you basically mean learning to have a really quick right foot and learn to apply the right amount of power to the throttle, right?
So by discipline you basically mean learning to have a really quick right foot and learn to apply the right amount of power to the throttle, right?
- 9,741
- Las Vegas UTC-8
- Wardez
- Wardez
Definitely, it might feel counter-intuitive or slow at first, but it's the way to go for sure.
Watch how I use my throttle carefully in this onboard video I made. It was the pole lap for the WSGTC race @ Laguna Seca, season 2:
Watch how I use my throttle carefully in this onboard video I made. It was the pole lap for the WSGTC race @ Laguna Seca, season 2:
SuperSic
(Banned)
- 293
- tony1311
You dudes must not forget that this is a game after all. So exiting corners in a controlled slide can be more effective and won't harm the tires. Therefore throtle control is not the only thing you should worry about, you have to work that steering wheel too(or pad).
- 165
- New Zealand
- PureGT_Muzz
My apologies for not starting at the correct time for the form up lap in Room 1. I had accidently pulled the power wire partly out of my controller. When you guys took off nothing happened for me. By the time I figured out what had happened you guys had well gone. I tried to catch up a little without warming my tyres too much and claiming an unfair advantage. This caused me to crash so I pitted to fix it. This gave me new tyres as well. So as not to claim yet another unfair advandage with fresher tyres than everyone else due to my own stupidity I waited at the exit of pit lane for the field to complete their first lap and joined at the rear when it was safe to do so.
I too DC'd at the end of my race somewhere around lap 49. I think there may have been a few seconds to go on the timer.
I too DC'd at the end of my race somewhere around lap 49. I think there may have been a few seconds to go on the timer.
- 9,741
- Las Vegas UTC-8
- Wardez
- Wardez
You dudes must not forget that this is a game after all. So exiting corners in a controlled slide can be more effective and won't harm the tires. Therefore throtle control is not the only thing you should worry about, you have to work that steering wheel too(or pad).
Advanced driving techniques level II: Attacking with your steering. xD That's the mysterious edge I can only ever just glance, let alone apply. But I hear you about the sliding, now that's totally counter-intuitive.
So that's what happened. Next time something like that happens feel free to let us know in the chat asap after we start, we're more than happy to wait. A backup USB keyboard is always great for more efficient communication 👍
- 1,121
- Barcelona
- GV27-
And I'm an intuitive driver, which is why I feel I'd be a better driver in reality than in a game. Still, I take those advices and will try applying them. Hopefully that'll help me to improve!
I've seen I was not losing time in the fast sector of Laguna Seca, and on the last sector I just wasn't that slow. So I need to work on slow sections... good to know I've figured out that much!
Thanks guys.
I've seen I was not losing time in the fast sector of Laguna Seca, and on the last sector I just wasn't that slow. So I need to work on slow sections... good to know I've figured out that much!
Thanks guys.
- 165
- New Zealand
- PureGT_Muzz
Will do Wardez, I'll get a keyboard just in case I really need to use it.
It wasn't a black screen William, but thanks for your concern.. It was my own fault.
No need to wait anyway. It's racing. Never ever wait for me no matter what please.
Here's my philosophy on bugs and glitches.
Disconnect = Engine blows up.
Pit Pass Through = Bad pit stop or time in the garage.
Black Screen = Bad start. You stalled it.
Real life racing is unpredictable. Why should virtual racing not be? There's no point getting upset, crap happens. No point having a heart attack over it.
For me I don't care if I have to race for an hour a lap down. I just do the best I can and get on with it quietly. Who knows what will happen up front allowing you to claim a place or two back. Leaving a race is not an option. It's disrespectful to everyone else involved. Period!!! Suck it up and get on with it. I take it as being a good practice run and try to improve my lap time a little. During yesterdays race I took a couple of tenths off my best time so my race was a success for me.
It wasn't a black screen William, but thanks for your concern.. It was my own fault.
No need to wait anyway. It's racing. Never ever wait for me no matter what please.
Here's my philosophy on bugs and glitches.
Disconnect = Engine blows up.
Pit Pass Through = Bad pit stop or time in the garage.
Black Screen = Bad start. You stalled it.
Real life racing is unpredictable. Why should virtual racing not be? There's no point getting upset, crap happens. No point having a heart attack over it.
For me I don't care if I have to race for an hour a lap down. I just do the best I can and get on with it quietly. Who knows what will happen up front allowing you to claim a place or two back. Leaving a race is not an option. It's disrespectful to everyone else involved. Period!!! Suck it up and get on with it. I take it as being a good practice run and try to improve my lap time a little. During yesterdays race I took a couple of tenths off my best time so my race was a success for me.
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- 9,741
- Las Vegas UTC-8
- Wardez
- Wardez
You have one of the most admirable attitudes toward racing online I've ever seen. So glad we found you! We're definitely on the same page mate 👍
and this:
Disconnect = Engine blows up.
Pit Pass Through = Bad pit stop.
Black Screen = Bad start. You stalled it.
Should be in the OLR, gold.
- 165
- New Zealand
- PureGT_Muzz
Thanks for the kind words Wardez. It's not just me that thinks this way. Our forum is full of people who have this philosophy. Pure GT is a tough club to get in to. It's even tougher to stay in.
OLR???? Sorry I don't know this one. Enlighten me please.
OLR???? Sorry I don't know this one. Enlighten me please.
- 1,695
- Norway
- ErikAndre71
The Outlaw
Premium
- 3,042
- Bay Area, California
- GTP_timeattack
Well a tune that suits your driving style and skill will help a lot. With that said, if you were using Chorda's tune as the baseline it may help to play particularly with the rear ride height (bring it up a click or 2) and also the rear diff (particularly increasing the acceleration sensitivity). Maybe a bit of + rear toe ( ~.15) would do you a bit of good also. All this should help your cause I would imagine, but in this goofy game you never know for sure what direction an adjustment to your tune will take you
Just saying that to cover my ass 
Everyone's definition of a "best tune" will usually be different, particularly on a trickier car like the NSX, as for one person the absolute fastest tune possible might be the best for them (as they have the skill to extract the most out of the rather unstable/fast tune), where as a lesser skilled player may not be fond of such a tune because it's harder to control and keep balanced at the absolute limit, coming off and on throttle.
With a MR car like the NSX, your accuracy with your footwork (throttle and brake application) is even more crucial than with the FR cars (with close to 50:50 weight distribution), as with such a car you should be guiding (by controlling the way the weight shifts) the car into and out of a corner more with your feet than with the steering wheel in order to be quick and accurate. With the NSX, it's ideal to keep the car perfectly balanced for exit acceleration by maintaining just the right amount of throttle (this is the hard part) once you release the braking. If you are very on/off with your throttle and brake application and also have an aggresive differential setting, the car will like to swing around like a pendulum (due to having a rearward biased weight dist.) if you lack the proper throttle control and exceed the tires maximum slip angle. Lastly, it's easy to overcook the rear tires on the NSX when exiting corners, so be careful to watch after your rear tires particularly during a 175km race. If you are even bringing the tires into the red zone (or even the white zone really) even once a lap you will be comprimising your rear grip throughout the lap by a good bit, which can lead to the domino affect (as the rear tires overheat you then overcook them even further do to the lack of grip).
Good luck....hopefully this helps to some extent
- 165
- New Zealand
- PureGT_Muzz
Thanks for that ErikAndre71. Reading it up now.
On the subject of glitches here's a wee video I made of an incident that happened to one of our drivers Zayn on Pure GT during one of our GT500 series.
Don't get mad, have a laugh.
On the subject of glitches here's a wee video I made of an incident that happened to one of our drivers Zayn on Pure GT during one of our GT500 series.
Don't get mad, have a laugh.
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- 10,456
- United States
- WrecklessAbandon
0 / +10
14.8 / 15.8
6 / 8
8 / 6
6 / 6
2.0 / 1.0
0.00 / 0.00
BB 4/4
My current setup on the Takata, getting close to satisfied with it, still burning the rears a bit quicker then I'd like though.
As others said, everyone has to figure out exactly what works best for them, what one driver can manage, another spins like a top. In building a tune for the NSX, my primary focus is to balance the tire wear, if at all possible, I might set it so the fronts wear down a bit faster, just to be safe, because once the rears start to get worse then the front on the NSX, there's no bringing them back.
14.8 / 15.8
6 / 8
8 / 6
6 / 6
2.0 / 1.0
0.00 / 0.00
BB 4/4
My current setup on the Takata, getting close to satisfied with it, still burning the rears a bit quicker then I'd like though.
As others said, everyone has to figure out exactly what works best for them, what one driver can manage, another spins like a top. In building a tune for the NSX, my primary focus is to balance the tire wear, if at all possible, I might set it so the fronts wear down a bit faster, just to be safe, because once the rears start to get worse then the front on the NSX, there's no bringing them back.
The Outlaw
Premium
- 3,042
- Bay Area, California
- GTP_timeattack
Room 1:
PURE JGTS | Pre-Season Race | Monza | 175 km | Sunday, November 13th | Race Start: 18.00 PM (GMT)
1. GTP_CSL - Honda STEALTH GT500 NSX
2. Dr_Watson (TnJF) - Nissan XANAVI NISMO Z
3. chorda - ARTA NSX
4. TRP_NOSS - XANAVI GT-R
5. ErikAndre71 - Calsonic IMPUL GT-R
6. WiiFreak - TBD
7. OwensRacing - ARTA NSX
8. Paginas1 - YellowHat YMS TOMICA GT-R
9. Litchi_GTPlay - Castrol Tom's Supra
10. BiffyClyro93 - Calsonic IMPUL GT-R
11. IMMORTALPILOT- YellowHat YMS TOMICA GT-R
12. Minion07 - TBD
13. GTP_Aderrrm - TAKATA DOME NSX
14 TRP_REPLAY - CALSONIC GTR 08
Room 2:
PURE JGTS | Pre-Season Race | Monza | 175 km | Sunday, November 13th | Race Start: 18.00 PM (GMT)
1. paulmac2k9 - TBD
2. GV27- - TBD
3. GTP_timeattack - TAKATA DOME NSX
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To sign up, Quote this post -> Remove the [QUOTE']-tags -> Add your name and car to the room that suit you best -> Post
I'll have to try your tune sometime soon. I think you are going in the right direction though by trying to get more energy/heat into the front tires, while taking a bit of the burden off the rears 👍 I assume you have the ballast set at -50? (all the way to the front)
- 165
- New Zealand
- PureGT_Muzz
Room 1:
PURE JGTS | Pre-Season Race | Monza | 175 km | Sunday, November 13th | Race Start: 18.00 PM (GMT)
1. GTP_CSL - Honda STEALTH GT500 NSX
2. Dr_Watson (TnJF) - Nissan XANAVI NISMO Z
3. chorda - ARTA NSX
4. TRP_NOSS - XANAVI GT-R
5. ErikAndre71 - Calsonic IMPUL GT-R
6. WiiFreak - TBD
7. OwensRacing - ARTA NSX
8. Paginas1 - YellowHat YMS TOMICA GT-R
9. Litchi_GTPlay - Castrol Tom's Supra
10. BiffyClyro93 - Calsonic IMPUL GT-R
11. IMMORTALPILOT- YellowHat YMS TOMICA GT-R
12. Minion07 - TBD
13. GTP_Aderrrm - TAKATA DOME NSX
14 TRP_REPLAY - CALSONIC GTR 08
Room 2:
PURE JGTS | Pre-Season Race | Monza | 175 km | Sunday, November 13th | Race Start: 18.00 PM (GMT)
1. paulmac2k9 - TBD
2. GV27- - TBD
3. GTP_timeattack - TAKATA DOME NSX
4. PureGT_Muzz - YellowHat YMS TOMICA GT-R
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To sign up, Quote this post -> Remove the [QUOTE']-tags -> Add your name and car to the room that suit you best -> Post
- 10,456
- United States
- WrecklessAbandon
The ballast is removed at the current specs. The pros are quicker acceleration, possibly slightly quicker cornering. The con is it's more tail happy off the bat.
- 738
- GTP_Welsh-Bain
Room 1:
PURE JGTS | Pre-Season Race | Monza | 175 km | Sunday, November 13th | Race Start: 18.00 PM (GMT)
1. GTP_CSL - Honda STEALTH GT500 NSX
2. Dr_Watson (TnJF) - Nissan XANAVI NISMO Z
3. chorda - ARTA NSX
4. TRP_NOSS - XANAVI GT-R
5. ErikAndre71 - Calsonic IMPUL GT-R
6. WiiFreak - TBD
7. OwensRacing - ARTA NSX
8. Paginas1 - YellowHat YMS TOMICA GT-R
9. Litchi_GTPlay - Castrol Tom's Supra
10. BiffyClyro93 - Calsonic IMPUL GT-R
11. IMMORTALPILOT- YellowHat YMS TOMICA GT-R
12. Minion07 - TBD
13. GTP_Aderrrm - TAKATA DOME NSX
14 TRP_REPLAY - CALSONIC GTR 08
Room 2:
PURE JGTS | Pre-Season Race | Monza | 175 km | Sunday, November 13th | Race Start: 18.00 PM (GMT)
1. paulmac2k9 - TBD
2. GV27- - TBD
3. GTP_timeattack - TAKATA DOME NSX
4. PureGT_Muzz - YellowHat YMS TOMICA GT-R
5. GTP_Welsh-Bain - Yellowhat YMS Supra
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To sign up, Quote this post -> Remove the [QUOTE']-tags -> Add your name and car to the room that suit you best -> Post
- 4,881
- Stockholm
- chorda / GTP_chorda
Most recent car specs.
We are only a small tweak a little here and there from finalizing the specs.
Most likely within 12-18 hours.
Note some more tunes in the tuning register.
The_Outlaw:
The tune I posted at first was with 30 kg ballast to the front. Now, when that extra weight is removed, the tune with the much more aggressive front ride hight works like a charm. 👍
When racing in an OFFICIAL PURE JGTS room, your car is supposed to be tuned to the following specs. Note that the PP is when aero is maxed out. You're allowed to tweak your aero settings, but you can not tune up your engine to make up for the PP lost thru reducing aero.
Nissan XANAVI NISMO GT-R, Nissan CALSONIC IMPUL GT-R, Nissan YELLOWHAT YMS TOMICA GT-R, Nissan AUTECH MOTUL GT-R
Bhp: 518
Weight: 1130 kg (Recommended Ballast Position: 0)
PP: 607 (With Full Aero)
PL: 100%
Allowed mods: Ridgity Improvement
Nissan STEALTH GT500 GT-R
Bhp: 502
Weight: 1130 kg
PP: 607 (With Full Aero)
PL: 87,8%
Allowed Mods: Ridgity Improvement
Honda ARTA NSX, Honda RAYBRIG NSX, Honda TAKATA DOME NSX
Bhp: RAYBRIG: 515 | TAKATA DOME/ARTA: 511
Weight: 1100 kg
PP: RAYBRIG: 606 | TAKATA DOME/ARTA: 606 (With Full Aero)
PL: RAYBRIG: 96,6% | TAKATA DOME/ARTA: 94,2%
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement
Honda EPSON NSX
Bhp: 530
Weight: 1150 (Recommended Ballast Position: -50)
PP: 606 (With Full Aero)
PL: 99,5%
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement
Honda STEALTH GT500 NSX
Bhp: 516
Weight: 1100 kg
PP: 606 (With Full Aero)
PL: 95,4%
Allowed Mods: Ridgity Improvement
Lexus DENSO DUNLOP SARD SC430, Lexus PETRONAS TOM'S SC430
Bhp: 513
Weight: 1130 kg (Recommended Ballast Position: 0)
PP: 609 (With Full Aero)
PL: 95,2%
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement
Lexus BANDAI DIREZZA SC430
Bhp: 528
Weight: 1100 kg
PP: 612 (With Full Aero)
PL: 99,1%
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement
Lexus ENEOS SC430
Bhp: -
Weight: 1100 kg
PP: 610 (With Full Aero)
PL: -
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement
Nissan XANAVI NISMO Z
Bhp: 505
Weight: 1130 kg (Recommended Ballast Position: 5)
PP: 615 (With Full Aero)
PL: 94,6%
Allowed Mods: Ridgity Improvement
Toyota YELLOWHAT SUPRA
Bhp: 519
Weight: 1090 kg (Recommended Ballast Position: 50)
PP: 604 (With Full Aero)
PL: 97,2%
Allowed Mods: Engine Stage 3, Ridgity Improvement
Toyota CASTROL TOM'S SUPRA
Bhp: 515
Weight: 1150 kg
PP: 611 (Max Allowed DF: 40/65)
PL: 99,7%
Allowed Mods: Ridgity Improvement
What separate the cars above from the cars below is that the suggested mods/tweaks/specs for the car below is only a rough estimation from my part. And also the cars that are hard to get on par. So please, help me out with some tests. 👍
Nissan WOODONE ADVAN CLARION GT-R
Bhp: 529
Weight: 1130 kg (Recommended Ballast Position: -27)
PP: 607 (With Full Aero)
PL: 95,0%
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement
IMPORTANT NOTE:
When you set up your car according to this list (or any PURE JGTS specs sheet for that matter), make sure:
1. That your car is fully run in.
2. That your car got fresh oil.
3. All PP's stated are whith Aero maxed out.
4. That when you look at your engines output, it's the numbers you'll see when in the settings menu that counts.
I.e: The ARTA NSX show 518 Bhp when viewed in your car list, but show 517 Bhp when viewed in the settings menu.
Settings Menu is what show the correct values, and is therefore the one PURE JGTS use.
In this section, I'll post some tunes for different cars that I've used during my test sessions. It's not any miracle tunings, but a base for one who want to test something in case he feels totally lost. Hope it at least help a tad.
Nissan AUTECH MOTUL GT-R:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 10 / 20 / 10
CAM: 2,3 / 1,7
TOE: -0,08 / -0,02
RH: 0 / -1
SR: 15,3 / 14,9
EXT: 7 / 6
COM: 6 / 6
ARB: 5 / 4
BB: 2 / 4
Spa: 1:15.2XX
Monaco: 1:31.5XX
Monza: 1:45,7XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Lexus BANDAI DIREZZA SC430:
DF: 35 / 60
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 10 / 20 / 5
CAM: 2,4 / 1,8
TOE: -0,06 / -0,12
RH: -1 / -3
SR: 14,8 / 15,3
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 6 / 7
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 4 / 4
Spa: 1:14.7XX
Monaco: 1:31.6XX
Monza: 1:45.2XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Honda TAKATA DOME NSX: 1
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 12 / 5
CAM: 2,1 / 2,1
TOE: -0,02 / -0,04
RH: 1 / 0
SR: 13,8 / 14,2
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 7 / 7
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 5 / 3
Spa: 1:14.9XX
Monaco: 1:31.9XX
Honda TAKATA DOME NSX: 2
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 14 / 5
CAM: 2,2 / 1,6
TOE: -0,06 / -0,04
RH: -10 / 0
SR: 14,8 / 15,8
EXT: 7 / 8
COM: 7 / 8
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 5 / 4
Monza: 1:45,2XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Honda RAYBRIG NSX:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 14 / 5
CAM: 2,2 / 1,6
TOE: -0,06 / -0,04
RH: -10 / 0
SR: 14,8 / 15,8
EXT: 7 / 8
COM: 7 / 8
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 5 / 4
Monza: 1:45,2XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Honda EPSON NSX:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 12 / 5
CAM: 2,2 / 1,7
TOE: -0,06 / -0,04
RH: -10 / 0
SR: 13,8 / 14,8
EXT: 7 / 8
COM: 7 / 8
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 5 / 3
Monza: 1:45,2XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Toyota YELLOWHAT SUPRA 1:
DF: 35 / 60
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 10 / 20 / 5
CAM: 2,3 / 1,8
TOE: -0,08 / -0,04
RH: 0 / -2
SR: 14,6 / 15,6
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 7 / 7
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 3 / 4
Spa: 1:14.8XX
Monaco: 1:31.9XX
Toyota YELLOWHAT SUPRA 2:
DF: 35 / 60
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 6 / 18 / 5
CAM: 2,3 / 1,8
TOE: -0,08 / -0,04
RH: 0 / -10
SR: 14,6 / 15,6
EXT: 7 / 8
COM: 7 / 8
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 5 / 5
Monza: 1:45,1XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Lexus PETRONAS TOM'S SC430:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 10 / 16 / 5
CAM: 2,3 / 1,7
TOE: -0,06 / -0,14
RH: 0 / -1
SR: 14,7 / 14,9
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 7 / 7
ARB: 5 / 5
BB: 3 / 4
Spa: 1:15.3XX
monaco: 1:31.5XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Totota CASTROL TOM'S SUPRA:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 9 / 8
CAM: 2,4 / 1,8
TOE: -0,06 / -0,08
RH: -2 / -2
SR: 14,8 / 15,1
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 7 / 7
ARB: 3 / 3
BB: 3 / 5
Spa: 1:15.1XX
Monaco: Pending
Monza: 1:45.7XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Nissan XANAVI NISMO Z:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 10 / 8
CAM: 2,3 / 2,1
TOE: -0,06 / 0,00
RH: -2 / -4
SR: 15,2 / 16,8
EXT: 7 / 8
COM: 7 / 8
ARB: 5 / 4
BB: 1 / 2
Spa: 1:15.2XX
Monaco: 1:31.5XX
Monza: 1:45.7XX
Down Force:
Airflow. By increasing your wing angles, more area catch the air, and push the car towards the ground.
In GT5, maximum settings are recommended at all times.
You can tweak the settings a tad to help your cars balance.
If your car does not rotate (Tend to go straight forward, or "under steer") mid corner, a slightly lower rear aero setting can help your car to rotate more.
If you feel the opposite (Your car tends to oversteer) mid corner, a slightly lower front aero setting can help your car to rotate less.
If your car feels heavy in the front, and you got issues with front tire wear, reducing front aero can help your car to put less weight on the fronts during cornering (Also on straights, but it's rarely on the straights you experiance this feeling)
Gear Ratio:
How fast do I need to go?
A good indicator on how you should set your gear ratios is acchieved by looking at your engine specs. Where does your engine produce peak power?
Let's say 518 Bhp at 6500 rpm.
The number 6500 is what you should look at. When driving on a long straight close to top speed, your revs should be at 6500 rpm even if your rew counter allows 8000 rpm.
Why? Because at high speed, air resistance is huge, and to make the car charge thru the wall of air, it needs as much power as possible.
I am not one of those who set my car up for a slip stream race. Sure, we can need those extra km/h maybee once or twice during the race, but to maximize your speed on all the other laps is a priority for me. You will always be able to keep up anyway.
LSD:
The differential got 3 different values to set.
Initial: Power goes thru the engine-> Gear box -> crank shaft->differential (LSD)->wheels. This setting can decide how much power it requires for it to be active. Meening a high value will make the drivetrain stiff->the car will feel like an old muscle car. The car will not turn, cause the rear wheels spin at the same pace all the time->The car rotates less. Set it too low, and the tires that need power to accelarate will get less power feeded thru the LSD, wich will have a negative affect on acceleration.
If this setting is too high, the settings you make for the acceleration and breaking will have no impact, cause the LSD is never active.
Acceleration: Assuming your initial setting is good, this settnig will feed the wheels with different power depending on the grip of the wheels. If set too low, your inner wheel (The one with less load on it) will be fed all the power, causing it to spin, and the outher wheel that got more grip will not be able to accelerate the car. The trick is to find a level where the outher and inner wheel do not spin. You could turn up this setting, but if set too high, the rear axel will become stiff, and the car will get in to powerslides (over steer). A tip is to watch your tire indicators while accelerationg out of corners. If the inner wheel picks up more heat (Or even turns red) than the outher wheel your setting is too weak. If the car powerslides, your setting is too strong.
Breaking: When approaching a corner, you want stability in your car. But if you turn this setting too strong, turn in will be affected in a bad way and the car tend to just keep a stright line. Set it too loose and the car will over steer on entry. Even the slightest steeringwheel movements can trigger this behaviour. A car like the NSX need a higher setting than a GT-R for instance. The GT-R is well balanced and does not need much of this setting at all, while a car that tends to over steer as soon as you turn in need a higher setting. We are driving Super GT cars, and the ones who might have a harder time with turn in are the NSX's. However, since we added the extra 30 kg to the front, the NSX handles much better at turn in. I had to run this setting at max when driving the EPSON NSX before, but now, when the weight distribution is better, this setting is almost the same as for the GT-R's (5), but I tend to keep it at 10, cause the NSX is still heavy in the rear.
Camber:
1. Negative Camber: //-----\\
2. Positive Camber: \\-----//
We always use Negative camber (Positive Cambers are for cars that needs off set suspention due to monotonius conditions. I.e NASCARS)
I estimate what kind of speeds I'll be at in the corners for a sertain track. A track with many fast torns equals more negative camber, and a slower circuit with slower corners meens less camber.
Why?
When turning your car, the majority of the weight will "rest" on the outher wheels. So when turning left with a negative camber setting will force the outher wheel (The one with most weight on it) to lay flat agains the tarmac, nicreasing grip. Your wheels will look like this in a left turn //-----|| when camber is set properly. If you set too much camber, your wheels will look like this //-----//, causing the car to slide (your tire wear indicators will go red).
And the faster the corners, the more weight on the outher weels, the more negative camber is needed.
Why does many ride more aggressive camber on the fronts compared to the rear?
Because the front is less sensitive when it comes to camber. If you apply to much camber to the rear, it will decrease the contact area of the tires when going straigh. What do the car do when going straight? It accelarates. During acceleration, we want as much tire as possible in contact with the surface. By setting too aggressive rear camber also wears out the rears faster due to less grip, wich equals spinning tires.
I.e. At Suzuka (A track with a lot of fast corners) my camber tends to be around 2,4 in the fronts, and 1,9 in the rear. Compared to Monaco, where I might run 1,9 in the fronts and 1,5 in the rear. All because the cornering speed at Suzuka is much higher than at Monaco.
Toe:
- Toe seen from above: \\-----//
+ Toe seen from above: //-----\\
Front:
I'm not sure att all about this setting. When I set my car up, I often use -toe. Because the car is pretty stiff (It's a race car, right?), so the car does not "sit" during acceleration or "dive" during breaking. And because of that, I use -toe. When driving a race car, it tends to help at turn-in. Some tracks requires a very soft set up, and when my car is very soft, it tends to "sit" and "dive" during acceleration and breaking. When the car is soft enough for it to "dive", the front wheels get more load, and if I turn with a lot of weight on the fronts, I tend to run +toe ( //-----\\ ). Cause the weight is even more on the outher wheels, and if the outher wheel points more to where you want to go, the initial turn in becomes quicker. This is not something I use that much, but sometimes I think it's required. It wears the fronts more tho.
Rear:
This setting is something that really depends on the car you're driving. I want my car to rotate as much as possible without loosing my rear in over steer. A -toe setting will help your car to rotate more. Cause the outher wheel get more load than the inner one, so if the rear outher wheel forces the rear to come out, the car will turn more effortless. Too much negative rear toe, and you'll experiance oversteer. My best tip is to get a feel for the car, and decide if you want it to rotate more or less. One corner where you def can feel this is the famous dunlop corner at Suzuka (The uphill left after the S-bends towards the end of sector 1). I had a lot of trouble going thru there at full throttle without going wide out in the sand. So I had to let of the throttle for a second to get the car pointing to where I wanted to go. And by increasing rear -toe, I could now hold my throttle down 100% thru the entire turn.
A really tailhappy car need more +toe, and a car that tends to just plow straight in the corners need more -toe in general.
Ride Hight:
I tend to run this setting as close to 0 as possible. I beliwve that these cars are low as default, and not like your everyday car fittet with an aftermarket suspention that lowers it an inch or two. What I try to find is a good relation between front and rear ride hight. This does not meen that I set them at the same hight, it meens that I want a car that feels neutral. If my car over steers on exit, I lower the rear to force the back end to stay still, or if I feel that the car is too low in the rear, pushing it straight forward when accelerating out of a corner I loose it up.
The front ride hight is a bit more complex than the rear imo. If you feel that your car is under steering, I always loosen the front rather than lowering it. A lower front will only put more strain on the car, increasing tire wear as a result. So by softening the front, I feel that the cars front is "lighter" and moves around more effortless. A good comparison of what I men is to try the M3 E46, and then try the M3 CSL. The difference how "heavy" the front feels is exactly the feeling I get when making my front higher in a race car. Not to the same degree, but the same principal.
Spring Rate:
I always set my spring rate in relation to the ride hight. But also taking in to account if the car over or under steers. If I run 0/0 ride hight on a car that tend to under steer, I run slightly lower settings in the rear compared to the fronts. And if my car tends to over steer, I run harder rear settings. It's hard to say a fighure, but somewhere between 13-16 is what I use if my cars ride hight is close to 0 ( + / - a few "clicks").
Dampers:
*Extention: How hard will the suspention push the car up again. I use 6 or 7 almost all the time. 8 is a hard setting imo, and 5 is a soft setting.
To cure over steer on exit of corners, I tend to increase rear extention in relation with the rear spring rate and rear ride hight. All I'm really thinking of when tuning this setting is that it cant be too stiff, cause it will cause my car to bounce on bumpe-> contact with the road is lost->acceleration, breaking, handling is affected negatively. Basically, you want to keep your tires in contact with the track. If a track is bumpy, your setting should be a tad softer (5-6), if the track is more level a setting between 6-7 should do the job, and if you run on a really even track like an oval or similar, my settings could perhaps end up at around 7-8. Remember that all these numbers are in relation to my ride hight and spring rate.
*Compression: How much does it take to press it together. Pretty much the same as above.
I do know that you can cure over and under steer with this setting, but I've not yet fighured out what does what. Instead I just set the ext and com in relation to my ride hight and spring rate.
(Would love to have more knowledge about this setting)
Anti Roll Bars:
While the in-game information says that a hard suspention per automatic should loose up the anti roll bars is not something I would agree on. Perhaps it's more true for a production car rather than our SGT's. I've found that this setting can be pretty much whatever. The most important thing is to adjust by the way you feel the car, not by the numbers on your RH, SR, EXT, COM etc. A car that "plows" thru a corner a tad could be helped with a looser front anti roll bar, and a car that over steers can be cured with a stiffer rear anti roll bar imo. This setting does not have near as much affect on the over/under steer issues as the RH, SR, EXT, COm does, but what it can do is to make minor adjustments if you feel that you got your other settings spot on. A settings for small small tweaks if you ask me (When it comes to SGT's that is).
Brake Balance:
The higher the number, the more power to the breakes.
Mainly, I look at tire wear when tuning this setting. I.e, the GT-R's can be hard on the fronts, and if so, I reduce my front brake bias, and increase the rear. On the other hand, an NSX def wear out the rear more compared to the fronts, so in this case, I do the oposite, a higher value on the fronts and a lower value on the rears.
This setting can also help to create over/under steer on corner entry. A higher front setting will throw the rear around if you brake while turning, and a higher rear setting will help the car go straight while breaking.
Relations: More or less everything in a tune relates another setting to various levels. Ther's a million different relations when it comes to tuning, so including them all in this guide is impossible. I'll list some of my most used ones and hope it will help enough.
Ride hight - Spring rate - dampers are closely related. You must make sure to tune it all to work together. If your car is set up well, and you adjust for more or less rotation, make sure to change all these settings, not just one.
LSD - Rear Toe are related. If your car rotates perfect, but you want more power out of the corners, you might want to stiffen up your LSD acceleration, but when you do, you'll feed the outher wheel with more power, so the toe angle you had might not work so well any more, you might need to decrease it to keep your cer from powersliding.
Front camber - Rear toe are ralted. Let's say your car rotates perfect, but you have trouble with fron tire wear. If you reduce the front camber and put more negative rear toe, the rear toe setings will help the car turn, and less stress is put on the front->need less camber->less front tire wear->same rotation.
We are only a small tweak a little here and there from finalizing the specs.
Most likely within 12-18 hours.
Note some more tunes in the tuning register.
The_Outlaw:
The tune I posted at first was with 30 kg ballast to the front. Now, when that extra weight is removed, the tune with the much more aggressive front ride hight works like a charm. 👍
Current Car Specifications
When racing in an OFFICIAL PURE JGTS room, your car is supposed to be tuned to the following specs. Note that the PP is when aero is maxed out. You're allowed to tweak your aero settings, but you can not tune up your engine to make up for the PP lost thru reducing aero.
Nissan XANAVI NISMO GT-R, Nissan CALSONIC IMPUL GT-R, Nissan YELLOWHAT YMS TOMICA GT-R, Nissan AUTECH MOTUL GT-R
Bhp: 518
Weight: 1130 kg (Recommended Ballast Position: 0)
PP: 607 (With Full Aero)
PL: 100%
Allowed mods: Ridgity Improvement
Nissan STEALTH GT500 GT-R
Bhp: 502
Weight: 1130 kg
PP: 607 (With Full Aero)
PL: 87,8%
Allowed Mods: Ridgity Improvement
Honda ARTA NSX, Honda RAYBRIG NSX, Honda TAKATA DOME NSX
Bhp: RAYBRIG: 515 | TAKATA DOME/ARTA: 511
Weight: 1100 kg
PP: RAYBRIG: 606 | TAKATA DOME/ARTA: 606 (With Full Aero)
PL: RAYBRIG: 96,6% | TAKATA DOME/ARTA: 94,2%
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement
Honda EPSON NSX
Bhp: 530
Weight: 1150 (Recommended Ballast Position: -50)
PP: 606 (With Full Aero)
PL: 99,5%
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement
Honda STEALTH GT500 NSX
Bhp: 516
Weight: 1100 kg
PP: 606 (With Full Aero)
PL: 95,4%
Allowed Mods: Ridgity Improvement
Lexus DENSO DUNLOP SARD SC430, Lexus PETRONAS TOM'S SC430
Bhp: 513
Weight: 1130 kg (Recommended Ballast Position: 0)
PP: 609 (With Full Aero)
PL: 95,2%
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement
Lexus BANDAI DIREZZA SC430
Bhp: 528
Weight: 1100 kg
PP: 612 (With Full Aero)
PL: 99,1%
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement
Lexus ENEOS SC430
Bhp: -
Weight: 1100 kg
PP: 610 (With Full Aero)
PL: -
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement
Nissan XANAVI NISMO Z
Bhp: 505
Weight: 1130 kg (Recommended Ballast Position: 5)
PP: 615 (With Full Aero)
PL: 94,6%
Allowed Mods: Ridgity Improvement
Toyota YELLOWHAT SUPRA
Bhp: 519
Weight: 1090 kg (Recommended Ballast Position: 50)
PP: 604 (With Full Aero)
PL: 97,2%
Allowed Mods: Engine Stage 3, Ridgity Improvement
Toyota CASTROL TOM'S SUPRA
Bhp: 515
Weight: 1150 kg
PP: 611 (Max Allowed DF: 40/65)
PL: 99,7%
Allowed Mods: Ridgity Improvement
What separate the cars above from the cars below is that the suggested mods/tweaks/specs for the car below is only a rough estimation from my part. And also the cars that are hard to get on par. So please, help me out with some tests. 👍
Nissan WOODONE ADVAN CLARION GT-R
Bhp: 529
Weight: 1130 kg (Recommended Ballast Position: -27)
PP: 607 (With Full Aero)
PL: 95,0%
Allowed Mods: Turbo Stage 2, Ridgity Improvement
IMPORTANT NOTE:
When you set up your car according to this list (or any PURE JGTS specs sheet for that matter), make sure:
1. That your car is fully run in.
2. That your car got fresh oil.
3. All PP's stated are whith Aero maxed out.
4. That when you look at your engines output, it's the numbers you'll see when in the settings menu that counts.
I.e: The ARTA NSX show 518 Bhp when viewed in your car list, but show 517 Bhp when viewed in the settings menu.
Settings Menu is what show the correct values, and is therefore the one PURE JGTS use.
Tuning Register
In this section, I'll post some tunes for different cars that I've used during my test sessions. It's not any miracle tunings, but a base for one who want to test something in case he feels totally lost. Hope it at least help a tad.
Nissan AUTECH MOTUL GT-R:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 10 / 20 / 10
CAM: 2,3 / 1,7
TOE: -0,08 / -0,02
RH: 0 / -1
SR: 15,3 / 14,9
EXT: 7 / 6
COM: 6 / 6
ARB: 5 / 4
BB: 2 / 4
Spa: 1:15.2XX
Monaco: 1:31.5XX
Monza: 1:45,7XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Lexus BANDAI DIREZZA SC430:
DF: 35 / 60
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 10 / 20 / 5
CAM: 2,4 / 1,8
TOE: -0,06 / -0,12
RH: -1 / -3
SR: 14,8 / 15,3
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 6 / 7
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 4 / 4
Spa: 1:14.7XX
Monaco: 1:31.6XX
Monza: 1:45.2XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Honda TAKATA DOME NSX: 1
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 12 / 5
CAM: 2,1 / 2,1
TOE: -0,02 / -0,04
RH: 1 / 0
SR: 13,8 / 14,2
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 7 / 7
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 5 / 3
Spa: 1:14.9XX
Monaco: 1:31.9XX
Honda TAKATA DOME NSX: 2
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 14 / 5
CAM: 2,2 / 1,6
TOE: -0,06 / -0,04
RH: -10 / 0
SR: 14,8 / 15,8
EXT: 7 / 8
COM: 7 / 8
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 5 / 4
Monza: 1:45,2XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Honda RAYBRIG NSX:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 14 / 5
CAM: 2,2 / 1,6
TOE: -0,06 / -0,04
RH: -10 / 0
SR: 14,8 / 15,8
EXT: 7 / 8
COM: 7 / 8
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 5 / 4
Monza: 1:45,2XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Honda EPSON NSX:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 12 / 5
CAM: 2,2 / 1,7
TOE: -0,06 / -0,04
RH: -10 / 0
SR: 13,8 / 14,8
EXT: 7 / 8
COM: 7 / 8
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 5 / 3
Monza: 1:45,2XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Toyota YELLOWHAT SUPRA 1:
DF: 35 / 60
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 10 / 20 / 5
CAM: 2,3 / 1,8
TOE: -0,08 / -0,04
RH: 0 / -2
SR: 14,6 / 15,6
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 7 / 7
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 3 / 4
Spa: 1:14.8XX
Monaco: 1:31.9XX
Toyota YELLOWHAT SUPRA 2:
DF: 35 / 60
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 6 / 18 / 5
CAM: 2,3 / 1,8
TOE: -0,08 / -0,04
RH: 0 / -10
SR: 14,6 / 15,6
EXT: 7 / 8
COM: 7 / 8
ARB: 4 / 4
BB: 5 / 5
Monza: 1:45,1XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Lexus PETRONAS TOM'S SC430:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 10 / 16 / 5
CAM: 2,3 / 1,7
TOE: -0,06 / -0,14
RH: 0 / -1
SR: 14,7 / 14,9
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 7 / 7
ARB: 5 / 5
BB: 3 / 4
Spa: 1:15.3XX
monaco: 1:31.5XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Totota CASTROL TOM'S SUPRA:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 9 / 8
CAM: 2,4 / 1,8
TOE: -0,06 / -0,08
RH: -2 / -2
SR: 14,8 / 15,1
EXT: 7 / 7
COM: 7 / 7
ARB: 3 / 3
BB: 3 / 5
Spa: 1:15.1XX
Monaco: Pending
Monza: 1:45.7XX
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Nissan XANAVI NISMO Z:
DF: 40 / 65
GR: Depending on track
LSD: 8 / 10 / 8
CAM: 2,3 / 2,1
TOE: -0,06 / 0,00
RH: -2 / -4
SR: 15,2 / 16,8
EXT: 7 / 8
COM: 7 / 8
ARB: 5 / 4
BB: 1 / 2
Spa: 1:15.2XX
Monaco: 1:31.5XX
Monza: 1:45.7XX
Tuning Tips
In this section, I'll share my view on how I experiance the different settings and what they do to the car. This is not stated as any sientific proof, or something that's concidered to be truth. It's simply my view on things. The ones of you who already feel confident in your tuning do not need this list I suppose. I made this one for some of you who claims you can't tuna car at all and need some help/guidinece.Down Force:
Airflow. By increasing your wing angles, more area catch the air, and push the car towards the ground.
In GT5, maximum settings are recommended at all times.
You can tweak the settings a tad to help your cars balance.
If your car does not rotate (Tend to go straight forward, or "under steer") mid corner, a slightly lower rear aero setting can help your car to rotate more.
If you feel the opposite (Your car tends to oversteer) mid corner, a slightly lower front aero setting can help your car to rotate less.
If your car feels heavy in the front, and you got issues with front tire wear, reducing front aero can help your car to put less weight on the fronts during cornering (Also on straights, but it's rarely on the straights you experiance this feeling)
Gear Ratio:
How fast do I need to go?
A good indicator on how you should set your gear ratios is acchieved by looking at your engine specs. Where does your engine produce peak power?
Let's say 518 Bhp at 6500 rpm.
The number 6500 is what you should look at. When driving on a long straight close to top speed, your revs should be at 6500 rpm even if your rew counter allows 8000 rpm.
Why? Because at high speed, air resistance is huge, and to make the car charge thru the wall of air, it needs as much power as possible.
I am not one of those who set my car up for a slip stream race. Sure, we can need those extra km/h maybee once or twice during the race, but to maximize your speed on all the other laps is a priority for me. You will always be able to keep up anyway.
LSD:
The differential got 3 different values to set.
Initial: Power goes thru the engine-> Gear box -> crank shaft->differential (LSD)->wheels. This setting can decide how much power it requires for it to be active. Meening a high value will make the drivetrain stiff->the car will feel like an old muscle car. The car will not turn, cause the rear wheels spin at the same pace all the time->The car rotates less. Set it too low, and the tires that need power to accelarate will get less power feeded thru the LSD, wich will have a negative affect on acceleration.
If this setting is too high, the settings you make for the acceleration and breaking will have no impact, cause the LSD is never active.
Acceleration: Assuming your initial setting is good, this settnig will feed the wheels with different power depending on the grip of the wheels. If set too low, your inner wheel (The one with less load on it) will be fed all the power, causing it to spin, and the outher wheel that got more grip will not be able to accelerate the car. The trick is to find a level where the outher and inner wheel do not spin. You could turn up this setting, but if set too high, the rear axel will become stiff, and the car will get in to powerslides (over steer). A tip is to watch your tire indicators while accelerationg out of corners. If the inner wheel picks up more heat (Or even turns red) than the outher wheel your setting is too weak. If the car powerslides, your setting is too strong.
Breaking: When approaching a corner, you want stability in your car. But if you turn this setting too strong, turn in will be affected in a bad way and the car tend to just keep a stright line. Set it too loose and the car will over steer on entry. Even the slightest steeringwheel movements can trigger this behaviour. A car like the NSX need a higher setting than a GT-R for instance. The GT-R is well balanced and does not need much of this setting at all, while a car that tends to over steer as soon as you turn in need a higher setting. We are driving Super GT cars, and the ones who might have a harder time with turn in are the NSX's. However, since we added the extra 30 kg to the front, the NSX handles much better at turn in. I had to run this setting at max when driving the EPSON NSX before, but now, when the weight distribution is better, this setting is almost the same as for the GT-R's (5), but I tend to keep it at 10, cause the NSX is still heavy in the rear.
Camber:
1. Negative Camber: //-----\\
2. Positive Camber: \\-----//
We always use Negative camber (Positive Cambers are for cars that needs off set suspention due to monotonius conditions. I.e NASCARS)
I estimate what kind of speeds I'll be at in the corners for a sertain track. A track with many fast torns equals more negative camber, and a slower circuit with slower corners meens less camber.
Why?
When turning your car, the majority of the weight will "rest" on the outher wheels. So when turning left with a negative camber setting will force the outher wheel (The one with most weight on it) to lay flat agains the tarmac, nicreasing grip. Your wheels will look like this in a left turn //-----|| when camber is set properly. If you set too much camber, your wheels will look like this //-----//, causing the car to slide (your tire wear indicators will go red).
And the faster the corners, the more weight on the outher weels, the more negative camber is needed.
Why does many ride more aggressive camber on the fronts compared to the rear?
Because the front is less sensitive when it comes to camber. If you apply to much camber to the rear, it will decrease the contact area of the tires when going straigh. What do the car do when going straight? It accelarates. During acceleration, we want as much tire as possible in contact with the surface. By setting too aggressive rear camber also wears out the rears faster due to less grip, wich equals spinning tires.
I.e. At Suzuka (A track with a lot of fast corners) my camber tends to be around 2,4 in the fronts, and 1,9 in the rear. Compared to Monaco, where I might run 1,9 in the fronts and 1,5 in the rear. All because the cornering speed at Suzuka is much higher than at Monaco.
Toe:
- Toe seen from above: \\-----//
+ Toe seen from above: //-----\\
Front:
I'm not sure att all about this setting. When I set my car up, I often use -toe. Because the car is pretty stiff (It's a race car, right?), so the car does not "sit" during acceleration or "dive" during breaking. And because of that, I use -toe. When driving a race car, it tends to help at turn-in. Some tracks requires a very soft set up, and when my car is very soft, it tends to "sit" and "dive" during acceleration and breaking. When the car is soft enough for it to "dive", the front wheels get more load, and if I turn with a lot of weight on the fronts, I tend to run +toe ( //-----\\ ). Cause the weight is even more on the outher wheels, and if the outher wheel points more to where you want to go, the initial turn in becomes quicker. This is not something I use that much, but sometimes I think it's required. It wears the fronts more tho.
Rear:
This setting is something that really depends on the car you're driving. I want my car to rotate as much as possible without loosing my rear in over steer. A -toe setting will help your car to rotate more. Cause the outher wheel get more load than the inner one, so if the rear outher wheel forces the rear to come out, the car will turn more effortless. Too much negative rear toe, and you'll experiance oversteer. My best tip is to get a feel for the car, and decide if you want it to rotate more or less. One corner where you def can feel this is the famous dunlop corner at Suzuka (The uphill left after the S-bends towards the end of sector 1). I had a lot of trouble going thru there at full throttle without going wide out in the sand. So I had to let of the throttle for a second to get the car pointing to where I wanted to go. And by increasing rear -toe, I could now hold my throttle down 100% thru the entire turn.
A really tailhappy car need more +toe, and a car that tends to just plow straight in the corners need more -toe in general.
Ride Hight:
I tend to run this setting as close to 0 as possible. I beliwve that these cars are low as default, and not like your everyday car fittet with an aftermarket suspention that lowers it an inch or two. What I try to find is a good relation between front and rear ride hight. This does not meen that I set them at the same hight, it meens that I want a car that feels neutral. If my car over steers on exit, I lower the rear to force the back end to stay still, or if I feel that the car is too low in the rear, pushing it straight forward when accelerating out of a corner I loose it up.
The front ride hight is a bit more complex than the rear imo. If you feel that your car is under steering, I always loosen the front rather than lowering it. A lower front will only put more strain on the car, increasing tire wear as a result. So by softening the front, I feel that the cars front is "lighter" and moves around more effortless. A good comparison of what I men is to try the M3 E46, and then try the M3 CSL. The difference how "heavy" the front feels is exactly the feeling I get when making my front higher in a race car. Not to the same degree, but the same principal.
Spring Rate:
I always set my spring rate in relation to the ride hight. But also taking in to account if the car over or under steers. If I run 0/0 ride hight on a car that tend to under steer, I run slightly lower settings in the rear compared to the fronts. And if my car tends to over steer, I run harder rear settings. It's hard to say a fighure, but somewhere between 13-16 is what I use if my cars ride hight is close to 0 ( + / - a few "clicks").
Dampers:
*Extention: How hard will the suspention push the car up again. I use 6 or 7 almost all the time. 8 is a hard setting imo, and 5 is a soft setting.
To cure over steer on exit of corners, I tend to increase rear extention in relation with the rear spring rate and rear ride hight. All I'm really thinking of when tuning this setting is that it cant be too stiff, cause it will cause my car to bounce on bumpe-> contact with the road is lost->acceleration, breaking, handling is affected negatively. Basically, you want to keep your tires in contact with the track. If a track is bumpy, your setting should be a tad softer (5-6), if the track is more level a setting between 6-7 should do the job, and if you run on a really even track like an oval or similar, my settings could perhaps end up at around 7-8. Remember that all these numbers are in relation to my ride hight and spring rate.
*Compression: How much does it take to press it together. Pretty much the same as above.
I do know that you can cure over and under steer with this setting, but I've not yet fighured out what does what. Instead I just set the ext and com in relation to my ride hight and spring rate.
(Would love to have more knowledge about this setting)
Anti Roll Bars:
While the in-game information says that a hard suspention per automatic should loose up the anti roll bars is not something I would agree on. Perhaps it's more true for a production car rather than our SGT's. I've found that this setting can be pretty much whatever. The most important thing is to adjust by the way you feel the car, not by the numbers on your RH, SR, EXT, COM etc. A car that "plows" thru a corner a tad could be helped with a looser front anti roll bar, and a car that over steers can be cured with a stiffer rear anti roll bar imo. This setting does not have near as much affect on the over/under steer issues as the RH, SR, EXT, COm does, but what it can do is to make minor adjustments if you feel that you got your other settings spot on. A settings for small small tweaks if you ask me (When it comes to SGT's that is).
Brake Balance:
The higher the number, the more power to the breakes.
Mainly, I look at tire wear when tuning this setting. I.e, the GT-R's can be hard on the fronts, and if so, I reduce my front brake bias, and increase the rear. On the other hand, an NSX def wear out the rear more compared to the fronts, so in this case, I do the oposite, a higher value on the fronts and a lower value on the rears.
This setting can also help to create over/under steer on corner entry. A higher front setting will throw the rear around if you brake while turning, and a higher rear setting will help the car go straight while breaking.
Relations: More or less everything in a tune relates another setting to various levels. Ther's a million different relations when it comes to tuning, so including them all in this guide is impossible. I'll list some of my most used ones and hope it will help enough.
Ride hight - Spring rate - dampers are closely related. You must make sure to tune it all to work together. If your car is set up well, and you adjust for more or less rotation, make sure to change all these settings, not just one.
LSD - Rear Toe are related. If your car rotates perfect, but you want more power out of the corners, you might want to stiffen up your LSD acceleration, but when you do, you'll feed the outher wheel with more power, so the toe angle you had might not work so well any more, you might need to decrease it to keep your cer from powersliding.
Front camber - Rear toe are ralted. Let's say your car rotates perfect, but you have trouble with fron tire wear. If you reduce the front camber and put more negative rear toe, the rear toe setings will help the car turn, and less stress is put on the front->need less camber->less front tire wear->same rotation.
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