Quarter mile Drag Tunes

[kennygt14]

stock ride height in the rear stiff front suspension soft rear adjust dampers according to traction loss in second, dont worry too much about first gear.

fighting on the computer back and forth will not change anyones views

also a little hint. when forza 2 didn't have a quarter mile i found a track where i could run a full lap in under a minute... Marked out the quarter mile and when the clock hit 1 minute i would go, crossing the actual finish line stopping the lap clock on my time... of course this takes an honor system as well as your reaction time being involved with total time..just a way to have fun BY YOURSELF to save your 1/4 mile times..

oh yeah.... /thread

 

[killerjimbag]

Ok I have officially become the spelling/grammar police.
If you cannot use proper grammar and spell please do not post on here.
My stomach is starting to hurt and there is a function called spell check that seems to work fine on this site.
If you want a drag strip,timing system and track email Polyphony or Sony.
Going on here and asking for tunes/tracks for something that does not exist is like asking the Tooth Fairy for more money.It isn't going to happen because there isn't one.

 

[ControlledAnger]

So anyone else have some decent drag tunes?

I used the old-school soft rear, hard front, ass end up style but it didnt seem to help as much as expected.

 

[Rotary Junkie]

I used the old-school soft rear, hard front, ass end up style but it didnt seem to help as much as expected.

That's because it's entirely backwards.

The only reason you see drag cars sitting like that is for tire clearance and because they've already found plenty of hook.

In the GT games, there's no such thing as "too much hook".

Soft front, rear just stiff enough to keep it off the bump stops under acceleration, high front ride height, rear as low as possible, as high as necessary, 10/10 front dampers, rear dampers with compression again as low as possible and high as needed, extension as low as possible without getting wheel hop on shifts.

Stiffer springs expand LESS and REDUCE suspension travel. Having the front springs as stiff as possible will reduce travel and cause the front end to not come up as much under acceleration... Resulting in less rearward weight transfer.

Physics man, physics. Get used to them. Sadly, gearing for drag racing is bloody stupid now, can't have a long enough 1st/2nd while still having close ratios but hey.

 

[killerjimbag]

So anyone else have some decent drag tunes?

I used the old-school soft rear, hard front, ass end up style but it didnt seem to help as much as expected.

Ok you forgot the apostrophe in didn't.

 

[zieglchr]

That's because it's entirely backwards.

The only reason you see drag cars sitting like that is for tire clearance and because they've already found plenty of hook.

In the GT games, there's no such thing as "too much hook".

Soft front, rear just stiff enough to keep it off the bump stops under acceleration, high front ride height, rear as low as possible, as high as necessary, 10/10 front dampers, rear dampers with compression again as low as possible and high as needed, extension as low as possible without getting wheel hop on shifts.

Stiffer springs expand LESS and REDUCE suspension travel. Having the front springs as stiff as possible will reduce travel and cause the front end to not come up as much under acceleration... Resulting in less rearward weight transfer.

Physics man, physics. Get used to them. Sadly, gearing for drag racing is bloody stupid now, can't have a long enough 1st/2nd while still having close ratios but hey.

Wow.. Really the only post worth reading.. Thanks for the advice .

 

[mafia_boy]

That's because it's entirely backwards.

The only reason you see drag cars sitting like that is for tire clearance and because they've already found plenty of hook.

In the GT games, there's no such thing as "too much hook".

Soft front, rear just stiff enough to keep it off the bump stops under acceleration, high front ride height, rear as low as possible, as high as necessary, 10/10 front dampers, rear dampers with compression again as low as possible and high as needed, extension as low as possible without getting wheel hop on shifts.

Stiffer springs expand LESS and REDUCE suspension travel. Having the front springs as stiff as possible will reduce travel and cause the front end to not come up as much under acceleration... Resulting in less rearward weight transfer.

Physics man, physics. Get used to them. Sadly, gearing for drag racing is bloody stupid now, can't have a long enough 1st/2nd while still having close ratios but hey.

I've found things to be a lot different with GT5 compared to GT4 RJ to tell you the truth, especially when it comes to the FF & AWD cars due to the physics changes. I'm no longer doing the standard max/min height, 2/10 & 10/10 dampers, and they've fixed the toe angle too (no more -4/+4 to get that extra bit of acceleration). However, I'm drag racing in a new way to give more realism since it's street racing really and not a quest to find the lowest times, so TCS has been thrown out the window and this has been the cause for a lot of the changes.

The gearing is pretty easy to get around even though it's very limited as most people seem to send the gearing out to the 440km/h mark, which is fine for tracks like SSR7 but not at the TGTT where you'll only get just over the 300km/h mark in most other cars that aren't Veyron's or X1's/F1's/FGT's. 95% of the players online don't seem to adjust their gearing which makes them easier prey since they think "I have more hp than you, so I must win naturally!"..........BZZZ, WRONG!!

Here's a general tip for everyone to help you become a better launcher out of the hole and you can test this out for yourselves to show the validity of the comment I'm about to make......sit there with your finger on the brake button and redline the car. Let your finger off the brake and check the delay between you doing that and the car taking off. You will find that Kaz has tried to put some delay into it.

Here's a better way of putting it, whenever you watch NHRA on ESPN, you'll notice that while the cars do leave when the lights go green, the actual physical movements of the driver happen when the lights go yellow because there's a delay between the driver hitting the throttle and the car moving. The same thing has been applied in GT5. Try taking off at :00.000 and watch how long it takes from you hitting the throttle to the car moving, keen eyes will notice this.

 

[prisonermonkeys]

Ok you forgot the apostrophe in didn't.

Stop. If all you are going to do in this thread is pick apart the grammatical errors in everyone's posts, all you are going to achieve is a warning or an infraction for spam. While the AUP dictates that you use decent grammar at all times, we do forgive the occasional spelling error of grammatical oversight because we all make mistakes.

Leave the moderation to the moderators, thanks.

 

[ControlledAnger]

Stop. If all you are going to do in this thread is pick apart the grammatical errors in everyone's posts, all you are going to achieve is a warning or an infraction for spam. While the AUP dictates that you use decent grammar at all times, we do forgive the occasional spelling error of grammatical oversight because we all make mistakes.

Leave the moderation to the moderators, thanks.

Thanks, now maybe we can get some normal, more relevant, posts.

And also, i always launch at .8, because it takes .2 in most cars for it to move. But this was kind of self explained after a few launches.

 

[mafia_boy]

Thanks, now maybe we can get some normal, more relevant, posts.

And also, i always launch at .8, because it takes .2 in most cars for it to move. But this was kind of self explained after a few launches.

So, you'll be .2 behind because it takes .4 for the car to move.

 

[Rotary Junkie]

So, you'll be .2 behind because it takes .4 for the car to move.

I was generally launching at .950 against you When I knew I was late it was because I dropped a few tenths PAST the full second.

 

[mafia_boy]

I was generally launching at .950 against you When I knew I was late it was because I dropped a few tenths PAST the full second.

So you jumped the lights by .050 and still got your ass handed to you by a Nissan.

 

[Rotary Junkie]

So you jumped the lights by .050 and still got your ass handed to you by a Nissan.

Only in the 1500kg massive wagon on worse tires, my Nissan, and... Err...

Z06 had you well covered, Viper GTS @ same power lost from a dig but pulled away from a roll, etc.

 

[WrxScooby]

I thought this was a Tune Thread havent seen a single tune yet. I'm personal looking for a good drag tune for my Supra RZ and 99 Viper GTS

 

[ControlledAnger]

So, you'll be .2 behind because it takes .4 for the car to move.

If you watch a replay of a car taking off at exactly 59.800, (another words you let go of square when you see .750 to compensate for reaction time [add more or less if its better or worse]) then the car will begin movement at 1.00.000.

I thought this was a Tune Thread havent seen a single tune yet. I'm personal looking for a good drag tune for my Supra RZ and 99 Viper GTS

Ill send you a great tune for both, as i have worked on those two a bit.

 

[mafia_boy]

If you watch a replay of a car taking off at exactly 59.800, (another words you let go of square when you see .750 to compensate for reaction time [add more or less if its better or worse]) then the car will begin movement at 1.00.000.

It's actually taking off from xx.600 because it takes 0.4sec for the car to react from your movements. It's the same as drag racers because they pop the clutch when the lights are yellow but the car moves when the lights are green.

You can test this theory against me if you wish, I'm in the online rooms every day, usually at the TGTT.

 

[prisonermonkeys]

Since the thread-starter has already made nine other threads on this subject, I see no reason to keep this one alive.

Thread closed.