Real Guns

[Michael88]

Yay! Just got the results from my tested hand loads from the proof house, looking at the data the load looks very promising! Only 6 meters / 16 feet per second extreme spread, thats a 0,7% spread of velocity between the rounds. Cant get any better than that.
Pressure is also mild, I can add another two grains to get the velocity to approx 810 m/s / 2650 fps easily. And thats with a 240 grain bullet, one heck of a long range load.

 

[Solid Lifters]

Almost 3,750 ft.lbs. of energy, too. Not bad. 👍

 

[Michael88]

I just noticed the bullet weight is wrong, they calculated the energy with a 220 grain bullet, I used a 240. That makes ~4700 joule, not ~ 4300. DUH.
Must be a typo.

 

[Solid Lifters]

I just noticed the bullet weight is wrong, they calculated the energy with a 220 grain bullet, I used a 240. That makes ~4700 joule, not ~ 4300. DUH.
Must be a typo.

I didn't notice that. I don't know that metric stuff. I calculated it myself.

To figure out the energy in ft. lbs. yourself, do this:

Velocity x velocity x bullet weight in grains / 450240

 

[Michael88]

I've never really figured out ft/lbs. When my load has 3750 ft/lbs, thats the energy required to accelerate 3750 lbs to a velocity of one feet per second, right? 💡

 

[Omnis]

It's the force of gravity on 26.25 million grains or 109,375 bullets displaced through one foot.

So, lay on the floor and set 109,375 bullets a foot above you, then drop them on yourself (with one bullet bearing all the rest). That's what it feels like to get shot.

 

[Michael88]

So its like having a 7.62mm wide spear that weighs 3750 lbs dropping on my chest from one foot above me? Thats gonna sting!

 

[Omnis]

Yep. It's like getting headbutted by Diane Feinstein.

 

[Maiden93]

Thanks Michael! That's a great description! I really just think the 10/22 stock would look good smoothed out and made to fit my hands. Could you tell me the grit of the sandpaper I need though? I'm also thinking of taking the barrel band off and putting a spacer underneath the barrel to make it "float". I've heard this stabilizes the barrel a little better. And yes, I forgot who asked it, I will take the stock completely away from the gun and do all of this work.

 

[LMSCorvetteGT2]

Yep. It's like getting headbutted by Diane Feinstein.

Is her head shaped like the buttstock of an AR-15! OH HAR HAR HAR

(five billion points to those who get that)

 

[Michael88]

Yep. It's like getting headbutted by Diane Feinstein.

Is that what you Americans call a ''pinhead''?

Could you tell me the grit of the sandpaper I need though? I'm also thinking of taking the barrel band off and putting a spacer underneath the barrel to make it "float". I've heard this stabilizes the barrel a little better. And yes, I forgot who asked it, I will take the stock completely away from the gun and do all of this work.

Ugh, sorry, I don't have the exact grit of the sandpaper in my head right now but the only thing that really matters is that you take the finest grit sandpaper available for the final step of the sanding, you don't want to have any scratches from coarse sandpaper in your stock when you are finished . What you use for the rough work to remove the finish is up to you, you can even take fine sandpaper for that task but it will take you forever.

Take your time, don't remove too much wood because wood once removed is hard to get back on the stock. Don't remove so much wood that the butt plate sticks out and don't touch the wood where the receiver sits in or where the action screws are, they need to be absolutely tight!

Don't ever sand across the grain, always along the grain or you risk a rough ugly texture and you may split and damage the surface of the wood.

In theory a completely free floated barrel is the best way to max out its accuracy, you don't want it to touch anything so nothing interferes with its vibrations. Remove wood from the barrel channel until you can slide a folded piece of paper down the barrel till it meets the receiver. That should be enough to ensure a completely free floating of the barrel.
Though I think a barrel from a 22 vibrates so little you won't notice any gain in accuracy, its more of a theoretical thing. With high powered rifles a free floated barrel is almost a necessity.

Good luck with your project, working with wood is fun and very rewarding.

 

[Slash]

Is that what you Americans call a ''pinhead''?

 

[Michael88]

Thats exactly what I was thinking when I wrote ''Pinhead''. 👍
Spongebob is awesome.

 

[Omnis]

I've read that floating a 10/22 is near useless. Something about the chamber/receiver isn't sturdy enough anyway.

 

[Maiden93]

Is that what you Americans call a ''pinhead''?

Ugh, sorry, I don't have the exact grit of the sandpaper in my head right now but the only thing that really matters is that you take the finest grit sandpaper available for the final step of the sanding, you don't want to have any scratches from coarse sandpaper in your stock when you are finished . What you use for the rough work to remove the finish is up to you, you can even take fine sandpaper for that task but it will take you forever.

Take your time, don't remove too much wood because wood once removed is hard to get back on the stock. Don't remove so much wood that the butt plate sticks out and don't touch the wood where the receiver sits in or where the action screws are, they need to be absolutely tight!

Don't ever sand across the grain, always along the grain or you risk a rough ugly texture and you may split and damage the surface of the wood.

In theory a completely free floated barrel is the best way to max out its accuracy, you don't want it to touch anything so nothing interferes with its vibrations. Remove wood from the barrel channel until you can slide a folded piece of paper down the barrel till it meets the receiver. That should be enough to ensure a completely free floating of the barrel.
Though I think a barrel from a 22 vibrates so little you won't notice any gain in accuracy, its more of a theoretical thing. With high powered rifles a free floated barrel is almost a necessity.

Good luck with your project, working with wood is fun and very rewarding.

Okay. Thanks so much for all the info. It's my first time doing it, but I know there's fun to be had with it. I'll try, if my Android allows, to put a before, during, and after picture. And one more question. When I get to the color part, what type of paint do I use. I know I can't just put regular paint on it.

 

[Michael88]

Use wood stain only.
There are many colors, mahogany for example gives the wood a nice dark red-ish finish, here are a few examples of regular wood stain colors:

But before you apply the wood stain try it on a part of the stock that is not visible when the gun is assembled, like inside the barrel channel or under the butt plate just to make sure the wood stain gives the wood the desired color so you don't get an unexpected result you're unhappy with.

Tip: when you start with the oiling process you can mix the oil with a small amount of the wood stain, the stock absorbs the oil along with the wood stain and the coloring gets a little more intensive.

I've read that floating a 10/22 is near useless. Something about the chamber/receiver isn't sturdy enough anyway.

The target grade 10/22s and the custom ones like the Volquartsen all have free floated barrels though.

 

[Maiden93]

Use wood stain only.
There are many colors, mahogany for example gives the wood a nice dark red-ish finish, here are a few examples of regular wood stain colors:

But before you apply the wood stain try it on a part of the stock that is not visible when the gun is assembled, like inside the barrel channel or under the butt plate just to make sure the wood stain gives the wood the desired color so you don't get an unexpected result you're unhappy with.

Tip: when you start with the oiling process you can mix the oil with a small amount of the wood stain, the stock absorbs the oil along with the wood stain and the coloring gets a little more intensive.

The target grade 10/22s and the custom ones like the Volquartsen all have free floated barrels though.

Thanks again for the great advice! I got some heavy medium and small grade sandpaper and started last night with the heavy. The original coat is coming off nicely. Now I just have to finish getting the rest off and then start fine detailing. How will I be able to carve out finger placement spots? Do I just keep sanding it hard until there's an spot like I want or is there an easier way?

 

[Slash]

I love cherry myself...I just think it looks good with the black parts of the gun.

 

[Maiden93]

Well guys, I'm almost done. With the sanding, I overestimated my hand skills and ended up with blistes hands to hell. Lol. But .. my stock looks nice. I went ahead and sanded down the rear grip handle to where it's a lot easier to fully grip and I also trimmed a lot of the front grip part off. No longer does the gun have any sharp edges, they're all rounded and smoothed now. I went with red oak as my stain(liked the reddish color) and put a polyurethane coat on after. I'm pretty sure that's how things are suppose to work as far as staining goes. I'm letting the first coat of polyurethane dry now so I can apply a second. I put two coats of the red oak on, and it has a dark reddish finish. There were a few spots where I could tell I went the oppose way of the grain while sanding. I saw these after I painted it. Oops. Made it a little darker in those areas, but nothing really too noticeable. Overall I'm pretty happy with it. The only thing I think I'm going to do now is get a jigsaw and cut off the barrel band part and smooth it out. But I might do that later on, when I decide I want another color paint and stuff. Next, I'm trying ti decide if I should invest in some upgrades for my 10/22 like the (Volsquarten) *spelling* parts? Is it worth it to invest that stuff into my 10/22 carbine model? The thing I don't understand is when people buy all these upgrades, in the end, don't you end up having another gun completely? Is the only thing that stays the same after a full upgrade the part that says Ruger and has the serial number? Thanks guys! Have a good one.

 

[Slash]

Lets see!

 

[Omnis]

DOODS. I need to get me a Negev.



If IWI can bring out a TAR-21 with the X95 style mag release, that would be perfect. Maybe make an extra long one in .308 while they're at it. The new Galil Ace looks pretty cool too, but man alive does that thing squirm. The piston in that thing must throw back as much torque as a Toyota.

 

[Maiden93]

Lets see!

Okay. First, tell me how to upload a pic onto here with an Android. Lol.

 

[Michael88]

Lets see!

Yes, pics or it didn't happen!

@ Omnis
Whats wrong with the Steyr AUG A3?

 

[a6m5]

Boy, I can't wait to see it either.

Omnis: I think all guns in that video rocked. Awesome tour of the factory, too. 👍

Edit: Volquatsen .22LRs Maiden brought up in his post. That's something else.

 

[Omnis]

Steyr isn't ambi and definitely isn't kosher.

 

[Michael88]

The AUG can be shot from both shoulders without having brass flying into your face.

...isn't kosher.

..that means....?

 

[a6m5]

I need couple of advice, if anybody has opinion:

My Remington 597 rimfire rifle has synthetic stock with no holes or swivels for slings.

a) Would (wood)screw kit like this work OK for synthetic stock?

b) I'm sort of interested in rattle canning the stock to different color. Is it as simple as just removing the stock, spray, then coat it with something?

Thanks in advance for any input. 👍

..that means....?

That Omnis is a silly boy. I don't think he's Jewish.

 

[Omnis]

The AUG can be shot from both shoulders without having brass flying into your face.


..that means....?

Israel joke

 

[Zenith]

What weight oil?

10W40 Castrol. I basically used whatever was going in my car.

Also, the AR in it's current state.

 

[a6m5]

Nice. Really looks high end. 👍