Real Guns

  • Thread starter Calibretto
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Ah. OK.

I can't remember if I posted this here before(probably :P):



A. Mazing.

P.S. Have you been looking at any guns?
 
Shotgun Slug (Brenneke 2 3/4 1 1/4 ounce @ 1580fps) vs. HDD @ 10 yds.
Went through it like a hot knife through butter and still had enough power to penetrate a 5'' beech wood beam sitting behind it.
For comparison, a friend shot a similar HDD multiple times with a .357 and only 50% of the shots went through making only tiny holes.

Conclusion: don't make body armor out of HDD's. :scared:


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Nice. 👍 I always appreciate the pics!

I can't remember if you joined the discussion early enough to see this youtube vid:



Only the slug penetrated successfully. Gallon jug would be interesting, but I wonder what kind of damage it would do on a human. Outside .50 cal(rifle), it gotta be one of, if not the deadliest shell one could get hit with?
 
Yep, shotgun slugs are mean, ballistically they're the modern version of a big caliber musket from the 18th century. Even tough Slugs actually have a bad sectional density they seem to penetrate hard stuff just fine.
 
Yep, shotgun slugs are mean, ballistically they're the modern version of a big caliber musket from the 18th century. Even tough Slugs actually have a bad sectional density they seem to penetrate hard stuff just fine.
With all the terminal ballistics testing I've done I found the 'general rule' that a high sectional density equals deep penetration is not at all accurate. Case in point is the shotgun slug. As you say it penetrates very deeply despite its bad sectional density.

There are bullets with large sectional density with horrible penetration. So, judging a bullet's penetration ability with sectional density will really get you nowhere. So, what is sectional density good for? For me, only determining how well a bullet will maintain its velocity down range. That formula still remains true so not all is lost.
 
Just got back earlier from shooting
my buddy and me put about 350 round's through his AK-47 and 100 through his springfield 1911.
Was a great day :cool:
 
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My dad and I built an AR-15, and its pretty sweet. My friend and I were shooting clays a while back and he went to reload his double barrel break-down shotgun and the whole front of the gun just disconnected. It was hilarious.
 
There are bullets with large sectional density with horrible penetration. So, judging a bullet's penetration ability with sectional density will really get you nowhere. So, what is sectional density good for? For me, only determining how well a bullet will maintain its velocity down range. That formula still remains true so not all is lost.

True, it seems to have something to do with projectile size and mass; maybe momentum?

If you take a muzzle loader loaded with a .45 round ball (worst sectional density you can get) it will barely have enough penetration to make it through both sides of a deer (thats why its considered minimum for deer), if you take a .54 round ball it will easily make it through the deer and it can be used on Elk too. Both projectiles have the same sectional density.
 
Jesus, the surplus store I usually have bought from in the past(I don't know for how long, after this), they finally shipped my very first holster. I think I ordered it back in January, but it must've been on backorder?

It's a tactical holster, not conceal holster, as my Glock 17 is a full-size handgun. I'll post pic then it finally comes in!
 
Sorry for the double post, but I need help. I got the holster today, but I made a really butt-headed mistake. The holster I ordered was molle holster, as in you need molle system to equip one. I just thought it looked cool, and I thought those molle straps can just be looped around standard belt or something, big mistake. First the pics:

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And here's the problem:

Those two marked straps are the molle straps used to secure the holster. Two questions to anybody who might be familiar with molle system: 1) Can they be used with any other belts, or do they have to be molle belts or vests? 2) Why do these things come with two different length molle straps? As you can see, one of them is shorter by nearly a third.


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I'm familiar with the Molle system, I have a Molle vest myself. I guess they went with a long AND a short molle strap because of the shape of the holster, having a Molle strap extend over the end of the holster wouldn't make much sense. (and looks ugly)

Mounting it on normal belts is NOT an option, while it CAN be done the holster would shift around and be very loose on the belt. Super-unsafe!

Get yourself a Molle battle belt (or a vest)....

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Nice Glock by the way, love them (especially the full size ones). And I don't say that just because I'm an Austrian who is super proud of his country's products. :sly:
 
:lol:

As usual, thanks for your help. Much appreciated. 👍 It was really bone-headed move on my part. It looked cool, it was described as "molle" holster, and I was like "duh, heard lots of good thing about it, duh!". :ouch: I might try to stitch on my own loops or something? We'll see. I might get that Glock factory holster for the time being.

Well, Austria brought us the Glocks, which I love & trust my life with. 👍 And of course, my home country, Japan brought us........ Arisakas. At least until the 40's. :P I got an early birthday present today. My coworker was selling bunch of junks, and he was also thinking about getting rid of the Arisaka he had for little bit, but had no use for. I told him I had seen it on OutdoorsTrader.com for hundred bucks before. He figured his was in poor condition, so he mentioned he might sell it for like $50. When I offered to buy it for that, he just gave it to me. Score. :P

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It's certainly missing few pieces from it, and the bolt-action is stuck. I can turn it, but I can't cock it. Also, telling by the quick google search, I think somebody tried to turn this thing into the paratrooper version of the Arisaka rifle by sawing off the wood stock by the barrel. It doesn't looked sawed off, but it's missing the stock towards the front, and it looks different from the paratrooper version as well. Anyway, with me being a Japanese national, it's just cool to own it as a historical piece. If I try to fix it and shoot it, it would most likely blow my face off. :lol:

Edit: I think I found the Arisaka:

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According to wikipedia, it is called the Arisaka Type 99 - Last Ditch model. Name describes the crude craftsmanship perfectly.

Edit: Thanks to this video, I figured it out. I took off the safety, and it's ready to rock 'n' roll. I'm just kidding, this thing would blow my face off the first time I try shooting it. :lol:

 
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Sorry for the double post, but I need help. I got the holster today, but I made a really butt-headed mistake. The holster I ordered was molle holster, as in you need molle system to equip one. I just thought it looked cool, and I thought those molle straps can just be looped around standard belt or something, big mistake. First the pics:

And here's the problem:

Those two marked straps are the molle straps used to secure the holster. Two questions to anybody who might be familiar with molle system: 1) Can they be used with any other belts, or do they have to be molle belts or vests? 2) Why do these things come with two different length molle straps? As you can see, one of them is shorter by nearly a third.

You need this... http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=349_1333325918
 
And the crowd goes wild. But just in Scotland. :lol: I like 5.11, but I'm gonna pass. I don't want to be like that Scotch Korean kid from the Skittles commercial. :lol:


 
Does your Arisaka still have the emperors crest on the top of the receiver?

If you want a modern bolt action rifle from Japan get yourself a Howa
They're currently flooding the European firearms market, very precise and reasonably priced strong rifles! They're a great deal! :)
 
Does your Arisaka still have the emperors crest on the top of the receiver?

If you want a modern bolt action rifle from Japan get yourself a Howa
They're currently flooding the European firearms market, very precise and reasonably priced strong rifles! They're a great deal! :)

I have considered Howa, as there is a kit to adapt detachable (high cap)magazine to them. Still looking around, but I like the prospect of used domestic bolt-action rifle. I'm flirting with the 700 again, though I know you, or anybody I know do not care for it. :P

The crest is rubbed off on the rifle, along with the 九九式(or Type 99) marking. I knew about this one, as I helped the guy who gave me the rifle with some of the info look up on it, when he first got this rifle. This thing is so beat up, stock's missing a chunk, and has rust on it. Intact crest might not help that much with the value on this particular Arisaka. :lol:

Serial number look up on web indicated that this was one of the last series Type 99 built for the Imperial Japan Army. One of the last 58, or 59,000 built, and it was manufactured in the city of Nagoya. How cool is internet? 👍
 
Anybody know much about Sig Sauer P250? They are unbelievably low priced for a Sig, and couple of things I've read seem to suggest how you can fire 9mm, .45, .40 by interchanging parts?

Sounds very interesting......
 
Anybody know much about Sig Sauer P250? They are unbelievably low priced for a Sig, and couple of things I've read seem to suggest how you can fire 9mm, .45, .40 by interchanging parts?

Sounds very interesting......

Here in SoCal they go for about $400 or so.
 
The P250 is able to be changed from caliber and frame size because the serial number for the weapon is on the trigger mechanism unit. SIG has designed multiple frames to fit the trigger mechanism unit and switching the trigger group to a different frame allows a different sized weapon or changing the barrel/slide group to have a different caliber.



About 50 seconds into that video, a frame change is shown. A few frames have been taken out, but the frame change is basically just a field strip with the extra step of removing the trigger mechanism.

EDIT: There is a better breakdown of frame change at the two minute mark.
 
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They seem to be going just over $400 online. Thanks for the vid, Brett. 👍

I wonder why it's so cheap? It's a Sig, it can go from full size to compact to subcompact with the right parts, also 9mm - .40 - .45 - .357 Sig.

Considering how proud they are of their products, I almost want to ask, "what's wrong with it?". :lol:
 
The likely problem with the weapon is the price for the different parts, barrel and slide, required for the caliber change. Not only do you have to buy different barrels for frame changes, but you also have to buy a different slide. I would imagine it would get pricey quickly if you want to buy a barrel and slide for .40 S&W and .45 ACP in each full size, compact, and sub-compact. Aside, I would imagine much like the P226 and P229, a .357 SIG combination would just require a barrel swap in the .40 slide.

SIG Sauer P250 X-Change Kit

Based on that, $285 for slide and barrel, it would get expensive quickly buying the full size, compact, and sub-compact in each caliber. On top of that, the .45 ACP requires a different frame than 9mm, .40 S&W, and .357 SIG. Compared to the barrel/slide, the frames are just $45 each.

Nutnfancy has at least two videos devoted to the SIG P250 if you want to watch those. I have not watched either, but he is usually pretty good in his reviews. From the text descriptions, he regards the weapon pretty highly.



 
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Awesome. Thanks for finding this, Brett. 👍

Nutnfancy is fast becoming one of my favorite youtube reviewer. He seems to review stuff I'm interested in, and he is very thorough. I'm done for the night, but I will be checking this out later for sure.

Also, good point on the cost adding up with required size change on slide, barrel, etc. It might still be worth it, if you know exactly what you want, and need only like couple very limited set ups, but again, good point.

Thanks man! :)
 
Picking up one of these guys most likely tomorrow or the following day. Couldn't be more pleased/excited.

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Picking up one of these guys most likely tomorrow or the following day. Couldn't be more pleased/excited.

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Personally, I prefer Gen 3, as they are tried & true. Great pick on G19 though. 👍 I do love my G17, but unless you open carry or something, it is much more practical to buy a larger compact, which can double as your concealed carry weapon. I'll probably never sell my Glock, but if I got to do it over again, I'd buy a G19. 👍
 
I'm grabbing this one up at a steal of a price, with a law enforcement discount since I have a military ID. Also going to be using it to qualify for my certification here in Oklahoma. Going to be heading to work next month to do security if everything goes according to plan.

I am still open to suggestions, though. This one is just too hard of a deal to pass up. Handguns are still new to me, as I've only ever been qualified in the M16 in the military.
 
I really like the Sigs, but Glock scores HUGE, at least in my noob-opinion, in two departments: 1) Reliability 2) Price

For me, reliability where you can just flat out count on the gun to fire when you pull the trigger is a must. As close to the 100% the better, and according to my online research(internet browing :dopey: ), they are near the top in handguns, if not at the very top.

Secondly, while it is not the cheapest, it isn't that much for this type handguns. As much as I want a Sig, I couldn't justify another $300! :(

If the price is a major factor, I've also heard good things about XD by Springfield Armory & M&P pistols by Smith & Wesson.

As firing the gun go, it took me just a bit to get used to them. They are blocky, I'm sure you never noticed that before. :P Also, I have heard from a competitive shooter that flat top of Glock slides does add time when you are trying to aim quickly. I don't know if that's true, but it makes sense to me. I do think that I might be able to sight the target faster if the top of the slide was narrower. He liked everything about the Glocks though, and I guess he uses them in police competition.

P.S. I had coworker selling civilian Beretta M9(92-something?) with stainless slide for $400. Nice gun. I did want it, but for $400, I'd buy a Ruger LC9, or add some money and get a G26.
 
This is the Glock 19 with the case and three magazines for $398. Seems like a pretty great deal.
 
That is probably a pretty good price. You will not be able to get a Glock 19 for that price at H&H, Bass Pro Shops, Academy, or Outdoor America, at least not without any discounts. At any of those stores, you would be looking around $475 at the very low end, though I would guess closer to $525-$550 and maybe even nearer to $575. Not sure how many magazines Glock supplies with a new purchase, but magazines run around $30.
 
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