I love the helmet cam. I just took a loaner Augusta F3 675 out for a few laps on Tenerife 2, and the bike really comes alive in helmet cam with increased sense of speed, body leans and tugs, muffled - but somehow more raw and louder - sound, and (the one thing that can potentially be a little annoying as it takes a bit away from the visuals, but I think I'll get used to it quickly) the desaturated visor view.
RIDE 3
- Thread starter DarthMosco
- 912 comments
- 113,151 views
I haven't noticed but will take a look next time I fire the game up. But what I recall seeing was the Devs names like Irvine Zonca. I didn't disconnect from the internet but I did disconnect from the Milestone services and disabled Autosync. That stopped the game from constantly trying to go to Milestones servers for everything. But if you plan on doing custom liveries you'll have to re-enable it
I agree with yours and RZ05's posts... but I guess my point was sorta missed. while Milestone may skimp and slide by, year after year, the big developers do it as well. It's exactly the same. So, I don't understand your expectation of Milestone (and I have no idea why I'm defending them, really not trying to defend them) when Polyphony does the same thing, and it takes them YEARS to get out the next mediocre installment (and I like the GT series - have'em all). they all do it, for crying out loud - look at anything EA does, anything. Racing, sports, shooters, etc. etc.
Anyway, guess I need to do some work.
lol oh I got your point and it's exactly why I don't play as much as I use to and find myself spending more time with older games then newer ones. But the thing with Polyphony is for one while I don't like the direction they've gone with GT at least there is a high quality value to the game. So even if a lot of it is rehashed it's rehashed REALLY WELL
plus then you look at GT Sport. What was in the game at release and where it is now. All the content free. Then you take a look at Milestone and their habit of removing bikes from the previous title only to add them back as dlc. poor support (though it has gotten better).But the biggest problem for me is that at least with cars we have a choice. I get sick of GT I can pick up AC, PC, F1 or something. But if you want a bike game Milestone is it. and the problem is they aren't learning and keep making the same mistakes over and over and have to fix the same mistakes over and over. I mean look at this stupid online thing they do now. Fine you want to add public lobby but don't take away user generated public lobbies. That's why I don't race MotoGP 18 and won't race Ride 3 online. so again Milestones games are terrible but they could easily be BETTER. EASILY if they would just listen. I'll try and push through ride a bit but it's a grind that really isn't worth it. They have all the stuff I want locked so deep that I'm like geez I already unlocked it in Ride 2 why go through this crap again. At least with GT Sport though they have basically the same tests from GT1 they do give you early access to cool cars and you can credit up real fast. I have no desire to race small bikes or retro bikes or crusiers ,etc....... but I have to do that. So no Milestone isn't the only one that does this but since they are the only one making bike games well they take all biker fury!!! lol Those MX vs ATV are so beyond bad I don't even bother with them or commenting on that dev lol
- 8,721
I agree with yours and RZ05's posts... but I guess my point was sorta missed. while Milestone may skimp and slide by, year after year, the big developers do it as well. It's exactly the same. So, I don't understand your expectation of Milestone (and I have no idea why I'm defending them, really not trying to defend them) when Polyphony does the same thing, and it takes them YEARS to get out the next mediocre installment (and I like the GT series - have'em all). they all do it, for crying out loud - look at anything EA does, anything. Racing, sports, shooters, etc. etc.
Anyway, guess I need to do some work.
Annual rehashes aside, the other point was the one made about Milestone subsisting purely by "exploiting" a niche; but none of those larger developers would even consider serving that niche precisely because it doesn't cover a big enough demographic.
So we weirdly have reason to be grateful for Milestone's continued survival, despite its method of doing so!
From what I've seen from streamed videos, the sound mix is definitely different - it's not just a filter - in helmet view. It highlights the induction and engine notes, closer to what you'd hear on the bike.
I like it a lot, at least for those bikes that have high quality sounds; some have carry-overs and others are just wrong.
- 85
- Manchester, UK
Well, I'm still really enjoying this. A huge part of that for me tough, is nostalgia. Having ridden bikes since I was 16, and I'm now 54! Riding stuff I used to own, like the RD500, RGV250, NSR400 etc, has me in my element
Graphics are a weird one. Some tracks look quite bare, but then you get Macau at night in the wet, and it looks pretty damn good considering it's running at 60fps.
Also, don't forget for anybody using the Xbox One, if you find it twitchy and are using an Elite controller, you can go into the Xbox controller app and adjust all sorts of settings for the analog sticks to get them just how you like. I know that app also serves the regular controllers, but I don't think you can go as deep with the customisation settings.
Photo from Brands Hatch. Not great at this photo lark, but I thought it really captured that stare eyed focus that you see on racers
Graphics are a weird one. Some tracks look quite bare, but then you get Macau at night in the wet, and it looks pretty damn good considering it's running at 60fps.
Also, don't forget for anybody using the Xbox One, if you find it twitchy and are using an Elite controller, you can go into the Xbox controller app and adjust all sorts of settings for the analog sticks to get them just how you like. I know that app also serves the regular controllers, but I don't think you can go as deep with the customisation settings.
Photo from Brands Hatch. Not great at this photo lark, but I thought it really captured that stare eyed focus that you see on racers
- 8,721
No H2R yet, no. It will be released in the "Limited Models Pack" paid DLC on 24/4/19, as per the RIDE 3 site [here].
I haven't spent enough time to come to any real conclusions about the handling, but the steering is certainly much more responsive. Especially if you're able to remove / reduce the deadzones.
If the new game steers more aggressively initially so as to more rapidly attain the desired lean angle (especially at slow speeds), then the bike will spend less time going straight ahead before the game switches to actually steering it around the corner. This could lead to stability / controllability concerns, and might be part of the reason the bike breaks away more readily in low grip situations compared to previous games, as the rear essentially cannot keep up with the front end (watch the second bike in this clip). This is good, with the right feedback, as it makes the bike feel more dynamic and potentially also more consistent at all speeds.
As a side note, I'm finding the Steam controller is not great for feedback of throttle and brake limits, lacking any real rumble for instance, so I will have to get a DS4 adapter to try that instead.
I haven't spent enough time to come to any real conclusions about the handling, but the steering is certainly much more responsive. Especially if you're able to remove / reduce the deadzones.
If the new game steers more aggressively initially so as to more rapidly attain the desired lean angle (especially at slow speeds), then the bike will spend less time going straight ahead before the game switches to actually steering it around the corner. This could lead to stability / controllability concerns, and might be part of the reason the bike breaks away more readily in low grip situations compared to previous games, as the rear essentially cannot keep up with the front end (watch the second bike in this clip). This is good, with the right feedback, as it makes the bike feel more dynamic and potentially also more consistent at all speeds.
As a side note, I'm finding the Steam controller is not great for feedback of throttle and brake limits, lacking any real rumble for instance, so I will have to get a DS4 adapter to try that instead.
I have no real life motorcycle experience - how do you guys brake efficiently (I'm using joint brakes)? I don't feel doing all the braking before I start leaning into a turn is efficient at all, and trail braking seems to work. Is that how it is in real life as well?
Edit: Also if I switch to split brakes (which I might since there's no semi-pro setting between normal and pro in this game, unlike Ride 2), when should I use the back brake? I seem to remember in DriveClub Bikes I mostly used it to get a bit of extra "slide" into corners.
Edit: Also if I switch to split brakes (which I might since there's no semi-pro setting between normal and pro in this game, unlike Ride 2), when should I use the back brake? I seem to remember in DriveClub Bikes I mostly used it to get a bit of extra "slide" into corners.
Last edited:
- 485
- United States
- Kelv_Jr
I'm still on the fence about this game. It'd be nice ifmade a review of it.
I think it's coming as DLC.
Edit: It's coming as paid DLC on April 24th.
That’s crazy because it was in the base game of Ride 2. Smh. They should do bikes that weren’t in the 2nd game or GP Bikes as DLC for the 3rd game. Thanks for letting me know. I figured since it was in the last game but not in this one.
bluemoon_19
Premium
- 1,177
- England, Yorkshire
- bluemoon_19
- 26
- Netherlands
Anyone unlocked a Special Volume yet? how do they work?
it seems to contradict itself; by completing the first Special Volume you'll unlock the '17 ZX10RR. But to complete that Volume, you need to buy a '17 ZX10RR (because its needed in a race in that Volume) but you cant buy it since its locked until that sameVolume is completed.....
it seems to contradict itself; by completing the first Special Volume you'll unlock the '17 ZX10RR. But to complete that Volume, you need to buy a '17 ZX10RR (because its needed in a race in that Volume) but you cant buy it since its locked until that sameVolume is completed.....
Anyone unlocked a Special Volume yet? how do they work?
it seems to contradict itself; by completing the first Special Volume you'll unlock the '17 ZX10RR. But to complete that Volume, you need to buy a '17 ZX10RR (because its needed in a race in that Volume) but you cant buy it since its locked until that sameVolume is completed.....
The bikes are loaned to you for the races in the special volumes.
I switched to pro physics and fell off my Ducati Supersport S around 23 times. More squirrelly bike handling and split brakes weren't entirely to blame (well, poor player handling of those of of course) but also the Finland track which is definitely not my new favourite for races - too narrow and way too many collisions with the other riders.
- 85
- Manchester, UK
I'm using joint brakes. As a biker, I'd like to use split brakes, but a controller doesn't give you enough feel to use them effectively (in my opinion of course) Brake earlier than you think for corners, watch your racing line, and gently keep some power on as you go through the bend. You can trail brake in corners, but you need to be gentle, and avoid doing it in the wet at all.
All my own personal preference of course, but I like to have braked early enough to have the bike steady before the corner, and then just apply enough throttle going through it and accelerate out. Not had too many spills so far.
Oh and somebody mentioned about the A.I's names. It's weird as I'm sure it started off with whatever names the devs gave them, but now mine uses real player names as well.....which I wish you could turn off to be honest.
All my own personal preference of course, but I like to have braked early enough to have the bike steady before the corner, and then just apply enough throttle going through it and accelerate out. Not had too many spills so far.
Oh and somebody mentioned about the A.I's names. It's weird as I'm sure it started off with whatever names the devs gave them, but now mine uses real player names as well.....which I wish you could turn off to be honest.
- 862
- Northamptonshire
- Ryanswannell
In reality the majority of braking, if not all of it when coming up to a corner should be from the front brakes, as most of the bikes weight is transferred to the front wheel. Using the rear brake in this situation can lock the rear wheel very easily as it it barely on the ground, which can start to unsettle the motorcycle.
The rear brake should mostly be used to tighten the line you are taking when on the corner, such as when you are running wide of the apex or negotiating really tight hairpin.
I'm not sure if you have watched any motorcycle racing, particularly the motogp class, but these guys will often take a V-shaped racing line around hairpin bends, using the rear brake to pivot the motorcycle like a handbrake turn would in a car. This is to ensure a straight braking entry and on-throttle exit, keeping the bike as stable as possible when braking and accelerating.
It's far from easy to get right but it will shave huge amounts from your lap times when you can get it correct.
I recommend watching some videos of Marc Marquez, who is the master of using the rear brake (and throttle!) to slide his bike around corners.
- 1,665
- Bristol
- MrCrynox
- Mr Crynox
So we should only use the rear brake AFTER finishing using the front brake and BEFORE getting back on the gas ? Just to scrub off a bit more speed whilst starting to lean toward the apex ?
- 862
- Northamptonshire
- Ryanswannell
Brake hard coming up to the corner entry, turn the bike towards the apex, then press the rear brake while at lean to turn the back end around and then apply throttle to slide the bike around further if necessary. Applying the rear brake for too long will lead to a lowside crash. Applying too much throttle and then lifting off will cause a highside crash.
Once you know for certain that you can apply throttle without lifting back off, straighten the bike up and accelerate out of the corner.
It's much easier to practice on a supermoto bike, then try on a 600-750cc machine. It's very hard to do on a Superbike, but you'll be much faster when you can do it.
- 1,665
- Bristol
- MrCrynox
- Mr Crynox
Playing Ride 2, (my first proper attempt at playing a decent bike game), I have tried the approach of using the rear brake only whilst off gas and starting to lean into the corner to scrub off excess speed that I haven't been able to reduce from using the front brake alone and it seems to work. Ive played plenty of car games but I'm no real life biker. I wanted to check what those who know what their doing, do.
- 862
- Northamptonshire
- Ryanswannell
IOM TT is a terrible game from a handling perspective, but great visually, and a fantastic feat to have recreated such a long circuit so accurately.
Like I said though, the handling is dog:censored:. It's like the entire tyre is made from ice as braking or accelerating too heavily sends the bike into some weird sideways motion which just doesn't happen on a motorcycle, and you always feel like you are steering some kind of boat rather than a highly strung race bike. In fact it baffles me how the game ever made it past the Alpha development stage with such terrible handling. Ride is much easier to use, though probably not entirely realistic.
If I were to compare the handling of the two games to current car games, I'd say IOM TT handles like Need for speed 2015 (entirely unpredictable, just terrible with very little thought put into it) and Ride 3 would be like GT Sport ( easy to get used to, perfectly acceptable but could be more realistic with a little more effort).
Hope this helps.👍
- 8,721
In addition, or as an alternative to, what @Ryanswannell said above, I would recommend using the front brake only until you get a better feel for things. I may have accidentally written a bit of an essay to explain my point of view...
Using the rear brake in the wrong place can and will upset the bike at track pace. On the road it's generally advocated as the safer option, and I've alternated between rear only (except in emergencies...) and front only on the road and prefer the feel of front end biased braking in most conditions, plus it means I can draw on my mountain biking experience / reflexes (which is relevant to a point, so get out there!)
In the game, using only the front brake means you can quickly learn the threshold of grip up to the point you low-side out of the corner (the feedback of applied braking force is lacking slightly, but keep at it). The tyre model is actually really forgiving, I've had several front end slides from locking up on the brakes in this game already that I was able to recover from, and you can hear it squeal. My real life experience tells me that a lock up at any angle of lean will very quickly drop the bike, and you'll be so very lucky to get it back if you weren't expecting it (unless you're off-road where front end skids are always happening).
Trail braking is very important on a bike in general for a few reasons (more front end grip, better tracing of ideal line by controlling speed etc.). Similar to a car, you have to reduce the force as you begin to turn, doubly since you are leaned over. This game is very forgiving in terms of how hard you can brake when leaned over at speed (as is real life if you have good technique, by keeping the tyres properly loaded), but less so as you slow down, meaning you are more likely to bin it nearer the apex.
Sort of contrary to the above advice, unless you lock it up, using the rear brake actually widens your line at a constant speed - this is partly because of the effect of the resulting change in geometry on each tyre's load (grip) and partly because of the turning moment of each tyre around the bike's C.o.G. relative to its inertia. It's the reduction in speed that ultimately tightens your line, so doing it in a way that doesn't force you wide first is generally better.
In the ideal case, the front brake should be used to steer the bike into the corner, at least initially - this is because this is where the most grip is, certainly, but also it pitches the bike forward, sharpening the steering. If used alone, the rear brake, as I alluded to above, actually acts to compress the rear suspension, limiting load transfer to the front wheel. Some riders habitually scrub the front brake just before turn in, even if they don't need to slow down, because of how it affects front end feel.
In very fast sweeping corners, or just generally with bikes of low power where corner speed is paramount, using both brakes very slightly is the best way to scrub speed into a corner. Using this technique means you make best use of available grip at both ends to keep corner speeds high especially near the apex, whereas using just one brake might overwhelm that tyre and you will either slide or be forced to take the corner slower overall to avoid it.
This is very hard to do in the game because of the controls layout and lack of analogue rear brake by default (I use R2 / RT, as recommended by another member here, and the right stick for throttle / front brake). It's also very hard to do in real life, which is why racers in the low capacity classes still get a lot of respect, and why many of them can never transition successfully to "big bikes" due to the different corner entry style (stop, turn, squirt: the V shape) - as well as the profound chassis effects caused by all that power.
I'm not quite up to speed with the controls in the new game, and I currently mainly use the rear brake when I've run deep and have no more front end grip to exploit, and I am indeed actually trying to skid the rear around slightly. Sliding of any kind is more advanced and more likely to have you off the machine, so it's best to stick to learning speed control in all parts of a corner first, keeping it simple before pushing the envelope.
In the wet, where low grip levels limit the deceleration rate, the bias of grip front-to-rear during deceleration (load transfer) is not as great and the rear brake is more useful in general stopping duties - however, this should also be considered advanced technique in terms of your control inputs if using split brakes.
In the dry, I think the anti-stoppie control in the game makes the rear brake more effective in a straight line than it should be.
Some possibly helpful stuff on Wikipedia here.
Bear in mind engine braking has a huge effect, being applied only to the rear wheel - hence slipper clutches and tuneable engine braking strength on modern bikes.
What I used to do in RIDE 2 was brake very hard using both brakes for the straight-line portion, then release the rear and feather the front as I turn in. From there, continually and gradually bleeding off braking power (observing how quickly my line is tightening). Finally, I feed in a very slight amount of rear brake again (with the front still on, as above) to sort of plant the bike on the apex. Some bikes did not like the use of rear brake during the hard braking phase, tending to lose stability or slide wide on turn in, so I adjusted my style accordingly.
The hard part is balancing all of this with the steering, because it's very easy to turn in too early or too late and not match your speed for the effective corner radius as it changes along the racing line through a corner. Luckily, thanks to their narrowness and their relative power, bikes can exploit any of many racing lines in most corners without too much penalty (gifting overtaking opportunities notwithstanding).
Depending on the corner, you may want to have picked up a neutral throttle (never coast off-throttle; again, it slows the steering down and pushes you wide) before the apex or just as you hit it, but typically there will be some element of waiting for the bike to turn before you begin to fully open her up - on all but the most powerful of machines, or in certain hairpins, this waiting on a smooth line actually means you've got it right.
One exercise for training this sense is to use the throttle to steer: rolling on the throttle pushes you wide, feather (don't chop) it off to tuck in again. Cadwell Park's Chris Corner is a great place to practice this on a 300 class machine - tip in, meet the "apex" at the curb: wait on a neutral throttle; then feed it in and gradually use all of the track's width. Trail braking is very much similar in terms of its ability to alter your trajectory and you can use it to control your line in a similar way: more (light) braking tightens the line; no braking, no throttle will run you deeper / wider. The entry to the Gooseneck chicane, after Chris Curve, is a great place to practice that. Then try it on a 600, where those two corners become one.
In the game, using only the front brake means you can quickly learn the threshold of grip up to the point you low-side out of the corner (the feedback of applied braking force is lacking slightly, but keep at it). The tyre model is actually really forgiving, I've had several front end slides from locking up on the brakes in this game already that I was able to recover from, and you can hear it squeal. My real life experience tells me that a lock up at any angle of lean will very quickly drop the bike, and you'll be so very lucky to get it back if you weren't expecting it (unless you're off-road where front end skids are always happening).
Trail braking is very important on a bike in general for a few reasons (more front end grip, better tracing of ideal line by controlling speed etc.). Similar to a car, you have to reduce the force as you begin to turn, doubly since you are leaned over. This game is very forgiving in terms of how hard you can brake when leaned over at speed (as is real life if you have good technique, by keeping the tyres properly loaded), but less so as you slow down, meaning you are more likely to bin it nearer the apex.
Sort of contrary to the above advice, unless you lock it up, using the rear brake actually widens your line at a constant speed - this is partly because of the effect of the resulting change in geometry on each tyre's load (grip) and partly because of the turning moment of each tyre around the bike's C.o.G. relative to its inertia. It's the reduction in speed that ultimately tightens your line, so doing it in a way that doesn't force you wide first is generally better.
In the ideal case, the front brake should be used to steer the bike into the corner, at least initially - this is because this is where the most grip is, certainly, but also it pitches the bike forward, sharpening the steering. If used alone, the rear brake, as I alluded to above, actually acts to compress the rear suspension, limiting load transfer to the front wheel. Some riders habitually scrub the front brake just before turn in, even if they don't need to slow down, because of how it affects front end feel.
In very fast sweeping corners, or just generally with bikes of low power where corner speed is paramount, using both brakes very slightly is the best way to scrub speed into a corner. Using this technique means you make best use of available grip at both ends to keep corner speeds high especially near the apex, whereas using just one brake might overwhelm that tyre and you will either slide or be forced to take the corner slower overall to avoid it.
This is very hard to do in the game because of the controls layout and lack of analogue rear brake by default (I use R2 / RT, as recommended by another member here, and the right stick for throttle / front brake). It's also very hard to do in real life, which is why racers in the low capacity classes still get a lot of respect, and why many of them can never transition successfully to "big bikes" due to the different corner entry style (stop, turn, squirt: the V shape) - as well as the profound chassis effects caused by all that power.
I'm not quite up to speed with the controls in the new game, and I currently mainly use the rear brake when I've run deep and have no more front end grip to exploit, and I am indeed actually trying to skid the rear around slightly. Sliding of any kind is more advanced and more likely to have you off the machine, so it's best to stick to learning speed control in all parts of a corner first, keeping it simple before pushing the envelope.
In the wet, where low grip levels limit the deceleration rate, the bias of grip front-to-rear during deceleration (load transfer) is not as great and the rear brake is more useful in general stopping duties - however, this should also be considered advanced technique in terms of your control inputs if using split brakes.
In the dry, I think the anti-stoppie control in the game makes the rear brake more effective in a straight line than it should be.
Some possibly helpful stuff on Wikipedia here.
Bear in mind engine braking has a huge effect, being applied only to the rear wheel - hence slipper clutches and tuneable engine braking strength on modern bikes.
What I used to do in RIDE 2 was brake very hard using both brakes for the straight-line portion, then release the rear and feather the front as I turn in. From there, continually and gradually bleeding off braking power (observing how quickly my line is tightening). Finally, I feed in a very slight amount of rear brake again (with the front still on, as above) to sort of plant the bike on the apex. Some bikes did not like the use of rear brake during the hard braking phase, tending to lose stability or slide wide on turn in, so I adjusted my style accordingly.
The hard part is balancing all of this with the steering, because it's very easy to turn in too early or too late and not match your speed for the effective corner radius as it changes along the racing line through a corner. Luckily, thanks to their narrowness and their relative power, bikes can exploit any of many racing lines in most corners without too much penalty (gifting overtaking opportunities notwithstanding).
Depending on the corner, you may want to have picked up a neutral throttle (never coast off-throttle; again, it slows the steering down and pushes you wide) before the apex or just as you hit it, but typically there will be some element of waiting for the bike to turn before you begin to fully open her up - on all but the most powerful of machines, or in certain hairpins, this waiting on a smooth line actually means you've got it right.
One exercise for training this sense is to use the throttle to steer: rolling on the throttle pushes you wide, feather (don't chop) it off to tuck in again. Cadwell Park's Chris Corner is a great place to practice this on a 300 class machine - tip in, meet the "apex" at the curb: wait on a neutral throttle; then feed it in and gradually use all of the track's width. Trail braking is very much similar in terms of its ability to alter your trajectory and you can use it to control your line in a similar way: more (light) braking tightens the line; no braking, no throttle will run you deeper / wider. The entry to the Gooseneck chicane, after Chris Curve, is a great place to practice that. Then try it on a 600, where those two corners become one.
In short, keep it simple first. Use only the front brake and brake in plenty of time. Then start braking a bit later, to force some gentle trail braking.
Practice speed control in all parts of the corner by bringing in more trail braking and subtle throttle inputs to control the line, all whilst keeping your steering inputs as smooth as possible. You might be going "slow", but the feeling of flow is nice in itself and something to build on.
Stick to the road tyres at first, they slide more easily but are more forgiving when they do - perfect for learning. A smooth line and the "easy" difficulty setting will be more than enough to beat the AI at this stage.
In the interest of learning good technique, it's important to practice with a slower bike (the 125s are marginally "too slow" for this, very challenging to get the most out of), as you have more time to process the steering / racing line situation most of the time and you don't have the power to cover your corner entry sins. But a blast on the faster bikes, aside from being fun, will show you how far you've come and just what a difference all that power makes
I haven't bought Ride 3 yet, I got Ride 1 and 2 the day they came out. Ride 3 from every video I have seen and the opinions of people I know who have it says, there is no sense of realism compared to 2. I see some people saying online that it is more realistic.
Can anyone here give me examples of what is better about the handling, or what is worse?
The main things that put me off Ride 3:
Seeing people with no TCS on 1000cc superbikes, slamming full throttle on out of a 1st gear corner with no traction loss or drama, it doesn't even look like TCS has any use.
I saw people say that the bike lean angle changes with different tyres.
I heard there is too much understeer.
I have only seen one video with a bike getting slight rear end sliding on throttle, but didn't look like it was possible to over do it and low side like in ride 2.
Can anyone here give me examples of what is better about the handling, or what is worse?
The main things that put me off Ride 3:
Seeing people with no TCS on 1000cc superbikes, slamming full throttle on out of a 1st gear corner with no traction loss or drama, it doesn't even look like TCS has any use.
I saw people say that the bike lean angle changes with different tyres.
I heard there is too much understeer.
I have only seen one video with a bike getting slight rear end sliding on throttle, but didn't look like it was possible to over do it and low side like in ride 2.
- 81
- Hill1975
Bought it on PC yesterday and its like they have dumbed down the physics. Can no longer get the rear squirming coming out of the corners like you can in Ride 2......Very disappointed.
- 1
- United States
I actually came here to see if this was a bug. Even on pro physics, every assist turned off including TCS and anti-wheelie, TCS will STILL kick on (the indicator lights up red) and there’s some sort of anti-wheelie as well that seems to use TCS. It’s not the same as actually using anti-wheelie, but it definitely limits your wheelie with TCS
SUPER annoying
- 26
- Netherlands
Yeah, disconnecting from the Milestone servers fixed that issue for me, no more PSN ID's as opponents in career. thank you
Oh allright, cheers.
Yeah, i had a feeling the TC was incorrect.
I always turn it off, but i had no power slides coming out of corners. turned TC to low, and suddenly the bike slides way more...
So something's defenitely not right with the TC OFF setting.
Anti-wheelie seems to work though. its set to off, and i get plenty of wheelies when opening up the throttle
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