RIDE 3

  • Thread starter DarthMosco
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Vdub171
I actually came here to see if this was a bug. Even on pro physics, every assist turned off including TCS and anti-wheelie, TCS will STILL kick on (the indicator lights up red) and there’s some sort of anti-wheelie as well that seems to use TCS. It’s not the same as actually using anti-wheelie, but it definitely limits your wheelie with TCS

SUPER annoying
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I noticed that too. In the video of the bike that I mentioned that was getting slight sideways on throttle, I noticed when watching, that TCS light was not lighting up when the wheel was spinning, unlike every other video I watched the TCS was still lighting up with TCS off. I hope it's bug and they will fix it.
 
I was just playing some of the early race series today and I noticed this game has the same problem I noticed on Ride 2. Bike PP means nothing and the best way to win a race is to see what bike the lead A.I is using and buy that bike. An example, I was racing against a Suzuki RG500 with 412PP I had a Ducati monster 696 with 406PP. I got absolutely murdered by it, It was just driving away from me when I was on maximum attack.

So I went and bought an RG500 myself tuned to 415PP and then won the same race with no effort by over 20 seconds. The a.i turned up with bikes tuned to 430PP and were putting in laps 20 seconds slower than my bike at 415PP. This is the race end screen and just look at the PP rating and fastest lap.
Ride3%20%20%2003_12_2018%2010_24_33_zpstuenlnp1.png
 
Am I the only one having issues with the season pass from the special edition? After redeeming it, the first 2 DLC packs are not unlocked for free and still available for money. This is happening on the EU version for PS4.

Unfortunately the customer support link is down, so nobody can report it. :D
 
I'm loving it so far. I played Ride 1 and 2, so I expected the AI to be terrible. I'm just enjoying riding all the different bikes on the new tracks, which are recreated pretty well. I treat each race as if it's just me going for some hot laps. I set the difficulty to 20% to avoid frustration. This way I still get the satisfaction of completing all the races and collecting the bikes, without getting mad about AI.
 
FUN FACT - California's The Snake is actually real. I think it's the first time they've made a road track that is somewhat accurate to a real road.

THE GOOD - Bike selection is great. Track selection is great too.

THE BAD - Supermoto sucks (both physics and track selection), the AI ignores you, the pace of the AI is all over the place (I get obliterated on Road America but win by 10 seconds per lap on The Snake), the performance points mean nothing, the races tend to be locked to laps so you get rather silly things like 3 laps on Cadwell (short), Brands (kinda short) and the Ulster GP (long)...

IMPORTANT BIKES MISSING (by displacement)
· Aprilia RS250
· The Japanese 400cc 4-cylinder bikes, at least 1 per brand
· Honda NS400R
· Honda VFR750 (RC30)
· One of the final Suzuki GSX-R750

BIKES THAT ARE MISCATEGORIZED
· The smaller Ducatis (748 and so on) should be in the SSP class with race mod and all
· The Ducati 851 should be racing against the other TTF1 bikes of the time

BIKES THAT SHOULD HAVE ITS OWN CLASS
· Yamaha YZR500 OW23
· The 636cc Kawasakis

PS: I want to race against riders with real names. The devs used to add some personality with the AI riders but now it's just random people with awful/repetitive gear selection.
 
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bluemoon_19
I was just playing some of the early race series today and I noticed this game has the same problem I noticed on Ride 2. Bike PP means nothing and the best way to win a race is to see what bike the lead A.I is using and buy that bike. An example, I was racing against a Suzuki RG500 with 412PP I had a Ducati monster 696 with 406PP. I got absolutely murdered by it, It was just driving away from me when I was on maximum attack.

So I went and bought an RG500 myself tuned to 415PP and then won the same race with no effort by over 20 seconds. The a.i turned up with bikes tuned to 430PP and were putting in laps 20 seconds slower than my bike at 415PP. This is the race end screen and just look at the PP rating and fastest lap.
Ride3%20%20%2003_12_2018%2010_24_33_zpstuenlnp1.png
Click to expand...

That's certainly the uninteresting way to approach the races, but the game hardly offers an alternative as, once again, the events allow a weird combination of bikes in some cases. Why is an RG500 even competing against the 696?

Despite having an extra crankshaft and a jackshaft, two extra cylinders and carbs etc. as well as liquid cooling (and being 20 years older), the RG is no heavier than the Monster but has 15 bhp more stock - keep it on the pipes and gear it properly and it will walk away on technical and high speed circuits alike. Additionally, the Monster will hit a brick wall of air resistance, whereas the faired RG will slip through to a higher top speed even with the same power.

In this game, cornering speed is dictated by lean angle, and lean angle is determined by ground clearance and is not directly modifiable (e.g. with higher "rearset" foot pegs). The 696 is low to the ground for short people (compared to its 796 and especially 1100 cc cousins), so it may well have less lean angle available and so simply won't go around corners as fast, even on better tyres. You can add preload to both ends to make the bike sit higher, but I'm unsure if the benefits are just in agility or if it recalculates / adjusts the maximum lean angle - try it out. Many bikes actually clip through the ground at full lean, so it may just be set manually, individually or by category or something else entirely.


PP is certainly still useless; use simple physics instead. Even then, the numbers are not always accurate, both as compared to the real bike and to what the game appears to use in the physics vs. what is displayed in the dealership. In any case, power to weight ratio is still the best indicator of relative performance. The power figure alone is more important if traveling flat out for long periods. A torquey motor pulls better out of corners and is less sensitive to gearing.

I like to pick a bike that lets me hang with the leaders on the straights and then tune the AI difficulty until they are not getting in the way in the corners - which often depends on how well I know the track and what tyres the AI are randomly assigned. You do have to do the work to find the right level of challenge, unfortunately.

Luckily cash is more readily attainable in this game, so the odd wrong purchase to probe the competition is not a catastrophe.
 
Griffith500
That's certainly the uninteresting way to approach the races, but the game hardly offers an alternative as, once again, the events allow a weird combination of bikes in some cases. Why is an RG500 even competing against the 696?

Despite having an extra crankshaft and a jackshaft, two extra cylinders and carbs etc. as well as liquid cooling (and being 20 years older), the RG is no heavier than the Monster but has 15 bhp more stock - keep it on the pipes and gear it properly and it will walk away on technical and high speed circuits alike. Additionally, the Monster will hit a brick wall of air resistance, whereas the faired RG will slip through to a higher top speed even with the same power.

In this game, cornering speed is dictated by lean angle, and lean angle is determined by ground clearance and is not directly modifiable (e.g. with higher "rearset" foot pegs). The 696 is low to the ground for short people (compared to its 796 and especially 1100 cc cousins), so it may well have less lean angle available and so simply won't go around corners as fast, even on better tyres. You can add preload to both ends to make the bike sit higher, but I'm unsure if the benefits are just in agility or if it recalculates / adjusts the maximum lean angle - try it out. Many bikes actually clip through the ground at full lean, so it may just be set manually, individually or by category or something else entirely.


PP is certainly still useless; use simple physics instead. Even then, the numbers are not always accurate, both as compared to the real bike and to what the game appears to use in the physics vs. what is displayed in the dealership. In any case, power to weight ratio is still the best indicator of relative performance. The power figure alone is more important if traveling flat out for long periods. A torquey motor pulls better out of corners and is less sensitive to gearing.

I like to pick a bike that lets me hang with the leaders on the straights and then tune the AI difficulty until they are not getting in the way in the corners - which often depends on how well I know the track and what tyres the AI are randomly assigned. You do have to do the work to find the right level of challenge, unfortunately.

Luckily cash is more readily attainable in this game, so the odd wrong purchase to probe the competition is not a catastrophe.
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I don't know anything really about bikes but all the stuff you just said comparing the 2 bikes mentioned was pretty much exactly what i saw in game too. I agree it is a boring way to go about the races, I would just like to pick the bike I like the look of most and have a far chance of winning but as noted the game doesn't really let you do that.

@die996 I totally agree on the point with the races all being 2 or 3 laps no matter the length, who decided at milestone that was a good idea?
 
I'm not having any luck with the supermoto bikes. Looks like I'm going to have to dumb the game down to have any chance of winning on them.
 
The refined handling and control as well as the availability of smaller bikes is already making this feel like playing an up-to-date and expanded Tourist Trophy, which is excellent and pretty much seals my verdict on the game. :) It took a bit of time to adjust to it, but I've now gold trophy'd all of the riding school lessons and am pretty comfortable across all the types of bikes.

I'm impressed with what they pulled off with the dampening on leaning/steering. It seems a little on the sensitive side at first, but does its job of limiting twitchy reactions and promoting high-speed stability while also enabling you to switch directions, make an evasive maneuver, or complete low-speed turns promptly, as others were mentioning earlier. It even "feels" right, not too heavy or weightless.

The physics are superb. Relatively forgiving, but intuitive and convincing. I have noticed the apparent TCS bug and I hope that gets fixed, but it only seems to occur some of the time for me. Otherwise, using the rear brake or throttle to help pivot around or lightly powerslide out of a corner feels great. I may have fallen in love with supermoto... :)

It's unfortunate that the career mode is still hit-and-miss in typical Milestone fashion, but so far it seems more balanced and well-thought-out than in the original Ride. Graphics and audio overall are also about what you can expect from a Milestone game -- but that's fine, aside from a less-than-ideal framerate on my standard PS4 when there's enough going on. What bothers me most is the online crap they've forced upon us this time -- is it not possible to paint the damned fairing a single color without creating a livery with one hidden decal and sharing it online?

Anyway, it's not without its issues, but it gets two big thumbs up from me. 👍 👍
 
SOME MORE BAD STUFF I'VE FOUND

· The penalties from jumping chicanes are not very harsh at all. In places like Monza, Daytona and SUGO you can get better lap times and race times if you jump the chicanes.

· The AI can get insanely fast at points for no apparent reason, cornering speed so high you will crash no doubt if you try to follow them.

· There is at least ONE impossible time attack: Nakeds Special - Magny Cours. It is specially hilarious once you find out that in Naked Trophy you have the same time attack but for race-modified bikes... and the lap time they ask you to do is SLOWER. Someone screwed up big time!!!

· Both Nurburgring and Monza have their much sharper CAR CHICANES instead of the easier motorbike ones. :banghead: This one probably hurts me more than it should.

· The AI line on Oulton Park's main straight is rather interesting. This creates something very interesting when starting a race: the AI tries to take you down!

BTW, if anyone wants to report bugs to Milestone, go over here and explain the stuff as best as possible.
 
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Loving the game on PS4. Helmet cam works great with all assists off.
The NSR 250 is so much fun!


Question, pre-ordered the game but did not receive any dlc code.
Anybody who might have a spare EU code?


Make sure the money you win is added to your account before pressing Continue.
On PS4 I noticed this bug. Pressing X before money is added (lower left of screen) you lose the money :/
 
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ABOUT DUAL BRAKING on RIDE 3

When I first started playing this game I used to slow down with both front and rear brakes but that made the bike rather unstable even on a straight, I crashed a ton of times under braking. After some more hours I've noticed that you are supposed to slow down using only the front brake. WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON? That's not how riding a motorbike works. The rear brake is mostly useless!
 
die996
ABOUT DUAL BRAKING on RIDE 3

When I first started playing this game I used to slow down with both front and rear brakes but that made the bike rather unstable even on a straight, I crashed a ton of times under braking. After some more hours I've noticed that you are supposed to slow down using only the front brake. WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON? That's not how riding a motorbike works. The rear brake is mostly useless!
Click to expand...

Yeah this bothers me too. I was taught 70% front brake and 30% rear when braking in a straight line. Hitting both L2 and X in a straight line will initiate a tank-slapper. I hope Milestone fixes this.
 
I use R2/RT for the rear brake, and then control the throttle and front brake with the right analog stick and shift gears with L1/LB and R1/RB, which is kind of based on the control layout of a bike and allows for analog control of both brakes. 👍

Without that level of control it's about as good as a handbrake button.
 
die996
ABOUT DUAL BRAKING on RIDE 3

When I first started playing this game I used to slow down with both front and rear brakes but that made the bike rather unstable even on a straight, I crashed a ton of times under braking. After some more hours I've noticed that you are supposed to slow down using only the front brake. WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON? That's not how riding a motorbike works. The rear brake is mostly useless!
Click to expand...

Read 'A Twist of the Wrist II.', think you'll understand braking better.
Rear braking does make the bike unstable.
 
Some of those old men would be riding in the 50s, 60s, 70s, when people would be killed, if the crashed hard. No great helmets, leathers, or safety, so they did really well too survive.
 
Done some brake testing and all works fine on PS4.
No unstable bike or crashing when using both brakes or front or rear only.
Only unstable/crash if you use the wrong body position. Physics are just fine.
 
I picked this up the other day, I really enjoyed Ride 2 so I figured I'd like Ride 3 as well. I don't really understand the physics behind motorcycles since I've only ever ridden dirt bikes, so I play with a whole host of assists, but it's still pretty fun. Right now I'm enjoying the Yamaha R3 since it handles pretty well and it's the right balance of power and control, at least for me, right now.

I wish there was more customization options though, I like to personalize my vehicles in racing games and the options seem pretty meh. Not the end of the world though.
 
Joey D
I don't really understand the physics behind motorcycles since I've only ever ridden dirt bikes, so I play with a whole host of assists, but it's still pretty fun.
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Ages 7-15 = Dirtbikes, mostly enduro, from 50cc to 85cc
Ages 18-22 = Streetbikes, naked and sport, up to 100hp
Once when I was 19 = Someone let me ride a 250cc GP bike for club racing (90hp and like 115kg without fuel) on a racetrack.

I can tell you that your motorbike experience is very unrelated to RIDE 3. These bikes ask you to brake stupidly late, you don't lowside unless you've braked wayyy too late, the attack points on the faster bits are "odd" to say the least... It's a cool game but it's nowhere near realistic, it's all over the place. If I'd have to compare it to a car racing game I'd say it's closer to FORZA Motorsport or even Horizon than to GT Sport. I know that level of realism would be unforgiving to the point of being annoying but I gotta admit I still want it.
 
I'm pretty mad that I can't change the paint scheme for the CBR 300R. Mine is black and yellow but the game only features the Repsol livery. Lots of other bikes have paint options...I haven't checked if there's a livery editor like GT Sport. If there is, I'll spend however long it takes to recreate my bike.
 
My review



MidFieldMaven
I'm pretty mad that I can't change the paint scheme for the CBR 300R. Mine is black and yellow but the game only features the Repsol livery. Lots of other bikes have paint options...I haven't checked if there's a livery editor like GT Sport. If there is, I'll spend however long it takes to recreate my bike.
Click to expand...
It has a livery editor
 
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Today we are onboard on all of the unlocked Aprilia's.

Motorcycles included in the video;
- RS 125 1999
- RS 125R 1998
- RSV 1000 R 2003
- RSV Mille Tuono 2004
- RSV 1000 R 2009
- RSV 1000 SP 2000
- Tuono V4 Factory 2015
- RSV4 RF 2015
- RSV4 RR 2015
- Team Nuova M2 Racing 2017

If you like these kind of video's and series.

Feel free to leave your feedback in the comment section.
Also leave a like and subscribe to my channel if you want to keep up to date when new video's are uploaded!

Share this Video;

Grab your beer, diet coke and popcorn we are here, enjoy!

 
MidFieldMaven
Yeah this bothers me too. I was taught 70% front brake and 30% rear when braking in a straight line. Hitting both L2 and X in a straight line will initiate a tank-slapper. I hope Milestone fixes this.
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In real life I use mainly front brakes [BMW S1000RR] in sport mode and in general it's quite stable, but when riding in race mode, I add slight rear brakes right at the end of the braking stage as to induce some oversteer for better/earlier corner exit.

I have very little bike gaming experience and Ride 3 is my first [so don't shoot me pse], but by doing the same in game the rear brake does indeed causes the same oversteer and even a typical Marques slide sometimes which improves my corner speed [if I succeed in controlling it:lol:]. I don't have enough credits yet to buy and test my real life bike in game yet, but using rear brakes in similar manner on lower cc bikes seems to work equally good in game.
 
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