@
Team THRT Drift
I rather dig the look of that Dodge, I am a big fan of older Dodge trucks.
Here's a breakdown for you, based on his list of stuff.
The differentials,
Dana 70 rear, 4.10gears.
Dana 60 front, 4.10 gears.
I also have the transfer case out of the 350 but I don't have the number handy.
The Dana 70 is a rear axle found under many diesel trucks and is known for it's strong weight capacity and strength. The Dana 60 is nearly as good, but there are some differences. A D60 is a solid front and rear axle and makes this beast much more capable offroad.
As far as the transfer case, I'm guessing it's something from NP or New Process Gear as they were big in the truck world at the time (and still are). He doesn't mention the number but I wouldn't consider that a red flag, most NP T-cases are bullet proof and if I had to take a guess it's either a NP208 or NP205. The 208 is gear driven and aluminum but has a lower 4WD gear ratio than the 205, but the 205 has the advantage in strength since it's made of steel and is gear driven. Most serious offroaders opt for the 205's strength but both are good for daily driving and light useage.
The Transmission,
727A built by Mclaughlins transmission, shift kit, and high stall torque convertor to match the engines output.
The 727 TorqueFlite is a 3 speed automatic transmission. The shift kit will help it shift smoother, the only thing that worries me is the high stall converter. This might not affect much due to the power output of the engine if it's actually true (seems a bit high if you ask me). I would request what RPM stall it is if you consider buying the truck. Anything over 3,500rpm for his motor is pushing it for a truck.
The Engine
Built by Clifford Pertformance
408 stroker kit.
360 block
A 360 block is a decent but very common small block from Mopar, a nice start. The stroker kit increases the piston stroke in the cylinder to increase overall displacement to 408 cubic inches, or 6.7L. The bore size below adds about 14ci. (roughly)
Each of the cylinders was cut in diameter .040 (read: forty thousandths) of an inch larger than stock. They took a machine and basically cut and smoothed them to make the cylinder bore larger. Common practice...doesn't really make more power, it's more for just cleaning up the cylinder walls so they are fresh if you purchase a worn out engine block.
Forged SRP pistons. Compression Ratio, 10.8:1
Those are not cheap, especially for MOPAR. The compression ratio is somewhat high for a 360, so you'll need to run at least 91 octane. You can run 87 with an additive, but it's not recommended.
Cast Eagle crank, modified to a 4" stroke.
Ok, this guy really has some money into this motor. Eagle parts are some of the most expensive engine parts you can buy, ESPECIALLY a forged crank. The 4" stroke is correct for his listed displacement.
Reduces vibration, common on rebuilt motors. Just means that each part that is alike to another weighs exactly the same down to the ounce.
Aluminum Edelbrock heads.
I'd bet he's using Victor Jr. heads. Doesn't hurt to ask. Knowing what ones he used can mean the difference between 50 to 150 horsepower on these old engines.
Porting means the heads have been worked over. What that means is the diamter of the intake and exahust ports (the holes the gas/air goes in and exhaust out) have been made larger. This can help increase flow and port velocity (rate at which the stuff moves in and out) and can increase power, sometimes quite a bit. Stock heads suck!
As far as the "polished" part, ignore that. Doesn't mean anything. They didn't really polish anything.
one piece stainless valves
Ask what sizes (intake/exhaust). With the money he's dumped into this, they are probably over 2.02/1.60. Those are somewhat large. Good.
Valve springs are what he's refering too.
Melling high volume oil pump
Milodon off-road deep sump oil pan
This throws the oil around in the engine.
Clevite Cam Bearings
Comp cam gears and chain
Comp. cam camshaft with .545 lift
.545" of lift is rather high for a street motor. What you need to watch for is the RPM range it operates.
Ouch, this could be a deal breaker right here. It means this the RPM range the camshaft in this engine builds power...it's a truck, you want power to come on soon to move this tank. Starting at 2,500 is NOT good. You will have absolutely no bottom end at all under that RPM and will need to floor it (and still have sluggish performance until the cam comes alive) to get rolling.
Edelbrock manifold modified dual plane intake
2 inlets to the tunnels in the manifold.
Edelbrock 750 cfm re-jetted carb
ALL hardware ARP studs,bolts.
Re-jetted means the main jets that let gas in have been bumped up a size. 750cfm (750 cubic feet of air move through the carb per minute at wide open throttle) seems about right, maybe a bit high. ARP studs and bolts are high end stuff, very strong.
That's just some of what it has..
This Engine is a MONSTER, it produces serious power and sounds unreal.
Just by reading what he's posted, I do not doubt this for 1 second.
I have headman headers, that run into 3" stainless steel exhaust pipe that is a true dual exhaust and has two stainless steel thrush glasspacks that dump just in front of the rear diff. Truck also has an MSD ignition box with chip limiter, so it has not been overrevved. The body is rough, but don't forget its a truck that's over 30 years old. Your paying for all the goodies in the truck.
This engine comes with the build sheet, and a cd drive of the pictures of the build. There are tons of extra parts that will also come with truck.
$7500 obo, which trust me is a bargain, I have well over 15 000 just under the hood.
MUST GO!! Perfect summer project !! NEED IT GONE ! ASAP!
The body is meh, but if you can look past that, I think his asking price his fair. That motor alone sounds like its worth the $15k he says he's put in it.