TH8 RS Shifter Thread!

  • Thread starter sandboxgod
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Go Pro would be loads of fun. I've really considered grabbing one myself. Use it on dogs collars, Evo at drag strip. Out playing in snow with Jeep. Endless POV opportunities.

Yes using your current pod would work excellent. :) I record my GT5 videos using one. Strap iPhone and get it set to capture screen. Simply and decent video.

I can capture GT5 directly, since I have a Avermedia Live Gamer HD capture card. ;)
So yeah, I don't need a camera for screen captures.

It's this one for those interested: http://avermedia.com/product/ProductDetail.aspx?Id=571

Darn, my wish list keeps increasing:

- Finish my hydraulic handbrake
- Make a dashboard center console for shifter, handbrake plus add buttons with leds, some gauges, maybe a 12v sigarette lighter (for the heck of it) and an ignition key. Covered with nice leather and lacquered 3M carbon foil panel pieces. Oh and a leather arm rest to hide the handbrake reservoir (and not bump into it snapping something off etc). :)
- Get a nVidia Titan
- Get a Oculus Rift
- Get a GoPro
- Make a nice set of hydraulic pedals (if possible with a Tilton pedal box base)

Oh, and make sure everything works on the PS3 as well. So the pedals need to be able to talk directly via the T500. The handbrake and rest of buttons will go via an Arduino board with UnoJoy as its base code.
 
Great video Logi! 👍 👍
Will grab a few O-rings from the hardware store on my way home today!
Thanks much for taking your time and sharing this! :)
 
Great video Logi! 👍 👍
Will grab a few O-rings from the hardware store on my way home today!
Thanks much for taking your time and sharing this! :)

Will look forward to your impressions. :sly:
I just bought a box with multiple sizes. It wasn't that expensive and you never know what they might be handy for in the future.
Maybe I should also have gotten the assortment box with springs as well, in hindsight that is (for future use). :indiff:
 
ps. After I made the video I also removed the cap as I felt some notchiness. It seems it was the spring coils rubbing against each other. So to smooth this out I removed the black cap and used a good bit of white vaseline all around which shouldn't harm it at all. All is now nice and smooth. Of course you can use ball bearing grease or something alike instead, as long as the chemicals in the grease do not damage plastic and metal.

Logi, is this notchiness you referred to a result of the O-ring mod? Or unrelated? What is the black cap you are referring. Thanks.
 
Logi, is this notchiness you referred to a result of the O-ring mod? Or unrelated? What is the black cap you are referring. Thanks.

The notchiness is just the coils of the spring hooking into each other a bit and then suddenly letting go when they get stretched due to the movement in the neutral zone.

So yeah, it (the notchiness) was there already but just got enhanced by having that extra pressure of the o-rings on there.
I am sure it is just my shifter alone though. I have a first batch shifter with a very low number (xxxxx158 or something alike). So if you don't feel it, don't bother with it.

The black cap is what holds that spring in place, with the red dot of paint on its screw. So be careful if you remove it as warranty will most likely be void and the spring can come at you. So use a finger to hold the spring in place when removing.

Edit:
This cap...
f2275796573220f9c2bbe9b718c974c3d7be973cac6810bdfac83df5046c2a4c6g.jpg
 
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Edit:
Almost the same as this guy did here, but just with O-rings (which looks much cleaner).
As you can see the metal legs sticking out from the red rubber elastic band. You need to make sure the o-rings stick together.

ps. Will make a video tomorrow. ;)

That image you showed was from my 1st attempt which I think lasted a day. I actually use it like this so that it's stiffer fore-aft as well as lateral. Of course a more permanent solution would be better.
IMG_3634-Copy_zpseafb22d8.jpg

IMG_3635-1_zps4e89592a.jpg


Video of it with short shift plate
 
My gearbox, where you changes the gear of the car!!! It doesn't work on my ps3!!! It even doesn't detect it!!!

On PS3 the TH8 works only in combination with the T500 wheel. And even then, only if the game supports it.
Without these two conditions met, the TH8 shifter will simply not work.


That image you showed was from my 1st attempt which I think lasted a day. I actually use it like this so that it's stiffer fore-aft as well as lateral. Of course a more permanent solution would be better.

Video of it with short shift plate

I was actually thinking of using two stiffness set screws, with a stiffer spring behind the ball.
Cause as you can see on your first picture, there is another hole and thread for a second one. Plus I know there are sockets on the plate it pushes against as well. ;)

If possible I also want to get screws with a Philips head in it, as it will be easier to turn without damaging it. Will have to go on a search for these parts still though.
 
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Then it should work. I suggest you try plugging the shifter into your PC and see if it recognizes it. If not, there is something wrong with the shifter and you will need to contact Thrustmaster support.
 
LogiForce just curious but does this mod help stiffen the resistance when using the TH8RS as an H-gate shifter? Does it add increased tension when shifting between gates?

Nope, just the movement through the neutral zone of the H-Shifter. Haven't even tried out sequential after the mod, just realised this.

What you could do to add stiffness is (like I said in my last post) get an extra adjustment screw and put that in the extra hole on the other side as where the current screw sits now.

I must add though that due to the extra pull to center the shifter handle, the shifter does sit more tightly into each gear. So it does feel different going into and out of gear, but it is not harder to go into gear. If that makes sense, as there is no added resistance.
 
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@Logiforce, I have a question for you about the o-rings you used for your shifter mod. What do the sizes you indicated represent? You said the o-rings are 11mm x 1.9mm. I assume the 1.9mm is the diameter of the material used to make the o-ring. What does the 11mm stand for? Is it the inner or outer diameter of the entire o-ring? Or is it the circumference?

I have access to some o-rings I can use, but they are imperial measurements and I need to make the conversion.
 
@Logiforce, I have a question for you about the o-rings you used for your shifter mod. What do the sizes you indicated represent? You said the o-rings are 11mm x 1.9mm. I assume the 1.9mm is the diameter of the material used to make the o-ring. What does the 11mm stand for? Is it the inner or outer diameter of the entire o-ring? Or is it the circumference?

I have access to some o-rings I can use, but they are imperial measurements and I need to make the conversion.

Outer Diameter X Ring Thickness.

So yes, 11mm outer diameter. Which is a tiny fraction smaller than a 7/16 inch.

I just grabbed what seemed about the right size by eye and added more rings till I liked the feel. Which happened to be 3. So feel free to experiment with other sizes as well. ;)

edit:
As far as inner diameter goes. It's just a simple deduction of the ring thickness from the outer diameter. So those two figures are technically enough information. :)
 
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What you could do to add stiffness is (like I said in my last post) get an extra adjustment screw and put that in the extra hole on the other side as where the current screw sits now.

Would you know the size of the extra screw to buy?
 
Nope, just the movement through the neutral zone of the H-Shifter. Haven't even tried out sequential after the mod, just realised this.

What you could do to add stiffness is (like I said in my last post) get an extra adjustment screw and put that in the extra hole on the other side as where the current screw sits now.


Can you tell me the size of the extra adjustment screw? thanks
 
It's most likely an M10 plunger screw as I measured a width of 9.89mm.
Just a reminder. Like the original screw you will need that foam stuff so the screw stays in place. Unfortunately I don't know what substance this is yet, so I can not tell you this.

Maybe someone else likes to make us a bit wiser about what that foam stuff is?
 
What you could do to add stiffness is (like I said in my last post) get an extra adjustment screw and put that in the extra hole on the other side as where the current screw sits now.

Would you know the size of the extra screw to buy?

Huh? I looks on the other side of my shifter and I don't see a hole there to put another tension screw. Pic?
 
Huh? I looks on the other side of my shifter and I don't see a hole there to put another tension screw. Pic?

Mind you, my shifter is shifter number 81 that came out of the factory after launch. So this hole might be gone in later models.



 
+1

The stock knob might look okay but it is so light and toy like. Worst part of the shifter. My relationship with the TH8 RS is definitely bittersweet. Do I like the shifter? Yes. Do I hate (not hate, "annoyed by" is a better description) the shifter? Yes.

Here's my knob from Product Innovations. Love the Delrin material and it's great how he can customise the fitting. Oops, me bad...for posting a Frex shifter in the TH8 RS thread. Oh well, just look at the knob ;-)

8-11-201210-18-45AM.jpg

Hello itrdc5. Your post has intrigued me to ask the following question....

Does this knob add any significant weight to the shifter over the stock TH8RS knob? I'm starting to wonder if I would benefit from having a heavier knob mounted to the shaft. Does it add any weight to the shifting feeling when shifting between gates? That's something I'm looking to add to my TH8RS.
 
Interesting. Because the TH8RS has just as many plastic parts as some of the other shifters I've used.

:confused: Do you have a TH8 shifter? Ive had mine apart and can tell you there is VERY little plastic used in its construction. Hell 95% of the plastic used is the top black cover and the sequential shift plate. All the moving parts are metal. :boggled:
 
I had an issue way back last year in this thread about the tension screw
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This is the result of over tightening the screw. Then it looses all tension very quickly
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREW
You want to still feel the stick click into gear

Y'know Carson, I wonder if it would be a good idea to put something over that groove part where the ball rubs against. What can I place there that would add some friction to the shifting? Some aluminum foil maybe? Some black duct tape?
 
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