TH8 RS Shifter Thread!

[isamu]

Do you have a TH8 shifter? Ive had mine apart and can tell you there is VERY little plastic used in its construction. Hell 95% of the plastic used is the top black cover and the sequential shift plate. All the moving parts are metal.

The most important part you mentioned....the top black cover IS plastic and that is where the toylike shift feeling is coming from. I think I'm going to need a shorter shift gate plate because the underplate is what the shaft is hitting and it's making shifting feel too toylike. Shifting into that plastic groove is DRIVING ME UP THE WALL!!! I want the shaft to hit something that's metal! To give it that knocking and locking into place feeling. I also want to replace the shaft itself because it's too light and has that plastic ring around it towards the bottom.

 

[isamu]

isamu,

Which wheel do you have?

The ECCI 7000

 

[isamu]

Finally, Derek Speare made some H Pattern Gate Plates for the Thrustmaster TH8 RS Shifter!
"If you have Thrustmaster's TH8 RS H-Pattern shifter, you can complement with a set of my gate plates. If you have a 4, 5 or 6 speed car of your choice, you can enhance the realism and feel with the right gate plate.

Each plate is precision laser cut from 1/8" ABS and will fit your shifter nicely (use washers from underneath as spacers). The plates are designed to keep you from having to recalibrate each time you change them as the positions are shared. Simple!"

Price is 33,75 USD - Free shipping worldwide!

For me, an instant buy! Very nice work Derek!
And very fast shipping - mine will be ship to me this afternoon and I already got the tracking info only 10 minutes after I ordered my gate plates!

I am intrigued by these DSD plates, but I get the feeling they don't cover the entire bottom plastic gate. Can anyone confirm whether they do or not?

 

[mrbasher]

The most important part you mentioned....the top black cover IS plastic and that is where the toylike shift feeling is coming from. I think I'm going to need a shorter shift gate plate because the underplate is what the shaft is hitting and it's making shifting feel too toylike. Shifting into that plastic groove is DRIVING ME UP THE WALL!!! I want the shaft to hit something that's metal! To give it that knocking and locking into place feeling. I also want to replace the shaft itself because it's too light and has that plastic ring around it towards the bottom.

Both items necessary to fix the issues that annoy you are available here: http://yipzone.com/simracing/th8rs_short_shaft and here http://yipzone.com/simracing/th8rs_short_shift

 

[isamu]

Both items necessary to fix the issues that annoy you are available here: http://yipzone.com/simracing/th8rs_short_shaft and here http://yipzone.com/simracing/th8rs_short_shift

Yeah you may be right. I may have to check into grabbing the rod and plate. I'd like to keep the long shift throw though, but it seems the only way to accomplish that would be to eliminate the plastic under plate and I'm not sure that's possible(?).

 

[isamu]

Can anyone confirm if it's possible to remove the H-pattern plastic cover from the shifter and leave it out of the equation entirely?

 

[JogoAsobi]

.

 

[itrdc5]

Yeah you may be right. I may have to check into grabbing the rod and plate. I'd like to keep the long shift throw though, but it seems the only way to accomplish that would be to eliminate the plastic under plate and I'm not sure that's possible(?).

Hi isamu

In answering your earlier question, I've not used the one pictured with the Frex Shift+ on the TH8RS. These are the shift knobs I use with my TH8 RS in H-pattern mode.

They are all heavier than the original knob.

I just saw on my own site, a link to this.

http://www.reidsupply.com/sku/GLS-135/

Totally forgot about it. A customer told me this worked great for him. Cheap as chips as well. If someone else tries it, please let us know how well it works.

Cheers
itrdc5

 

[isamu]

Hi isamu

In answering your earlier question, I've not used the one pictured with the Frex Shift+ on the TH8RS. These are the shift knobs I use with my TH8 RS in H-pattern mode.

They are all heavier than the original knob.

I just saw on my own site, a link to this.

http://www.reidsupply.com/sku/GLS-135/

Totally forgot about it. A customer told me this worked great for him. Cheap as chips as well. If someone else tries it, please let us know how well it works.

Cheers
itrdc5

Nice! Thanks for the reply itrdc5 it's appreciated. Those knobs look good.

Can no one else confirm if the underlying plastic cover can be removed?

 

[isamu]

Hey itrc.... are you the one that makes those short shift plates? If so, can you tell me what material this plate is made of:

Is it metal? If so, what kind of metal? Steel? Aluminum?

 

[itrdc5]

Hey itrc.... are you the one that makes those short shift plates? If so, can you tell me what material this plate is made of:

Is it metal? If so, what kind of metal? Steel? Aluminum?

3mm aluminium.

I don't see anything wrong with removing the plastic plate you mentioned except for:
1. You can't switch to sequential mode. You'll need to unplug the 2 wires connected to that plate.
2. You no longer have the cloth boot although I guess you can improvise.

Why not just try it and see how you like it and see if your shift damages the original aluminium plate. Although if damaged, don't blame me. I would try it but I don't know where I've placed my original plate.

With the short shift plate that I sell, the gates are smaller than that plastic plate's, so the gear stick doesn't come into contact with the plastic except for reverse gear. You can see it in the photo of the 555 plate.

 

[isamu]

3mm aluminium.

I don't see anything wrong with removing the plastic plate you mentioned except for:
1. You can't switch to sequential mode. You'll need to unplug the 2 wires connected to that plate.
2. You no longer have the cloth boot although I guess you can improvise.

Why not just try it and see how you like it and see if your shift damages the original aluminium plate. Although if damaged, don't blame me. I would try it but I don't know where I've placed my original plate.

With the short shift plate that I sell, the gates are smaller than that plastic plate's, so the gear stick doesn't come into contact with the plastic except for reverse gear. You can see it in the photo of the 555 plate.

Excellent. Thanks for the reply. I think what I might do is contact Thrustmaster and see if I can get them to send me replacement to this shaft part:

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=3741&pictureid=52490

Mine has worn out exactly as depicted in Carson's "damaged" pic. I think no amount of changing plates, shifter levers or knobs is going to help with the loose feeling I'm getting as a result of the grooves being flatened by overtightening the screw. If they don't send me that part, I'm afraid I'll have to go ahead and buy a new shifter altogether and then look into replacing the plates, levers and knobs.

 

[isamu]

I had an issue way back last year in this thread about the tension screw

[/IMG]
This is the result of over tightening the screw. Then it looses all tension very quickly
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREW
You want to still feel the stick click into gear

OK.... I have just taken aprt my TH8. Carson, can you please reply and tell me how to separate the shaft shown in the pic above from the base of the shifter? I see two things that look like they are bolted into each side of that shaft and can't figure out how to pry them apart.

itrdc?

 

[LogiForce]

The shaft is held by a bolt going through it, which is held in place by a C-clip. Just pry that clip off with a flat screwdriver and remove the bolt. The shaft is now loose.

 

[isamu]

Well guys I've successfully removed the underlying plastic plate from the shifter and disconnected the two wires going to it from the base. Good riddance. I took a quick look at the shifter in the TH8RS Windows config screen and it appears it still works OK as a h-pattern shifter. Don't plan on using it as a sequential at all so its loss is of no consequence to me.

Furthermore I removed the plastic ring hugging the shift lever from the shaft. So now when I shift it should be metal hitting metal 100% with no plastic parts getting in the way.

I also managed to wrap some tin foil around the bottom part of the shaft, covering the three holes depicted in this pic:

The three holes are worn but covering them with tin foil will hopefully provide some added friction between them and the ball bearing from the screw. Not sure how it's gonna feel in the long run but I've already noticed some added tension and stiffness because of the foil. Still gonna need to replace that entire part though.

The shaft is held by a bolt going through it, which is held in place by a C-clip. Just pry that clip off with a flat screwdriver and remove the bolt. The shaft is now loose.

Yeah, that's what it appears to be. Why didn't they just use a threaded screw and accompanying nut to hold it together? That C-clip looks like it's hard to come off. I'll see, but even if I manage to pry it off, how would I place it back on the bolt? Looks like it could break in two or something. I wonder if I can replace the bolt altogether and simply put a screw and nut through the hole?

What do you think?

 

[Carson79]

Sorry I don't always read the thread. I can't remember now I'd need to open it up again. But I think you unscrew the ballpen bolt, unscrew the shifter knob and the shaft part should slide out of the bottom. I remember it being quite easy. Use a pair of pliers to pull the clip out.

I had planned to modify my gates with R clips for added feel but the plastic part under the aluminum gates got in the way. You say you were able to remove yours, I think another metal plate with R clips attached to take its place would give the TH8 the tactile resistance that many find is missing.

Also the idea of adding a second bolt to the other side of the grooved plate might not be a good one. Imo it would put added friction on the groove's and thus ware them down the same way over tightening the bolt would have

 

[isamu]

Sorry I don't always read the thread. I can't remember now I'd need to open it up again. But I think you unscrew the ballpen bolt, unscrew the shifter knob and the shaft part should slide out of the bottom. I remember it being quite easy. Use a pair of pliers to pull the clip out.

I had planned to modify my gates with R clips for added feel but the plastic part under the aluminum gates got in the way. You say you were able to remove yours, I think another metal plate with R clips attached to take its place would give the TH8 the tactile resistance that many find is missing.

Also the idea of adding a second bolt to the other side of the grooved plate might not be a good one. Imo it would put added friction on the groove's and thus ware them down the same way over tightening the bolt would have

Thanks for the replay Carson much appreciated dude. Very interesting post. I am going to attempt to remove the c clips today and try to take some pics. I am composing an email right now to Thrustmaster asking them to arrange to have a new shift lever sent out. If I can get them to send me one, I'm thinking of taking it apart immediately and covering the three round shaft grooves with a couple layers of tin foil. What do you think of this idea Carson/LogiCool/MrBash/itrdc/etc?

Oh and by the way Carson what do you mean by " modify my gates with R clips" ? Can you explain what this means?

 

[Carson79]

What I mean is the plastic part you removed could be replaced with metal plate with an R clip attached in between each gate.

The gear shaft would have to slide/click into 1st 2nd 3rd and so on.
I tried it but only got so far as I didn't want to damage the shifter. But you've managed to take yours apart.

 

[Publicsafety]

Or try a nylon "c clip", smaller and may work well without damage. You could get the shifter plate and "weld" them to the underside... maybe?

 

[isamu]

What I mean is the plastic part you removed could be replaced with metal plate with an R clip attached in between each gate.

The gear shaft would have to slide/click into 1st 2nd 3rd and so on.
I tried it but only got so far as I didn't want to damage the shifter. But you've managed to take yours apart.

I see. Seems do able. And yes, I can 100% confirm that you can remove the plastic plate and keep it out of the equation completely...*IF* you don't give two bits about sequential mode. If you only intend of using H-pattern mode then I say kick that sucker to the curb! Keep us posted on that r-clip idea.

Public safety might be onto something.

 

[Carson79]

If I could weld that would be the plan guys

 

[itrdc5]

If I can get them to send me one, I'm thinking of taking it apart immediately and covering the three round shaft grooves with a couple layers of tin foil. What do you think of this idea Carson/LogiCool/MrBash/itrdc/etc?

Sorry isamu, I'm not sure but I might open mine up and check if the grooves have worn out. Last time I looked, they were fine. Hope that hasn't changed.

Here's a photo of my latest plate. OK, it's the same plate, just look different. Different plates for different cars, well, I like Lancias. *shrug*

 

[LogiForce]

Sorry isamu, I'm not sure but I might open mine up and check if the grooves have worn out. Last time I looked, they were fine. Hope that hasn't changed.

Here's a photo of my latest plate. OK, it's the same plate, just look different. Different plates for different cars, well, I like Lancias. *shrug*

I drive a Lancia Delta, so this is a must have for me. Could you make me one of those... please? If its not too much to ask.

 

[isamu]

Sorry isamu, I'm not sure but I might open mine up and check if the grooves have worn out. Last time I looked, they were fine. Hope that hasn't changed.

Here's a photo of my latest plate. OK, it's the same plate, just look different. Different plates for different cars, well, I like Lancias. *shrug*

A very nice plate my friend

 

[BODHI85]

Can someone tell me what that black wire is inside the TH8rs. The stick shift felt like it was grinding so I opened it up and there was an exposed wire connecting the two halves. I handed it to my dad to look at and he snaps it. What did I just break?

 

[RacerXX]

A very nice plate my friend

Nice color scheme on the cars to the right. I have seen that done to good effect on a Miata.

 

[isamu]

Got it coach

Dear Thrustmaster.....

Hello again and thanks for your swift reply. As per your request, here are pics I've taken of the shifter's bottom shaft showing the three engravings up close. I apologize for not including the pics directly as an attachment to this email, but due to their amount and size, they can't be sent from my email provider. Therefore I am providing links to them that I've uploaded at Imageshack

As you can see, the three engravings on the bottom shaft have worn considerably. Keep in mind I have not overly tightened the tension screw but the they are worn out regardless.

I would also like to point out that I bought the shifter new and I believe this was one of the first batches that you sold. If I may make a humble suggestion, perhaps you can use a shifter shaft made of stronger metal and slightly modify the size of the three engravings to better accommodate the ball bearing being rubbed against them continuously back and forth. I am someone that enjoys using this shifter, and it is a great design, but I've had to deal with the stick lever feeling very loose because of the worn out engravings at the bottom.

Thrustmaster please send me a new shaft at your convenience I'd greatly appreciate it, thanks.

Thank you,

Isamu

Well we'll see what they say....

 

[isamu]

On another note, I took pics of the other shifter knobs I own:

Burl Wood shifter knob, which I've been using with the TH8RS:

And here's my B&M Shifter handle....

I have had this B&M shift handle for over 5 years easily. Bought it for an old Advantage 1 shifter I bought from Aussie Robbo many years back but never got a chance to use it because the handle has a threaded hole that is too big for what appears to be most shafts. Take a look:

That is me showing how small the TH8RS' shaft is compared to the hole in the handle. I would like to know if any of you are familiar with this B&M handle, and whether or not there's a shaft out there that would screw perfectly into it while screwing into bottom part of the TH8's shaft?

If not, what are some solutions you'd suggest? A custom nut or custom made shaft of some sort?

I really really REALLY want to use this shift B&M handle!

 

[LogiForce]

Can someone tell me what that black wire is inside the TH8rs. The stick shift felt like it was grinding so I opened it up and there was an exposed wire connecting the two halves. I handed it to my dad to look at and he snaps it. What did I just break?

It's the wire that goes to a switch in the top plastic. It causes the shifter to go into sequential mode.
The sequential shifter plate depresses this switch when you install the plate. If you look at the other side of that plate you will see the notch that does this.

 

[BODHI85]

It's the wire that goes to a switch in the top plastic. It causes the shifter to go into sequential mode.
The sequential shifter plate depresses this switch when you install the plate. If you look at the other side of that plate you will see the notch that does this.

Thanks. Hopefully, it won't be too hard to fix.